The factory fuel elbow found on CV carburetors has been prone to cracking and leaking.
Also the manner in which the plastic elbow is formed onto a brass insert restricts flow.
It's made of a combination of molded plastic on the outside with a brass nipple installed on the inside of the carb.
The plastic attached to the brass nipple can crack or break off when removing the original crimp clamp or if over tightened.
Stress can also break it while removing / installing the carb if the attached hose gets caught on something and pulled.
Replacing the factory elbow with a brass one will increase gas flow (especially with a vacuum-less petcock).

Factory plastic fuel inlet elbow. 1)

• 1/4“x20 tap
• Tap handle
• (2)-7/16” wrenches
• 1/4“x20 bolt w nut and washer
• Spacer (or a socket can be used instead)
• Hammer
• Bench vise with soft jaws (can be optional but handy)

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• Brass 90° elbow

You need an elbow designed for this application for best results.
The MoCo may still sell both an OEM and brass inlet that can be pressed in (arbor press or large vise).
Some catalogs carry an OEM replacement inlet but it has the same plastic elbow (not recommended).
While others sell a brass inlet made from a 2-piece design (also not recommended).
CV Performance sells a solid elbow and a hose clamp as a kit.
You can also buy a kit on the internet / Ebay that includes the tap, bolt and spacer setup along with a solid elbow.
Or check your local Harley Dealership for a replacement elbow.

CV Performance elbow 3)	Aftermarket kit off Ebay. 4)

There are differences in these two elbows and those differences can be a factor in how it is installed.
However, either will work fine. Below are some considerations when installing.
The CV Performance elbow has a shorter end going into the carb than the other one. It's also tapered.
This allows you to set the elbow horizontally into the carb without a tilt and get a loose fit to adjust the direction before pressing it in.
The other elbow is more consistent with the original length, not tapered and will provide more holding area through the entire shaft.
But it will sit in the hole at a tilt until it is pressed in somewhat so the angle needs to set before you install it too far in the hole.
The CVP elbow has a flat at the bend for ease installing it in a bench vise although with the taper, it is relatively easy to tap in place with a wrench or hammer.

It's a fairly simple job to replace the fuel inlet.
Instructions are also here at the CVP website: https://cv-performance.com/harley-fuel-elbow-replacement

Notes:
While working on the carburetor or any fuel system, care should be taken to keep away from any open flame or heat source.
Never try to loosen carburetor parts using heat.
Do not use brute force or methods other than a puller.
D0 not remove the inlet from the carb using a drill or vise grips.
This could damage the body or distort, crack or broaden the hole where the new inlet presses into.
Follow all safety precautions.
The following instructions are provided as a basic guide and assumes no liability for any damages or injury.
Never work on a carburetor or related fuel system in the presence of an open flame or heat source.

Prep:
The cover doesn't necessarily have to be removed, but it's best to be able to blow out the passage with it off.
Be sure to first mark or note the position/angle of the factory elbow before removing it.
The replacement elbow should installed in the same direction to keep your original fuel hose routing.
In order to remove the original fuel inlet you must first break off the plastic molded elbow.
Don't be shy, get out your favorite hammer or pliers and simply snap the plastic portion off of the carb.
It is important to first note the angle/position of the original elbow so the fuel line is routed correctly when reinstalling a new elbow.
You'll be using a hammer to break off the plastic elbow so make sure to cover the carb to keep out any debris generated.

Mark or note factory elbow position. 5)	Cover the carb to keep out debris. 6)

CAUTION:
Never heat a carburetor to remove or loosen parts.

Holding the carb in your hand with the plastic fitting on a bench / table won't jolt the body / insides as much.
Using a hammer, strike the upper part of the 90° elbow past the 90° joint (nothing but plastic here).
The plastic may break off in various ways, thus the plastic bag over the carb was used here. ⁷⁾

Once the end is broken, you can try peeling the plastic off the brass nipple to expose the end. ⁸⁾

Assemble the 1/4”-20 tap, tap handle and lube the tap. The I.D. of the nipple is already sufficient to accept the tap.
(no drilling required)
Insert the tap into the nipple and begin threading it clockwise turning in approximately 1/4“.
Tapping threads all the way through is not necessary as you only need enough for the bolt to grab while pulling the nipple out.
To prevent excess brass particles from falling back into the carburetor with the bowl on;
It is advisable to hold the carb with the inlet piece facing down so that particles fall away rather than being pushed into the bowl.
This is not necessary with the bowl off as you can blow the passage out from the inside.

Remove all brass cuttings / particles after tapping and before continuing.
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Assemble the puller:
Place the spacer (or deep socket) over the brass nipple.
Thread the nut onto the bolt up to the screw head then add the washer.
Insert this assembly through the spacer and thread the bolt a few turns into the tapped brass piece.
You only need a few threads in to grab.
With a wrench begin to turn the nut down (clockwise) forcing the screw to lift the brass piece out.
It may be easier to hold the bolt with one wrench and turn the nut with another.
Once the piece begins to move it will pull out like butter. ¹⁰⁾
Once the nipple is out, you may have to 'pop' the spacer of as it may wedge against the carb.

Thoroughly clean the fuel insert passage to make sure it is free of any brass filings.
Soapy water will wash away any fine particles and not harm the internal parts.
Compressed air will also blow out the passage.
Be sure the carburetor is clean and dry.
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Installing the new fuel elbow will vary depending upon brand or type of elbow used.
Position the inlet elbow in the same direction as the original so that the hose can be routed correctly.
If installing a solid brass or CVP inlet and a press is not available, simply tap the inlet into the carburetor with a small mallet.
You may also place a piece of wood over the elbow and tap in with a regular hammer.
The smooth end presses into the carb and the barbed end is meant to grip the fuel hose.
If you're to tap the elbow in, hold the carb in one hand and tap with the other.
This will take the blow off the carb body and internals.

Double check alignment before installing. 12)	Tap the elbow in with a hammer. 13)	Or pull it in with a vise with soft jaws. 14)

The brass inlet will self-seal when pressed in as long as the carb inlet passage hole is free of debris and not damaged, stretched, or cracked.
A thin layer of blue locktite may be applied around the fitting to help seal.
But care should be taken not to allow any to drip back into the fuel passage as it will damage the rubber tip on the float needle (plunger). ¹⁵⁾

Blow the passage out again to ensure of no debris before installing the bowl. ¹⁶⁾