Differences

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--- techtalk:evo:oil03 [2019/08/05 12:43]
ixl2relax [Known Drive Gear Failure]
+++ techtalk:evo:oil03 [2020/11/07 04:47]
hippysmack [Priming the Oil Pump]
@@ Line 72: / Line 72: @@
 |  Typical 98-up gerotor positioning over the pickup cavities (07 pump shown). ((photos by Hippysmack))  ||
 |{{:techtalk:evo:oil:2007_and_up_oil_pump_2_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:oil:2007_and_up_oil_pump_5a_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|
-====== Oil Pump Pressure ======
+====== Oil Pump Pressure (86-Up) ======
+See also [[techtalk:ref:oil15|Installing an Oil Pressure Gauge]] in the REF section of the Sportsterpedia. \\
+Engine oil pressure was measured (by the MoCo) with a pressure gauge at the oil pump. \\
 Expected oil pump pressure per FSM's: \\
 ===== Gauge mounted at tappet hole plug =====
 As checked with hot oil and a gauge at the plug hole on the engine case between the tappets. \\
@@ Line 209: / Line 213: @@
 ====== Oil Pump Drive Gear ======
 **88 and up**: \\
+A material change to cast iron for increased service life was implemented on April 23, 1992. ((HD Tech Tip #TT039 dated July 1992)) \\
+The new gear has a part number change to 26318-88A. This part will retrofit to all Sportster models, 1988 and later. \\
 Below is a used gear that does show some wear. \\
 {{:techtalk:evo:oil:91-up_oil_pump_drive_gear_1_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)){{:techtalk:evo:oil:illustration_of_helical_gear_tooth_formation_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}} ((drawing by Hippysmack)) \\
@@ Line 243: / Line 250: @@
   * Generally speaking, the stock (drive gear) is fine for stock power levels and rpm's. Sure, there are some failures on stock or near stock bikes, but it's pretty rare. ((aswracing of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1920827&highlight=pinion+gear+locking+tool&page=2)) Of course, they do eventually wear down and should be replaced with the upgraded version.
   * The OEM gear is hardened on the surface, but once that is worn through it will wear extremely fast. ((Scuba10jdl http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2002257&highlight=pinion+gear+part+number))
-  * This is a common failure in [high HP or RPM] Sportsters, even when nothing gets into the pump to lock it up first. ((aswracing of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1848987)) The teeth get sharp and then they break off. \\ If something gets into the pump and locks it up, the teeth get ripped off the gear. ((aswracing of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1974986&highlight=bronze+drive+gear&page=3))
+  * This is a common failure in [high HP or RPM] Sportsters, even when nothing gets into the pump to lock it up first. ((aswracing of the XLFORUM xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1920827&page=2)) The teeth get sharp and then they break off. \\ If something gets into the pump and locks it up, the teeth get ripped off the gear. ((aswracing of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1974986&highlight=bronze+drive+gear&page=3))
   * The failure happens because of pinion shaft runout which causes the engagement depth of the teeth to change as the pinion shaft rotates. \\ What happens is the gear will wear badly in one area. You'll see the teeth getting real sharp there. 180 degrees from that spot, the gear will look like new. ((aswracing of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1920827&highlight=pinion+gear+locking+tool&page=2))
   * So lots of people get fooled when they check the gear. They'll look at the visible portion from their vantage point only. \\ You have to look all the way around the gear though. The wear will be isolated to one area only. ((aswracing of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1920827&highlight=pinion+gear+locking+tool&page=2))
@@ Line 297: / Line 304: @@
 \\
-====== Priming the Oil Pump ======
-A dry pump won't pump oil. \\
-It will 'cavitate' when their is not a hydraulic seal between the gerotors and the inlet hose from the tank. \\
-Any time you have removed the oil pump or the removed / drained the feed hose from the oil tank, the pump needs to be primed. \\
-  * The oil pump needs to be primed with oil / lube before it can transfer oil from the inlet to the outlet cavity inside.
-    * Prime the oil pump per the FSM;
-      * Upon removal / inspection, oil the pump internals.
-      * Remove the oil pressure switch and rotate the engine until oil comes out the end of the pump and reinstall the switch.
-    * If you let it sit long enough, oil will gravity drain inside the pump and prime it.
-    * Another way to prime the pump is to use assembly lube on the gerotors and inside of the pump before installing it. ((aswracing of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=4805186#post4805186)) \\ Then you have an instant hydraulic seal to help the oil pump suck oil from the hose.
-    * You can also using a large syringe with a tapered tip inserted into the oil supply hose on the bottom of the oil tank. ((ericfreeman of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5751479#post5751479)) \\ Then you can force feed oil the pump and on to the engine using this technique and it avoids having to mess with the sending unit.

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