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--- techtalk:ih:trouble01 [2017/07/18 14:15]
hippysmack [IH: Specific Troubleshooting]
+++ techtalk:ih:trouble01 [2018/04/17 23:32]
ixl2relax
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 ====== IH: Specific Troubleshooting ======
-Please note that a well tuned IronHead does not make any noise. Rather it is a symphony of sounds and, when well set up, you can hear all of them - the valve train, the intake, the exhaust. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=2018764&highlight=Symphony))
+Please note that a well tuned IronHead does not make any noise. Rather it is a symphony of sounds and, when well set up, you can hear all of them - the valve train, the intake, the exhaust. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2018764&highlight=Symphony))
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 We did a top to bottom adjustment/tune up while I instructed him on how to keep it running right. It ran smooth, started easily and did the potato potato.
 He called me as soon as he got home and couldn't believe the new power and how much better it sounded at stop lights.
-He had the symphony. ((Tim The Grim from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?s=48f65af3f853cf3505d2ed16f702bb61&threadid=2020041))
+He had the symphony. ((Tim The Grim from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?s=48f65af3f853cf3505d2ed16f702bb61&threadid=2020041))
 The next Sunday I was on route to the shop/ride, rounding a curve on a highway and saw 2 riders on the shoulder. One in a full out leather suit with a sport bike and the other my longhair pal.
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 Noises, as unpleasant as they may be , need to be diagnosed and addressed as soon as possible. Damage is being done anytime a motor isn't running correctly.
 Don't just assume it's an old design and supposed to be noisy.
-If you don't have the symphony, find someone who can help you get it. ((Tim The Grim from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?s=48f65af3f853cf3505d2ed16f702bb61&threadid=2020041))
+If you don't have the symphony, find someone who can help you get it. ((Tim The Grim from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?threadid=2020041))
 ===== Installing your Iron Head Engine =====
-Let's break the mount install into two procedures.
+Let's break the mount install into two procedures. ((DR DICK of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1864035&highlight=Ironhead+Crankcase+Drain+Plug&page=4))
-  - Mount to Frame. You see that the mount has a machined surf that sets an a machined shelf on frame. That interface is what sets the mount 'square' to frame.
+  - **Mount to Frame**. You see that the mount has a machined surf that sets an a machined shelf on frame. That interface is what sets the mount 'square' to frame.
-  - Then the mount to motor interface sets motor square to mount. Add the two together and the motor sits square to frame. That's important as it sets the motor's center of gravity over the frame centerline . = a light feel on the road.
+  - **Mount to motor** interface sets motor square to mount. Add the two together and the motor sits square to frame. That's important as it sets the motor's center of gravity over the frame centerline . = a light feel on the road.
-  * When you install a motor in the frame, the first thing is to do is drop the mount on that shelf.
+  * 1. **Mount to Frame**.
-  * Then you install the 2 upper bolts with their lockwashers. As you draw those bolts up the motor rises off the frame tubes.
+    * When you install a motor in the frame, the first thing is to do is drop the mount on that shelf.
-  * Once the top bolts have almost drawn the mount to kiss frame casting, you go for the lower bolts and lockwashers.
+    * Then you install the 2 upper bolts with their lockwashers. As you draw those bolts up the motor rises off the frame tubes.
-  * That's where the issue (if there is one) will show in lower bolt misalignment.
+    * Once the top bolts have almost drawn the mount to kiss frame casting, you go for the lower bolts and lockwashers.
+    * That's where the issue (if there is one) will show in lower bolt misalignment.
+    * The dry fitting is to make sure the mount holes align with the frame holes and all 4 bolts catch thread. If they dont catch, now is the time to rectify.
+    * When the actual engine is installed, you will do the same - top bolts almost drawn and lowers started, then tighten top bolts.
+    * Motor is now registered correctly. Tighten lowers.
-the dry fitting is to make sure the mount holes align with the frame holes and all 4 bolts catch thread.
+Make sense so far? \\ The below procedure get's done on the bench previous to motor install.
-if they dont catch now is the time to rectify.
-when actual engine install you will do the same-
+  * 2. **Mount to motor**
-top bolts almost drawn and lowers started.
+    * 7 fasteners, three studs/nuts, 2 bolts with lock washers, and two oil tank stand-off with lockwashers.
-then titen top bolts.
+    * Slip mount in place and reinstall the 3 studs then remove/loosen nuts so mount is free on studs.
-motor is now registered correctly.
+    * Install the two top bolts and lock washers. Tighten to crush lock washers 1/2 way. Do the same with the standoffs.
-titen lowers.
+    * The 1/2 crushed lockwashers will keep the mount in contact with case.
-make sense so far?
+    * Now tighten stud nuts (don't forget the clip for chain oiler).
+    * Now tighten the 2 bolts, then the standoffs. be careful here too. Screw machine stock again the stand offs wont take as much torque as regular bolts. Following this assures the mount registers to cases correctly.
+    * Install kicker shaft and big gear. Tighten nut and bend lock tab.
+    * Kicker shaft oil seals have been obsolete. What do you have for this?
+    * Once kicker shaft is in, install motor in frame. Do top end re-assembly and primary assembly with motor in frame.
-mount to motor:
+That's how to get motor in frame correctly. But,prior to motor install make sure kick stand and tab is up to the next 50yrs of service. Bent tabs allow bike to lean excessively. Bikes that lean too much are hard to start and can break crankcases if stand head flexes into case during kickstarting.
-this get done on bench previous to motor install
-fasteners, three studs/nuts, 2 bolts with lock washers, and two oil tank stand-off with lockwashers.
-slip mount in place and reinstall the 3 studs then remove/loosen nuts so mount is free on studs.
-install the two top bolts and lock washers. titen to crush lock washers 1/2 way.
-do same with standoffs.
-the 1/2 crushed lockwashers will keep mount in contact with case.
-now titen stud nuts (dont forget the clip for chain oiler).
-now titen the 2 bolts.
-then the standoffs. be careful here too. screw machine stock again the stand offs wont take as much torque as regular bolts.
-following this assures the mount registers to cases correctly.
-install kicker shaft and big gear titen nut and bend lock tab.
-kicker shaft oil seals have been obsolete. what do you have for this?
-once kicker shaft is in install motor in frame. do top end reassm and primary assm with motor in frame.
-thats how to get motor in frame correctly.
-but
-prior to motor install make sure kick stand and tab is up to the next 50yrs if service.
-tabs bend. bent tabs allow bike to lean excessively.
-bikes that lean too much are hadr to start and can break crankcases if stand head flexes into case during kickstarting.
-see post 47

Trace: • IH: Transmission & Final Drive

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