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techtalk:evo:engmech03a [2019/08/01 04:09] hippysmack [Loose Head Bolt Studs] |
techtalk:evo:engmech03a [2019/08/04 14:48] hippysmack [Sub Documents] |
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====== Cylinder / Head Bolt Issues and Repair ====== | ====== Cylinder / Head Bolt Issues and Repair ====== | ||
===== Sub Documents ===== | ===== Sub Documents ===== | ||
- | See also [[techtalk:evo:engmech03b|Time-Sert Repair on Engine Case Cylinder / Head Stud Hole]] in the Sportsterpedia for cylinder / head stud repair. | + | See also in the Sportsterpedia: |
- | + | * [[techtalk:evo:engmech03b|Time-Sert Repair on Engine Case Cylinder / Head Stud Hole]] | |
+ | * [[techtalk:ref:genmsr36#warped_or_damaged_thread_repair|Warped or Damaged Thread Repair]] | ||
===== Loose Head Bolt Studs ===== | ===== Loose Head Bolt Studs ===== | ||
A big concern about the studs becoming loose is the threads being stripped in the case. \\ | A big concern about the studs becoming loose is the threads being stripped in the case. \\ | ||
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==== Using a pipe wrench to loosen the stud ==== | ==== Using a pipe wrench to loosen the stud ==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | A propane torch works well to melt or loosen old Loctite (red or blue) on the threads. \\ | ||
Catch the stud down low, but not so low as to run the wrench into the block. \\ | Catch the stud down low, but not so low as to run the wrench into the block. \\ | ||
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The pipe wrench is mainly to break torque. It's easier to get out of hand and damage something if it's not needed after that. \\ | The pipe wrench is mainly to break torque. It's easier to get out of hand and damage something if it's not needed after that. \\ | ||
+ | If the pipe wrench slips, you may need to adjust the wrench so the stud is closer to the inside teeth. \\ | ||
+ | You may need to loosen the jaws to move the stud back. \\ | ||
+ | The wrench doesn't have to be tight against the stud to grip. \\ | ||
+ | It works by the magic of binding onto the stud. \\ | ||
+ | It's important to hold center on the wrench and stud with one hand. \\ | ||
+ | You can try getting a grip by tilting the handle up with just a little pressure and then back level. \\ | ||
+ | You just have to find a way to make the wrench bind against the stud. \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | |If the wrench doesn't grip, make it bind on the stud. ((photo by Blue Scoot of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2074117&highlight=head+gasket&page=6)) | | ||
+ | |{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:removing_cylinder_stud_with_pipe_wrench_by_blue_scoot.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==== Using Double Nuts / Jam Nuts ==== | ||
+ | Install 2 nuts on the top threads and torque the two nuts to 35ft pounds or higher. \\ | ||
+ | Be aware the tall studs can stretch if it takes too much torque to break them free. \\ | ||
+ | Be sure to use rags around the bore so as to not get any debris in the engine while removing the stud(s). \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | | Three jam nuts used here. ((photo by A 4 liter V8 eater of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=4442041#post4442041))| | ||
+ | |{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:tightening_cylinder_-_head_studs_by_a_4_liter_v8_eater.png?direct&300|}}| | ||
===== Stripped Case Threads ===== | ===== Stripped Case Threads ===== | ||