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techtalk:evo:priclutch02 [2019/11/13 04:06]
hippysmack [Removing the Primary Drive]
techtalk:evo:priclutch02 [2019/11/13 04:12]
hippysmack [Removing the Primary Drive]
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 ====== Removing the Primary Drive ====== ====== Removing the Primary Drive ======
 +91 and later models. \\
 +See also [[techtalk:​ref:​tools139|Replacing Stator Magnets]] in the tools section of the Sportsterpedia. \\
 +
 +Loosen the nuts / bolts holding the engine sprocket and clutch basket on. \\
 +The engine sprocket has right hand threads and the clutch basket has left hand threads. \\
 +A reversible impact wrench has been used successfully to remove both the engine sprocket and the clutch basket nut. \\
 +However, it's been debatable whether you can accurately install them back to proper torque without using a torque wrench instead. \\
 +Whichever way you remove them, use regular six-sided sockets. \\
 +They are less likely to slip and round off the edges of the nuts. Impact-type sockets are likely too thick to fit. \\
 +
 +{{:​techtalk:​ref:​tools:​engine_sprocket_removal_-_installation_by_tigercreek.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by tigercreek of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1823130)) {{:​techtalk:​ref:​tools:​clutch_nut_removal_by_tigercreek.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by tigercreek of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1823130)) \\
 +
 +Normally when loosening or tightening these nuts, you will need to **lock the hub & sprocket** - Do not wedge the chain. \\
 +You can buy a primary locking tool (bar) or use a closed 4" BRASS hinge as a wedge. Place the wedge so as not to put pressure on the shifter shaft \\
 +There are also several 4 and 5 speed [[techtalk:​ref:​tools116#​engine_and_clutch_sprocket_locking_tools|primary locking tool examples]] in the tool section. \\
 +A closed 4" BRASS hinge also works well to lock the sprockets and then you can use a pull bar and sockets / socket wrench. \\
 +
 +{{techtalk:​ref:​tools:​primary-brasshinge-lock.jpg?​300|}} ((photo by Scuba10jdl of the XLFORUM ​ http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=53268)) \\
 +
 +The threads should have previously been assembled with red Loctite. \\
 +Using a propane torch (on the nut or bolt only) will heat up and melt / soften the Loctite somewhat to make removal easier. \\
 +Remove both fasteners holding them on before attempting to remove either. \\
 +Big socket wrenches or pullbars give you a lot more leverage to make removing the fasteners less strenuous. \\
 +
 +**Note**: \\
 +The engine sprocket has right hand threads (lefty loosy-righty tighty) \\
 +The clutch basket has left hand threads (lefty tighty-righty loosy) \\
 +
 +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​engmech:​removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_1_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​engmech:​removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_2_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\
 +
 +The engine sprocket and clutch hub should be removed as one unit. \\
 +Both have to come out together to some point since the chain will tighten and neither will budge at that point. \\
 +Once they are both moved out far enough, you may be able to get one or the other to come off without the other. \\
 +Once the sprocket and clutch basket is removed, you can gain access to the mounting screws for the stator. \\
 +
 +You'd think both should slide off at this point. \\
 +However, the magnets on the engine sprocket are very strong and will keep a good amount of pressure toward the engine until it's moved out so far. \\
 +Pull the clutch basket out as far as possible and then maneuver your fingers both hands under the engine sprocket. \\
 +Rock it side to side while pulling outward. \\
 +Slowly you can rock it out enough to get your fingers under it to move it out far enough to release the force generated by the magnets. \\
 +If the chain gets tight, move the clutch basket out some more and go back to the sprocket. \\
 +DO NOT DROP THE ENGINE SPROCKET. The magnets can crack or break off and that's a different problem. \\
 +
 +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​engmech:​removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_4_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\
 +
 +However they come off is fine as long as they are not dropped. \\
 +
 +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​elec:​replacing_the_stator_on_91-03_pic_5_by_tigercreek.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by tigercreek of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1823130)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​engmech:​removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_3_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​engmech:​removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_5_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\
 +
 +Make sure you already have a place to put them and a clear walking path before removing them from the engine. \\
 +Cover them to keep dirt / debris off them until they are ready to go back on. \\
 +
 +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​engmech:​removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_7_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​engmech:​removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_8_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\
 +
 +Slip the primary cover back on and stuff rags in the openings when not working inside the engine to help keep out dirt / debris. \\
 +
 +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​engmech:​removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_6_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​engmech:​removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_9_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\
 +
  
-91 and later models.