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techtalk:ih:carb01q [2020/05/31 00:11] brianbbs67 [Disassembly] |
techtalk:ih:carb01q [2023/12/29 19:33] hippysmack |
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| ====== Disassembly ====== | ====== Disassembly ====== | ||
| - | * Removing the carb from the bike should be straight forward. First thing when it is out is to check the pilot screw setting. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=185361)) \\ Turn it all the way in until gently seated counting the number of 1/4 turns; then write this number down; then reset it. | + | * Removing the carb from the bike should be straight forward. First thing when it is out is to check the pilot screw setting. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/47937-cleaning-a-carb?t=185361)) \\ Turn it all the way in until gently seated counting the number of 1/4 turns; then write this number down; then reset it. |
| This rig works well to get the carb off to fit the heat block (if applicable) without having to take off the horn and ignition switch brackets. \\ | This rig works well to get the carb off to fit the heat block (if applicable) without having to take off the horn and ignition switch brackets. \\ | ||
| 1/2" deep socket, 3/8" drive, universal joint and 6" extension. \\ | 1/2" deep socket, 3/8" drive, universal joint and 6" extension. \\ | ||
| - | {{:techtalk:ih:carb:keihin_butterfly_carb_7_by_hopper.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=276157&page=3)) | + | {{:techtalk:ih:carb:keihin_butterfly_carb_7_by_hopper.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Hopper of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/55576-how-to-tune-keihin-carbs-links/page3?t=276157&page=3)) |
| * **Pilot screw**: | * **Pilot screw**: | ||
| Line 101: | Line 101: | ||
| Float Valve: \\ | Float Valve: \\ | ||
| The 3-sided valve (left below) 'may' sit cock-eyed in the seat sometimes and cause a leak. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1760294&page=2)) The four sided (right below) valve is 'supposed' to be an improved design. \\ | The 3-sided valve (left below) 'may' sit cock-eyed in the seat sometimes and cause a leak. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1760294&page=2)) The four sided (right below) valve is 'supposed' to be an improved design. \\ | ||
| - | {{:techtalk:ih:carb:float_needles_by_county_fair_-_cropped.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by County Fair of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1760294&page=2)) \\ | + | Also check new float valves for manufacturing errors. The glue holding the rubber on has been known to have spilled onto the rubber causing a bad seat. \\ |
| + | {{:techtalk:ih:carb:float_needles_by_county_fair_-_cropped.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by County Fair of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1760294&page=2)) {{:techtalk:ih:carb:glue_on_inlet_needle_by_flthd31.jpeg?direct&300|}} ((photo by flthd31 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5846205#post5846205)) \\ | ||
| The float needle should just kiss the seat with no extra pressure. Aftermarket float valves have a spring loaded pin under the float tab. So when the valve tip closes onto the seat, you can still push the valve down further. The valve should 'just' close when measuring the float level. Pushing further in from there will not close the valve any further. But it will cause you to set the float level wrong. The valve should be a light seat when measuring. Some aftermarket float needles with the spring loaded pin also have a defective neoprene tip on the other end (which does not seal even when set right). ((Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1526333&highlight=float+level&page=4)) Since the tip on the needle on aftermarket ones don't work well, some would use the old original one (solid pin) to get a better measurement. ((Smerch of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1526333&highlight=float+level&page=4)) Beats assembling the carb only to have it sit there and flood with gas. Also make sure you have the float valve for the correct type of Keihin carb. The aftermarket valves are a little taller. \\ | The float needle should just kiss the seat with no extra pressure. Aftermarket float valves have a spring loaded pin under the float tab. So when the valve tip closes onto the seat, you can still push the valve down further. The valve should 'just' close when measuring the float level. Pushing further in from there will not close the valve any further. But it will cause you to set the float level wrong. The valve should be a light seat when measuring. Some aftermarket float needles with the spring loaded pin also have a defective neoprene tip on the other end (which does not seal even when set right). ((Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1526333&highlight=float+level&page=4)) Since the tip on the needle on aftermarket ones don't work well, some would use the old original one (solid pin) to get a better measurement. ((Smerch of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1526333&highlight=float+level&page=4)) Beats assembling the carb only to have it sit there and flood with gas. Also make sure you have the float valve for the correct type of Keihin carb. The aftermarket valves are a little taller. \\ | ||
