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techtalk:evo:priclutch02 [2019/11/13 04:06] hippysmack [Removing the Primary Drive] |
techtalk:evo:priclutch02 [2019/11/13 04:12] hippysmack [Removing the Primary Drive] |
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====== Removing the Primary Drive ====== | ====== Removing the Primary Drive ====== | ||
+ | 91 and later models. \\ | ||
+ | See also [[techtalk:ref:tools139|Replacing Stator Magnets]] in the tools section of the Sportsterpedia. \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | Loosen the nuts / bolts holding the engine sprocket and clutch basket on. \\ | ||
+ | The engine sprocket has right hand threads and the clutch basket has left hand threads. \\ | ||
+ | A reversible impact wrench has been used successfully to remove both the engine sprocket and the clutch basket nut. \\ | ||
+ | However, it's been debatable whether you can accurately install them back to proper torque without using a torque wrench instead. \\ | ||
+ | Whichever way you remove them, use regular six-sided sockets. \\ | ||
+ | They are less likely to slip and round off the edges of the nuts. Impact-type sockets are likely too thick to fit. \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | {{:techtalk:ref:tools:engine_sprocket_removal_-_installation_by_tigercreek.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by tigercreek of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1823130)) {{:techtalk:ref:tools:clutch_nut_removal_by_tigercreek.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by tigercreek of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1823130)) \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | Normally when loosening or tightening these nuts, you will need to **lock the hub & sprocket** - Do not wedge the chain. \\ | ||
+ | You can buy a primary locking tool (bar) or use a closed 4" BRASS hinge as a wedge. Place the wedge so as not to put pressure on the shifter shaft \\ | ||
+ | There are also several 4 and 5 speed [[techtalk:ref:tools116#engine_and_clutch_sprocket_locking_tools|primary locking tool examples]] in the tool section. \\ | ||
+ | A closed 4" BRASS hinge also works well to lock the sprockets and then you can use a pull bar and sockets / socket wrench. \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | {{techtalk:ref:tools:primary-brasshinge-lock.jpg?300|}} ((photo by Scuba10jdl of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=53268)) \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | The threads should have previously been assembled with red Loctite. \\ | ||
+ | Using a propane torch (on the nut or bolt only) will heat up and melt / soften the Loctite somewhat to make removal easier. \\ | ||
+ | Remove both fasteners holding them on before attempting to remove either. \\ | ||
+ | Big socket wrenches or pullbars give you a lot more leverage to make removing the fasteners less strenuous. \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | **Note**: \\ | ||
+ | The engine sprocket has right hand threads (lefty loosy-righty tighty) \\ | ||
+ | The clutch basket has left hand threads (lefty tighty-righty loosy) \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | {{:techtalk:evo:engmech:removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_1_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:techtalk:evo:engmech:removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_2_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | The engine sprocket and clutch hub should be removed as one unit. \\ | ||
+ | Both have to come out together to some point since the chain will tighten and neither will budge at that point. \\ | ||
+ | Once they are both moved out far enough, you may be able to get one or the other to come off without the other. \\ | ||
+ | Once the sprocket and clutch basket is removed, you can gain access to the mounting screws for the stator. \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | You'd think both should slide off at this point. \\ | ||
+ | However, the magnets on the engine sprocket are very strong and will keep a good amount of pressure toward the engine until it's moved out so far. \\ | ||
+ | Pull the clutch basket out as far as possible and then maneuver your fingers both hands under the engine sprocket. \\ | ||
+ | Rock it side to side while pulling outward. \\ | ||
+ | Slowly you can rock it out enough to get your fingers under it to move it out far enough to release the force generated by the magnets. \\ | ||
+ | If the chain gets tight, move the clutch basket out some more and go back to the sprocket. \\ | ||
+ | DO NOT DROP THE ENGINE SPROCKET. The magnets can crack or break off and that's a different problem. \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | {{:techtalk:evo:engmech:removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_4_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | However they come off is fine as long as they are not dropped. \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | {{:techtalk:evo:elec:replacing_the_stator_on_91-03_pic_5_by_tigercreek.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by tigercreek of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1823130)) {{:techtalk:evo:engmech:removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_3_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:techtalk:evo:engmech:removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_5_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | Make sure you already have a place to put them and a clear walking path before removing them from the engine. \\ | ||
+ | Cover them to keep dirt / debris off them until they are ready to go back on. \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | {{:techtalk:evo:engmech:removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_7_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:techtalk:evo:engmech:removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_8_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | Slip the primary cover back on and stuff rags in the openings when not working inside the engine to help keep out dirt / debris. \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | {{:techtalk:evo:engmech:removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_6_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:techtalk:evo:engmech:removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_9_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\ | ||
+ | |||
- | 91 and later models. | ||