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techtalk:evo:elec01 [2019/01/30 16:11] ixl2relax [Battery Cables - The Place to Start] |
techtalk:evo:elec01 [2019/02/26 04:07] ixl2relax [Battery Cables - The Place to Start] |
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| A huge number of issues are caused by battery cable deterioration and/or loose connectors. The negative cable to the frame is especially critical. All Sportster models occasionally have trouble with the battery cables but it seems to be even more prevalent on the rubber-mounted engine models from 2004-up (since the motor moves more in relation to the frame). | A huge number of issues are caused by battery cable deterioration and/or loose connectors. The negative cable to the frame is especially critical. All Sportster models occasionally have trouble with the battery cables but it seems to be even more prevalent on the rubber-mounted engine models from 2004-up (since the motor moves more in relation to the frame). | ||
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| + | (If you're having a No Start issue, after doing everyting mentioned in this section, have a look at the REF section on [[techtalk:ref:genmsr01|Troubleshooting a No Start Problem]].) | ||
| The large Positive Battery Cable goes direct to the Starter Solenoid. There is another wire from the Battery (or from the Starter Solenoid) that feeds the Main Circuit Breaker (or Maxi-Fuse) for the system electrical & electronic devices. | The large Positive Battery Cable goes direct to the Starter Solenoid. There is another wire from the Battery (or from the Starter Solenoid) that feeds the Main Circuit Breaker (or Maxi-Fuse) for the system electrical & electronic devices. | ||
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| If both ends are secure in their connectors, then verify that the bolts at each end of each cable are without corrosion and are firmly tight. Wrench tight. | If both ends are secure in their connectors, then verify that the bolts at each end of each cable are without corrosion and are firmly tight. Wrench tight. | ||
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| - | {{:techtalk:evo:elec:BatteryPost-Melted-Arcing-TheDoctor71.jpg?600|}}((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2071578 - Pic from The Doctor71 - Annotated by IXL2Relax)) {{:techtalk:evo:elec:batterypost-ziptie-sportsterpaul.jpg?280|}}((Pic from SportsterPaul))\\ | ||
| Then use your voltmeter (multimeter, dvm, etc.) to measure the incoming voltage (from the battery) at the key switch. Then measure the outgoing voltage from each of the keyswitch positions. If you still have no power, continue checking downstream, thru the fuses, until you find the break in the voltage circuit. | Then use your voltmeter (multimeter, dvm, etc.) to measure the incoming voltage (from the battery) at the key switch. Then measure the outgoing voltage from each of the keyswitch positions. If you still have no power, continue checking downstream, thru the fuses, until you find the break in the voltage circuit. | ||
| - | You can physically restrain the connectors with a zip tie around the battery post. With proper placement, even the rubber boots can be put back in place. | + | {{:techtalk:evo:elec:BatteryPost-Melted-Arcing-TheDoctor71.jpg?600|}}((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2071578 - Pic from The Doctor71 - Annotated by IXL2Relax)) {{:techtalk:evo:elec:batterypost-ziptie-sportsterpaul.jpg?280|}}((Pic from SportsterPaul))\\ |
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| + | As you can see in the pictures above, if the connections are not tight even the posts can melt due to high current arcing. In addition to tightening the bolts, you can physically restrain the connectors with a zip tie around the battery post. With proper placement, even the rubber boots can be put back in place. | ||
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