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--- techtalk:evo:elec01 [2022/05/30 20:02]
ixl2relax [Battery Voltage Readings]
+++ techtalk:evo:elec01 [2024/01/02 22:42] (current)
hippysmack
@@ Line 3: / Line 3: @@
 ====== ELECTRICAL BASICS ======
+**Power Distribution** is discussed in the <font 18px>[[techtalk:evo:elec02|Electrical Charging Section]]</font>.
 The Reference Section also has related information:
@@ Line 60: / Line 62: @@
   * From Keyswitch to Starter Relay
   * Output of Starter Relay to Starter Solenoid
-  * Output of Voltage Regulator to Main Circuit Breaker ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2022873))
+  * Output of Voltage Regulator to Main Circuit Breaker ((https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-electrical/sportster-motorcycle-electrical-and-ignition/189707-stator-regulator-wire-gauge?t=2022873))
@@ Line 67: / Line 69: @@
   * Main 50a CB to Keyswitch
-In a [[http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1506137|thread by morvenhouse on the XLForum]], he included this picture of the difference between his 6-AWG stock battery cable and the 3-AWG battery cable he made:
+In a [[https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/rubber-mount-sportster-motorcycle-talk-2004-2006/138767-an-electric-starter-guide?t=1506137|thread by morvenhouse on the XLForum]], he included this picture of the difference between his 6-AWG stock battery cable and the 3-AWG battery cable he made:
-{{:techtalk:evo:elec:batterycable-3awg-morvenhouse.jpg|}}((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1506137 - Pic from morvenhouse - Annotated by IXL2Relax))
+{{:techtalk:evo:elec:batterycable-3awg-morvenhouse.jpg|}}((https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/rubber-mount-sportster-motorcycle-talk-2004-2006/138767-an-electric-starter-guide?t=1506137 - Pic from morvenhouse - Annotated by IXL2Relax))
 \\
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 **[[https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html#supplies|Here is a link]]** to a great listing of connector and connection options. That web page discusses switches, wiring, connectors and tools.
-Contributed by Oldrump1 from the XLForum.net ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1979596))
+Contributed by Oldrump1 from the XLForum.net ((https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-electrical/sportster-motorcycle-lighting/184283-diy-wiring?threadid=1979596))
 **Deutsch Connectors**
@@ Line 98: / Line 100: @@
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 \\
-Here's an [[http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=727971|XLForum Thread]] that shows **how to disassemble various connectors**.
+Here's an [[https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-electrical/sportster-motorcycle-electrical-and-ignition/90139-connector-removal-how-to?t=727971|XLForum Thread]] that shows **how to disassemble various connectors**.
 For Multi-Lock Connectors, here's an animation of Removing the Wire From the Connector:\\
@@ Line 122: / Line 124: @@
 The large Negative Battery Cable on the early models went to rear motor mount. Later, it was moved to the backside of the Primary cavity on the crankcase near the Starter Motor.
-"I was checking the voltage at the battery against the voltage at the starter, at first it was the same. I moved the bike to get to the other side and double checked the voltage and it dropped significantly. I nudge the battery once and watched the voltage go to zero! I removed the positive lead and it appeared fine on the outside. One good pull on both ends and the end to the starter and about 2" of copper strands slid out from the insulating jacketing", said TimC of the XLForum.((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1513037))
+"I was checking the voltage at the battery against the voltage at the starter, at first it was the same. I moved the bike to get to the other side and double checked the voltage and it dropped significantly. I nudge the battery once and watched the voltage go to zero! I removed the positive lead and it appeared fine on the outside. One good pull on both ends and the end to the starter and about 2" of copper strands slid out from the insulating jacketing", said TimC of the XLForum.((https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/frame-mount-evo-sportster-talk-1986-2003-models/139448-1200s-check-engine-sputter-backfire?t=1513037))
 **To check the battery cables** - PULL HARD on both ends of both the positive and the negative cables where they mount to the battery and to the engine. There should be no looseness to the cable at the connector junction. Corrosion in the connectors and the wire itself can be hidden from your casual examination yet will still cause severe loss in current capability. Therefore, PULL HARD to be sure they are solid.
@@ Line 130: / Line 132: @@
 Then use your voltmeter (multimeter, dvm, etc.) to measure the incoming voltage (from the battery) at the key switch. Then measure the outgoing voltage from each of the keyswitch positions. If you still have no power, continue checking downstream, thru the fuses, until you find the break in the voltage circuit.
-{{:techtalk:evo:elec:BatteryPost-Melted-Arcing-TheDoctor71.jpg?600|}}((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2071578 - Pic from The Doctor71 - Annotated by IXL2Relax)) {{:techtalk:evo:elec:batterypost-ziptie-sportsterpaul.jpg?280|}}((Pic from SportsterPaul))\\
+{{:techtalk:evo:elec:BatteryPost-Melted-Arcing-TheDoctor71.jpg?600|}}((https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-electrical/sportster-motorcycle-electrical-and-ignition/195261-why-tight-battery-cables-are-important?t=2071578 - Pic from The Doctor71 - Annotated by IXL2Relax)) {{:techtalk:evo:elec:batterypost-ziptie-sportsterpaul.jpg?280|}}((Pic from SportsterPaul))\\
-As you can see in the pictures above, if the connections are not tight even the posts can melt due to high current arcing. In addition to tightening the bolts, you can physically restrain the connectors with a zip tie around the battery post. With proper placement, even the rubber boots can be put back in place.
+As you can see in the pictures above, if the connections are not tight even the posts can melt due to high current arcing. The operational vibrations often loosen bolts of all sorts on the bike, including the battery cables. In addition to tightening the bolts, you can physically restrain the connectors with a zip tie around the battery post. With proper placement, even the rubber boots can be put back in place.
 \\
@@ Line 150: / Line 152: @@
 ===== Battery Voltage Readings =====
-From the XLForum.net ((sportsterdoc of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1784651 with slight modifications))
+From the XLForum.net ((from sportsterdoc of the XLFOUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-electrical/sportster-motorcycle-electrical-and-ignition/166144-voltage-readings-why-we-need-them?t=1784651 with slight modifications))
 Whenever there is a problem that may even remotely be electrical, it is important to know the quality of power with which you are operating. This is why you should have a volt-ohm meter (DVM/Multimeter) and take voltage readings, as described below, as part of your initial diagnostics.
@@ Line 214: / Line 216: @@
 There could be as many as a dozen points on the frame used for grounding other devices. The front turn signals (on the handlebars) were grounded thru a connecting strap between the fork riser bolts & the triple tree.
-{{:techtalk:evo:elec:86-93-handlebarground.jpg?500|}}{{:techtalk:evo:elec:86-93-devicegrounds.jpg?250|}}((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2073777 - Pics from John Harper - Annotated by IXL2Relax))
+{{:techtalk:evo:elec:86-93-handlebarground.jpg?500|}}{{:techtalk:evo:elec:86-93-devicegrounds.jpg?250|}}((https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/frame-mount-evo-sportster-talk-1986-2003-models/197175-1991-frame-engine-original-ground-locations?t=2073777 - Pics from John Harper - Annotated by IXL2Relax))
 **Beginning in 1994**, the wiring harness itself began to carry ground wires to various components. The wiring harness by then consisted of many separate power wires to multiple locations, with a number of circuit breakers protecting the various circuits from overload.
@@ Line 220: / Line 222: @@
 **The battery ground cable and the common wiring harness ground wires connect to the engine**. Up through 2003, the ground wires connected onto the upper left (or right) rear engine mounting bolt. After the bolt & nut secured the engine to the frame, the battery & harness cables are placed onto the extended bolt and a lock nut is then used on the same bolt - this secures the cables to the engine & frame. There were still devices that grounded thru the frame (back to the battery), such as the horn, the oil pressure indicator switch and the neutral indicator switch.
-{{:techtalk:evo:elec:harnessgrounds-86-03-decman.jpg?600|}}((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1944256 - Pic from decman - Annotated by IXL2Relax))\\
+{{:techtalk:evo:elec:harnessgrounds-86-03-decman.jpg?600|}}((https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-electrical/sportster-motorcycle-electrical-and-ignition/180689-looking-for-a-pic?t=1944256 - Pic from decman - Annotated by IXL2Relax))\\
 **Beginning in 2004**, the Rubbermount models have the wiring harness grounds collected to a single point on the engine called the **Powertrain Ground Point**. Located near the starter motor, this PGP is a dual-threaded stud mounted horizontally to the engine case with the ground wires from the wiring harness attached by a nut.
@@ Line 232: / Line 234: @@
 A recurring problem has been the **battery ground cable** from the negative battery terminal to the engine/frame ground point. This cable often fails with internally broken wire strands or excessive corrosion. This condition is aggravated by storing the bike outdoors.
-More reading [[http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=463372|HERE.]]
+Here is a link to a very long [[https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-electrical/sportster-motorcycle-electrical-and-ignition/176231-nightster-electrical-problems-not-sure-where-to-go-from-here?t=1891463|XLForum Thread]] about corrosion in the threads of the Engine Ground bolt (might be used for Powertrain Ground Point or Battery Negative cable depending on year). That corrosion degraded the voltage to the engine significantly. Also, more reading [[https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-electrical/sportster-motorcycle-electrical-and-ignition/69147-starter-hesitation-read-this-first?t=463372|HERE]] regarding battery cables.
 -later has two main ground points - Engine Case Battery Ground & Power Train Ground (AKA GND1)\\
 (2004-2007 may have these reversed with battery ground on primary cover & harness ground on case stud)\\
-{{techtalk:evo:elec:04-later-groundpoints.jpg?600|}}((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1891463 - Pic from Chopsticks - Annotated by IXL2Relax))\\
+{{techtalk:evo:elec:04-later-groundpoints.jpg?600|}}((https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-electrical/sportster-motorcycle-electrical-and-ignition/176231-nightster-electrical-problems-not-sure-where-to-go-from-here?t=1891463 - Pic from Chopsticks - Annotated by IXL2Relax))\\
-Plus, there is the Engine-to-Frame Grounding Strap under the rear of the engine\\
+There is an Engine-to-Frame Grounding Strap under the rear of the engine\\
-{{techtalk:evo:elec:04-rear-grounding-strap.jpg?600|}}((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1891463 - Pic from Chopsticks - Annotated by IXL2Relax))
+{{techtalk:evo:elec:04-rear-grounding-strap.jpg?600|}}((https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-electrical/sportster-motorcycle-electrical-and-ignition/176231-nightster-electrical-problems-not-sure-where-to-go-from-here?t=1891463 - Pic from Chopsticks - Annotated by IXL2Relax))
 ===== Testing for Proper Grounds =====
-It's possible to use a volt/ohm meter, or Digital Volt Meter (DVM), to check the resistance from any ground point on the bike back to the negative battery terminal. Such resistance checks can discover problems. To do this type of check, the meter is set on a low resistance scale (less than 100ohms if possible). The negative battery cable should be removed from the battery (to disable power on the bike). One lead of the meter is placed on the battery end of the battery cable (now disconnected from the battery) while the other end is placed on the ground point being checked. If properly connected, the meter should read a very low resistenace, nearly ZERO (usually less than one ohm).
+It's possible to use a volt/ohm meter, or Digital Volt Meter (DVM), to check the resistance from any ground point on the bike back to the negative battery terminal. Such resistance checks can discover problems. To do this type of check, the meter is set on a low resistance scale (less than 100ohms if possible).
-A quick and dirty test (although not able to detect borderline issues) can be performed with a __powered__ test light connected between the negative battery cable and the ground point under examination. These test lights sometimes look like pens or screwdrivers with a pointed probe and a small internal battery. If the light illuminates, there is a circuit connection between the two points being tested. This is similar to using the multimeter continuity check. The meter also sends power through the circuit to see if the circuit is completed.
+**BE SURE TO ZERO THE METER** - When using the ohms scale on any meter, before taking measurements be sure to Zero The Meter. This means, put both meter probes together & see what the reading indicates. Often, the meter will read a small bit of resistance. When making ground checks, this 'small bit of resistance' must be accounted for in your readings. If the probes together show 0.25 ohms of resistance and you check a ground point as 0.60 ohms, you need to subtract the probe resistance from the reading -- 0.60 minus 0.25 equals a true reading of 0.35 ohms at the ground point being checked.
+The negative battery cable should be removed from the battery (to disable power on the bike). One lead of the meter is placed on the battery end of the negative cable (now disconnected from the battery) while the other end is placed on the ground point being checked. If properly connected, the meter should read a very low resistenace, nearly ZERO (usually less than one ohm).
+Using a test light - A quick and dirty test (although not able to detect borderline issues) can be performed with a __powered__ test light connected between the negative battery cable and the ground point under examination. These test lights sometimes look like pens or screwdrivers with a pointed probe and a small internal battery. If the light illuminates, there is a circuit connection between the two points being tested. This is similar to using the multimeter continuity check. The meter also sends power through the circuit to see if the circuit is completed.
 \\
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 First, set your meter to read DC voltage where 12 volts is easily measured (maybe the 20v scale). Place the red lead from the meter on the positive battery terminal. In fact, you should find a way to clamp it on that terminal (maybe using a plastic spring clamp). Be very careful not to short the positive terminal to any part of the bike.
-Now measure a **REFERENCE VOLTAGE**. Place the black lead on the negative battery terminal to take an initial voltage reading of the battery itself. This voltage should be close to 12.8 DC volts. Whatever your voltage reading, directly on the battery, will be called the REFERENCE VOLTAGE.
+Now measure a **REFERENCE VOLTAGE**. Place the black lead on the negative battery terminal to take an initial voltage reading of the battery itself. This voltage should be close to 12.8 DC volts. Whatever your voltage reading, directly on the battery, will be called the **REFERENCE VOLTAGE**.
-When checking the voltage between the positive terminal of the battery and ANY GROUND POINT on the bike, you should have a voltage reading very close to the Reference Voltage (like 12.8v above). Every single ground point on the entire bike should measure within .3v of this reading.
+When checking the voltage between the positive terminal of the battery and ANY GROUND POINT on the bike, you should have a voltage reading very close to the Reference Voltage (like 12.8v above). Every single ground point on the entire bike should measure within .3v of this reading (~2%).
 So, if you take the black lead to the other end of the negative battery cable, on the powertrain ground or engine, it should measure near the Reference Voltage. If you take the black lead to the ground pin on the headlight connector, it should measure near the Reference Voltage. If you take the black lead to the ground pin in the taillight connector, it should measure near the Reference Voltage. If you take the black lead to the cylinder heads (next to the spark plugs), the meter should read near the Reference Voltage.
@@ Line 260: / Line 267: @@
 IN EVERY CASE, the red lead is still on the positive battery terminal and the ground point you are testing should have a good connection back to the negative battery terminal through the ground connections of the wiring harness, the powertrain ground, the frame and the battery engine case ground point. If ANY GROUND POINT does not measure within .3v of the Reference Voltage, there is something loose, frayed, corroded or disconnected which causes the voltage loss. ((Contributed by IXL2Relax of the XLFORUM.net))
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 ====== P&A Battery Connector (2004-later) ======

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