Differences
This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.
| Both sides previous revision Previous revision Next revision | Previous revision Next revision Both sides next revision | ||
|
techtalk:evo:priclutch01 [2021/01/21 05:40] ixl2relax [Spring Plate Failure] |
techtalk:evo:priclutch01 [2021/01/21 05:56] ixl2relax [Clutch Release Adjustment - Why & How] |
||
|---|---|---|---|
| Line 117: | Line 117: | ||
| ===== Clutch Release Adjustment - Why & How ===== | ===== Clutch Release Adjustment - Why & How ===== | ||
| - | This explanation of why & how you adjust the clutch release point pulls together information from members on the XLForum. \\ | + | This explanation of why & how you adjust the clutch release point pulls together information from members on the XLForum.\\ |
| - | ([[http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=168162|THIS_THREAD]] from member XLXR is informative) \\ | + | ([[http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=168162|THIS_THREAD]] from member XLXR is informative)\\ |
| ([[http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=49915|THIS_THREAD]] from member cjburr has some nice pictures of the parts discussed.) | ([[http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=49915|THIS_THREAD]] from member cjburr has some nice pictures of the parts discussed.) | ||
| The adjuster screw under the derby cover controls when the Ball & Ramp begins to move the pressure plate. The pressure plate must move a sufficient range for the clutch plates to move from fully engaged to fully disengaged. | The adjuster screw under the derby cover controls when the Ball & Ramp begins to move the pressure plate. The pressure plate must move a sufficient range for the clutch plates to move from fully engaged to fully disengaged. | ||
| - | **Quoting XLXR** - If the adjuster screw is too loose, the pressure plate will not be able to move the full distance it needs to and the clutch plates will not fully disengage causing hard shifting, hard to find neutral and clutch dragging while in gear with lever pulled in. | + | **Quoting XLXR** - If the adjuster screw is too loose, the pressure plate will not be able to move the full distance it needs to and the clutch plates will not fully disengage causing hard shifting, hard to find neutral and clutch dragging while in gear with lever pulled in. |
| If the adjuster screw is too tight, the pressure plate will not move far enough to allow the clutch plates to fully engage and the clutch will slip. | If the adjuster screw is too tight, the pressure plate will not move far enough to allow the clutch plates to fully engage and the clutch will slip. | ||
| Line 129: | Line 129: | ||
| In addition, if the adjuster screw is too loose, no amount of tightening the cable adjuster will compensate because the cable adjuster really does nothing except adjust the slack in the clutch cable and position of the lever. If the adjuster screw is too tight, no amount of loosing the cable adjuster will compensate. **(End Quote)** | In addition, if the adjuster screw is too loose, no amount of tightening the cable adjuster will compensate because the cable adjuster really does nothing except adjust the slack in the clutch cable and position of the lever. If the adjuster screw is too tight, no amount of loosing the cable adjuster will compensate. **(End Quote)** | ||
| - | Remember, the **Cable Adjuster** is for the Cable slack only, which sets the position of your Clutch Lever. The Clutch Release Adjuster is for the Clutch pack slack only, it sets when the Clutch begins to release. These are two different adjustments for two different functions. | + | Remember, the **Cable Adjuster** is for the Cable slack only, which sets the position of your Clutch Lever. The Clutch Release Adjuster is for the Clutch pack slack only, it sets when the Clutch begins to release. These are two different adjustments for two different functions. |
| - | **Conceptual Diagram for Adjustments** \\ {{:techtalk:evo:priclutch:clutchadjustments-diagram.jpg}}((Illustration created by IXL2Relax at the XLForum)) | + | **Conceptual Diagram for Adjustments** \\ |
| + | {{:techtalk:evo:priclutch:clutchadjustments-diagram.jpg|clutchadjustments-diagram.jpg}}((Illustration created by IXL2Relax at the XLForum)) | ||
| - | The diagram illustrates three zones on the Clutch Lever - When fully released, Zone(1) is the 1/8" Cable Free Play where there is no tension whatsoever from the cable pulling on the lever - The lever just sorta dangles there in its mount… As you pull the Clutch Lever toward the handlebar, you reach Zone(2) which is the Adjuster Free Play - The cable is now pulling on the Ball & Ramp, rotating it to expand… This brings us to Zone(3) which occurs when the Ball & Ramp has expanded far enough to actully begin pulling the Clutch Pressure Plate away from the Clutch Pack. Zone(3) continues all the way until the Clutch Lever reaches the handlebar. If adjusted correctly, you will have these three distinct zones in the movement of your Clutch Lever and the Clutch Pack will be fully dis-engaged before the end of Zone(3) - before the lever is against the handlebars. | + | The diagram illustrates three zones on the Clutch Lever - When fully released, Zone(1) is the 1/8" Cable Free Play where there is no tension whatsoever from the cable pulling on the lever - The lever just sorta dangles there in its mount… As you pull the Clutch Lever toward the handlebar, you reach Zone((Tomcatt of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5761621&highlight=clutch#post5761621)) which is the Adjuster Free Play - The cable is now pulling on the Ball & Ramp, rotating it to expand… This brings us to Zone((thanks to Jollly Rogers for the suggestion http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5761695#post5761695)) which occurs when the Ball & Ramp has expanded far enough to actully begin pulling the Clutch Pressure Plate away from the Clutch Pack. Zone(3) continues all the way until the Clutch Lever reaches the handlebar. If adjusted correctly, you will have these three distinct zones in the movement of your Clutch Lever and the Clutch Pack will be fully dis-engaged before the end of Zone(3) - before the lever is against the handlebars. |
| Zone 2 diminishes as the plates wear. The actual lever free play (Zone 1) should not change as the clutch plates wear - Here's why: | Zone 2 diminishes as the plates wear. The actual lever free play (Zone 1) should not change as the clutch plates wear - Here's why: | ||
| Line 143: | Line 144: | ||
| BUT, since the Ball & Ramp Assy is mounted to the Primary Cover, there is no change in the position or movement of that assembly with which the lever interacts. Therefore, Zone 1 does not change - The lever will continue to move 1/8" before starting to tug on the Ball & Ramp coupling. | BUT, since the Ball & Ramp Assy is mounted to the Primary Cover, there is no change in the position or movement of that assembly with which the lever interacts. Therefore, Zone 1 does not change - The lever will continue to move 1/8" before starting to tug on the Ball & Ramp coupling. | ||
| - | Eventually the friction zone begins to slide past the point on the clutch lever where Zone 2 meets Zone 1, and the bearing is now fully active, laterally, all the time (since the pressure plate is moving inward as the plates wear) and the Clutch Pack is slipping because the Pressure Plate can no longer fully compress the pack… \\ | + | Eventually the friction zone begins to slide past the point on the clutch lever where Zone 2 meets Zone 1, and the bearing is now fully active, laterally, all the time (since the pressure plate is moving inward as the plates wear) and the Clutch Pack is slipping because the Pressure Plate can no longer fully compress the pack…\\ |
| (Also see this [[http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1978641|__XLFORUM THREAD__]]) | (Also see this [[http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1978641|__XLFORUM THREAD__]]) | ||
| - | __**MAKING THE CLUTCH RELEASE ADJUSTMENT**__ - Refer to your FSM to be sure this procedure is correct for your particular model - Check/Adjust every 5000 miles (or as needed). Grab the Clutch Lever and squeeze and release a few times before you start - This helps to settle the position of the Release Adjuster… | + | __**MAKING THE CLUTCH RELEASE ADJUSTMENT**__ - Refer to your FSM to be sure this procedure is correct for your particular model - Check/Adjust every 5000 miles (or as needed). Grab the Clutch Lever and squeeze and release a few times before you start - This helps to settle the position of the Release Adjuster… |
| - | Now find the Clutch __Cable Adjuster__ - Move the boot & loosen the Jam Nut - Fully loosen the tension by screwing the two parts of the Clutch Cable Adjuster together, thus making the adjuster shorter - thereby the cable (and lever) becomes loose… | + | Now find the Clutch __Cable Adjuster__ - Move the boot & loosen the Jam Nut - Fully loosen the tension by screwing the two parts of the Clutch Cable Adjuster together, thus making the adjuster shorter - thereby the cable (and lever) becomes loose… |
| Remove the Clutch Inspection Cover (off the Primary Housing - Small Cover on '86-'93 - Large 'Derby Cover' on '94-up) (You may have to loosen or remove the left mid-mount foot peg) - be careful as you remove the cover because there is an internal spring & Release Adjuster Position Lock Nut - Remove the internal spring & Release Adjuster Position Lock Nut… | Remove the Clutch Inspection Cover (off the Primary Housing - Small Cover on '86-'93 - Large 'Derby Cover' on '94-up) (You may have to loosen or remove the left mid-mount foot peg) - be careful as you remove the cover because there is an internal spring & Release Adjuster Position Lock Nut - Remove the internal spring & Release Adjuster Position Lock Nut… | ||
| - | Turn the center screw of the Release Adjuster clockwise one turn away from the original position to be sure you are fully unloading any pressure - then **slowly turn the Release Adjuster screw COUNTERCLOCKWISE until you feel ANY CHANGE IN TENSION** - Do this a few times to be sure you feel the right spot where tension begins – When you're satisfied you have the right spot, turn the adjuster screw back __clockwise 1/4 to 3/8 of a turn__ to be sure no preload tension is on the Diaphragm Spring. | + | Turn the center screw of the Release Adjuster clockwise one turn away from the original position to be sure you are fully unloading any pressure - then **slowly turn the Release Adjuster screw COUNTERCLOCKWISE until you feel ANY CHANGE IN TENSION** - Do this a few times to be sure you feel the right spot where tension begins – When you're satisfied you have the right spot, turn the adjuster screw back __clockwise 1/4 to 3/8 of a turn__ to be sure no preload tension is on the Diaphragm Spring. |
| + | Place the Release Adjuster Position Lock Nut back in place (turning the screw farther __**CLOCKWISE ONLY - JUST ENOUGH**__ to get the nut to fit in the nearest position - Do not turn the screw more counterclockwise) - Place the spring back over the nut and place the Inspection Cover back onto the Primary Housing and retighten the foot peg if necessary… | ||
| - | **Side note**: \\ | + | **Side note**: |
| - | It may be difficult to feel the right spot while turning the screw. ((Tomcatt of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5761621&highlight=clutch#post5761621 )) ((thanks to Jollly Rogers for the suggestion http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5761695#post5761695)) \\ | + | |
| - | You may want to grab the release arm and check for movement where the cable attaches. \\ | + | |
| - | Play (or lack of play) is obvious there as you adjust the screw. \\ Check for movement there, same direction as the cable operating the release. \\ | + | |
| - | You can easily feel the clearance change at the arm as you adjust the screw vs the vague feel you get at the screw. \\ | + | |
| - | The "feel" at the release arm where the clutch cable attaches is very distinct so you have a high degree of confidence you got it right. \\ | + | |
| - | Place the Release Adjuster Position Lock Nut back in place (turning the screw farther __**CLOCKWISE ONLY - JUST ENOUGH**__ to get the nut to fit in the nearest position - Do not turn the screw more counterclockwise) - Place the spring back over the nut and place the Inspection Cover back onto the Primary Housing and retighten the foot peg if necessary… | + | * It may be difficult to feel the right spot while turning the screw. <sup>((2)))</sup> <sup>((3)))</sup> |
| + | * You may want to grab the release arm and check for movement where the cable attaches. | ||
| + | * Play (or lack of play) is obvious there as you adjust the screw. \\ Check for movement there, same direction as the cable operating the release. | ||
| + | * You can easily feel the clearance change at the arm as you adjust the screw vs the vague feel you get at the screw. | ||
| + | * The "feel" at the release arm where the clutch cable attaches is very distinct so you have a high degree of confidence you got it right. | ||
| Now, go back to the Clutch __Cable Adjuster__ - Unscrew the two parts to lengthen the Adjuster just enough that there is still 1/8" of free play in the clutch lever movement BEFORE IT BEGINS TO ENGAGE THE CLUTCH RELEASE (check this at the cable connection to the lever) - Now tighten the Jam Nut on the cable adjuster and move the rubber boot back over it… | Now, go back to the Clutch __Cable Adjuster__ - Unscrew the two parts to lengthen the Adjuster just enough that there is still 1/8" of free play in the clutch lever movement BEFORE IT BEGINS TO ENGAGE THE CLUTCH RELEASE (check this at the cable connection to the lever) - Now tighten the Jam Nut on the cable adjuster and move the rubber boot back over it… | ||
| Line 170: | Line 171: | ||
| **NOW PUT THE TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL!!!** | **NOW PUT THE TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL!!!** | ||
| - | **BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL WHEN OPERATING THE BIKE AFTER MAKING A CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT - IF YOU GOT IT WRONG, THE BIKE MAY SURGE FORWARD WHEN YOU PUT IT IN GEAR EVEN THOUGH YOU HAVE THE CLUTCH LEVER PULLED FULLY AGAINST THE GRIP!!! BE SAFE - CHECK & DOUBLE CHECK!!!** | + | <font inherit/inherit;;#ffffff;;#ff0000>**BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL WHEN OPERATING THE BIKE AFTER MAKING A CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT - IF YOU GOT IT WRONG, THE BIKE MAY SURGE FORWARD WHEN YOU PUT IT IN GEAR EVEN THOUGH YOU HAVE THE CLUTCH LEVER PULLED FULLY AGAINST THE GRIP!!! BE SAFE - CHECK & DOUBLE CHECK!!!</font>** |
| ==== Pics ==== | ==== Pics ==== | ||
