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techtalk:ih:oil06a [2020/09/11 01:14] hippysmack created |
techtalk:ih:oil06a [2024/01/02 03:07] (current) hippysmack |
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====== IH: Oiling & Lubrication - Sub-06A ====== | ====== IH: Oiling & Lubrication - Sub-06A ====== | ||
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- | ====== Dr Dick on the Origins of Oil Leaks ====== | + | ====== Dr Dick on Oil Leaks ====== |
- | Article by Dr Dick of the XLFORUM ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1918224)) \\ | + | Articles by Dr Dick of the XLFORUM ((https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/178459-considering-cork-rocker-gaskets?t=1918224)) ((https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/173895-xlch-vs-xlh-piston/page2#post3726322)) \\ |
+ | |||
+ | **No Sportster should leak even a single drop. Any one who says otherwise isn't on top of his game**. \\ | ||
This is going to explain some stuff I learned about the rocker box / cylinder head interface. \\ | This is going to explain some stuff I learned about the rocker box / cylinder head interface. \\ | ||
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**History**: \\ | **History**: \\ | ||
+ | |||
The 1st leaks showed up after 1969. All non molested 70> will seal totally for 50,000+ miles if assembled correctly. \\ | The 1st leaks showed up after 1969. All non molested 70> will seal totally for 50,000+ miles if assembled correctly. \\ | ||
Once they begin to weep, it's only a matter of time till they leak. \\ | Once they begin to weep, it's only a matter of time till they leak. \\ | ||
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**Observations**: \\ | **Observations**: \\ | ||
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All gasket failures are from one issue. The gasket 'splits' down its spine and migrates to the each edge of mating surfaces. \\ | All gasket failures are from one issue. The gasket 'splits' down its spine and migrates to the each edge of mating surfaces. \\ | ||
When the split meets the joint edge, a leak starts. The gasket has been 'spit out' of the joint. \\ | When the split meets the joint edge, a leak starts. The gasket has been 'spit out' of the joint. \\ | ||
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**Non cement type 'sealers'**: \\ | **Non cement type 'sealers'**: \\ | ||
+ | |||
Grease, oil, molybdenum disulphide or mold release spray will not increase sealing in the long term over a dry assembly. \\ | Grease, oil, molybdenum disulphide or mold release spray will not increase sealing in the long term over a dry assembly. \\ | ||
But they will allow the gasket to release cleanly on disassembly. A God send to pit guys everywhere. \\ | But they will allow the gasket to release cleanly on disassembly. A God send to pit guys everywhere. \\ | ||
Anti seize, graphite, talcum, chalk or gypsum must be used with care as they are abrasive. \\ | Anti seize, graphite, talcum, chalk or gypsum must be used with care as they are abrasive. \\ | ||
+ | **Base gaskets**: \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | Original 900 were .010"-.012" thick brown paper (printed on one side). The other side was waxed. \\ | ||
+ | Use no goop with these. If they are shrunken, soak them in water and install while wet. \\ | ||
+ | If using the thicker black 015" / .020" repop bases, you can put anti-seize or grease if desired. This acts as release agents for the next time. \\ | ||
+ | Using nothing is also perfectly fine. \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | Under no circumstances put any commercial gasket goop on them. That stuff allows the gasket to move around in the joint. \\ | ||
+ | Goop is the mayonnaise that makes your lunch meat jettision the roll. \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | 900 base gaskets fit over the studs on 2 possible positions. \\ | ||
+ | Only one of those positions allows the outer profile of the gasket to match the case configuration (the thin surface of the gasket adjoins the tappet blocks). \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | **Head gaskets**: \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | If using the original graphite coated black gaskets, use nothing (the graphite will rub off so be aware). \\ | ||
+ | If using the AMF black replacements (no graphite), use anti seize. \\ | ||
+ | Nothing also works but you will curse yourself on the next head removal. \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | If using the blue Teflon ones, use nothing. \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | Under no circumstances put any commercial gasket goop on them. That stuff allows the gasket to move around in the joint. \\ | ||
+ | Again, Goop is the mayo that makes your lunch meat jettision the roll. \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | **Rocker box**: \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | Gaskets 1st appeared here in 1970 (and they have caused untold heartache to the uninitiated). \\ | ||
+ | Using no gaskets; (previous to that the entire head and jug for that matter) got aluminium paint including gask surfaces. \\ | ||
+ | This aluminum powder acted like an aluminum gasket. \\ | ||
+ | But it would slowly migrate away. High mileage 69< will have damp joints. \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | **Using gaskets**: \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | Any goop will lead to premature leaks (from the mayo effect) and can happen incredibly quick. \\ | ||
+ | Dry is best. Anti-seize is OK if you're concerned with easy removal. \\ | ||
+ | |||
+ | **Dr Dick's super top secret rocker box gasket trick**: \\ | ||
+ | The gasket is a 3 piece affair. \\ | ||
+ | 2 gaskets per head for spring pockets and one washer shaped for under the center bolt. \\ | ||
+ | Ditch that center one. Just leave it out. \\ | ||
+ | The thing that starts rocker box gasket problems is when the center bolt gets loose. \\ | ||
+ | The gasket just takes away the mechanical integrity of the center hold down. You anal guys can make a steel shim. \\ | ||
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