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techtalk:evo:susp01d [2017/09/14 01:19] ixl2relax |
techtalk:evo:susp01d [2024/01/06 05:40] (current) hippysmack |
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| ===== 1200S Fork Rebuild & Hyperpro Spring Fitment ===== | ===== 1200S Fork Rebuild & Hyperpro Spring Fitment ===== | ||
| - | Article and Pictures by steelworker ((http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=744608)) | + | Article and Pictures by steelworker ((https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-suspension-frame-forks-handlebars-fuel-tank-oil-tank-fenders/91392-1200s-fork-rebuild-hyperpro-spring-fitment-with-photo-goodness?t=744608)) |
| * The 1200S forks seem to be somewhat sought after, as the only fully adjustable forks ever fitted to a sporty in these year models. They are pretty good, but I always thought they could be better (a bit harsh over smaller bumps, and a lot of dive under hard braking), so I bought a set of Hyperpro progressive springs. The fitment will follow the same procedure as a full strip and overhaul, | * The 1200S forks seem to be somewhat sought after, as the only fully adjustable forks ever fitted to a sporty in these year models. They are pretty good, but I always thought they could be better (a bit harsh over smaller bumps, and a lot of dive under hard braking), so I bought a set of Hyperpro progressive springs. The fitment will follow the same procedure as a full strip and overhaul, | ||
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| === PART 1: The Parts === | === PART 1: The Parts === | ||
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| |The kit from Hyperpro comes with 2 springs, a tiny \\ pot of magic Hyperpro grease, a bottle of 2.5 weight \\ (very light!!!) fork oil, and a glossy booklet of fitting \\ instructions and adjustment procedures. \\ {{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_1_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|The fitting instructions have a label on the front with \\ specific settings for the relevant bike. \\ \\ \\ {{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_2_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|Since the forks were to be stripped out, and in \\ particular because the Hyperpro fork oil is so light, I \\ thought it prudent to fit new fork seals and dust seals. \\ I also bought an O-ring kit for each fork leg. \\ {{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_3_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |The kit from Hyperpro comes with 2 springs, a tiny \\ pot of magic Hyperpro grease, a bottle of 2.5 weight \\ (very light!!!) fork oil, and a glossy booklet of fitting \\ instructions and adjustment procedures. \\ {{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_1_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|The fitting instructions have a label on the front with \\ specific settings for the relevant bike. \\ \\ \\ {{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_2_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|Since the forks were to be stripped out, and in \\ particular because the Hyperpro fork oil is so light, I \\ thought it prudent to fit new fork seals and dust seals. \\ I also bought an O-ring kit for each fork leg. \\ {{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_3_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
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| |On the light end, spacing is: \\ Hyperpro 5mm; Stock 8.5mm. \\ {{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_7_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |On the light end, spacing is: \\ Hyperpro 5mm; Stock 8.5mm. \\ {{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_7_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
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| === Part 2: Special Tools You'll Need === | === Part 2: Special Tools You'll Need === | ||
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| * Firstly, a fork spring compressor, and a slotted plate (Lower Left Pic)to retain the spring while you remove the top nut and preload adjuster. This homemade compressor is made from 50mm diameter pipe (this is 2.5mm wall thickness, but thicker would be better), 30mm long, drilled and tapped to take a couple of M6 bolts. The slot cut out of the wall is approx. 28mm across. A thicker wall and larger diameter bolts would be better, but this tool did the job admirably. Wear leather gloves when using the tool to prevent pinching that particularly sensitive piece of flesh between your thumb and forefinger! | * Firstly, a fork spring compressor, and a slotted plate (Lower Left Pic)to retain the spring while you remove the top nut and preload adjuster. This homemade compressor is made from 50mm diameter pipe (this is 2.5mm wall thickness, but thicker would be better), 30mm long, drilled and tapped to take a couple of M6 bolts. The slot cut out of the wall is approx. 28mm across. A thicker wall and larger diameter bolts would be better, but this tool did the job admirably. Wear leather gloves when using the tool to prevent pinching that particularly sensitive piece of flesh between your thumb and forefinger! | ||
| * The slotted plate is 55mm x 35mm, with a 12mm wide x 33mm slot. For the sporty, a slighty narrower slot would be better / safer. It has to fit around a 10mm rod, so make it as close to 10mm as possible. | * The slotted plate is 55mm x 35mm, with a 12mm wide x 33mm slot. For the sporty, a slighty narrower slot would be better / safer. It has to fit around a 10mm rod, so make it as close to 10mm as possible. | ||
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| * The only other special tool you'll need is a fork oil level dipstick. We made one out of a gigantic zip tie. From the underside of the head, mark the tie at the recommended oil level (150mm for Hyperpro; 144mm Stock), then trim the tie about 100mm below the mark. This will enable you to slowly add oil and see when the level is approaching the mark. We looped a smaller zip tie through the head of the "dipstick" to prevent any "Oh , where did that go?" moments further down the line. | * The only other special tool you'll need is a fork oil level dipstick. We made one out of a gigantic zip tie. From the underside of the head, mark the tie at the recommended oil level (150mm for Hyperpro; 144mm Stock), then trim the tie about 100mm below the mark. This will enable you to slowly add oil and see when the level is approaching the mark. We looped a smaller zip tie through the head of the "dipstick" to prevent any "Oh , where did that go?" moments further down the line. | ||
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| {{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_9_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&400|}} | {{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_9_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&400|}} | ||
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| * Apart from these expensive special tools, the only other oddity you're likely to need is a long 8mm allen socket for the fork bottom screw (the one which bolts the damper rod to the bottom of the fork slider). Or do as we did, and use a cut down old 8mm allen key and use with an 8mm socket. | * Apart from these expensive special tools, the only other oddity you're likely to need is a long 8mm allen socket for the fork bottom screw (the one which bolts the damper rod to the bottom of the fork slider). Or do as we did, and use a cut down old 8mm allen key and use with an 8mm socket. | ||
| * A copy of the factory manual is invaluable when doing anything like this. Apart from the illustrations and instructions, it gives torque settings for a number of items - top nut to damper rod, top nut to stanchion, and bottom damper bolt. | * A copy of the factory manual is invaluable when doing anything like this. Apart from the illustrations and instructions, it gives torque settings for a number of items - top nut to damper rod, top nut to stanchion, and bottom damper bolt. | ||
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| === Part 3: Remove The Forks === | === Part 3: Remove The Forks === | ||
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| * First, loosen the front brake caliper bolts and remove the front fender. Loosen the front axle nut, and the pinch bolt on the other side. | * First, loosen the front brake caliper bolts and remove the front fender. Loosen the front axle nut, and the pinch bolt on the other side. | ||
| * Now we have to get the bike off the deck. If you have a bike lift, that's fine. I don't, so a little trick is called for, as taught me by my mate Sparkin': | * Now we have to get the bike off the deck. If you have a bike lift, that's fine. I don't, so a little trick is called for, as taught me by my mate Sparkin': | ||
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| |You can now crack the top nut. I had a socket that \\ fit, but a ring spanner (or even an adjustable wrench) \\ would do the job. Just loosen it - do not remove it \\ fully yet.| | |You can now crack the top nut. I had a socket that \\ fit, but a ring spanner (or even an adjustable wrench) \\ would do the job. Just loosen it - do not remove it \\ fully yet.| | ||
| |{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_13_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_13_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
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| * With the fork still supported, now is a good time to crack the bolt in the bottom of the forks (the one you cut down the 8mm allen key to fit). It has a very shallow head, so be sure you have the allen key pushed well into it to avoid rounding it off and suffering the pain that would surely follow. | * With the fork still supported, now is a good time to crack the bolt in the bottom of the forks (the one you cut down the 8mm allen key to fit). It has a very shallow head, so be sure you have the allen key pushed well into it to avoid rounding it off and suffering the pain that would surely follow. | ||
| * You can now loosen the bottom yoke pinch bolt and drop the stanchion out and put it to one side. | * You can now loosen the bottom yoke pinch bolt and drop the stanchion out and put it to one side. | ||
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| === Part 4: Dismantle The Forks === | === Part 4: Dismantle The Forks === | ||
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| * It's best to do this one leg at a time to keep down confusion | * It's best to do this one leg at a time to keep down confusion | ||
| * Before you start, back off all the adjusters (preload, compression and rebound) to their minimum settings. | * Before you start, back off all the adjusters (preload, compression and rebound) to their minimum settings. | ||
| * Now the stanchion is off the bike, you can fully undo the top nut. For those with experience of fork top nuts, under massive spring pressure, stripping the last few threads as they are propelled upwards to embed themselves in your forehead or garage roof, you're in for a pleasant surprise; because this doesn't happen with 1200S forks! As you're undoing the nut, support the stanchion, which will now drop down into the fork slider, revealing the rebound adjuster assembly and spring. | * Now the stanchion is off the bike, you can fully undo the top nut. For those with experience of fork top nuts, under massive spring pressure, stripping the last few threads as they are propelled upwards to embed themselves in your forehead or garage roof, you're in for a pleasant surprise; because this doesn't happen with 1200S forks! As you're undoing the nut, support the stanchion, which will now drop down into the fork slider, revealing the rebound adjuster assembly and spring. | ||
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| |Note that the holes in the spring spacer are towards \\ the bottom of the spacer. Remember this when \\ re-assembling. The factory manual also stipulates \\ that the "burred" side of the pressed washers either \\ side of the spring spacer should be towards the \\ spacer when reassembling.|At this stage, if you plan to change the oil without \\ further dismantling, (referring to an article from the \\ old sportster.org website). Basically, you have to \\ tip the fork, pouring the oil into a measuring \\ container, pump the fork a few times to empty the \\ damper tube, pour again and repeat until you've \\ emptied it; then refill with the same quantity of clean oil.| | |Note that the holes in the spring spacer are towards \\ the bottom of the spacer. Remember this when \\ re-assembling. The factory manual also stipulates \\ that the "burred" side of the pressed washers either \\ side of the spring spacer should be towards the \\ spacer when reassembling.|At this stage, if you plan to change the oil without \\ further dismantling, (referring to an article from the \\ old sportster.org website). Basically, you have to \\ tip the fork, pouring the oil into a measuring \\ container, pump the fork a few times to empty the \\ damper tube, pour again and repeat until you've \\ emptied it; then refill with the same quantity of clean oil.| | ||
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| |{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_16_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_16a_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_17_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_16_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_16a_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_17_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| | | |Steadying the damper with a 17mm spanner on the \\ flats just above the steel nut, unscrew the top nut \\ from the damper and pull it free from the top of the \\ forks. There'll be a bit of resistance as the preload \\ adjuster has an internal O ring to seal against the damper.| | | | |Steadying the damper with a 17mm spanner on the \\ flats just above the steel nut, unscrew the top nut \\ from the damper and pull it free from the top of the \\ forks. There'll be a bit of resistance as the preload \\ adjuster has an internal O ring to seal against the damper.| | ||
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| * Now we have to use the spring compressor again. Note that the "handles" should be only just inside the holes - too far and they will foul the damper assembly as you release spring pressure. It helps if you can turn the spring space so the holes line up with the flats on the damper above, to give a bit more clearance. | * Now we have to use the spring compressor again. Note that the "handles" should be only just inside the holes - too far and they will foul the damper assembly as you release spring pressure. It helps if you can turn the spring space so the holes line up with the flats on the damper above, to give a bit more clearance. | ||
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| |The final part to remove is the compression adjuster \\ from the bottom of the slider. First slacken it right off \\ (anti-clockwise), then remove using a 12mm spanner \\ on the flats.|This is what it looks like.|And the hole it came out of.| | |The final part to remove is the compression adjuster \\ from the bottom of the slider. First slacken it right off \\ (anti-clockwise), then remove using a 12mm spanner \\ on the flats.|This is what it looks like.|And the hole it came out of.| | ||
| |{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_26_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_27_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_28_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_26_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_27_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_28_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
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| === Part 5: Replace the O-Rings === | === Part 5: Replace the O-Rings === | ||
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| |Pull the preload adjuster out of the top nut.||To reveal...Replace the large diameter O rings on \\ the outside of the preload adjuster and top nut.| | |Pull the preload adjuster out of the top nut.||To reveal...Replace the large diameter O rings on \\ the outside of the preload adjuster and top nut.| | ||
| |{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_29_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_30_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_31_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_29_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_30_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_31_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
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| |As you turn the adjuster knob, the inner threaded \\ portion extends the pin to gradually block the oil hole \\ in the fork leg.|Replace the O ring on the adjuster, and make sure \\ the adjuster is in the fully open position before \\ screwing it back into the fork leg.|After it's in place, check that you have the full range \\ of adjustment. There should be 13 positions / 12 click \\ stops between softest and hardest positions.| | |As you turn the adjuster knob, the inner threaded \\ portion extends the pin to gradually block the oil hole \\ in the fork leg.|Replace the O ring on the adjuster, and make sure \\ the adjuster is in the fully open position before \\ screwing it back into the fork leg.|After it's in place, check that you have the full range \\ of adjustment. There should be 13 positions / 12 click \\ stops between softest and hardest positions.| | ||
| |{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_34_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_35_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_36_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_34_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_35_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_36_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
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| === Part 6: Reassemble Fork Tube === | === Part 6: Reassemble Fork Tube === | ||
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| |We held the fork slider steady by clamping one of the \\ caliper bosses in a vice. Do not clamp the main body \\ of the slider tube, or you'll distort it. Coat the stanchion \\ in fork oil and slide it (complete with bottom bush) into \\ the fork slider, then slip the top bush down over the \\ slider. Position the opening in the guide bushing to \\ one side, NOT to the front or rear.|If you have a factory fork seal installer (a tubular slide \\ hammer), fit the spacer next and use the installer to \\ drive the top bush into place. We didn't have one, so \\ we used the time-honoured method of gently \\ tapping around the perimeter of the bush with a \\ screwdriver. It goes in fairly easily, with only light \\ taps required.|Next, fit the spacer.| | |We held the fork slider steady by clamping one of the \\ caliper bosses in a vice. Do not clamp the main body \\ of the slider tube, or you'll distort it. Coat the stanchion \\ in fork oil and slide it (complete with bottom bush) into \\ the fork slider, then slip the top bush down over the \\ slider. Position the opening in the guide bushing to \\ one side, NOT to the front or rear.|If you have a factory fork seal installer (a tubular slide \\ hammer), fit the spacer next and use the installer to \\ drive the top bush into place. We didn't have one, so \\ we used the time-honoured method of gently \\ tapping around the perimeter of the bush with a \\ screwdriver. It goes in fairly easily, with only light \\ taps required.|Next, fit the spacer.| | ||
| |{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_37_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_38_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_39_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_37_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_38_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_39_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
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| |Ensure it's fully seated in its groove.|Fit the dust cover.|Finally, fit the chrome cover.Install the damper rod \\ into the fork tube, and the (banjo) bolt through \\ the bottom of the fork leg (with a new 10mm copper \\ washer).| | |Ensure it's fully seated in its groove.|Fit the dust cover.|Finally, fit the chrome cover.Install the damper rod \\ into the fork tube, and the (banjo) bolt through \\ the bottom of the fork leg (with a new 10mm copper \\ washer).| | ||
| |{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_43_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_44_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_45_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_43_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_44_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:susp:s_model_fork_rebuild_45_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
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| * There is no way to hold the damper tube in place as you tighten the bolt (20-29 ft-lbs), which is not a great thing. The bolt in one of my fork legs did torque to 25 ft-lbs, but the most we could get on the other one was about 10ft-lbs before the damper tube started spinning (even after fitting the spring and compressing the fork to put some pressure on it). | * There is no way to hold the damper tube in place as you tighten the bolt (20-29 ft-lbs), which is not a great thing. The bolt in one of my fork legs did torque to 25 ft-lbs, but the most we could get on the other one was about 10ft-lbs before the damper tube started spinning (even after fitting the spring and compressing the fork to put some pressure on it). | ||
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| * Slide the spring spacer, with a washer either side of it, over the damper tube. Whilst you hold the damper rod up, get your assistant to compress the spring, until you can again fit the slotted plate beneath the steel lock nut under the damper assembly. | * Slide the spring spacer, with a washer either side of it, over the damper tube. Whilst you hold the damper rod up, get your assistant to compress the spring, until you can again fit the slotted plate beneath the steel lock nut under the damper assembly. | ||
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| |Then screw the top nut / preload adjuster assembly \\ onto the top of the damper rod. We did this all in one, \\ but the FSM says to install the top nut first, then \\ install the preload adjuster assembly after the spring \\ pressure is released (which makes more sense).|With a 17mm spanner on the flats of the rebound \\ adjuster body, tighten the top nut.| | |Then screw the top nut / preload adjuster assembly \\ onto the top of the damper rod. We did this all in one, \\ but the FSM says to install the top nut first, then \\ install the preload adjuster assembly after the spring \\ pressure is released (which makes more sense).|With a 17mm spanner on the flats of the rebound \\ adjuster body, tighten the top nut.| | ||
