Differences

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--- techtalk:ih:carb01l [2019/09/15 05:28]
hippysmack [Rebuilding the Bendix Carb]
+++ techtalk:ih:carb01l [2019/11/14 05:10]
hippysmack [Setting the float level]
@@ Line 4: / Line 4: @@
 ====== Rebuilding the Bendix Carb ======
 See also in the Sportsterpedia: \\
-  * [[techtalk:ih:carb01#bendix_zenith_i6p12_carb_1972-early_1976|Bendix basic carb information]]
+  * [[techtalk:ih:carb01#bendix_zenith_i6p12_carb_1972-early_1976|Bendix Carb Basic Information]]
   * [[techtalk:ih:carb01k|Bendix Carb Identification]]
   * [[techtalk:ih:carb01m|Bendix Carb Functions, Adjustments, Tuning]]
@@ Line 14: / Line 14: @@
   * Examine all parts for excessive wear, damage, distortion, etc.
   * Cleaning solutions/sprays vary based upon your location, needs, budget, preferences and quality. \\ Dismantle the carb down to the body before soaking. You will be surprised at all the dirt in the bottom of the soaking container. \\ Here are some helpful ideas:
-     * An overnight soak in a solution of Pinesol and water followed up with a good brush down with a toothbrush then rinse and air dry. ((http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/pinesol-really-does-clean-carburetors-amazingly-pics-inside-248810.html))
+     * An overnight soak in a solution of Pinesol and water followed up with a good brush down with a toothbrush then rinse and air dry. ((http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/pinesol-really-does-clean-carburetors-amazingly-pics-inside-248810.html)) \\ See also [[techtalk:ref:tools127#general_cleaning_and_stuck_gaskets|Soaking parts]] in the REF section of the Sportsterpedia.
      * A 20 minute to up to a few days soak in a gallon of Gunk (or other) Carburetor Cleaner that has a basket inside for small parts and lowers in the can with a handle, rinse, air dry, use.
      * Soak it in mineral spirits for a few days. ((Monte03 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=185361))
@@ Line 58: / Line 58: @@
   * Installation: ((HD Service Bulletin #518 dated September 10, 1965 pg OC-189))((1959-1969 HD Sportster FSM)).
     * The plug should be seated  with a flat end punch that is slightly smaller than the diameter of the plug. The plug should be flat and not concaved to assure a tight fit. If leakage is suspected due to a rough or damaged welch plug seat in the casting, apply a small amount of epoxy or suitable sealant to the edges after installing it.
-    * Installation Recommendations from Hubbard Spring [[http://www.hubbardspring.com/install_reco.php?cid=45]]
-  * Some Welch Plug dims: [[http://www.hubbardspring.com/index.php/category/43/cupped-plugs-and-cupped-plugs-pierced-catalog]]
+Links to Welch plug sites: \\
+  * [[https://www.hubbardspring.com/product-category/expansion-plugs/hubbard-expansion-plugs/|M.D. Hubbard Spring Co.]]
 ===== Idle Tube =====
@@ Line 70: / Line 71: @@
 The main jet will straighten some as puts in back in line when it's installed. If it doesn't, replace it or it'll cause problems. \\
 {{:techtalk:ih:carb:bendix_carb_1_by_buskit.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by buskit of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1837358&page=7)) {{:techtalk:ih:carb:bendix_carb_2_by_buskit.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by buskit of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1837358&page=7)) \\
+\\
+A sealed tube replacement can be found here at [[https://www.bikerdirect.com/fuel-air...6-big-twins-xl|Biker Direct]]on the net but it doesn't give the jet size but only the length: 3-1/8". \\
+Part Number: 35-0533, Manufacturer: Bendix \\
+{{:techtalk:ih:carb:bendix_-c-_idle_tube_5_by_dirtyharry68.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by DirtyHarry68 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5776039#post5776039))
 ===== Float =====
@@ Line 84: / Line 90: @@
 Use needle nose pliers to bend the tang up or down as needed to; \\
 (1) allow the float to sit on top of the drill bit (2) at the same time the valve is lightly seated. \\
-**Note**: Very minute adjustments add up to a lot of difference in height. ((DirtyHarry68 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5776039#post5776039)) \\
+**Note**: \\
+Very minute adjustments add up to a lot of difference in height. ((DirtyHarry68 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5776039#post5776039)) \\
+Setting the float with the gasket on or off has been disputed when using the 3/16" drill bit measurement. ((DirtyHarry68 of the XLFORUM  http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5776053#post5776053)) \\
+Some say it makes more sense to take the measurement without the gasket. \\
+Sensible argument A: gaskets vary in thickness and if the gasket is used, will be further compressed. \\
+Sensible argument B: How accurate does it really need to be?
 Carefully guide the cup of the accelerator pump into the pump well. Seat the accelerator pump boot around the top it's pump boss. \\
@@ Line 165: / Line 176: @@
 ===== Accelerator Pump =====
-{{ :techtalk:ih:carb:clearing_the_bendix_accel_pump_by_the_doctor71.jpg?direct&300| }} ((photo by The Doctor71 of the XLFORUM  http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2071854)) \\
+==== Check valve ====
 Check the accelerator pump circuit to make sure it's clear. \\
-If there is a clog, it could be a stopped up nozzle (red circle), check valve (yellow circle) or possibly both. ((The Doctor71 of the XLFORUM  http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2071854)) → \\
+If there is a clog, it could be a stopped up nozzle (red circle), check valve (yellow circle) or possibly both. ((The Doctor71 of the XLFORUM  http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2071854)) \\
 You can try to clear it out by using compressed air (in the reverse flow direction) to attempt to clear the nozzle. \\
 Then try a blow test (aka mouth on the accelerator pump cavity & a finger blocking the nozzle) to verify the proper check valve operation. \\
 If the check valve is mal-functioning, air (air in this test, gas in real life) will feed back into the carb bowl vs going out the nozzle. \\
-\\ \\ \\
+If it be necessary to remove the check valve, that can be done with a pair of needle nose pliers. \\
+The replacement check should be installed with a flat faced drift / punch sized just shy of the OD of the check valve. ((Hippysmack of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2074658)) \\
+Be sure the tool used to install it is bigger then the ID. If not, it can slip down and punch the disc out of the check body (as in the pic to the right below). \\
+If this happens, the check function is lost and the valve assembly has to be replaced. \\
+{{:techtalk:ih:carb:clearing_the_bendix_accel_pump_by_the_doctor71.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by The Doctor71 of the XLFORUM  http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2071854)) {{:techtalk:ih:carb:bendix_bowl_check_valve_by_kingrabbit.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Kingrabbit of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2074658)) \\
+The check valve seals off the main fuel supply between the bowl and the accel pump passage when the pump is actuated. \\
+So if the check isn't working, it'll squirt gas into the bowl instead of the venturi. \\
+To be sure the check valve is working; \\
+You may be able to add gas to the bowl (bowl removed from body), and work the pump shaft by hand to see if it squirts gas into the bowl or the nozzle. \\
+You should also be able to block the nozzle (not the check hole) and Not see any gas shoot up into the bowl but rather out the accel pump shaft housing. \\
+==== Pump diaphragm ====
+{{:techtalk:ih:carb:dirty_bendix_accel_pump_by_bwf347.jpg?direct&300 |}} \\
+Clean and inspect the diaphragm for pinholes, cracks, rips, deformation, gunked up rust or varnish deposits and etc. Replace the diaphragm if necessary. ((photo by Bwf347 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2070935&highlight=accelerator+pump)) Residue from dried ethanol can result in a gunked up diaphragm as it if left long enough to separate from the gasoline. ((Toejam503 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2070935&highlight=accelerator+pump)) \\
+==== Accelerator pump shaft ====
+Inspect the accelerator pump rod for bending. Inspect the rubber boot for cracks / tears. Any dirt that gets past the boot into the accelerator pump passage should be blown out from the side opposite of the nozzle (or check valve will close, making cleaning impossible). \\
 {{ :techtalk:ih:carb:bendix_carb_and_parts_by_schutzhund9.jpg?direct&300| }} \\
@@ Line 180: / Line 211: @@
 You can use most of the parts in this kit but purchase the Harley Part (#27762-71TA). \\
 Aftermarket rebuild kit: \\
 There are 3 holes in the accelerator pump shaft to provide more or less fuel upon acceleration. \\

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