Differences

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--- techtalk:ih:oil01 [2019/10/19 02:34]
hippysmack [Oil Filter Mount]
+++ techtalk:ih:oil01 [2020/06/05 21:04]
hippysmack [Engine Oil Pressure (57-85)]
@@ Line 60: / Line 60: @@
 The filter mount is mounted on the lower left front engine mount. \\
 This has also been a popular practice on earlier bikes. \\
-|  82-E84 motor / filter mount. ((photos by DirtyCory of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1297584&page=55))  ||
+|  82-E84 lower front motor mount / filter mount. ((photos by DirtyCory of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1297584&page=55))  ||
 |{{:techtalk:ih:oil:82-e84_motor_mount-oil_filter_mount_1_by_dirtycory.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:82-e84_motor_mount-oil_filter_mount_2_by_dirtycory.jpg?direct&300|}}|
@@ Line 133: / Line 133: @@
 ====== Engine Oil Pressure (57-85) ======
 See also [[techtalk:ref:oil04#sportster_oil_pressure_57_to_present|Sportster Oil Pressure (57 to Present)]] in the REF section of the Sportsterpedia. \\
+On ironheads, 80% of oil pressure is sent to the bottom end and 20% is sent to the top end. ((2000 MMI Documents)) \\
 The oil pump is non-regulatory and delivers its entire volume of oil under pressure to the oil filter mount. \\
@@ Line 300: / Line 302: @@
 ===== Oil Pressure Switch =====
-See also [[techtalk:ref:svcproc30#testing_the_oil_pressure_switch|Testing the Oil Pressure Switch]] in the Sportsterpedia. \\
+See also in the Sportsterpedia: \\
+ * [[techtalk:ref:oil19|Homemade Oil Pressure Light]] in case you don't have one. \\
+ * [[techtalk:ref:svcproc30#testing_the_oil_pressure_switch|Testing the Oil Pressure Switch]] \\
+{{ :techtalk:evo:oil:oil_pressure_switch_threads_by_hippysmack.png?direct&300|}} ((drawing by Hippysmack)) \\
 The oil pressure switch (for the oil light) is a pressure actuated diaphragm type on / off switch basically. \\
-The diaphragm is spring loaded and held against its contact point when then engine is not running or the when the oil pressure is too low while running.\\
+The diaphragm is spring loaded and held against it's contact point with the engine shut off or when oil pressure is too low while running (closed circuit). \\
-With the switch contacts touching, this closes the circuit to the oil pressure light and causes it to light up (with the key on, of course). \\
-When the engine is fired up, oil pressure builds in the oil pump, activates the oil light switch and opens the oil pump check valve (allowing oil to enter the engine) \\
+When the engine is fired up, oil pressure builds in the oil pump and pushes the oil switch off it's contact point. \\
+This opens ground to the switch and de-activates the oil light (open circuit). \\
 Oil pressure is sensed by the oil pressure switch. \\
-By the time the engine reaches over 1000 to 1200 rpms, the oil pressure is sufficient to move the oil pressure switch diaphragm completely off it's seat. \\
+Thicker oil is harder for the oil pump to push thru the engine restrictions but the positive displacement oil pump keeps turning. \\
-This opens its contact point, breaking the circuit to the oil pressure light and it goes off. \\
+The combination of thicker oil (when cold) and constant addition of oil by the oil feed side creates higher oil pressure in the pump. \\
+By the time the engine reaches over 1000 to 1200 rpms, the oil starts heating up and flows faster thru the engine restrictions. \\
+The thinner, more free flowing, oil lowers oil pressure inside the oil pump (more flow means less oil backing up
+the pressure). \\
+The lower pressure allows the switch diaphragm spring to relax, moving the contact back toward it's seat (which could close the circuit / light the light again). \\
+The oil check ball / check valve regulates a pocket in the oil pump to keep enough pressure in there to keep the light from coming on during operation.
 Cold cranking oil pressure can reach between 30 PSI and upwards of 60-100+ PSI. \\
@@ Line 332: / Line 345: @@
 **The oil pump check valve plays a role in the operation of the  oil pressure switch**. \\
-{{:techtalk:ih:oil:77-85_oil_check_valve_1_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}} {{:techtalk:ih:oil:77-_85_oil_pump_drawing_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}
+{{:techtalk:ih:oil:77-85_oil_check_valve_1_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:techtalk:ih:oil:77-85_oil_pump_check_valve_pocket_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}} ((drawing by Hippysmack)) \\
 The check valve is not a pass through but instead a cartridge type one way check valve operated by a spring loaded cup against a seat pressing at 4-6 PSI. \\
@@ Line 342: / Line 355: @@
 It also acts as a restriction to activate the oil pressure switch.\\
-Without the check valve, the pressure would not build up as much in the pump. \\
+Without the check valve, the pressure would not build up as much in the 'pocket' in the pump (see drawing above). \\
 It would free flow into the crankcase and disperse. \\
-With the check valve installed and the oil having to find it's way around the cup, pressure builds behind it. \\
+With the check valve installed and the oil having to find it's way around the cup, pressure builds behind it in the pocket. \\
 This back pressure builds inside the pump and pushes the pressure switch contacts open, shutting off the oil light. \\
+The check valve spring does not control the amount of oil that enters the engine (unless it's stuck closed). \\
+The flow goes past the check no matter what. The spring pressure is very light. \\
+It regulates (creates and manages) the oil pressure in the pocket next to the switch before it enters the engine. \\
+That pocket is protected for one reason (to operate the oil switch, therefore the oil light). \\
+If you are not running an oil light, there is no reason to be concerned with the check valve (in regards to a running engine). \\
+You could remove the light and the check and it would not affect the oil flow thru the engine. \\
+The positive displacement oil pump will still deliver oil. \\
+The check/switch/light is a safety precaution to let you see the light and warn you that the pressure in the pocket is low. \\
+In theory and design, if the pressure in the pocket is low, oil flow would also be low. \\
+In practice, there are too many variables on a worn engine,pump, check, switch etc. to keep theory and design true all the time. \\
 The cup will stay off it's seat and open as long as there is sufficient oil pressure pushing against its spring. \\
 This spring actuates the 4-6 PSI pressure that the pump must overcome. \\
 If there is not enough oil pressure coming from the pump to keep the check valve cup completely or partially off it's seat; \\
-The back pressure from the spring will push the cup toward it's seat, or closed position, equal to the amount of minimum pressure loss from the pump.
+The back pressure from the spring will push the cup toward it's seat, or closed position, equal to the amount of minimum pressure loss from the pump. \\
+Thinner (hotter) oil flows faster and builds less pressure. \\
-Until the seat is fully closed, the remaining oil pressure will still try to push past the cup. \\
+When the oil thins out, the oil pressure will still try to push past the cup. \\
-At a point, the pressure from the pump will not be sufficient to completely float the cup off it's seat. \\
+At a point, the pressure from the pump may not be sufficient to completely float the cup off it's seat. \\
 So, the cup will turn sideways a bit only allowing oil to pass it on one side. \\
@@ Line 402: / Line 428: @@
 The transfer valve is staked into position. ((Ferrous Head of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=581947&page=6)) \\
 Look very close around the edges and you'll see two spots that have been lightly punched. \\
-If you clean the metal away from there with a sharp instrument it will come out fairly easily. \\
+To remove it; ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=776527)) \\
+  - You can use a hammer and punch stake mark out of the valve slot. Be careful when hammering on your cases.
+  - You can find a socket that same size as the OD of the valve. Lay it on the valve & give it some face hammer shots. Again, be careful.
+  - Or get 2 hammers, 2 drifts, 2 guys, one for each slot. Get in rhythm so both hit at same time. \\ You don't want to brutal. It will break loose if you repeat 2&3. Be careful not to mash the valve into the case. That would restake the valve. Again, be careful.
 |{{:techtalk:ih:oil:transfer_valve_by_fourcams.jpg?direct&250|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:transfer_valve_1_by_ironheadjunkie.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:transfer_valve_2_by_ironheadjunkie.jpg?direct&300|}}|

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