Differences

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--- techtalk:ih:carb01 [2019/09/14 01:34]
hippysmack [The Linkert Model DC]
+++ techtalk:ih:carb01 [2019/09/16 02:26]
hippysmack [The Linkert Model DC]
@@ Line 8: / Line 8: @@
 ====== FACTORY CARBURETORS ======
-===== Links to Carb Diagrams and Parts =====
-  * [[http://www.linkertcarbs.com/| Linkert Carbs.com]]
-  * [[https://www.demonscycle.com/manuals_diagrams|Demons Cycle website of useful manuals]]
-  * [[techtalk:ih:carb01#parts_and_services_for_your_tillotson_carb|Tillotson exploded parts view and service manual]]
-===== Linkert Model M and DC Carbs (1965 and Earlier) =====
+===== Linkert Model M and DC Carbs (1957-1965) =====
 ==== Sub Documents ====
   * [[techtalk:ih:carb01a|Linkert Carb Identification]]
+  * [[techtalk:ih:carb01b|Rebuilding the Linkert Carb]]
+  * [[techtalk:ih:carb01c|Linkert Carb Functions, Adjustments, Tuning]].
   * Three different carburator families were used on the K and Sportsters through 1969. Three models of the venerable Linkert Model M carbs were used on K and KH. Sportsters used various incarnations of the Linkert DC and M carbs from 1957 through 1965. ((http://www.harleykmodel.com/technical/carbs/index.html))
@@ Line 54: / Line 54: @@
     * Adjustable high and low speed nozzles, and a fixed jet.
+All except DC2 are the same body. NOS bodies actually were shipped blank and the dealer stamped the number needed on them. ((http://linkertcarbs.com/linkert.html)) \\
+If you have a larger bore body using a 9X throttle disc, this is from the modification bulletin Harley put out on the DC carbs many years ago. \\
+Differences on all except the DC2 were in jet sizes, needle & seats, bowl lettering, etc, all minor. \\
+They did not make a DC3, DC5, DC8, DC9, or DC11. ("real" DC11 "race" carbs were modified versions of other DC models as per the race mod bulletin Harley put out) \\
+Here is a link to that drawing at [[http://linkertcarbs.com/dc%20carb%20modification.html|Into The Wilderness Trading]].
+(whether by Harley themselves for the XLR or by a particular dealer) \\
+Linkert did not make DC11 carbs as such, and you will also find these mods on every model out there except DC2. \\
+A few are well done and re-stamped as DC11 ( probably by Harley for racers). Some very poor quality backyard jobs with the idle ports ruined, so look them over carefully. \\
-^Carb Model^HD Bike Used On^Idle Bleed^Idle Tube Feed^Fixed Jet^Throttle Disc^Turns (high speed setting)^Turns (idle speed setting)^
+^Sportster \\ Carb Model^Idle Bleed^Idle Tube \\ Feed^Fixed Jet^Throttle \\ Disc^High \\ Speed \\ Setting^Idle Speed \\ Setting^
-|(27155-57) was the first Sportster carburetor then replaced with (27155-57A) both introduced for 1957-1959 Sportsters ((1952-1959 HD Spare Parts Catalog pg 16))||||||||
+|**27155-57** ((1952-1957 HD Spare Parts Catalog pg 15 for all Sportster and K models)) **1957-1958 Sportster**|||||||
-|DC-1|1957-1958 Sportster XL Early Style ((http://www.classic-motorcycle-build.com/linkert-dc-carb.html))|#53 .0595|#69 .0293|#9 .067|9A ((thefrenchowl from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=691253&highlight=Linkert&page=2)) | 3/4" to 1-1/4" | 3/4" to 1"  ((HD 1959-1964 Sportster FSM))|
+|DC-1 ((HD TSB #389 dated 5-1-57)) \\ Standard \\ 1957 (only)|#53 .0595|#69 .0293|#9 .067|9A ((thefrenchowl from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=691253&highlight=Linkert&page=2)) | 3/4" to 1-1/4" | 3/4" to 1"  ((HD 1959-1964 Sportster FSM))|
-|DC-1L|1959-1960 Sportster XL ((http://www.classic-motorcycle-build.com/linkert-dc-carb.html)) |#53 .0595|#69 .0293|#4 .0625|9A ((thefrenchowl from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=691253&highlight=Linkert&page=2)) | 3/4" to 1-1/4" | 1" to 1-1/4" ((HD 1959-1964 Sportster FSM))|
+|**27155-57A** ((1952-1959 HD Spare Parts Catalog pg 16 for all Sportster and K models)) **1959-1960 Sportster**|||||||
-|DC-1M|1959-1960 Sportster XL ((http://www.classic-motorcycle-build.com/linkert-dc-carb.html))|#53 .0595|#69 .0293|#1 .052|9A ((thefrenchowl from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=691253&highlight=Linkert&page=2)) | 3/4" to 1-1/4" | 1" ((HD 1959-1964 Sportster FSM))|
+|DC-1L ((http://www.classic-motorcycle-build.com/linkert-dc-carb.html)) \\ Standard \\ 1958-1960|#53 .0595|#69 .0293|#4 .0625|9A ((thefrenchowl from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=691253&highlight=Linkert&page=2)) | 3/4" to 1-1/4" | 1" to 1-1/4" ((HD 1959-1964 Sportster FSM))|
-|DC-2|1959-65 Servicar (smaller venturi, opposite float bowl)((http://www.classic-motorcycle-build.com/linkert-dc-carb.html))|#51 .067|#70 .028|#20 .0452|12 ((thefrenchowl from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=691253&highlight=Linkert&page=2)) | 3/4" to 1-1/4" | 1" to 1-1/4" ((HD 1959-1964 Sportster FSM))|
+|DC-1M ((HD TSB #389 dated 5-1-57)) \\ Miltary XLA|#53 .0595|#69 .0293|#1 .052|9A ((thefrenchowl from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=691253&highlight=Linkert&page=2)) | 3/4" to 1-1/4" | 1" ((HD 1959-1964 Sportster FSM))|
-|DC-6|1961 Sportster XLH and XLCH ((http://www.classic-motorcycle-build.com/linkert-dc-carb.html))|#53 .0595|#69 .0293|#4 .0625|9A ((thefrenchowl from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=691253&highlight=Linkert&page=2)) |
+|**27155-57B** ((1959-1961 HD Spare Parts Catalog Supplement for all Sportster and K models)) **1961-1965 Sportster**|||||||
-|DC-7|1966 Big-Twin FL and FLH (larger venturi) ((http://www.classic-motorcycle-build.com/linkert-dc-carb.html))|#53 .0595|#69 .0293|    .070|9A ((thefrenchowl from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=691253&highlight=Linkert&page=2))|
+|DC-6 ((http://www.classic-motorcycle-build.com/linkert-dc-carb.html)) \\ Standard \\ 1961|#53 .0595|#69 .0293|#4 .0625|9A ((thefrenchowl from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=691253&highlight=Linkert&page=2)) |
-|DC-10|1962 and mid-63 Sportster XLH and XLCH ((http://www.classic-motorcycle-build.com/linkert-dc-carb.html))|#53 .0595|#69 .0293|#4 .0625|9A ((thefrenchowl from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=691253&highlight=Linkert&page=2))| 3/4" to 1-1/4" | 1" to 1-1/4" ((HD 1959-1964 Sportster FSM))|
+|DC-10 ((http://www.classic-motorcycle-build.com/linkert-dc-carb.html)) \\ Standard \\ 1962-E1963|#53 .0595|#69 .0293|#4 .0625|9A ((thefrenchowl from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=691253&highlight=Linkert&page=2))| 3/4" to 1-1/4" | 1" to 1-1/4" ((HD 1959-1964 Sportster FSM))|
-|DC-12|1966 Big-Twin FL and FLH \\ mid-1963 1964 1965 Sportster XLH and XLCH ((http://www.classic-motorcycle-build.com/linkert-dc-carb.html))|#53 .0595|#69 .0293|#4 .0625|9A ((thefrenchowl from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?=691253&highlight=Linkert&page=2))|
+|DC-12 ((http://www.classic-motorcycle-build.com/linkert-dc-carb.html)) \\ Standard \\ L1963-1965|#53 .0595|#69 .0293|#4 .0625|9A ((thefrenchowl from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?=691253&highlight=Linkert&page=2))|
-|DC1: 1957 thru 1960 Sportster, DC6: 1961 Sportster only, DC7: 1966 FL's no Sportster, DC10: 1962 thru 1963 Sportster, DC12: 1963 thru 1965 Sportster (Ferrous Head of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=691253&page=2)
+^Other HD Carb Model^Idle Bleed^Idle Tube \\ Feed^Fixed Jet^Throttle \\ Disc^High \\ Speed \\ Setting^Idle Speed \\ Setting^
+|DC-2 ((http://www.classic-motorcycle-build.com/linkert-dc-carb.html)) \\ 1959-65 Servicar \\ (smaller venturi, opposite float bowl)|#51 .067|#70 .028|#20 .0452|12 ((thefrenchowl from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=691253&highlight=Linkert&page=2)) | 3/4" to 1-1/4" | 1" to 1-1/4" ((HD 1959-1964 Sportster FSM))|
+|DC-7 ((http://www.classic-motorcycle-build.com/linkert-dc-carb.html)) \\ 1966 Big-Twin FL and FLH \\ (larger venturi)|#53 .0595|#69 .0293|    .070|9A ((thefrenchowl from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=691253&highlight=Linkert&page=2))|
+|DC-12 ((http://www.classic-motorcycle-build.com/linkert-dc-carb.html)) \\ 1966 Big-Twin FL and FLH|#53 .0595|#69 .0293|#4 .0625|9A ((thefrenchowl from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?=691253&highlight=Linkert&page=2))|
 ----
-==== Adjusting the Linkert DC ====
-^Carb Idle Speed^
-|Adjust until engine idles and runs smoothly| ((Clymer Sportster Repair Manual 1959-1985))
-  * A properly adjusted carburetor requires little re-adjustment according to the FSM. It shouldn't be necessary to change the adjuster of the low speed needle more than 1/8 turn or the high speed adjuster more than 1/4 turn richer or leaner to obtain correct mixture for a change in altitude unless there are some worn or obstructed parts to consider.((1959-1969 HD Sportster FSM))
-  * Before attempting to correct faulty engine performance through carb adjustment, eliminate all other possible causes for poor engine performance such as bad spark plugs, poor timing, mal-adjusted tappets, dirty air cleaner, leaking gaskets and poor manifold connections.((1959-1969 HD Sportster FSM))
-  * The fuel/ air mixture for low engine speed is regulated by the low speed needle only. The fuel supply for high speed is regulated by a combination of the adjustable needle and the fixed jet (which dominates the regulation of high speed fuel supply). The high speed needle provides a supplement, to a degree, of the fuel supplied by the fixed jet when it is found that slightly enrichening the mixture improves engine performance. ((1959-1969 HD Sportster FSM))
-<blockquote>
-  * Both, high speed and low speed, needles turn inward (clockwise) for leaner or outward (counterclockwise) for richer mixtures at the respective speeds for which they adjust.
-    * Adjust idle (low speed): Make sure the carb control wire is adjusted so the throttle lever fully closes and opens with handlebar movement.((1959-1969 HD Sportster FSM))
-    * Turn both the high and low needles all the way in (clockwise) to a light seat position but do not close off either too tight as it may damage needle and/ or seat. ((1959-1969 HD Sportster FSM))
-    * Turn low speed needle out app. 1 1/2 turns (in this position, engine will start but low speed idle will probably be too rich).((1959-1969 HD Sportster FSM))
-    * Start the engine, let it reach operating temp, choke off (open) then correct the position of the low speed needle. Turn the low speed needle in (clockwise) 1/8 turn at a time until engine leans out and misses and is inclined to stop. Then, back low speed needle out 1/8 turn at a time (allow a few seconds in between turns to allow engine to adjust) until engine hits regularly with spark advanced, throttle closed and engine running at idle speed. Starting and all around performance will be better with low speed adjustment slightly rich, rather than lean. ((1959-1969 HD Sportster FSM))
-    * Adjust throttle lever stop screw as needed to make engine idle at proper speed with throttle fully closed. Turn screw clockwise for faster or counterclockwise for slower idle speed. Be careful not to idle engine at the slowest possible speed because an extreme low idle position will cause hard starting. Changing the idle speed with the throttle screw may also alter the low speed fuel/ air mixture so remember to go back and check that adjustment and correct if needed using the above method.((1959-1969 HD Sportster FSM))
-    * Turn high speed needle out app. 3/4 turns. Check high speed adjustment by running the  motorcycle on the road at various speeds between 20 mph and max speed with spark fully advanced. Re-adjust high speed needle until optimum performance is achieved. Best all around engine performance can usually be found with the high speed needle set between 3/4 and 1 1/2 turns out (open). ((1959-1969 HD Sportster FSM))
-   </blockquote>
-  * The FSM may be of little use from this point on.
-    * Its trial and error now to find out what works for you. Idle speed is critical in easy starting. Low idle can make bikes difficult to start and too high is uncomfortable at stops. There is a sweet spot in there somewhere that you must find. 1200 rpm is a good speed to begin your fine tuning. ((DR DICK of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=5287605&postcount=31))
-    * When it's warm and it's been off for a minute. I only need to push the kicker through and it starts up. If it's been off for a bit, the first kick without retarding the mag results in a locked up kicker, feeling there is a fuel charge sitting in the combustion chamber. The idle adjustment screw can be backed out as far as I want and it doesn't change much at all. If I go too lean, it will stumble of course. If the idle adj. screw is 1/8th out from stumble as the manual suggests, I have a hard time with starting. ((Zaemo of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=5287605&postcount=31))
-  * The bigger picture regarding these adjustments for this the throttle plate must be: Positioned (milled notch up & facing air cleaner) and registered (even peripheral contact to throttle body at fully closed) correctly.((DR DICK of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=5287605&postcount=31))
-    * Removing the brass screw plug near idle mix screw exposes the idle well. On the side wall of the well you will see a hole that feeds mixture (note that I didn't say fuel) to the idle mix screw. Mixture that enters this hole is regulated by the adjuster screw, and discharged into air stream thru a hole drilled close to intake manifold. This supplies most of the idle mixture.((DR DICK of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=5287605&postcount=31))
-    * Then on floor of the well you will see a series of 4 tiny holes. These are the transition holes. The remainder of idle mixture comes from the 1st (one closest to manifold) transition hole as its open to low manifold pressure. The other 3 are open to the higher atmospheric pressure because they are on the other side of throttle plate at idle. That means lots of air enters the well thru the 3 hi pressure holes. All that air dilutes the fuel into a 'mixture'. Because the idle mix screw adjusts the flow of this mixture a funny thing happens as you richen it. Because the air component is so much less dense than the fuel component the mix screw is less a restriction to the air than to the fuel- its gets to a point where opening it adds more air then it does fuel. In other words it will only get so rich no matter how far you back it out. This is a DC Linkert anomaly because 4 holes spread over a very large throttle plate swing bleed a lot of air into the well on idle. Things change as soon as you begin opening throttle plate. Now the number of transition holes open to low pressure is larger and the number open to atmospheric pressure is less. ie: the air component of the mixture drops. Now the idle mix screw is controlling a more fuel laden mixture. The ratio of air to fuel continuously drops as you open the throttle until the last holes is on downstream of the plate. The mix screw will have a larger effect on low throttle running than idling. You need to set screw where you get good around town manners and then adjust the speed screw to the appropriate speed.((DR DICK of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=5287605&postcount=31))
-  * This is a delicate balancing act that will change as the properties of the air change: temperature, pressure (altitude or barometer), and water content (humidity). The dc is prone to this fickleness due to the large air bleed variation at different throttle plate positions.((DR DICK of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=5287605&postcount=31))
-  * The S&S carbs based on the DC Linkert used only two transition holes in the early years and three later on. Both show a marked improvement in weather stability.((DR DICK of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=5287605&postcount=31))
-  * These carbs are extremely touchy to float level at just off idle throttle positions. Problems show as spitting / coughing on one end of the spectrum to burbiling / stumbling at the other end. Many owners will report how precise you need to be with float levels to get your bike to run as a fine watch.These guys also eventually learn two things:((DR DICK of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1993187&highlight=linkert))
-    - Float levels will rise on their own due to the steel inlet needle wearing the brass seat away. This is a mileage thing-- just like tire and chain wear (steel needle carbs only- linkert, orig earlies and orignal L's). ((DR DICK of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1993187&highlight=linkert))
-    - Secondly and more importantly, these carbs are very susceptible to errant low speed metering as fuel composition, barometric pressure, humidity, and air temperature vary. Trying to hit the sweet spot requires many float adjustments, idle mixture settings, idle speed settings and road tests. To do away with that wasted time and aggravation, I fit all my side bowl carbs with an externally adjustable float level. Now I can change float level on a whim.((DR DICK of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1993187&highlight=linkert))
-==== Linkert DC Rebuilding ====
-  * A gasket kit (which includes the bowl and body gaskets, seals, and an o-ring for the bowl vent tube instead of a gasket) and some carburetor cleaner is all you need to rebuild a Linkert DC carb. No special tools are required.   All DC carbs use the same gaskets and seals. If needed, a larger gasket set is available, and includes the gaskets and seals, plus an assortment of small springs and screws.  ((http://www.classic-motorcycle-build.com/linkert-dc-carb.html))
-|Carb Assembly is HD Part Number: 27155-57B((1959-1969 HD Sportster FSM))||||
-^Model \\ (marked on carb)|Idle Port Hole \\ Drill Sizes^Model \\ (marked on carb)|High Speed Hole \\ Drill Sizes|
-|DC-1, 1L, 1M, 10 \\ DC-2|#70 (0.028 in) \\ #56 (0.0465 in)|DC-1, 1L, 1M, 10, 6, 7, 12 \\ DC-2|#55 (0.052 in) \\ #70 (0.028 in)|
 ===== Tillotson HD Carb (1966-1971) =====
@@ Line 114: / Line 87: @@
   * [[techtalk:ih:carb01e|Tillotson Carb Identification]]
+  * [[techtalk:ih:carb01f|Rebuilding the Tillotson Carb]]
   * [[techtalk:ih:carb01g|Tillotson Carb Functions, Adjustments, Tuning]]. \\
@@ Line 170: / Line 144: @@
-===== Parts and Services for your Tillotson Carb =====
-Original P/N for a Sporty Tillotson repair parts kit 27147-66 ((rivethog of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=757993&page=2)) \\
-Original P/N for a Big Twin Tillotson repai parts kit 27137-66 \\
-  * Parts list for Tillotson HD carbs:
-      * http://tillotson.ie/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/HD-Series-1-Parts-List.pdf
-      * http://tillotson.ie/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/HD-Series-2-Parts-List.pdf
-  * Service manual for Tillotson carbs:
-      * http://tillotson.ie/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Tillotson-HD-Series-Carburetor.pdf
-  * Servicing for Tillotson carbs:
-      * Tillotson Company http://tillotson.ie/market/vintage/?filters=product_cat[repair-kits-parts]
-      * EC Carburetors: Specializes in HR, HL and HD carburetors for racing, vintage snowmobiles and Harley-Davidson Motorcycles. http://eccarburetors.com/estore/
-|{{techtalk:ih:carb:tillotson_carb_repair_kit_by_the_doctor71_of_the_xlforum.jpg?direct&300|}}|
-|Tillotson Carburetor repair/ refresh kit((Pic courtesy of The Doctor71 of the XLFORUM))|
-----
 ===== Mikuni (XR-750 racing engines only) =====

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