IH: Oiling & Lubrication - Sub-03E

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====== IH: Oiling & Lubrication - Sub-03E ======
====== 77-85 Oil Pump Removal and Inspection ======
====== Removal ======
  * The 77-85 gerotor pump can be removed with the engine in the frame and the gearcase cover installed.
    * Disconnect the oil lines and oil pressure switch wire.
    * Remove the four mounting bolts and the pump should drop down.
    * There is a flat spot on the frame just under the pump. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=554323))
    * The complete pump assembly comes out as a unit.
      * It´s not possible to take only the cover out because of the of limited space between the cover and frame. ((acb2 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=554323))
    * Its a tight squeeze but you can wriggle the pump out. ((russzx6 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=554323))

===== Pump Stuck to Engine Case =====
The FSM says to apply gasket sealer to the gasket before installation. \\
There are also times when a gasket could not be found, so RTV or other sealers were used in addition to or instead of a gasket. ((Farmer00-1 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=554323)) \\
Therefore, expect that to make it more difficult to remove the pump from the engine. \\

    * First, be patient with it.
      * Try to turn the motor over by hand. It may push the pump out. ((Jason's Sporty of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2071005&highlight=oil+pump))
      * Try a rubber mallet.
        * Gently tap down on the pump's rear side so you're not forcing extra pressure against the drive gear on the pinion shaft.
      * Try a short piece of 2x4 to gently tap on the pump.
      * Try using a crowbar with a "catspaw" on the rear side of the pump. 
        * It's a wood working tool for pulling nails. ((123456qwerty of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2071005&highlight=oil+pump))

===== Gasket Removal =====
There are several ways to remove a stuck gasket. \\
The use of metal abrasives on aluminum mating surfaces can result in distortion or scratching of the surface and a possible leak thereof. \\
A straightedge razor blade can cut ruts in the surface guaranteeing a leak. \\
Plastic scrapers and elbow grease is good alternative. \\
Soaking the gasket with a solvent will soften it somewhat so removal is easier. \\
However, the outer plate and cover seals will have to be replaced before reinstallation. \\
You may have to soak it and scrape several times while removing gasket layers. \\

Below PB Blaster was used with an auto window scraper. ((photos by Hippysmack)) \\
|{{:techtalk:ref:tools:removing_gasket_1_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:tools:removing_gasket_2_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:tools:removing_gasket_3_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|
===== Stuck Cover Gasket =====
The spring washer inside the pump puts a lot of tension against the cover. \\
This pressure should push the cover off of the body when the pump assembly is removed from the engine. \\
Although in use, oil glazing will build around the mating surface between the oil pump body and cover from heat and time. \\
So, it is common for the cover to be stuck to the pump body. \\

According to the FSM, the pump to case mounting gasket should be coated with gasket sealer before installation. \\
This is a debatable procedure as many have reported that is not necessary. \\

However, sometimes people will also apply sealer to the cover O-ring or the channel that the O-ring sits in. \\
This later makes separating the cover from the body more difficult. \\

  * Try holding the pump body in one hand and twisting the cover with the other hand.
  * Try laying the body on the corner of a wooden table (cover hanging off the wood) and gently tapping the cover to twist it.

|  79 oil pump ((photo by Hippysmack))  |
|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:77-81_oil_pump_oil_pressure_switch_installed.jpg?direct&300|}}|

For whatever reason, the cover can be stuck bad enough that it will not come off by tapping it with a rubber mallet. \\
Before using a screwdriver or prybar;

  * Try soaking the entire pump in solvent (as in a gallon of carburetor cleaner).
    * The pump will fit in the small bucket that's inside the gallon can. \\ Make sure to remove the oil pressure switch before soaking. \\ Also check the label for safety precautions. \\
    * Keep in mind, any rubber parts on the inside will have to be replaced before reinstallation. \\ The solvent will soften and expand the cover O-ring and outer plate seal and render them useless. \\
    * Drop the oil pump in the bucket, lower the bucket into the can carefully so as not to splash the solvent and close the lid.
    * Depending on how old or how 'stuck' the parts are, soaking for a couple hours may help to separate the old gasket in between.
    * However, a 24 hour soak will help to soften the gasket / sealer and make it easier to break free.

|  Carburetor Cleaner ((photo by Hippysmack http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2071153&page=4))  |||
|{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:parts_cleaner_1_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:parts_cleaner_3_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:parts_cleaner_6_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|

  * After soaking, open the lid, remove the small bucket inside by the handle, set the bucket on the ground and wash the parts cleaner off with a water hose.
  * Let them air dry and most, if not all of the grease/grime should be gone.
  * You may have to re-soak heavy grimed parts or use a wire brush to break grime hardened areas before soaking again.

This oil pump had to be soaked overnite before the cover would separate from the body. \\

|  Cleaning and soaking gaskets for more easy removal ((photos by Hippysmack http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2071153&page=4))  ||
|{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:parts_cleaner_4_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:parts_cleaner_2_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|

|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:77-e83_oil_pump_5.2_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:77-e83_oil_pump_5.3_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:77-e83_oil_pump_5.1_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|
====== Disassembly ======
Wiggle the cover off and the feed gerotors are exposed. 
Once you've gotten the cover off, you can continue to disassemble the pump from here. ((photos by Hippysmack)) \\

Holding the pump upside down will allow you to remove and inspect parts individually as you go. \\
It also helps to keep from dropping and losing some of the small parts. \\

Inspect the parts for damage and wear while removing them. \\
This can help diagnose certain areas for further inspection that might otherwise be looked over. \\

  * Check for excessive scratching of the cover where the feed gerotors sit as well as the top and bottom of the feed gerotors.
  * The feed gerotors are normally 'sandwiched' in place between the outer plate and the cover.
    * When the cover comes off, they can be slid off the gearshaft.
    * The pin in the gearshaft sticks out into the square recess in the inner gear but doesn't hold the gerotors in place. 
  * The outer plate is held in place by a solid pin in the gearshaft. \\
    * It's a loose fit in the hole in the gearshaft and it's held in place by tension of the spring washer between the plates.


|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:77-e83_oil_pump_1_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:77-e83_oil_pump_2_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:lower_shaft_pin_installed_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|

  * Push in on the outer plate (if needed) to compress the spring and the pin can be removed with pliers or your fingers.
    * Then the outer plate can be removed.
    * The notch in the plate mates around the roll pin in the body that keeps it from rotating.
    * It'll have to be lifted straight out or dumped out.
  * Then remove the spring washer.

|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:77-e83_oil_pump_3_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:outer_plate_installed_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:77-85_oil_pump_spring_washer_installed_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|

  * **The 77-82 outer plate seal is simply pushed down the gearshaft and onto the inner plate**.
    * Check the position and condition of the seal before removing it.
  * Remove the seal and the retaining (lock) ring.
    * You can use external lock rings pliers or a small screwdriver or two.
    * Every time this ring is removed, it gets a little weaker.
    * Best advice is to count on replacing it before reassembling the pump. \\ (therefore, how you remove is irrelevant)

|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:outer_seal_installed_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:77-85_oil_pump_retaining_ring_location_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:77-e83_oil_pump_4_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|

  * **The 83-90 outer plate seal is pressed into the outer plate**.
    * Check the position and condition of the seal before removing it.
    * The seal will need to be pressed or pried out.
    * You can set up a rig as in below (bearing race, a small socket and a rubber hammer).
  * Make sure the socket is slightly smaller than the outer plate I.D.
    * Gently tap the socket.
  * And the seal will fall thru the bearing race (or larger socket etc).

|{{:techtalk:evo:oil:83-90_outer_plate_3_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:oil:83-90_outer_plate_4_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:oil:83-90_outer_plate_5_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|

  * Two small drivers were used here (1 to keep the ring from spinning, 1 to raise an end out of the groove in the gearshaft).
    * The 1st screwdriver can be pushed into the slot in the gerotor to keep the ring from spinning.
    * This will allow you to pick and out on one end and then switch back and forth between the two from there.
  * Remove the retainer clip.
  * Then pull out the inner plate.

|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:77-e83_oil_pump_7_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:77-e83_oil_pump_5_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:77-e83_oil_pump_6_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|

  * Inspect the roll pin in the pump body for straightness and damage.
  * The return gerotors are also normally 'sandwiched' between the inner plate and the pump body.
    * Turn the pump over and dump them out enough to get your fingers on them. \\ (being careful not to loose the second pin in the gearshaft)
  * Inspect the area at the pump bore where the pin contacts it for damage. \\
    * Also, make sure the pin is sitting on the outside of the bore surface instead of inside the bore. \\
  * The second pin holds and keeps the gearshaft from coming out.
    * Use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove it from the gearshaft.
    * Hold the gearshaft with the other hand to keep it from falling when pulling this pin.
    * Else, it could fall out and damage the teeth on the gear.
  * Inspect the return gerotors and their mating surface in the pump body for scratches / damage. \\

|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:77-e83_return_gerotors_installed_position_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:77-e83_oil_pump_8_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:77-e83_oil_pump_9_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|

  * Remove the gearshaft and set it in a safe place to protect the gear teeth.
  * Clean all parts with solvent (brake cleaner works well).
  * With the parts spread out you now can now do further inspection on areas noticed while disassembling. 

|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:77-e83_oil_pump_10_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:77-e83_oil_pump_parts_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|

====== Inspection / Maintenance ======

**Inspection**: \\ With the replacement of the gear driven oil pump by the new gerotor style pump; \\ HD issued a recommendation to dealers regarding servicing of the new style oil pumps. ((HD Service Bulletin #M-711 dated June 3, 1977)) \\ Zero gerotor (gear) side clearance must be maintained by the flat spring between the upper and lower separator plates for adequate oil pressure. \\ For the spring to function properly, the upper face of the lower feed gerotors must extend slightly above the cover to prevent any side clearance. \\ (which would allow oil to get past the gerotors and reduce oil pressure) \\ If you have reduced oil, no oil pressure (oil light comes on or stays on) or otherwise need to disassemble the oil pump for any reason, \\ The gerotors and their corresponding operating surface in the housing and the cover should be checked and serviced accordingly.

  * **Inspect the oil pump cover / body**:
    * Using a straightedge across the feed gerotor set (installed) surface; \\ Measurement should be taken with a feeler gauge from the gerotor surface to the ridge of the edge of the aluminum cover: 
      * The thin, feed gerotors (26492-75) in the oil pump cover (26486-75) should extend .001"-.005" above the cover's aluminum ridge.
      *  The later feed gerotors extend up to .011" above the ridge. \\ If the feed gerotors do not extend above the ridge within the specified range, \\ Remove and sand the ridge evenly until the gerotors extend properly when inserted. \\ Lay some sandpaper on a flat surface (#280 grit then #400 grit to finish). \\ Invert the cover and sand the ridge then check the measurement with a micrometer. \\ Make sure that both the inner and outer gerotors are the same thickness also.
    * An oil pump cover found with an uneven gerotor surface should be removed. \\ If the gerotor widths measure equally but they are not equal in height when placed into the cover, the cover surface is not flat. \\ If the gerotors will not sit flat in the cover then the cover should be replaced. \\ Be sure to check the gerotors in the new/replacement cover using a straight edge to assure a level surface and the proper elevation above the ridge.
    * Check for deep scratches on the machined area where the gerotors sit / rotate. \\ 
  * **Inspect both gerotor sets**:
    * Check inner to outer gerotor clearance. \\ Each gerotor set is made with an inner and outer piece. Mesh the two pieces together (as they normally would sit in operation). \\ Arrange so there is 1 inner tooth facing the center of the wide outer radius. \\ Use a feeler gauge between the inner tooth and outer radius there for a maximum of .004" clearance between them. \\ If the clearance is larger than .004", replace the affected gearotor set. Repeat for the other gerotor set.
    * Measure the height of each inner and outer gerotor set. \\ Each inner and outer piece (feed side) should be the same height, each inner and outer (return side) should be the same height.   
  * **Inspect the seals and O-rings**:
    * Inspect the check valve and cover to housing O-rings and make sure they are deformed / out of round and seal tightly when in place.
    * Inspect the gearshaft seal for deformity and / or wear.
  * **Inspect the check valve**.
    *  Make sure it's not clogged and the internal spring closes the cup / disc properly. \\ The spring loaded cup inside the valve should be free to move and should return to it's closed, seated position. \\ It the check valve is damaged in any way, the complete valve assembly should be replaced. \\ There are no replaceable parts to it.
    * **Inspect the spring washer**:
      * The spring resides between the separator plates (between the feed and scavenge gerotors). \\ Replace the spring if there are any "fingers" broken.


  * Other possible causes of low oil pressure;
      * Air leakage into the pump due to a loose hose clamp at the oil pump and/or oil tank feed hose fitting. \\ If using crimped hose connectors, check them to make sure they are tight. \\ If using worm drive hose clamps, make sure they are tight. \\ Also make sure they haven't been tightened too much (which can cut into the hose under the clamp). \\ This will prevent air leakage into the system which could cause loss of oil pressure due to an airlock in the oil pump.

|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:77-85_oil_pump_feed_gerotors_1_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:77-85_oil_pump_scavenger_gerotors_1_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:77-e83_gerotors_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|

  * **General Wear Issues**: (things to keep in the back of your head when dealing with oiling issues)
    * Gerotors can crack but still work to a point. \\ That point may be where it finally wears out the pump housing to gerotor OD clearance thus delivering less oil to the motor. \\ There is no spec for gerotor to housing clearance. \\ But even hairline cracks in a gerotor will allow it to expand when hot. \\ This will eat away at the housing bore, heat up the pump and internals causing damage to other parts as well. \\ 
    * The solid pins in the side of the gearshaft are responsible for turning the gerotors. \\ The pins will wear and sometimes they will shear off. Each gerotor set has it's own pin. \\ So it's possible for the pin on the return side to shear with the pin on the feed side staying in tact or vice-versa. \\ So you could have feed oil to the motor but no oil return to the tank or vice-versa. \\ Always check for oil returning to the tank when diagnosing any suspected oiling issues (or any time after checking the oil for that matter). \\ Never check oil level without the motor being up to operating temp. \\ So before you shut the motor down to check the oil, have a look in the tank to verify that oil is returning.






\\

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