Differences
This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.
| Both sides previous revision Previous revision Next revision | Previous revision Next revision Both sides next revision | ||
|
techtalk:ref:elec03 [2019/08/14 23:26] hippysmack |
techtalk:ref:elec03 [2019/12/17 19:24] hippysmack [LED Lighting] |
||
|---|---|---|---|
| Line 29: | Line 29: | ||
| \\ | \\ | ||
| + | Go here to check the 'fully charged' battery [[techtalk:evo:elec01#battery_charge_level|voltage levels]].\\ | ||
| + | \\ | ||
| + | |||
| The wet-cell FLA is slowly being phased out with a greater embrace of the AGM or LIon versions. So, in a generalized way, here are the differences between the newer LIon batteries and the less-new AGM batteries: | The wet-cell FLA is slowly being phased out with a greater embrace of the AGM or LIon versions. So, in a generalized way, here are the differences between the newer LIon batteries and the less-new AGM batteries: | ||
| Line 148: | Line 151: | ||
| {{:techtalk:ref:elec:1157-turnsignal-bulb-chart-specs.jpg|}} | {{:techtalk:ref:elec:1157-turnsignal-bulb-chart-specs.jpg|}} | ||
| + | ===== LED Lighting ===== | ||
| + | |||
| + | LEDs are not only highly shock resistant but they have a very long lifetime and can be made quite bright (and in many different colors). ((Scooter_Trash of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=205077)) \\ | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===== Converting to LED Turn Signals ===== | ||
| + | |||
| + | Selecting and mounting the LED turn signals can be fairly easy with many aftermarket options. \\ | ||
| + | However, they cannot simply be straight wired in as the OEM bulbs are. \\ | ||
| + | The recommendation is to use a ‘load balancer’. \\ | ||
| + | Here is how a typical turn signal and flasher circuit works: \\ | ||
| + | |||
| + | If all you do first is replace the bulbs with LED lights, all is normal except the lights don’t blink when you push the turn signal switch. \\ | ||
| + | The root cause is that standard bulbs (app around 20-30 watts and 12-14 volts) draw a couple of amps. \\ | ||
| + | Normal electromechanical flashers need an amp or two to flash on and off. \\ | ||
| + | But LEDs draw only a few milliamps, which is not enough to activate the flashers. Hence the edict to use ‘load balancers’. \\ | ||
| + | A load balancer is nothing but a dummy load (or more simply called a resistor). \\ | ||
| + | By installing a resistor in parallel with your light, the resistor acts as a dummy load drawing the amps you need in order to make the flasher work. \\ | ||
| + | |||
| + | **Choosing a resister**: \\ | ||
| + | It's important to understand that each incandescent bulb runs 24w when it flashes. ((IXL2Relax of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5396701#post5396701)) \\ | ||
| + | You need a 6-ohm resistor to simulate that equiv load. \\ | ||
| + | Using a resistor rated at 10-watts is definitely going to heat up when you run 24-watts of power through it. \\ | ||
| + | You need a 50-watt resistor because components should be spec'd for twice the rating that they will regularly encounter to provide reliability and safety. \\ | ||
| + | You might get away with cutting corners, sometimes, but it's not a good idea as a policy. \\ | ||
| + | You need one 6-ohm, 50-watt resistor to replace each turn signal bulb (that you either eliminate or replace with LED version or mini-bulbs). \\ | ||
| + | |||
| + | Between 1991 and 2007, the total load that each side of the Turn Signal Module is expecting is 2 x 24w = 48w. \\ | ||
| + | That's what it is designed to function with when blinking the TS lights. \\ | ||
| + | Prior to '91, the turn signal flasher was an automotive type with no intelligence. \\ | ||
| + | From 2007 on, most of the TSMs are smart enough to sense and function with whatever the standard load requires. \\ | ||
| + | (whether incandescent, LED or mini-bulb, without adding load resistors) \\ | ||
| + | If you eliminate or replace (with LEDs) both front & back turn signals on the same side, you can parallel two resistors to obtain a 3-ohm load (equiv to two bulbs). \\ | ||
| + | THAT ONLY REQUIRES ONE CONNECTION TO THE TURN SIGNAL LINE for that side of the bike (no terrorizing of the harness is necessary). \\ | ||
| + | Just make one connection, anywhere along the entire TS wiring, for the resistors to replace the bulbs, on that side of the bike. \\ | ||
| + | (VIOLET wire on LEFT side and/or BROWN wire on the RIGHT side with resistors often placed somewhere under the seat) \\ | ||
| + | So fundamentally use the right parts, install in a nice clean, protected method of connection (solder, shrink-wrap, etc). \\ | ||
| + | |||
| + | | Simplified OEM turns. ((drawing by Scooter_Trash of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=205077, redrawn by Hippysmack)) | Resister / load balancer inline. ((drawings by Scooter_Trash of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=205077, redrawn by Hippysmack)) || | ||
| + | |{{:techtalk:ref:elec:led_turn_conversion_1_redrawn_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:elec:led_turn_conversion_2_redrawn_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:elec:led_turn_conversion_3_redrawn_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
