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techtalk:evo:carb02 [2019/06/14 21:01]
ixl2relax [Before Tuning - Collect Your Information]
techtalk:evo:carb02 [2019/08/27 14:49]
hippysmack [Cleaning & Inspecting]
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 {{ :​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​dynojet-pressrelease-knockoffjetkits.pdf |}} {{ :​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​dynojet-pressrelease-knockoffjetkits.pdf |}}
  
-While some people have had satisfactory results with the DJ kits, if you are having trouble getting a good tune on the carb, I would remove all DJ items and restore the carb to Keihin parts including buying another slide if it's been drilled. The stock parts are good quality and will provide excellent operation if the carb is tuned properly.+While some people have had satisfactory results with the DJ kits, if you are having trouble getting a good tune on the carb, remove all DJ items and restore the carb to Keihin parts including buying another slide if it's been drilled. The stock parts are good quality and will provide excellent operation if the carb is tuned properly. ​((the opinion of many on the XLForum))
  
 From the factory, there is a cap over the Idle Mixture Screw. This needs to be removed to make IMS adjustments during tuning. It does not need to be replaced when done, but the cap is available as HD P/N 28015-01 if you would like to replace it when done making changes.((IMS Cap - http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showpost.php?​p=595622&​postcount=9)) From the factory, there is a cap over the Idle Mixture Screw. This needs to be removed to make IMS adjustments during tuning. It does not need to be replaced when done, but the cap is available as HD P/N 28015-01 if you would like to replace it when done making changes.((IMS Cap - http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showpost.php?​p=595622&​postcount=9))
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 To remove the IMS cap, carefully drill a small hole in the center of the cap (barely enough to make a hole). Be extremely careful not to overdrill into the cap because you will damage the screw that is behind the cap. Now, carefully twist in a sheetmetal screw about one thread, then pull on the screw to remove the cap. To remove the IMS cap, carefully drill a small hole in the center of the cap (barely enough to make a hole). Be extremely careful not to overdrill into the cap because you will damage the screw that is behind the cap. Now, carefully twist in a sheetmetal screw about one thread, then pull on the screw to remove the cap.
  
-An aftermarket kit (like E-Z-just) can be purchased with an extended screw head for hand tuning. It comes with the "​packing"​ in case yours has been damaged or is not functioning properly. But, check your local regulations before changing this out to an aftermarket part. You can also find, buy or barter for used parts. ("​Please note: it is a violation of federal law to tamper with or disable any emission or noise control device. That is your PSA for the day"​((XLForum member - chrishajer))).+An aftermarket kit (like E-Z-just) can be purchased with an extended screw head for hand tuning. It comes with the "​packing"​ in case yours has been damaged or is not functioning properly. But, check your local regulations before changing this out to an aftermarket part. You can also find, buy or barter for used parts. ("​Please note: it is a violation of federal law to tamper with or disable any emission or noise control device. That is your PSA for the day"​((XLForum member - chrishajer)) ((a/f screw packing photo by tchuck of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=183642)).
  
 **Checklist Of What You Have** - In order for others to provide quality advice, it is important that you know and can provide quality information about the build of your bike. Here's a list of important information for you to know and provide for TUNING of the CV carburetored EVOs (1986-2006):​ **Checklist Of What You Have** - In order for others to provide quality advice, it is important that you know and can provide quality information about the build of your bike. Here's a list of important information for you to know and provide for TUNING of the CV carburetored EVOs (1986-2006):​
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 1ea - 4mm x 20mm x .70TPI for Top Diaphragm Cover at Throttle Bracket\\ 1ea - 4mm x 20mm x .70TPI for Top Diaphragm Cover at Throttle Bracket\\
 3ea - 4mm x 10mm x .70TPI for Accelerator Pump\\ 3ea - 4mm x 10mm x .70TPI for Accelerator Pump\\
 +Hex Head bolts use 3.0mm hex wrench\\
 +Button Head bolts use 2.5mm hex wrench
 +
  
 ( Also see: [[http://​xlforum.net/​vbportal/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=167074|XLF Thread 1]], [[http://​xlforum.net/​vbportal/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1966443|XLF Thread 2]] & [[http://​xlforum.net/​vbportal/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1792262|XLF Thread 3]] ) ( Also see: [[http://​xlforum.net/​vbportal/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=167074|XLF Thread 1]], [[http://​xlforum.net/​vbportal/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1966443|XLF Thread 2]] & [[http://​xlforum.net/​vbportal/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1792262|XLF Thread 3]] )
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 {{ :​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​cv40-imscap-drillbit.jpg?​200|}} {{ :​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​cv40-imscap-drillbit.jpg?​200|}}
-**IMS Cap** - From the factory, the cavity for the Idle Mixture Screw (IMS) is covered with a small cap. (Note from the service manual: Adjusting mixture setting by procedures other than those specified in the manual may be in violation of local regulations.) The following procedures are not specified in the manual. To remove the cap and gain access to the IMS, use a small drill bit to create a hole in the cap. Use several layers of tape on the drill bit to limit the depth the bit can penetrate the cap. If you pop thru the cap too deep with the bit, you may damage the internal screw head - Be Careful. Once your cap has a hole in it, CAREFULLY thread a self-tapping screw (blunt nose) into the hole JUST ENOUGH to capture the cap & pull it out of the IMS cavity.+**IMS Cap** - From the factory, the cavity for the Idle Mixture Screw (IMS) is covered with a small cap. (Note from the service manual: Adjusting mixture setting by procedures other than those specified in the manual may be in violation of local regulations.) The following procedures are not specified in the manual. To remove the cap and gain access to the IMS, use a small drill bit to create a hole in the cap. Use several layers of tape on the drill bit to limit the depth the bit can penetrate the cap. If you pop thru the cap too deep with the bit, you may damage the internal screw head - Be Careful. Once your cap has a hole in it, CAREFULLY thread a self-tapping screw (blunt nose) into the hole JUST ENOUGH to capture the cap & pull it out of the IMS cavity. ​((photo by cantolina of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=14949))
  
 {{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​cv40-idletransferports.jpg|}} ​    ​{{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​cv40-idletransfer-diagram.jpg|}} {{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​cv40-idletransferports.jpg|}} ​    ​{{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​cv40-idletransfer-diagram.jpg|}}
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-===== Simply ​Rebuilding / Refreshing The CV Carb =====+===== Rebuilding / Refreshing The CV Carb ===== 
 +Exploded view; \\ 
 +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​keihin_cv_carb_and_parts_by_batousaii.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Batousaii of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1367932&​page=3)) \\ 
  
 \\ \\
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 ==== Disassembly ==== ==== Disassembly ====
 +=== Float Bowl ===
  
-  *  +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​keihin_cv_dismantle_1_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​keihin_cv_dismantle_16_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​keihin_cv_dismantle_2_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\
-  * +
  
 +=== Float ===
 +
 +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​removing_keihin_cv_float_bowl_1_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​removing_keihin_cv_float_bowl_6_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​removing_keihin_cv_float_bowl_2_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\
 +
 +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​removing_keihin_cv_float_bowl_3_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​removing_keihin_cv_float_bowl_4_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​removing_keihin_cv_float_bowl_5_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\
 +
 +=== Jets ===
 +
 +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​keihin_cv_dismantle_3_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​keihin_cv_dismantle_5_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\
 +
 +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​keihin_cv_dismantle_8_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​keihin_cv_dismantle_9_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\
 +
 +=== Air / fuel mixture screw ===
 +
 +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​keihin_cv_dismantle_12_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​keihin_cv_dismantle_13_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​keihin_cv_dismantle_14_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\
 +
 +=== Accelerator pump ===
 +
 +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​replacing_keihin_cv_accell_pump_diaphragm_1_by_batousaii.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Batousaii of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1367932&​page=3)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​replacing_keihin_cv_accell_pump_diaphragm_2_by_batousaii.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Batousaii of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1367932&​page=3)) \\
 ==== Cleaning & Inspecting ==== ==== Cleaning & Inspecting ====
 +
   * Make sure to take everything apart, jets, needle, accel pump, all rubber components especially.   * Make sure to take everything apart, jets, needle, accel pump, all rubber components especially.
   * Examine all parts for excessive wear, damage, distortion, etc.   * Examine all parts for excessive wear, damage, distortion, etc.
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      * A 20 minute soak in a gallon of Gunk (or other) Carburetor Cleaner that has a basket inside for small parts and lowers in the can with a handle, rinse, air dry, use.      * A 20 minute soak in a gallon of Gunk (or other) Carburetor Cleaner that has a basket inside for small parts and lowers in the can with a handle, rinse, air dry, use.
      * An aerosol spray carb cleaner will also work but may not loosen all of the build up in the jets or orifices in the carb body if they'​re not directly sprayed through. ​      * An aerosol spray carb cleaner will also work but may not loosen all of the build up in the jets or orifices in the carb body if they'​re not directly sprayed through. ​
-  * Blow out all holes, jets and orifices thoroughly with forced air after cleaning. + 
-  ​+A gallon of Gunk or equivalent is especially useful for soaking stuck gaskets and dried varnish. \\ 
 +A toothbrush dipped in carb cleaner can also be used to scrub gasket and outside surfaces to remove the grunge. \\  
 +Depending on how old or how '​stuck'​ the parts are, soaking for a couple hours or even days may help to separate the old gasket in between. \\ 
 +Make sure to remove any rubber or plastic parts that will be reused before soaking. \\ 
 +Spray all soaked surfaces down with water afterwards to remove and de-energize the cleaning solution. \\ 
 +Also check the label for safety precautions. ​Blow out all holes, jets and orifices thoroughly with forced air after cleaning. ​\\ 
 + Carburetor Cleaner ((photo by Hippysmack)) ​ || 
 +|{{techtalk:​ref:​genmsr:​parts_cleaner_1_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|{{techtalk:​ref:​genmsr:​parts_cleaner_2_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}}| 
 + 
 +=== Jets === 
 +Generally, the jets can be blown out with compressed air unless they have been sitting for a few years getting gunked up. \\ 
 +If need be, you can run a welding tip cleaner into the holes to clear out varnish / debris that may be stuck there. \\ 
 +**Caution**:​ Only use a rod that is smaller than the holes being rodded and go very easy when inserting to keep from widening the jets. \\ 
 +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​keihin_cv_dismantle_4_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​keihin_cv_dismantle_6_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​keihin_cv_dismantle_7_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\ 
 + 
 +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​keihin_cv_dismantle_10_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​keihin_cv_dismantle_11_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​keihin_cv_dismantle_15_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\  
 +  
 +=== Accelerator pump === 
 +Check the diaphragm for wear, cracks and tears (especially if left to sit in a fuel filled carburetor for extended periods, it will eventually deteriorate). ((https://​cv-performance.com/​harley-cv-carburetor-tuning-issues/​)) \\ 
 +Check that fuel sprays from the accelerator pump nozzle when rolling on the throttle (test with engine off). \\ 
 + 
 +Also moisture can get inside the alloy housing in the pump body and bubble up, causing problems reassembling the pump. ((Loony of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1616803&​page=2)) \\ 
 +The tinniest bit of moisture / debris inside could cause the diaphragm not to fit right and cause a leak. \\ 
 +Make sure to clean both the housing and cover thoroughly. \\ 
 +  
 +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​replacing_keihin_cv_accell_pump_diaphragm_7_by_batousaii.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Batousaii of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1367932&​page=3)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​replacing_keihin_cv_accell_pump_diaphragm_3_by_batousaii.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Batousaii of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1367932&​page=3)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​04_accelerator_pump_by_loony.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Loony of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1616803&​page=2)) \\  
 + 
 +=== Vacuum slide === 
 +See also [[techtalk:​evo:​carb02f|To Drill or Not to Drill the Keihin CV Carb Vacuum Slide Hole]] \\ 
 + 
 +On the underside of the slide there is an offset hole used to displace vacuum/air as the slide moves up and down. ((https://​cv-performance.com/​harley-cv-carburetor-tuning-issues/​)) \\ 
 +The size of this hole can adversely effect the position and rate of travel of the slide. \\ 
 +For several years, many articles and companies promoted the practice of drilling the slide using a 1/8" drill bit. \\ 
 +This was later found to harm performance and cause erratic behavior as the slide attempted to bounce and search for correct positioning. \\ 
 +Unfortunately those articles with the 1/8" recommendations are still widely published or found online. \\ 
 +Unsuspecting Harley owners perform that modification damaging the vacuum slide. The maximum recommended hole size for the slide port should never exceed 7/64". \\ 
 +You can use a 1/8" drill bit as a gauge to check the vacuum port hole size. \\ 
 +If your slide has already been drilled at or larger than 1/8" then complete replacement of the slide is recommended. \\ 
 + 
 +Check the hole size to verify it's not too big with the back side of a 7/64" drill bit. \\ If it won't fit or does '​just'​ fit, you're OK. \\ 
 +If you can wiggle it sideways a bit, the hole is too big. You can use an index drill bit kit to rod the hole with different size bits to be sure of the size. \\ 
 + 
 +If the slide diaphragm becomes pinched or is unable to seal, the slide will not function correctly. \\ 
 +Slide diaphragms for the Harley CV carb slide are not sold separately, so the only fix is to replace the assembly. (( If the slide diaphragm becomes pinched or is unable to seal, the slide will not function correctly. Slide diaphragms for the Harley CV carb slide are not sold separately, so the only fix is to replace the Harley vacuum slide. )) \\ 
 + 
 +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​keihin_cv_vacuum_slide_comparison_by_matt_black_annotated.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Matt Black of the XLFORUM, annotated by Hippysmack http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=2068828&​page=6)) \\ 
 ==== Replacement Parts ==== ==== Replacement Parts ====
  
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   * Some Misc Parts/Seals   * Some Misc Parts/Seals
  
 +It's best to decide what all you need and any upgrades you want to do to the carb before ordering parts. \\
 +That way you don't have downtime waiting for them to arrive. \\
 +It's also a good idea to buy extra parts that may get damaged or lost during future removals for setting the float and other adjustments. \\
 +These extra items will come in handy later (float bowl gaskets, extra jets, one up and down size jets for tuning, A/F mixture screw packing and etc.) \\
 +It wouldn'​t hurt to have an extra A/F mixture screw also due to it being easy to drop and damage the tip. \\
 +
 +See also the list of [[techtalk:​ref:​carb07|Keihin Carb Upgrades - Butterfly and CV Types]] in the REF section of the Sportsterpedia. \\
  
 +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​keihin_cv_parts_by_matt_black.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Matt Black of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=2068828&​page=6)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​keihin_cv_jets_by_matt_black.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Matt Black of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=2068828&​page=6)) \\
 ==== Assembly ==== ==== Assembly ====
   * Do not lubricate the enrichment cable (misnamed Choke) on CV Carburetors - tension is needed. ((1998 FSM Pg 1-1))   * Do not lubricate the enrichment cable (misnamed Choke) on CV Carburetors - tension is needed. ((1998 FSM Pg 1-1))
-  * + 
 +=== Accelerator pump === 
 + 
 +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​replacing_keihin_cv_accell_pump_diaphragm_4_by_batousaii.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Batousaii of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1367932&​page=4)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​replacing_keihin_cv_accell_pump_diaphragm_5_by_batousaii.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Batousaii of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1367932&​page=4)) \\
  
 \\ \\
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 | 2004-2006 - 883 | 27777-04 | 27260-00 | 27577-92 | ::: | | 2004-2006 - 883 | 27777-04 | 27260-00 | 27577-92 | ::: |
 | 2004-2006 - 1200 | 27256-01 | 27260-00 | 27577-92 | ::: | | 2004-2006 - 1200 | 27256-01 | 27260-00 | 27577-92 | ::: |
-{{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​cv40-floatbowl-0304-ap.jpg?​600|}} ((Discussion & pics from Robistro on the XLForum at http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=2070191))+{{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​cv40-floatbowl-0304-ap.jpg?​600|}} ((Discussion & pics from Robistro on the XLForum at http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=2070191)) ​\\  
 + 
 +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​xl1200s_keihin_cv_float_bowl_-_49_state_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\ 
 + 
 +There are 3 types checks for the accel pump jets: ball, needle and calibrated orifice-(no check at all). ((buster of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=2024981)) \\ 
 +Older units had change-able jets to calibrate the squirt, newer ones are fixed and can only adjust the timing of the squirt. \\
  
 {{techtalk:​evo:​carb:​cv40-accelpump-ckvalve.jpg |Annotated by IXL2Relax at the XLForum}} {{techtalk:​evo:​carb:​cv40-accelpump-ckvalve.jpg |Annotated by IXL2Relax at the XLForum}}
 +
 +\\
 +
 +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​91_keihin_cv_accelerator_pump_jet_by_blackbikedave.jpg?​direct&​400|}} ((photos by BlackBikeDave,​ cropped-annotated by Hippysmack http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=2024981)) \\
 +
 +