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techtalk:evo:engctl01 [2020/02/11 21:30]
ixl2relax [Aftermarket Ignitions]
techtalk:evo:engctl01 [2020/09/16 14:15] (current)
ixl2relax [IGNITION TIMING - All Models 1986 Thru 2003]
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 __The 1998-2003 Non-Sport model__ used an integrated ICM on the Sensor Plate (which was still located in the '​nosecone'​ behind the round cover) and was still a Dual-Fire Spark System. __The 1998-2003 Non-Sport model__ used an integrated ICM on the Sensor Plate (which was still located in the '​nosecone'​ behind the round cover) and was still a Dual-Fire Spark System.
  
-These OEM modules had a high failure rate, apparently due to the high heat in their mounting location. The MoCo stopped providing replacement units as soon as they were allowed. The only current choice for replacement is aftermarket versions (such as the Ultima brand discussed [[techtalk:​ref:​engctl01#​ultima_-_nosecone_ignition|HERE]]).+These OEM modules had a high failure rate, apparently due to the high heat in their mounting location. The MoCo stopped providing replacement units as soon as they were allowed. The only current choice for replacement is aftermarket versions (such as the Ultima brand discussed [[techtalk:​ref:​engctl01#​ultima_-_nosecone_ignition|HERE]] ​or the equivalent from another brand).
  
 The ICM may fail with a number of different symptons, with some randomness. The bike may refuse to fire even though the starter will turn the engine over. Some riders report that flicking the RUN/STOP switch (which sends power to the ICM and the coil) several times will sometimes allow the bike to fire up. The ICM may also fail due to heat even though it fired up cold. In this case, once the engine cools down, the ICM may allow the engine to fire up again. This can be extremely frustrating as the bike will randomly stop while riding. Various other, less common, symptoms may occur from a failing nosecone ignition module (misfiring, backfiring, etc.). The ICM may fail with a number of different symptons, with some randomness. The bike may refuse to fire even though the starter will turn the engine over. Some riders report that flicking the RUN/STOP switch (which sends power to the ICM and the coil) several times will sometimes allow the bike to fire up. The ICM may also fail due to heat even though it fired up cold. In this case, once the engine cools down, the ICM may allow the engine to fire up again. This can be extremely frustrating as the bike will randomly stop while riding. Various other, less common, symptoms may occur from a failing nosecone ignition module (misfiring, backfiring, etc.).
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 \\ \\
  
-{{:​techtalk:​evo:​engctl:​ignitionsystem-dual-single.jpg?450|}}     ​{{:​techtalk:​evo:​engctl:​camsensorplate-icm-98-03-a.jpg?​450|}}+{{:​techtalk:​evo:​engctl:​ignitionsystem-81-97.jpg?400|}}\\ {{:​techtalk:​evo:​engctl:​ignitionsystem-98-03-nots.jpg?​400|}}\\ {{:​techtalk:​evo:​engctl:​ignitionsystem-98-03-smodel.jpg?​400|}} | {{:​techtalk:​evo:​engctl:​ignitionsystem-04-later.jpg?​400|}}\\ ​{{:​techtalk:​evo:​engctl:​camsensorplate-icm-98-03-a.jpg?​400|}} |
 \\ \\
  
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 Turn the keyswitch fully on - Flip the Run/Stop switch to RUN. Turn the keyswitch fully on - Flip the Run/Stop switch to RUN.
  
-__Briefly__ ground the coil by touching your ground wire to the coil electrical post where the BLUE & PINK Wires were previously connected. This will charge the coil and it should fire a spark on both plugs when you remove the wire from the coil.+__Briefly__ ground the coil by touching your ground wire to the coil electrical post where the BLUE & PINK Wires were previously connected. This will charge the coil and it should fire a blue spark on both plugs when you remove the wire from the coil. A blue spark indicates a strong power level. A yellow spark indicates low power.
  
 This will test the coil, spark plug wires & spark plugs to verify a spark is able to be produced. Power down and put everything back where it belongs. This will test the coil, spark plug wires & spark plugs to verify a spark is able to be produced. Power down and put everything back where it belongs.
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 >> NOTE >> VERIFY YOUR CONNECTIONS BY COLOR - TAKE CARE NOT TO SHORT ANY OTHER PINS\\ >> NOTE >> VERIFY YOUR CONNECTIONS BY COLOR - TAKE CARE NOT TO SHORT ANY OTHER PINS\\
-Use a short piece of wire to __briefly__ short Pin#4 (BLACK) to Pin#1 (PINK) on Cable Connector 10A - By briefly shorting these pins, you will charge the coil and it should fire a spark on both plugs when you remove the wire from those pins.+Use a short piece of wire to __briefly__ short Pin#4 (BLACK) to Pin#1 (PINK) on Cable Connector 10A - By briefly shorting these pins, you will charge the coil and it should fire a blue spark on both plugs when you remove the wire from those pins. A blue spark indicates a strong power level. A yellow spark indicates low power.
  
 This not only tests the coils, but all the wiring from the 10A/B connector to the Spark Plugs. Power down and put everything back where it belongs. This not only tests the coils, but all the wiring from the 10A/B connector to the Spark Plugs. Power down and put everything back where it belongs.
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 >> NOTE >> VERIFY YOUR CONNECTIONS BY COLOR - TAKE CARE NOT TO SHORT ANY OTHER PINS\\ >> NOTE >> VERIFY YOUR CONNECTIONS BY COLOR - TAKE CARE NOT TO SHORT ANY OTHER PINS\\
-Use a short piece of wire to __briefly__ short Pin#7 (BLACK) to Pin#4 (PINK) on Cable Connector 10A - By briefly shorting these pins, you will charge the coil and it should fire a spark on both plugs when you remove the wire from those pins.+Use a short piece of wire to __briefly__ short Pin#7 (BLACK) to Pin#4 (PINK) on Cable Connector 10A - By briefly shorting these pins, you will charge the coil and it should fire a blue spark on both plugs when you remove the wire from those pins. A blue spark indicates a strong power level. A yellow spark indicates low power.
  
 This not only tests the coils, but all the wiring from the 10A/B connector to the Spark Plugs. Power down and put everything back where it belongs. This not only tests the coils, but all the wiring from the 10A/B connector to the Spark Plugs. Power down and put everything back where it belongs.
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 Turn the keyswitch fully on - Flip the Run/Stop switch to RUN. Turn the keyswitch fully on - Flip the Run/Stop switch to RUN.
  
-Now, __very briefly__, touch the ground wire to socket Pin#4 of Cable Connector 10B - By briefly touching that pin, you will charge the coil and it should fire a spark on both plugs when you remove the wire from Pin#4.+Now, __very briefly__, touch the ground wire to socket Pin#4 of Cable Connector 10B - By briefly touching that pin, you will charge the coil and it should fire a blue spark on both plugs when you remove the wire from Pin#4. A blue spark indicates a strong power level. A yellow spark indicates low power.
  
 This not only tests the coils, but all the wiring from the 10A/B connector to the Spark Plugs. Power down and put everything back where it belongs. This not only tests the coils, but all the wiring from the 10A/B connector to the Spark Plugs. Power down and put everything back where it belongs.
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 Turn the keyswitch fully on - Flip the Run/Stop switch to RUN. Turn the keyswitch fully on - Flip the Run/Stop switch to RUN.
  
-__Very briefly__, touch the ground wire to Pin#6 of Cable Connector 10B (the connector on the cable, not on the ICM itself) - By briefly touching that pin, you will charge the coil for the FRONT plugs and it should fire the front cylinder spark plugs when you remove the wire from Pin#6.\\+__Very briefly__, touch the ground wire to Pin#6 of Cable Connector 10B (the connector on the cable, not on the ICM itself) - By briefly touching that pin, you will charge the coil for the FRONT plugs and it should fire the front cylinder spark plugs when you remove the wire from Pin#6. A blue spark indicates a strong power level. A yellow spark indicates low power.\\
 -or-\\ -or-\\
-__Very briefly__, touch the ground wire to Pin#7 of Cable Connector 10B (the connector on the cable, not on the ICM itself) - By briefly touching that pin, you will charge the coil for the FRONT plugs and it should fire the front cylinder spark plugs when you remove the wire from Pin#7.+__Very briefly__, touch the ground wire to Pin#7 of Cable Connector 10B (the connector on the cable, not on the ICM itself) - By briefly touching that pin, you will charge the coil for the FRONT plugs and it should fire the front cylinder spark plugs when you remove the wire from Pin#7. A blue spark indicates a strong power level. A yellow spark indicates low power.
  
 This not only tests the coils, but all the wiring from ICM to the Spark Plugs. Power down and put everything back where it belongs. This not only tests the coils, but all the wiring from ICM to the Spark Plugs. Power down and put everything back where it belongs.
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 Turn the keyswitch fully on - Flip the Run/Stop switch to RUN. Turn the keyswitch fully on - Flip the Run/Stop switch to RUN.
  
-Now, __very briefly__, touch the grounded jumper wire to Pin#6 of Cable Connector 10B (the connector on the cable, not on the ICM itself) - By briefly touching that pin, you will charge the coil for the FRONT sparkplug and it should fire a spark when you remove the jumper wire from Pin#6.+Now, __very briefly__, touch the grounded jumper wire to Pin#6 of Cable Connector 10B (the connector on the cable, not on the ICM itself) - By briefly touching that pin, you will charge the coil for the FRONT sparkplug and it should fire a spark on the spare plug when you remove the jumper wire from Pin#6. A blue spark indicates a strong power level. A yellow spark indicates low power.
  
-Remove the front spark plug cable. With the spare spark plug grounded to the fins, connect your rear spark plug cable to the spare plug.+Remove the front spark plug cable from the spare plug. Connect ​the rear spark plug cable to the spare plug and be sure spare plug is grounded to the fins.
  
-Now __briefly__ touch the grounded jumper wire to Pin#7 of Cable Connector 10B - This will energize the coil for the REAR plug and when the jumper wire is removed that coil should fire the rear spark plug.+Now __briefly__ touch the grounded jumper wire to Pin#7 of Cable Connector 10B - This will energize the coil for the REAR sparkplug ​and when the jumper wire is removed that coil should fire the spare plug thru the rear spark plug cable. A blue spark indicates a strong power level. A yellow spark indicates low power.
  
 This not only tests the coils, but all the wiring from ICM to the Spark Plugs. Power down and put everything back where it belongs. This not only tests the coils, but all the wiring from ICM to the Spark Plugs. Power down and put everything back where it belongs.
  
-If this test fails to produce a spark at each spark plug, and the spark plug wires and spark plugs are functional, then the coil itself is suspect. A (temporary) replacement coil should be utilized and the test performed again.+If this test fails to produce a strong, bright ​spark at each spark plug, and the spark plug wires and spark plugs are functional, then the coil itself is suspect. A (temporary) replacement coil should be utilized and the test performed again.
  
 **2007-2013** With the implementation of the Eletronic Fuel Injection Ignition System, there is now a System Relay. The Engine Control Module (ECM) is located under the seat. **2007-2013** With the implementation of the Eletronic Fuel Injection Ignition System, there is now a System Relay. The Engine Control Module (ECM) is located under the seat.
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 Take a short piece of wire (paper clip?) and ground one end by inserting it into Pin#10. Then, place the other end into Pin#2 to create the missing activation signal for the System Relay. Remove your spark plugs and ground them to a solid ground point (like the fins) where you can observe the elements for a spark. Take a short piece of wire (paper clip?) and ground one end by inserting it into Pin#10. Then, place the other end into Pin#2 to create the missing activation signal for the System Relay. Remove your spark plugs and ground them to a solid ground point (like the fins) where you can observe the elements for a spark.
  
-Place another short piece of wire (paper clip?) into Pin#11 and short it to Pin#10. Turn the Run/Stop switch to OFF/STOP - Turn the keyswitch fully on. Now, __briefly__,​ flip the Run/Stop switch to RUN and then back to OFF/STOP. By briefly activating the RUN switch, you will charge the coil for the REAR cylinder and it should fire the rear spark plug when you switch back to OFF/STOP. Turn the keyswith to OFF.+Place another short piece of wire (paper clip?) into Pin#11 and short it to Pin#10. Turn the Run/Stop switch to OFF/STOP - Turn the keyswitch fully on. Now, __briefly__,​ flip the Run/Stop switch to RUN and then back to OFF/STOP. By briefly activating the RUN switch, you will charge the coil for the REAR cylinder and it should fire the rear spark plug when you switch back to OFF/STOP. Turn the keyswith to OFF. A blue spark indicates a strong power level. A yellow spark indicates low power.
  
-Remove the wire from Pin#11 and place it into Pin#29 and short it to Pin#10. Turn the Run/Stop switch to OFF/STOP - Turn the keyswitch fully on. Now, __briefly__,​ flip the Run/Stop switch to RUN and then back to OFF/STOP. By briefly activating the RUN switch, you will charge the coil for the FRONT cylinder and it should fire the front spark plug when you switch back to OFF/STOP. Turn the keyswith to OFF.+Remove the wire from Pin#11 and place it into Pin#29 and short it to Pin#10. Turn the Run/Stop switch to OFF/STOP - Turn the keyswitch fully on. Now, __briefly__,​ flip the Run/Stop switch to RUN and then back to OFF/STOP. By briefly activating the RUN switch, you will charge the coil for the FRONT cylinder and it should fire the front spark plug when you switch back to OFF/​STOP. ​ A blue spark indicates a strong power level. A yellow spark indicates low power.\\ 
 +Turn the keyswith to OFF.
  
 This not only tests the coils, but all the wiring from ICM to the Spark Plugs. Power down and put everything back where it belongs. This not only tests the coils, but all the wiring from ICM to the Spark Plugs. Power down and put everything back where it belongs.
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    * Using harness Connector 14B (which goes to the ICM), briefly short Pin(B) to Pin(C) using a paper clip in the sockets    * Using harness Connector 14B (which goes to the ICM), briefly short Pin(B) to Pin(C) using a paper clip in the sockets
    * Note: __The first four signals are ignored__ so do this 6-10 times    * Note: __The first four signals are ignored__ so do this 6-10 times
-   * After the first four times, when the short is broken, the ICM should fire the coil+   * After the first four times, when the short is broken, the ICM should fire the coil & produce a blue spark. 
 +   * A blue spark indicates a strong power level. A yellow spark indicates low power.
    * (CAUTION - Never short (A) to either other pin or to ground)    * (CAUTION - Never short (A) to either other pin or to ground)
  
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       * The VOES has two connections and one adjusting screw. The VOES is connected to the carb (manifold side) through a vacuum hose and monitors the manifold vacuum level. It is also connected to the ICM. It has two black wires from the internal switch. From the inline connector, there is a (purple or purple/​white) single wire sent to the ICM and a second wire sent to ground. The VOES switching point is set by a concealed screw. This causes the ICM to switch between the two advance curves based on a set point level of manifold vacuum.       * The VOES has two connections and one adjusting screw. The VOES is connected to the carb (manifold side) through a vacuum hose and monitors the manifold vacuum level. It is also connected to the ICM. It has two black wires from the internal switch. From the inline connector, there is a (purple or purple/​white) single wire sent to the ICM and a second wire sent to ground. The VOES switching point is set by a concealed screw. This causes the ICM to switch between the two advance curves based on a set point level of manifold vacuum.
       * The adjusting screw is inside a sealed opening on the VOES. You must dig out the silicone sealing compound in order to make any adjustments. Remember - When testing your adjustments,​ you must also seal that opening with your thumb (or other air-tight sealing compound or tape) in order to prevent air leakage through the screw adjuster cavity.       * The adjusting screw is inside a sealed opening on the VOES. You must dig out the silicone sealing compound in order to make any adjustments. Remember - When testing your adjustments,​ you must also seal that opening with your thumb (or other air-tight sealing compound or tape) in order to prevent air leakage through the screw adjuster cavity.
-      * The only function of the VOES is to switch between the two advance curves that are programed into the ICM. Different ignition modules have different curves. Those curves have anywhere from 5 to 18 degrees difference in the advance settings between them. But that's another discussion.+      * The only function of the VOES is to switch between the two advance curves that are programed into the ICM. Different ignition modules have different ​set of 2 curves. Those two curves have anywhere from 5 to 18 degrees difference in the advance settings between them. But that's another discussion.
       * The manifold vacuum directly controls the VOES, but the throttle position (and/or it's aggressive changes) indirectly alters the VOES (thru changes in the manifold vacuum) by altering the carburetor throttle plate.       * The manifold vacuum directly controls the VOES, but the throttle position (and/or it's aggressive changes) indirectly alters the VOES (thru changes in the manifold vacuum) by altering the carburetor throttle plate.
       * When the engine is running at idle, when lightly accelerating or when using a steady cruise throttle, manifold vacuum is high (the throttle plate is mostly closed) and the VOES switch is ON, causing the ICM to use the MORE ADVANCED CURVE.       * When the engine is running at idle, when lightly accelerating or when using a steady cruise throttle, manifold vacuum is high (the throttle plate is mostly closed) and the VOES switch is ON, causing the ICM to use the MORE ADVANCED CURVE.
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         * With the engine idling, remove the vacuum hose from the carburetor and momentarily plug the carburetor fitting. Timing will retard and engine speed should decrease. Reinstall the vacuum hose to the carburetor. The timing mark should reappear and engine speed should increase to the preset speed. If the engine speed does not decrease and increase as described, check the VOES wiring connection to the computer module and ground wire. VOES must be replaced if malfunctioning.         * With the engine idling, remove the vacuum hose from the carburetor and momentarily plug the carburetor fitting. Timing will retard and engine speed should decrease. Reinstall the vacuum hose to the carburetor. The timing mark should reappear and engine speed should increase to the preset speed. If the engine speed does not decrease and increase as described, check the VOES wiring connection to the computer module and ground wire. VOES must be replaced if malfunctioning.
       * __Method #2__ ((HD Service Bulletin #M-858 dated October 7, 1982))       * __Method #2__ ((HD Service Bulletin #M-858 dated October 7, 1982))
-        * You will need a vacuum pump (with gauge) to create the desired vacuum level and an ohm meter.+        * You will need a vacuum pump (with gauge) to create the desired vacuum level and an ohm meter. \\ See [[techtalk:​ref:​tools160#​mityvac_vacuum_pump_function_and_usage|MityVac Vacuum Pump Function and Usage]] in the Sportsterpedia.
         * Remove ​ the  air  cleaner, disconnect the switch wire from the computer module connector under the fuel tank and remove the switch vacuum hose from the carburetor. The rear of fuel tank may have to be raised to disconnect the switch lead connector from the computer module connector.         * Remove ​ the  air  cleaner, disconnect the switch wire from the computer module connector under the fuel tank and remove the switch vacuum hose from the carburetor. The rear of fuel tank may have to be raised to disconnect the switch lead connector from the computer module connector.
         * Attach the ohmmeter leads to the switch wire and to ground. Attach the vacuum pump hose to the switch vacuum hose.         * Attach the ohmmeter leads to the switch wire and to ground. Attach the vacuum pump hose to the switch vacuum hose.
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 ((Most of the above information comes from an article by IXL2Relax of the XLFORUM.net http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1863153)) ((Most of the above information comes from an article by IXL2Relax of the XLFORUM.net http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1863153))
  
-====== IGNITION TIMING - All Models Thru 2003======+====== IGNITION TIMING - All Models ​1986 Thru 2003======
  
   * Ignition timing is when the spark takes place - specifically as the piston is traveling UP on the COMPRESSION stroke (compressing the gasses so that you get the most out of the explosion/​ignition). ((Moved On / My Own Choice http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=278587&​highlight=map+sensor&​page=2))   * Ignition timing is when the spark takes place - specifically as the piston is traveling UP on the COMPRESSION stroke (compressing the gasses so that you get the most out of the explosion/​ignition). ((Moved On / My Own Choice http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=278587&​highlight=map+sensor&​page=2))
-  * Top Dead Center is when the piston is at the VERY top of its travel, in the center of it's dwell area, and is usually referenced to mean on TDC of the COMPRESSION stroke (with the valves closed and the mixture compressed),​ though the piston will also be at TDC on the Exhaust stroke when the flywheel turns one complete rotation in either direction from TDC of compression. ((Moved On / My Own Choice http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=278587&​highlight=map+sensor&​page=2)) So, the piston will be at TDC twice per 1 full revolution of the cams. Timing is measured (and set) from TDC on the compression stroke. ​See more on [[techtalk:​ref:​svcproc22#​reftroubleshooting_-_engine_-_05|Finding TDC on Compression Stroke]] in the Sportsterpedia. +  * Top Dead Center is when the piston is at the VERY top of its travel, in the center of it's dwell area, and is usually referenced to mean on TDC of the COMPRESSION stroke (with the valves closed and the mixture compressed),​ though the piston will also be at TDC on the Exhaust stroke when the flywheel turns one complete rotation in either direction from TDC of compression. ((Moved On / My Own Choice http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=278587&​highlight=map+sensor&​page=2)) So, the piston will be at TDC twice per 1 full revolution of the cams. Timing is measured (and set) from TDC on the compression stroke. ​Check below for the images of cam notch on timing rotor position relative to TDC Compression or see more on [[techtalk:​ref:​svcproc22#​reftroubleshooting_-_engine_-_05|Finding TDC on Compression Stroke]] in the Sportsterpedia. 
-  * Spark ADVANCE - is how soon, BEFORE the piston reaches top dead center (or how late - AFTER top dead center) that the spark plug fires to start burning the mixture. The faster the motor is turning, the sooner you need to start the ignition (more advanced it needs to be) so that power of the expanding gasses starts pushing on that piston as soon as it starts moving downward and pushes as long as will be beneficial. ((Moved On / My Own Choice http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=278587&​highlight=map+sensor&​page=2))+  * Spark ADVANCE - is how soon, BEFORE the piston reaches top dead center (all proper timing is BEFORE TDC) that the spark plug fires to start burning the mixture. The faster the motor is turning, the sooner you need to start the ignition (more advanced it needs to be) so that the power of the expanding gasses starts pushing on that piston as soon as it starts moving downward and pushes as long as will be beneficial. ((Moved On / My Own Choice http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=278587&​highlight=map+sensor&​page=2))
     * Ignite it too soon, and the gasses start pushing down as the piston is still coming up (spark knock, pinging etc). ((Moved On / My Own Choice http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=278587&​highlight=map+sensor&​page=2))     * Ignite it too soon, and the gasses start pushing down as the piston is still coming up (spark knock, pinging etc). ((Moved On / My Own Choice http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=278587&​highlight=map+sensor&​page=2))
     * Ignite it too late, and you loose a lot of the power of the gases, since the piston will reach bottom before the gasses finish expanding. ((Moved On / My Own Choice http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=278587&​highlight=map+sensor&​page=2))     * Ignite it too late, and you loose a lot of the power of the gases, since the piston will reach bottom before the gasses finish expanding. ((Moved On / My Own Choice http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=278587&​highlight=map+sensor&​page=2))
  
-     ^  0°=TDC ​ ^  20°BTDC Adv  ^  40°BTDC Adv  ^ Timing Hole  ​^          | +Year ^  0°=TDC\\ Timing Mark  ​^ ​ 20°BTDC Adv\\ Timing Mark  ​^ ​ 40°BTDC Adv\\ Timing Mark  ​^ ​ Timing Hole\\ on Engine ​ ​^  ​Notes  |
-^ Year ^ Timing Mark ^ Timing Mark ^ Timing Mark ^  ​Lt/Rt        ^  Notes   |+
 | 1986-90 | Vertical Line | Single Dot |  None  |  Left Side  | Approx. 1000rpm=20°Adv - Using Timing Light - Look for Single Dot - 4sp Trans| | 1986-90 | Vertical Line | Single Dot |  None  |  Left Side  | Approx. 1000rpm=20°Adv - Using Timing Light - Look for Single Dot - 4sp Trans|
 | 1991-95 | Vertical Line | Single Dot |  None  |  Right Side  | Approx. 1000rpm=20°Adv - Using Timing Light - Look for Single Dot - 5sp Trans| | 1991-95 | Vertical Line | Single Dot |  None  |  Right Side  | Approx. 1000rpm=20°Adv - Using Timing Light - Look for Single Dot - 5sp Trans|
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 | 2000-03 | Vertical Line | Double Dots |  Some-SingleDot ​ |  Right Side  | Approx. 1000rpm=20°Adv - Using Timing Light - Look for Double Dots - Press Fit Flywheel | | 2000-03 | Vertical Line | Double Dots |  Some-SingleDot ​ |  Right Side  | Approx. 1000rpm=20°Adv - Using Timing Light - Look for Double Dots - Press Fit Flywheel |
 |  The Timing Hole Plug (HD P/N 720) can be removed with a 3/8" Allen Hex Key - It has 5/8-18 threads ​ |||||| |  The Timing Hole Plug (HD P/N 720) can be removed with a 3/8" Allen Hex Key - It has 5/8-18 threads ​ ||||||
 +|  Some 1996-2003 flywheels have a Single Dot to indicate 40° BTDC when engine rpm is ~3500 rpms  ||||||
 | 2004-later | **No Timing Hole or Timing Marks on Flywheel** - Base Timing is set in programmable Engine Control Module using CKP Sensor at Flywheel Teeth ||||| | 2004-later | **No Timing Hole or Timing Marks on Flywheel** - Base Timing is set in programmable Engine Control Module using CKP Sensor at Flywheel Teeth |||||
  
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 The timing marks on the flywheel can be seen thru the timing hole, which is situated on the left or right side of the engine, on the crankcase just below the cylinders. The timing hole plug can be removed with a 3/8" Allen Hex Key. Removing the Timing Hole Plug allows you to find the timing marks by peering into the hole. Use the clear timing plug when doing a dynamic setting of the timimg with a timing light flashing into the clear plug to highlight the marks on the flywheel. The timing marks on the flywheel can be seen thru the timing hole, which is situated on the left or right side of the engine, on the crankcase just below the cylinders. The timing hole plug can be removed with a 3/8" Allen Hex Key. Removing the Timing Hole Plug allows you to find the timing marks by peering into the hole. Use the clear timing plug when doing a dynamic setting of the timimg with a timing light flashing into the clear plug to highlight the marks on the flywheel.
  
-The Nosecone Ignition unit (98-03 not-S) can be **statically** timed (without ​the engine running) using the built-in LEDThe procedure is to manually ​rotate the engine (bike on lift, 5th gear, rotate rear tire to rotate engineto position ​the engine to TDC (front cylinder ​compression stroke) using the timing ​hole to look for & center ​the vertical lineThen, turn the ICM/Cam Sensor Plate slightly clockwise & counterclockwise ​to find the exact spot where the light switches between on & off - Lock down the plate.((aswracing comments http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1662422))+**Static Timing the 1998-2003 Models ​(Not-S)**\\ 
 +Important: Be sure you are on the compression stroke of the front cylinder when setting the Static TimingWhen you rotate the engine (as followsbe sure you feel the pressure in the front cylinder ​spark plug hole is building up as you rotate toward ​the TDC markTurn the engine over as often as necessary ​to guarantee you are on the compression stroke of the front cylinder.
  
-To set the timing ​**dynamically**, first, remove the timing plug & install the clear timing hole viewer plug (It MUST NOT touch the flywheel). Connect ​the clamp of an inductive pickup timing light (powered by the battery) to the front spark plug wire. This will allow you to '​shoot ​the light' into/thru the clear viewer plug. Then start the engineset the idle at 1000rpms ​shoot the light into the timing holeMove the timing plate so that the 20° advance timing mark shows up in the center of the timing hole.+The Nosecone Ignition unit (98-03 not-S) can be **statically** timed (without ​the engine runningusing the built-in LEDThe procedure is to manually rotate ​the engine ​(bike on lift, 5th gear, rotate rear tire to rotate engine) to position ​the engine to TDC (front cylinder compression stroke) using the timing hole to look for & center ​the vertical line. Then, turn the ICM/Cam Sensor Plate slightly clockwise ​counterclockwise to find the exact spot where the light switches between on & off - Lock down the plate.((aswracing comments http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1662422)) In this way, the ignition module is synchronized to the engine (TDC) so that it can effectively calculate ​the proper time to fire the spark plug BEFORE TDC.
  
 +**Static Timing the 1998-2003 Sport Model**\\
 +Important: Be sure you are on the compression stroke of the front cylinder when setting the Static Timing. When you rotate the engine (as follows) be sure you feel the pressure in the front cylinder spark plug hole is building up as you rotate toward the TDC mark. Turn the engine over as often as necessary to guarantee you are on the compression stroke of the front cylinder.
 +
 +  * With the transmission in 5th gear and the timing hole plug removed, rotate the rear tire to rotate the engine until the TDC mark is centered in the hole. The TDC mark is the Vertical Bar. This must be on the compression stroke of the front cylinder.
 +  * Connect the BLACK probe of a multimeter (set on the 20v DC scale) to a good ground (Batt Neg, Frame, etc. or to Pin8 of the Gray ECM connector). Connect the RED probe to the ECM Gray Connector, Pin3, GREEN/White wire. This pin has the signal from the Cam Position Sensor (CPS). (Note: The '98 service manual incorrectly identifies Pin1 as that signal - do not monitor Pin1 which is the power to the sensor.)
 +  * Remove the cover of the nosecone, where the CPS Plate is located. Important: Place a reference mark on the plate and on the sidewall of the nosecone.
 +  * Loosen both tall mounting screws on the CPS Plate and rotate the plate counter-clockwise a small amount.
 +  * Now, turn the Keyswitch ON fully, set the RUN/STOP switch to RUN and watch the multimeter. It should be reading >4v at this time. If not, rotate the Plate a small amount more counter-clockwise until the meter reads >4v DC.
 +  * Now, rotate the CPS Plate clockwise, very slowly, until the meter reads <1v DC. That is the Static Timing point for TDC. Once you are sure you are exactly on the change between >4v & <1v, lock down the tall mounting screws to secure the CPS Plate in that position.
 +  * Turn off the keyswitch & remove the meter & close the nosecone.
 +
 +**Setting the Dynamic Timing**\\
 +To set the timing **dynamically**,​ with the engine operating, first, remove the timing plug & install the clear timing hole viewer plug (It MUST NOT touch the flywheel but needs to be as close as possible). Connect the clamp of an inductive pickup timing light (powered by the battery) to the front spark plug wire. This will allow you to 'shoot the light' into/thru the clear viewer plug. Then start the engine, set the idle at 1000 RPMs & shoot the light into the timing hole. Move the timing plate so that the 20° advance timing mark shows up in the center of the timing hole.
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-**Moving the Cam Sensor Plate Clockwise (CW) will increase the Advance Before TDC. Moving the plate Counterclockwise (CCW) will retard (or reduce) the Advance Before TDC. Note that each timing mark on the plate (long-to-short) is equal to changing the ignition timing by 5°. Move the plate __VERY LITTLE__ to make adjustments.** ((aswracing post#17 at http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=488663))+**Moving the Cam Sensor Plate Clockwise (CW) will increase the Advance Before TDC. Moving the plate Counterclockwise (CCW) will retard (or reduce) the Advance Before TDC. TAKE NOTE that each timing mark on the plate (long-to-short) is equal to changing the ignition timing by 5°. Move the plate __VERY LITTLE__ to make adjustments.** ((aswracing post#17 at http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=488663))
  
-The Cam Sensor Plate can be rotated slightly to accomodate getting the timing mark in the center of the timing hole. You can also move the plate to change the base timing (thus moving the whole curve sets up or down in rpm range) by setting the 1000rpm ​timing to a few degrees more or less than the specified (20° BTDC) advance timing mark.+The Cam Sensor Plate can be rotated slightly to accomodate getting the timing mark in the center of the timing hole. You can also move the plate to change the base timing (thus moving the whole curve sets up or down in rpm range) by setting the timing ​(at 1000 RPMs) to a few degrees more or less than the specified (20° BTDC) advance timing mark. You should be able to see the timing mark move to the right edge of the hole (more advanced) or the left edge of the hole (less advanced). You might find that a Timing Light with a Dial Back feature allows you to set a specific alternate timing setting, but some of these lights have trouble working with the odd timing signals from a dual-spark 45° engine.
  
 Adding more advance will increase the likelihood of pinging when the engine is hot and/or under heavy acceleration. It is not recommended to move the timing (from 20°BTDC) more than an absolute total of 10° either way. That's only two tick marks! Adding more advance will increase the likelihood of pinging when the engine is hot and/or under heavy acceleration. It is not recommended to move the timing (from 20°BTDC) more than an absolute total of 10° either way. That's only two tick marks!