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techtalk:evo:priclutch02 [2018/12/16 00:45]
ixl2relax [Primary Chain Tensioner]
techtalk:evo:priclutch02 [2019/11/14 00:02] (current)
hippysmack [Removing the Primary Drive]
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 |1998-2003 Models|1-1/​8"​ Nut|  190-210ft-lbs ​ |at Rotor Assy|| ::: | |1998-2003 Models|1-1/​8"​ Nut|  190-210ft-lbs ​ |at Rotor Assy|| ::: |
 |2004+ Models|1-1/​8"​ Nut|  240-260ft-lbs* ​ |at Rotor Assy|| ::: | |2004+ Models|1-1/​8"​ Nut|  240-260ft-lbs* ​ |at Rotor Assy|| ::: |
-|**Transmission Main Shaft Nut** (1991-later) ||||||+|**Transmission Main Shaft Nut (Clutch Hub)** (1991-later) ||||||
 |Left-hand Threads!!|1-3/​16"​ Nut|  75ft-lbs ​ |at Clutch Hub||Use only 2 or 3 drops of RED threadlocker\\ on this nut| |Left-hand Threads!!|1-3/​16"​ Nut|  75ft-lbs ​ |at Clutch Hub||Use only 2 or 3 drops of RED threadlocker\\ on this nut|
  
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 \\  ​ \\  ​
-{{:techtalk:evo:priclutch:​primary-brasshinge-lock.jpg?​400|}} ((Scuba10jdl http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=53268))+{{techtalk:ref:tools:​primary-brasshinge-lock.jpg?​400|}} ((Scuba10jdl http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=53268))
  
 \\ \\
  
 ====== Removing the Primary Drive ====== ====== Removing the Primary Drive ======
 +91 and later models. \\
 +See also [[techtalk:​ref:​tools139|Replacing Stator Magnets]] in the tools section of the Sportsterpedia. \\
 +**Note**:
 +Unless noted otherwise, the engine below is a 98 XL1200S that has been upgraded to 1250 with a Buell XB crankshaft and respective engine sprocket. \\
 +
 +Loosen the nuts / bolts holding the engine sprocket and clutch basket on. \\
 +The engine sprocket has right hand threads and the clutch basket has left hand threads. \\
 +A reversible impact wrench has been used successfully to remove both the engine sprocket and the clutch basket nut. \\
 +However, it's been debatable whether you can accurately install them back to proper torque without using a torque wrench instead. \\
 +Whichever way you remove them, use regular six-sided sockets. \\
 +They are less likely to slip and round off the edges of the nuts. Impact-type sockets are likely too thick to fit. \\
 +
 +{{:​techtalk:​ref:​tools:​engine_sprocket_removal_-_installation_by_tigercreek.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by tigercreek of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1823130)) {{:​techtalk:​ref:​tools:​clutch_nut_removal_by_tigercreek.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by tigercreek of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1823130)) \\
 +
 +Normally when loosening or tightening these nuts, you will need to **lock the hub & sprocket** - Do not wedge the chain. \\
 +You can buy a primary locking tool (bar) or use a closed 4" BRASS hinge as a wedge. Place the wedge so as not to put pressure on the shifter shaft \\
 +There are also several 4 and 5 speed [[techtalk:​ref:​tools116#​engine_and_clutch_sprocket_locking_tools|primary locking tool examples]] in the tool section. \\
 +A closed 4" BRASS hinge also works well to lock the sprockets and then you can use a pull bar and sockets / socket wrench. \\
 +
 +{{techtalk:​ref:​tools:​primary-brasshinge-lock.jpg?​300|}} ((photo by Scuba10jdl of the XLFORUM ​ http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=53268)) \\
 +
 +The threads should have previously been assembled with red Loctite. \\
 +Using a propane torch (on the nut or bolt only) will heat up and melt / soften the Loctite somewhat to make removal easier. \\
 +Remove both fasteners holding them on before attempting to remove either. \\
 +Big socket wrenches or pullbars give you a lot more leverage to make removing the fasteners less strenuous. \\
 +
 +**Note**: \\
 +The engine sprocket has right hand threads (lefty loosy-righty tighty) \\
 +The clutch basket has left hand threads (lefty tighty-righty loosy) \\
 +
 +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​priclutch:​removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_1_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​priclutch:​removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_2_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\
 +
 +The engine sprocket and clutch hub should be removed as one unit. \\
 +Both have to come out together to some point since the chain will tighten and neither will budge at that point. \\
 +Once they are both moved out far enough, you may be able to get one or the other to come off without the other. \\
 +Once the sprocket and clutch basket is removed, you can gain access to the mounting screws for the stator. \\
 +
 +You'd think both should slide off at this point. \\
 +However, the magnets on the engine sprocket are very strong and will keep a good amount of pressure toward the engine until it's moved out so far. \\
 +Pull the clutch basket out as far as possible and then maneuver your fingers both hands under the engine sprocket. \\
 +Rock it side to side while pulling outward. \\
 +Slowly you can rock it out enough to get your fingers under it to move it out far enough to release the force generated by the magnets. \\
 +If the chain gets tight, move the clutch basket out some more and go back to the sprocket. \\
 +DO NOT DROP THE ENGINE SPROCKET. The magnets can crack or break off and that's a different problem. \\
 +
 +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​priclutch:​removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_4_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\
 +
 +However they come off is fine as long as they are not dropped. \\
 +
 +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​elec:​replacing_the_stator_on_91-03_pic_5_by_tigercreek.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by tigercreek of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1823130)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​priclutch:​removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_3_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​priclutch:​removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_5_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\
 +
 +Make sure you already have a place to put them and a clear walking path before removing them from the engine. \\
 +Cover them to keep dirt / debris off them until they are ready to go back on. \\
 +
 +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​priclutch:​removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_7_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​priclutch:​removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_8_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\
 +
 +Slip the primary cover back on and stuff rags in the openings when not working inside the engine to help keep out dirt / debris. \\
 +
 +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​priclutch:​removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_6_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​priclutch:​removing_engine_sprocket_and_clutch_hub_9_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\
 +
  
-91 and later models. 
  
-  * After you've removed both nuts, first pull the clutch out about halfway and then use 2 hands to pull firmly on the rotor. \\ The magnets on the rotor are very strong. Once you get past the magnet resistance it will come of quite easily. ((NRHS Sales of the XLFROUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1950059)). 
  
-|{{:​techtalk:​evo:​priclutch:​2006_primary_sprockets_by_bigtex.jpg?​direct&​400|}}| 
-|  2006 primary sprockets ((photo by BigTex of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1950059)) ​ | 
  
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