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techtalk:ref:engmech01d [2018/07/15 16:21] hippysmack [Timing Inspection Plug and Drain Plugs] |
techtalk:ref:engmech01d [2018/07/25 00:50] hippysmack [Timing Inspection Plug and Drain Plugs] |
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| |61-62 , 704 crankcase plug - all sportsters (61 & 62 supplement) | |61-62 , 704 crankcase plug - all sportsters (61 & 62 supplement) | ||
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| + | |{{:techtalk:ref:engmech:04_primary_drain_plug_by_luxblue.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| + | | 04 Primary Drain Plug ((photo by LuxBlue of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1098213&highlight=oil+pump+spacer)) | | ||
| ==== Diagnosing where the leak is coming from ==== | ==== Diagnosing where the leak is coming from ==== | ||
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| ==== Source a temporary or alternate plug ==== | ==== Source a temporary or alternate plug ==== | ||
| - | * A cork in the hole has been used with various results. Be sure to have an extra or two on hand in the case that the first one blows out. | + | * **A cork** in the hole has been used with various results. Be sure to have an extra or two on hand in the case that the first one blows out. |
| - | * Use a self expanding rubber plug like the ones used for freeze plugs. They are removable and they expand by tightening the wingnut or bolt in the middle. ((milmat1 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1541235&highlight=colony+timing+hole+plug&page=3)). | + | * **A self expanding rubber plug** like the ones used for freeze plugs. They are removable and they expand by tightening the wingnut or bolt in the middle. ((milmat1 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1541235&highlight=colony+timing+hole+plug&page=3)). |
| - | * Cut a (same thread size) bolt down to the length of the (measured) hole. Making it a bit longer than the original plug, should allow you to catch the last bit of original threads where the shorter plug wouldn't. Measure up in the hole and don't make it too long to protrude inside the engine and catch on moving parts. ((Hopper http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1461031&highlight=stripped+primary+drain&page=2)) | + | * **A bolt**. Cut a (same thread size) bolt down to the length of the (measured) hole. Making it a bit longer than the original plug, should allow you to catch the last bit of original threads where the shorter plug wouldn't. Measure up in the hole and don't make it too long to protrude inside the engine and catch on moving parts. ((Hopper http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1461031&highlight=stripped+primary+drain&page=2)) |
| - | * Cut a piece of oil or gas line hose that has an O.D. that will fit snug into the case hole. Find a bolt that has threads that are slightly larger than the inside of the hose. Screw the bolt into the hose and the threads of the bolt will expand the hose out against the case threads to seal the leak. ((CaptCaveman of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1541235&highlight=colony+timing+hole+plug&page=2)) | + | * **A piece of oil or gas line hose** that has an O.D. that will fit snug into the case hole. Find a bolt that has threads that are slightly larger than the inside of the hose. Screw the bolt into the hose and the threads of the bolt will expand the hose out against the case threads to seal the leak. ((CaptCaveman of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1541235&highlight=colony+timing+hole+plug&page=2)) |
| - | * Self-Tapping Oversized Repair Plug (piggyback style): This has two plugs in one. The outer plug is tapered to cut new oversized threads in the case and the center plug is easily removed to change oil. ((https://www.lawsonproducts.com/lawson/Self-Tapping-Oversized-Oil-Pan-Repair-Plug/93210.lp)) These do not come with a magnet on the end to catch metal particles in the oil. You can also make your own [[techtalk:ref:engmech01d#piggyback_drain_plug_mod_for_stripped_1_2_x20_plug_holes|Piggyback Drain Plug]] with a magnet with the mod below. | + | * **A word of caution** when using automotive style __self-tapping oversized plugs__ when dealing with the crankcase drain. It may be okay for the transmission or primary compartment, but the crankcase drains on Ironheads are little different. ((mrmom9r of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1529653)) |
| + | * The drain hole is very close to the edge of the case seam and more often than not the tapered self-tapping style will crack the case from the hole to the center seam of the cases. | ||
| + | * Once that cracks you will have a leak that you can't stop short of a complete teardown. | ||
| + | * **Self-Tapping Oversized Repair Plug** (piggyback style): This has two plugs in one. The outer plug is tapered to cut new oversized threads in the case and the center plug is easily removed to change oil. ((https://www.lawsonproducts.com/lawson/Self-Tapping-Oversized-Oil-Pan-Repair-Plug/93210.lp)) These do not come with a magnet on the end to catch metal particles in the oil. You can also make your own [[techtalk:ref:engmech01d#piggyback_drain_plug_mod_for_stripped_1_2_x20_plug_holes|Piggyback Drain Plug]] with a magnet with the mod below. | ||
| |{{:techtalk:ref:engmech:self-tapping_oversized_repair_plug-piggyback_style_by_72_ironhead_xlh.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |{{:techtalk:ref:engmech:self-tapping_oversized_repair_plug-piggyback_style_by_72_ironhead_xlh.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
