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techtalk:ih:carb01q [2019/10/12 15:32]
hippysmack [Accelerator pump]
techtalk:ih:carb01q [2019/10/16 03:37] (current)
hippysmack [Testing the Accelerator Pump Off the Carb]
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      * You can use acrylic paint thinners for cleaning up carb parts. It melts the fuel varnish right off. ((russzx6 of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=185361))      * You can use acrylic paint thinners for cleaning up carb parts. It melts the fuel varnish right off. ((russzx6 of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=185361))
      * An aerosol spray carb cleaner will also work but may not loosen all of the build up in the jets or orifices in the carb body if they'​re not directly sprayed through. ​      * An aerosol spray carb cleaner will also work but may not loosen all of the build up in the jets or orifices in the carb body if they'​re not directly sprayed through. ​
-  * Blow out all holes, jets and orifices thoroughly with compressed air after cleaning. \\ Revesre ​air flow through each passage to ensure removal of all dirt particles.+  * Blow out all holes, jets and orifices thoroughly with compressed air after cleaning. \\ Reverse ​air flow through each passage to ensure removal of all dirt particles. 
 +  * Blow out the accelerator pump check valves (1 inside the accelerator pump nozzle and 1 inside the accelerator pump housing). \\ You can shake the fuel bowl when it is off the carb. The nozzle check valve and / or check ball should rattle in the bowl housing. \\ If you cant hear it, it's stuck and the accelerator pump will not work. ((81Fe of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1663198&​page=7)) 
 +    * The nozzle check valve is inside the brass spray nozzle. It should be reverse blown due to the nature of it's function. \\ Blowing from the pump nozzle will just shut down flow when the valve closes on it's seat. \\ It is weighted and looks very similar to the float valve except the tapered end is metal. \\ It should move up off it's seat and then lower back down on the seat. 
 +    * The check ball is either inside a passage cast into the carb bowl (from the bowl to the pump) or in the pump housing itself. \\ When this passage gets gummed up, the check ball usually gets stuck closed, hence why the pump does not work. \\ The check ball is rarely considered when rebuilding a carb. \\ It's also very hard to clean. The only way is to blast the passage with carb cleaner and compressed air over and over until it works. \\ Sometimes soaking alone does nothing for freeing up the check ball without blasting it with carb cleaner and air or brake cleaner. 
 + 
 + 
 + 
   * The FSM says to not use wires or drills to clean small holes as this could cause burrs or change the hole sizes. \\ However, done carefully (and only if needed) with smaller wire than the intended hole to clean, this has been an affective way of removing caked varnish. \\ Use at your own risk.   * The FSM says to not use wires or drills to clean small holes as this could cause burrs or change the hole sizes. \\ However, done carefully (and only if needed) with smaller wire than the intended hole to clean, this has been an affective way of removing caked varnish. \\ Use at your own risk.
  
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 ====== Assembly ====== ====== Assembly ======
-You can purchase individual parts or a rebuild kit. The kits will not have needles, jets or the spring, washer & o-ring for the Idle Mixture Screw. +You can purchase individual parts or a rebuild kit. \\ 
 +The kits will not have needles, jets or the spring, washer & o-ring for the Idle Mixture Screw. ​\\ 
 +It's best to get the rebuild kit with Viton rubber. \\
 The rebuild kits are usually less than $20 and include: The rebuild kits are usually less than $20 and include:
   * Carb-to-Manifold Seal   * Carb-to-Manifold Seal
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 If you get a kit, do not discard any of your original parts especially the needle valve. The ones in the kits have a very bad reputation. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​p=4457592&​highlight=keihin+bowl#​post4457592)) \\  If you get a kit, do not discard any of your original parts especially the needle valve. The ones in the kits have a very bad reputation. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​p=4457592&​highlight=keihin+bowl#​post4457592)) \\ 
 Assembling the carburetor is basically the reverse order of disassembly with the exception of setting the float level. See below. \\ Assembling the carburetor is basically the reverse order of disassembly with the exception of setting the float level. See below. \\
 +
 +Float Valve: \\
 +The 3-sided valve (left below) '​may'​ sit cock-eyed in the seat sometimes and cause a leak. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1760294&​page=2)) The four sided (right below) valve is '​supposed'​ to be an improved design. \\
 +{{:​techtalk:​ih:​carb:​float_needles_by_county_fair_-_cropped.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by County Fair of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1760294&​page=2)) \\
 +
 +The float needle should just kiss the seat with no extra pressure. Aftermarket float valves have a spring loaded pin under the float tab. So when the valve tip closes onto the seat, you can still push the valve down further. The valve should '​just'​ close when measuring the float level. Pushing further in from there will not close the valve any further. But it will cause you to set the float level wrong. The valve should be a light seat when measuring. Some aftermarket float needles with the spring loaded pin also have a defective neoprene tip on the other end (which does not seal even when set right). ((Hopper of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1526333&​highlight=float+level&​page=4)) Since the tip on the needle on aftermarket ones don't work well, some would use the old original one (solid pin) to get a better measurement. ((Smerch of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1526333&​highlight=float+level&​page=4)) Beats assembling the carb only to have it sit there and flood with gas. Also make sure you have the float valve for the correct type of Keihin carb. The aftermarket valves are a little taller. \\
 +{{:​techtalk:​ih:​carb:​float_valve_by_megadeth_-_labeled.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Megadeth of the XLFORUM, labeled by Hippysmack http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1526333&​highlight=float+level&​page=3)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​keihin_float_valve_comparison_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\ 
 +
  
 Bowl Gasket: \\ Bowl Gasket: \\
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 (this was a change from the original suggestion for FL and FX models in December, 1975 of 1-1/2 turns) ((HD TSB #694 dated November 7, 1975))\\ (this was a change from the original suggestion for FL and FX models in December, 1975 of 1-1/2 turns) ((HD TSB #694 dated November 7, 1975))\\
 The change was made after the Sportster began using the Keihin carburetor so this would'​ve affected the L76 and E77 carbs. \\ The change was made after the Sportster began using the Keihin carburetor so this would'​ve affected the L76 and E77 carbs. \\
- 
  
 ===== Jets ===== ===== Jets =====
 +{{:​techtalk:​ih:​carb:​keihin_jets_by_billblack_-_cropped-annotated.jpg?​direct&​400|}} ((photo by billblack of the XLFORUM, cropped & annotated by Hippysmack http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​p=4770495&​highlight=keihin+bowl#​post4770495)) \\
 +
 77 and up (disregard for the L76 Sportster carb): \\ 77 and up (disregard for the L76 Sportster carb): \\
 The black rubber plug is installed in 77-up Sportster Keihin butterfly carbs over the slow jet. \\ The black rubber plug is installed in 77-up Sportster Keihin butterfly carbs over the slow jet. \\
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 ===== Accelerator pump ===== ===== Accelerator pump =====
  
-    * Clean and inspect the diaphragm for pinholes, cracks, rips, deformation,​ gunked up rust or varnish deposits and etc. \\ Replace the diaphragm if necessary. \\ When installing the diaphragm, you can add a bit of silicone grease or rubber grease on the lip around the outside of the diaphragm. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​p=4993565&​highlight=accelerator#​post4993565)) \\ It helps make sure it slips right in the groove and stays there. +    * Clean and inspect the diaphragm for pinholes, cracks, rips, deformation,​ gunked up rust or varnish deposits and etc. \\ Replace the diaphragm if necessary. \\ When installing the diaphragm, you can add a bit of silicone grease or rubber grease on the lip around the outside of the diaphragm. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​p=4993565&​highlight=accelerator#​post4993565)) \\ It helps to make sure it slips right in the groove and stays there. \\ The diaphragm may fit snuggly in some carburetors and loose in others despite the diaphragm being the identical size. ((CVPerformance of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1729649&​page=2)) \\ You can place a tiny amount of silicone lube (spark plug boot lube) in the groove to hold the diaphragm in place during assembly
-    * Inspect the accelerator pump rod for bending or rust. \\ If not maintained, you may dismantle the carb to find small pile of rust in the accel pump bowl. The rod can rust and rust particles can brush off of it and accumulate in the bowl. \\ You can spray the rod with a silicone lube to help cut down on rust accumulation. +    * Inspect the accelerator pump rod for bending or rust. \\ If not maintained, you may dismantle the carb to find small pile of rust in the accel pump bowl. \\ The rod can rust and rust particles can brush off of it and accumulate in the bowl. \\ You can spray the rod with a silicone lube to help cut down on rust accumulation. 
-    * Inspect the rubber boot for cracks / tears. +    * Inspect the rubber boot for cracks / tears. ​\\ Any dirt that gets past the boot into the accelerator pump passage should be blown out from the side opposite of the nozzle. \\ (or check valve will close, making cleaning impossible)
-    * Any dirt that gets past the boot into the accelerator pump passage should be blown out from the side opposite of the nozzle. \\ (or check valve will close, making cleaning impossible)+
     * Condensation gets inside and causes rust to form. ((scottfisher of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​p=3749131&​highlight=keihin+bowl#​post3749131)) \\ The air flow will have a cooling effect on the carb and with humid summers, moisture would form and collect under the rubber seal. \\ This would be seen more from short rides in town.     * Condensation gets inside and causes rust to form. ((scottfisher of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​p=3749131&​highlight=keihin+bowl#​post3749131)) \\ The air flow will have a cooling effect on the carb and with humid summers, moisture would form and collect under the rubber seal. \\ This would be seen more from short rides in town.
     * It's also been noted that ethanol in the fuel sucks up water from the atmosphere and corrodes the fuel system. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​p=3749131&​highlight=keihin+bowl#​post3749131)) \\ Generally gravitates to low points in the system - like the acc pump bowl etc.      * It's also been noted that ethanol in the fuel sucks up water from the atmosphere and corrodes the fuel system. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​p=3749131&​highlight=keihin+bowl#​post3749131)) \\ Generally gravitates to low points in the system - like the acc pump bowl etc. 
    
  
-{{:​techtalk:​ih:​carb:​keihin_butterfly_rusty_acc_pump_housing_by_mickey_t.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by mickey t of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=2073548&​highlight=keihin&​page=4)) {{:​techtalk:​ih:​carb:​keihin_13_by_county_fair.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by County Fair of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​s=9e387afdd8bddbd4444d18324d2d215c&​t=1760294&​page=3))  +{{:​techtalk:​ih:​carb:​keihin_butterfly_rusty_acc_pump_housing_by_mickey_t.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by mickey t of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=2073548&​highlight=keihin&​page=4)) {{:​techtalk:​ih:​carb:​keihin_13_by_county_fair.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by County Fair of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​s=9e387afdd8bddbd4444d18324d2d215c&​t=1760294&​page=3)) ​ \\ 
- \\+\\
  
-Accelerator ​pump on 1981-Early 1982 27469-81A (B83F). There is only 1 thru hole from the pump to carb body. \\+While installing the accelerator pump, the diaphragm goes on first, then spring, then cover. \\ 
 +The spring sits between the bottom of the diaphragm and the housing. It pushes the diaphragm back up after the rod pushes it down. \\ 
 +There are two short screws and one long one that hold the pump housing to the float bowl. ((sportsterpaul'​s Keihin Rebuild Video https://​www.youtube.com/​watch?​v=f_Ek37GEEN4&​feature=youtu.be)) \\ 
 + 
 +{{:​techtalk:​ih:​carb:​keihin_accell_pump_diaphragm.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photos cropped - annotated by Hippysmack)) 
 +\\ 
 + 
 +==== 76-78 OEM accel pumps have 2 O-rings ==== 
 +Make sure to use both and that they are squarely in place and in good condition. \\ 
 +Else, gas will leak out there instead of getting squirted into your engine. \\ 
 +One O-ring goes in the carb body pocket and the other one goes in the accel pump pocket. \\ 
 +{{:​techtalk:​ih:​carb:​keihin_butterfly_carb_17_by_hopper.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hopper of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=276157&​page=3)) 
 + 
 +==== 79-up OEM accel pumps have 1 O-ring ==== 
 +Again, make sure the O-ring is squarely in place and not squished to allow a leak or to stop up the passage. \\ 
 +Also check to see if your carb and pump housing has been upgraded to a dual chamber pump that would require two O-rings. \\ 
 +In that case, you'll notice 2 thru holes from the pump to the carb body as well as in the pump housing. \\  
 + 
 +Below is an accelerator ​pump on 1981-Early 1982 27469-81A (B83F). There is only 1 thru hole from the pump to carb body. \\
 The one hole acts as both a fuel filler and accelerator discharge by way of a check ball in the bowl to pump passage. \\ The one hole acts as both a fuel filler and accelerator discharge by way of a check ball in the bowl to pump passage. \\
 {{:​techtalk:​ih:​carb:​keihin_18_by_county_fair.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by County Fair of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1760294&​page=3)) {{:​techtalk:​ih:​carb:​keihin_16_by_county_fair.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by County Fair of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1760294&​page=3)) {{:​techtalk:​ih:​carb:​keihin_17_by_county_fair.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by County Fair of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1760294&​page=3)) \\ {{:​techtalk:​ih:​carb:​keihin_18_by_county_fair.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by County Fair of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1760294&​page=3)) {{:​techtalk:​ih:​carb:​keihin_16_by_county_fair.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by County Fair of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1760294&​page=3)) {{:​techtalk:​ih:​carb:​keihin_17_by_county_fair.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by County Fair of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1760294&​page=3)) \\
-\\+==== Testing the Accelerator Pump Off the Carb ==== 
 +It's good to test the accelerator pump function before installing the carb on the bike. Else, you'll just have to take it back off if it doesn'​t work. \\ 
 +  * Take the bowl the pump rod off the carb with the pump housing still installed. \\ Put some fuel in the bowl (you can also use water as it is fire safe and nonflammable) and put the pump rod in it's hole in the bowl. ((rivethog of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​p=4533873#​post4533873)) \\ Push the pump rod with your finger and see if you get spray out of the brass nozzle. \\ You will see it flow in a stream (not intermittent) when the pump is working. 
 +  * If the pump doesn'​t spray a stream; 
 +    * Check the diaphragm for damage / proper seating. 
 +    * Check that the spring is installed underneath the diaphragm. 
 +  * If the pump does spray but doesn'​t with the bowl installed;​ 
 +    * Inspect the accelerator pump linkage for adjustment or mechanical issues. 
 +  * Make sure you can shake the bowl and / or the accelerator pump housing and hear the check assemblies move. \\ If not, see [[techtalk:​ih:​carb01q#​cleaning|Cleaning]] above to get it loose. 
 +    * The nozzle check valve and/or check ball should rattle in the bowl housing. 
 +    * There is a check for both the inlet and outlet of the accelerator pump system. 
 +    * If you cant hear it, it's stuck and the accelerator pump will not work. ((81Fe of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1663198&​page=7))  
 + 
 + 
 ==== Accelerator Pump Rod Length ==== ==== Accelerator Pump Rod Length ====
 {{:​techtalk:​ih:​carb:​27373-76_keihin_accelerator_pump_rod.jpg?​direct&​300 |}} {{:​techtalk:​ih:​carb:​27373-76_keihin_accelerator_pump_rod.jpg?​direct&​300 |}}
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 Add'l Info & Pics - \\ Add'l Info & Pics - \\
  
-Accelerator Nozzle, Check Valve, Float Seat - http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1624208\\ +Accelerator Nozzle, Check Valve, Float Seat - http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1624208 \\ 
-Accelerator Nozzle & Check Valve - http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1775068\\+Accelerator Nozzle & Check Valve - http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1775068 \\ 
 + 
 +===== Idle Mixture Screw ===== 
 +If you still have the factory plug over the mixture screw, you'll need to drill it out to access the screw. \\ 
 +To keep from drilling too far into the plug, you can use some electrical tape around the drill bit to mark the depth to drill. \\ 
 +Then pry the plug out using a pick or you could twist a small sheet metal screw into the hole to pull the plug out. \\ 
 +With the plug removed clean the area around the mixture screw so no metal fragments remain. \\ 
 +{{techtalk:​evo:​carb:​cv40-imscap-drillbit.jpg?​300|}} ((photo by cantolina of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=14949)) Circled area is where you drill out the plug.  {{:​techtalk:​ref:​carb:​idle_mixture_screw_location_by_popgadget-_annotated.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by popgadget of the XLFORUM, annotated by Hippysmack)) \\ 
 + 
 +Some have cut the idle mixture screw tower down for easier access to the screw when adjusting. \\ 
 +Be sure to stuff some material (pantyhose etc.) in the hole beforehand and blow out the hole and passages with compressed air afterwards. \\ You can also just buy a longer thumbscrew. See more on the EZjust screw below. \\ 
 +{{:​techtalk:​ih:​carb:​keihin_butterfly_mixture_screw_tower_cut_down.jpg?​direct&​300|}} \\ 
 + 
 + 
 + 
 +==== EZ-Just Mixture Screws ==== 
 +{{ :​techtalk:​ref:​carb:​ez_just_idle_mixture_screw_1_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\ 
 +The EZ-Just mixture screw (for L76-87 models) ((https://​cv-performance.com/​ez-just-mixture-screw-81-87-harley-keihin)) ) can be purchased with an extended screw head for hand tuning. \\ You can buy packing from CVP also in case yours has been damaged or is not functioning properly. \\ But, check your local regulations before changing this out to an aftermarket part. \\ You can also find, buy or barter for used parts. \\ ("​Please note: it is a violation of federal law to tamper with or disable any emission or noise control device. That is your PSA for the day"). ((XLForum member - chrishajer)) \\ 
 + 
 +The EZ-Just mixture screw must be threaded in completely (lightly seated) prior to backing out and making final adjustments. \\ 
 +Typically between 10-12 full rotations of the screw to seat. \\ 
 +If you can see more than 1-2 threads after seating the screw, the screw is not screwed in completely. \\ 
 +This could result in the screw falling out during operation. \\ 
 +If you have trouble fully threading the EZ-Just, this indicates the inside threads of the carburetor need cleaning or have a damaged thread inside. \\ 
 +Working the screw in/out with light machine oil (3-In-1 or other) will often help work past any carbon build up inside the carburetor threads. \\ 
 + 
 +The packing for the EZ-Just is the same as OEM: (screw→ spring→ washer→ O-ring). \\ 
 + 
 + 
 +|  Stock idle mixture screw ((photo by sifty of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1592463&​page=48)) ​ |  Stock mixture screw (top) compared to the \\ E-Z-Just mixture screw (bottom) ((photo by sifty of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1592463&​page=48)) ​ |  As installed on top of carb. ((photo by sifty of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1592463&​page=48)) ​ | 
 +|{{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​idle_mixture_screw_1_by_sifty.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|{{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​idle_mixture_screw_2_by_sifty.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|{{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​idle_mixture_screw_5_by_sifty.jpg?​direct&​300|}}| 
 + 
  
 ===== Welch plug ===== ===== Welch plug =====
Line 270: Line 350:
 {{:​techtalk:​ih:​carb:​keihin_butterfly_carb_25_by_hopper.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hopper of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=209347&​highlight=float+level&​page=21)) \\ {{:​techtalk:​ih:​carb:​keihin_butterfly_carb_25_by_hopper.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hopper of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=209347&​highlight=float+level&​page=21)) \\
  
-===== Float Valve ===== 
-The 3-sided valve (left below) '​may'​ sit cock-eyed in the seat sometimes and cause a leak. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1760294&​page=2)) The four sided (right below) valve is '​supposed'​ to be an improved design. \\ 
-{{:​techtalk:​ih:​carb:​float_needles_by_county_fair_-_cropped.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by County Fair of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1760294&​page=2)) \\ 
- 
-The float needle should just kiss the seat with no extra pressure. Aftermarket float valves have a spring loaded pin under the float tab. So when the valve tip closes onto the seat, you can still push the valve down further. The valve should '​just'​ close when measuring the float level. Pushing further in from there will not close the valve any further. But it will cause you to set the float level wrong. The valve should be a light seat when measuring. Some aftermarket float needles with the spring loaded pin also have a defective neoprene tip on the other end (which does not seal even when set right). ((Hopper of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1526333&​highlight=float+level&​page=4)) Since the tip on the needle on aftermarket ones don't work well, some would use the old original one (solid pin) to get a better measurement. ((Smerch of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1526333&​highlight=float+level&​page=4)) Beats assembling the carb only to have it sit there and flood with gas. Also make sure you have the float valve for the correct type of Keihin carb. The aftermarket valves are a little taller. \\ 
-{{:​techtalk:​ih:​carb:​float_valve_by_megadeth_-_labeled.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Megadeth of the XLFORUM, labeled by Hippysmack http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1526333&​highlight=float+level&​page=3)) {{:​techtalk:​evo:​carb:​keihin_float_valve_comparison_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\  
  
 ===== Broken flange repair ===== ===== Broken flange repair =====
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 ====== Helpful Links ====== ====== Helpful Links ======
 **Video**: \\ **Video**: \\
-Here are some excellent videos of servicing the pre-CV Keihin Butterfly carbs:​((Used by permission ​- SportsterPavel ​at the XLForum - http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=2055701))+Here are some excellent videos of servicing the pre-CV Keihin Butterfly carbs:​((Used by permission ​of SportsterPaul ​at the XLForum - http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=2055701))
  
   * [[https://​youtu.be/​f_Ek37GEEN4|#​1 - Tips and tricks.]]\\   * [[https://​youtu.be/​f_Ek37GEEN4|#​1 - Tips and tricks.]]\\