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techtalk:ih:engctl01b [2018/09/13 02:04]
hippysmack [Timing Advance Cable]
techtalk:ih:engctl01b [2018/09/17 03:23]
hippysmack
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   * Magneto mount changes:   * Magneto mount changes:
     * (1958-1964) Magneto is mounted in a fixed position producing advanced spark timing only.     * (1958-1964) Magneto is mounted in a fixed position producing advanced spark timing only.
-    * (1965-1968) Magneto is mounted on a movable plate allowing for spark timing retard.+    * (1965-1969) Magneto is mounted on a movable plate allowing for spark timing retard.
  
 |Forget all about the marks on the mag. If you keep worring about those marks you will have a permanent limp. Jack up the bike. Pull spark plauge and timing plug. Watch front intake pushrod. As soon as it starts to drop watch timing hole. Rotate slowly untill the advance mark for the front cylinder is centered in the hole. It should be a single vertical line. Now losen the mag bolts slightly and remove the cap. Unhook the wires going to the points. When looking down on the points (like you are sitting on the seat) the narrow lobe should be just to the left of the points rubbing block. Use a multi meter and put one lead on the points where the wires hook to and another to a ground. Set it on ohms so you can read resistance or continuity so you can hear the beep. Now slowly rotate the mag counter clockwise untill the points break continuity and lock it down.As for the points gap, that spec has to be measured on both lobes. They are supposed to be equal. And you set this first before setting the timing. (( bobber58 of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1430139)) |Forget all about the marks on the mag. If you keep worring about those marks you will have a permanent limp. Jack up the bike. Pull spark plauge and timing plug. Watch front intake pushrod. As soon as it starts to drop watch timing hole. Rotate slowly untill the advance mark for the front cylinder is centered in the hole. It should be a single vertical line. Now losen the mag bolts slightly and remove the cap. Unhook the wires going to the points. When looking down on the points (like you are sitting on the seat) the narrow lobe should be just to the left of the points rubbing block. Use a multi meter and put one lead on the points where the wires hook to and another to a ground. Set it on ohms so you can read resistance or continuity so you can hear the beep. Now slowly rotate the mag counter clockwise untill the points break continuity and lock it down.As for the points gap, that spec has to be measured on both lobes. They are supposed to be equal. And you set this first before setting the timing. (( bobber58 of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1430139))
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 It's almost like a VOES switch for your mag! ((ryder rick of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​threadid=1929393)) \\ It's almost like a VOES switch for your mag! ((ryder rick of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​threadid=1929393)) \\
 The Morris Auto Advance, uses a small spring under the mag base. ((ironheadjunkie of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1476399)) \\  The Morris Auto Advance, uses a small spring under the mag base. ((ironheadjunkie of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1476399)) \\ 
 +The MM3 uses a bronze ring and a steel base. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1659858&​page=2))
 +The MM2 uses a steel ring and a bronze base.
 Tighten up the nuts to create a slight drag, retard the spark for starting and the vibration + the spring will advance the unit.  \\ Tighten up the nuts to create a slight drag, retard the spark for starting and the vibration + the spring will advance the unit.  \\