Differences

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--- techtalk:ih:elec02 [2018/12/16 17:37]
hippysmack [Generator]
+++ techtalk:ih:elec02 [2020/03/22 18:11]
hippysmack [Voltage Regulator]
@@ Line 4: / Line 4: @@
 \\
+====== FUSES, RELAYS, CHARGING SYSTEM ======
+\\
+See also illustrated [[techtalk:ref:elec07|1959-1985 Sportster Main Wiring Diagrams (created with reference to the OEM manual)]] in the REF section of the Sportsterpedia. \\
+===== Circuit Breakers =====
+Be sure to review the basic [[techtalk:ref:elec01|Electrical Concepts]] in the Reference Section, especially wire gauging.
+The Circuit Breakers (CB) used on Sportsters are of the self-resetting type. Once they break contact, they will automatically reset after a period of time. These breakers function based on a bi-metallic strip that is heated by current flowing through the strip. More current will cause more heat.
+If the rated amperage for the CB is exceeded, the strip will be overheated, causing it to bend away from the internal contact, thereby opening the circuit and removing the current flow. Once the bi-metallic strip has cooled sufficiently, it will return from its heated position and once again make contact. This will allow the current to begin flowing again. If the circuit is still drawing excessive current, the CB will repeat the open & close cycling until the current level is reduced below the current rating and no longer causing the bi-metallic strip to overheat.
+Although very reliable, over time & usage, the CB may no longer function at the rated current, requiring replacement of the Circuit Breaker.
-====== Fuse-able Link ======
+The following quotation makes the point that fuses are often slow to react to overcurrent situations. It is critical to replace rated fuses with the same rating in order to properly protect the circuits.\\
-  *  A 2" long 20 gauge wire (70105-73) was added on FL,FLH, FX, FXE, XL and XLCH models to act as a fuse-able link.  The fuse wire protects wiring between the battery and the lighting, ignition and accessory circuit breakers. In place of this HD part, any 20 gauge braided wire will work also. But, don't use any heavier gauge wire. The opposing wiring is heavier gauge so this fuse-able link acts as the weakest conductor in the circuit.  ((HD Service Bulletin #659 dated March 6, 1974 pg 1))
+<blockquote>First, fuse ratings can be a bit misleading. A 10A ATO (automotive) fuse will conduct 11 amps for 100 hours minimum. At 13.5 Amps a 10A ATO fuse can take as long as 10 minutes to blow. It is not like once you draw 10 amps "poof" the fuse is gone. (From FUSE SIZING PRIMER located at http://www.powerlet.com/learningCenter/fuseSizing)</blockquote>
-    * On Xl, the wire is connected between the regulator "BAT" terminal and the red wire connector in conduit leading to the starter solenoid (long) terminal.
-    * On XLCH, the wire was connected to the battery "+" terminal and to the red wire connector in conduit leading to the regulator "B+" terminal.
-  * Before replacing the fuse wire, check for shorts in the wiring or the ignition switch to determine the cause of the burnout.
 \\
+===== Fuse Wire =====
+**L1973-1974 XL/XLCH**: \\
+In late 1973, a 2“ long 20 gauge wire (70105-73) was added in the wiring circuit on FL,FLH, FX, FXE, XL and XLCH models to act as a fuse wire. (TSB #659) ((HD Service Bulletin #659 dated March 6, 1974 pg 1))
+ \\
+The fuse wire protects the wiring between the battery and the lighting, ignition and accessory circuit breakers. \\
+The theory is that because the motorcycle wiring is heavier gauge, this fuse will burn out first in case of a short or overload and open the circuit. \\
+**Caution**: Do not use heavier gauge wire for a fuse wire. In place of this HD part, any 20 gauge braided wire will work also. \\
+Before replacing the fuse wire, check for short circuits in the wiring and ignition switch to determine the cause of burnout. \\
+When troubleshooting the electrical system for loss of power, check this wire for burnout at the following locations; \\
+  * FL/FLH: The fuse wire is connected to the starter relay terminal (#1) and to the connector in the conduit leading to the battery positive terminal.
+  * FXE: The fuse wire is connected to the starter solenoid (long) terminal and to the connector in the conduit leading to the starter relay tan wire terminal.
+  * FX: The fuse wire is connected to the battery positive terminal and to the tan wire connector in the conduit. \\ The tan wire terminates at the "B" terminal on the ignition switch.
+  * XL: The fuse wire is connected to the regulator "BAT" terminal and to the red wire connector in the conduit leading to the starter solenoid (long) terminal.
+  * XLCH: The fuse wire is connected to the battery positive terminal and to the red wire connector in conduit leading to the regulator "B+" terminal.
+The fuse wire doesn't show up in the -74 FSM schematic but does in the -78 FSM. \\
+Neither the fuse wire nor the connector (#35 in the -78 FSM) for it show up in the parts catalogs or supplement catalogs thru -78B. \\
+But a pic of the wire itself can currently be seen at NOSParts.com [[https://nosparts.nl/cgi-bin/dbsql/db...umber=70105-73]] \\
+The pic shows the wire skimmed on each end for connectors. \\
+Looking closer at the wiring diagram, connector #35 also shows up as a splice tap on the green wire coming off the turn signal flasher. \\
+So it appears they simply cut the red wire and used a small crimp connector on it inside the conduit to install the fuse wire inline at the factory. \\
+As to 'connector #35', the FSM wiring diagrams do not distinguish between what type connector they refer to.
+It seems they are not referring to a specific part or type but rather denoting a wire splice of sorts. \\
+#35 is designated for the fuse wire, TS flasher, ignition and turn signal lamp wires (some years) etc. \\
+But, going beyond the manual, it has to be small enough to fit inside the wire jacket or conduit without hindering the other wires beside it, especially with the vibration. \\
+Since it doesn't seem to show up in the catalogs specifically for the fuse wire, it could be as simple as a small folded piece of steel. \\
+The TS flasher connector appears to be an permanent 3 way tap as should be the fuse wire with a permanent 2 way. \\
+Permanent meaning a crimp connector instead of a 2 piece socket. \\
+The connectors in the parts books look to range from crimp types to plastic housing punch connectors and simply listed as 'connector'. \\
+If the fuse wire connector could fit in the jacket (like the 75 wire does) then it can't take up much space, as a socket connector would. \\
+Due to positioning, it would need to be a structural sound connection. \\
+The TSB does not require dealers to retrofit this change to previous models. \\
+And a crimp splice is probably what they are referring to in the service bulletin. \\
+Fuse wire placement: \\
+{{:techtalk:ref:elec:L1973-1974_sportster_xl_fuse_wire_addition_by_hippysmack.png?direct&500|}} ((drawing by Hippysmack)) \\
+{{:techtalk:ref:elec:L1973-1974_sportster_xlch_fuse_wire_addition_by_hippysmack.png?direct&500|}} ((drawing by Hippysmack)) \\
+**1975-1976 XL/XLCH**: \\
+The splice connector for the fuse wire is present in both drawings in the -78 FSM but the word "Fuse Wire" has been omitted on both. \\
+So the fuse wire was also present on 75-76 models. \\
+On the 75-76 XL drawing, the connector is on the wire between the starter solenoid and the starter relay. \\
+Fuse wire placement: \\
+{{:techtalk:ref:elec:1975-1976_sportster_xl_fuse_wire_by_hippysmack.png?direct&500|}} ((drawing by Hippysmack)) \\
+{{:techtalk:ref:elec:1975-1976_sportster_xlch_fuse_wire_by_hippysmack.png?direct&500|}} ((drawing by Hippysmack)) \\
+**1977 XL/XLCH**: \\
+XL: \\
+The fuse wire was replaced with a main circuit breaker in 1977. \\
+Connector #35 is still shown in the wiring key for the splice tap at the turn signal flasher. \\
+The 30 amp (main) breaker (74599-77) doesn't show up in the 77 supplement catalog although it is in the 78 FSM drawing as being installed on 77 models. \\
+It doesn't show up for parts order until the 78 supplement (October 1977 ( 78 year model season)) and even then it shows up for 78 XLH, XLCH (not 77). \\
+The -78B catalog shows it for 78 models as well so E77 models should have come with the fuse wire. \\
+The only reference found to a main circuit breaker being installed on a 77 Sportster at all is the -78 FSM wiring diagram. \\
+Fuse wire placement: \\
+{{:techtalk:ref:elec:1977_sportster_xl_fuse_wire_by_hippysmack.png?direct&500|}} ((drawing by Hippysmack)) \\
+{{:techtalk:ref:elec:1977_sportster_xlch_fuse_wire_by_hippysmack.png?direct&500|}} ((drawing by Hippysmack)) \\
+**1978 XL**: \\
+The solid state regulator came out in 78 and the hookup for it changed to a plugged set of wiring. \\
+Yet the 75 fuse wire was being sold for 78 models also so there may be some E78s that came with the fuse wire and older regulator. \\
+Fuse wire placement: \\
+{{:techtalk:ref:elec:1978_sportster_xl_fuse_wire_by_hippysmack.png?direct&500|}} ((drawing by Hippysmack)) \\
+====== Generator  ======
-====== Generator ======
 ===== Sub Documents =====
   * [[techtalk:ih:elec02a|Bench testing a generator]]
@@ Line 31: / Line 121: @@
 http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=39146\\
 http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=559976\\
+===== Polarizing =====
+Polarizing procedure is same for positive or negative ground, 6 or 12 volt. \\
+The purpose of polarizing is to tell the generator whether to output positive or negative ground. \\
 \\
@@ Line 56: / Line 152: @@
   * Reconnect the wiring to the relay and the battery and check starter operation.
+====== Voltage Regulator ======
+Regulator Test Specifications (as revised 2-70).
+{{:techtalk:ih:elec:ih-regulator-test-specs_by_ixl2relax.jpg?direct&700|}} ((photo by IXL2Relax))
 \\

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