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techtalk:ref:genmsr10 [2017/03/20 23:55] hippysmack [REF: Oiling & Lubrication] |
techtalk:ref:genmsr10 [2020/04/19 02:30] hippysmack [Final drive] |
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| [[:techtalk:menu|{{ :techtalk:gototechnicalmenu.jpg|}}]] | [[:techtalk:menu|{{ :techtalk:gototechnicalmenu.jpg|}}]] | ||
| - | ====== Assembly Lubes, Oils and Sealant ====== | + | ====== REF: General-MSR 10 ====== |
| \\ | \\ | ||
| + | ====== Assembly Lubes, Oils and Sealant ====== | ||
| - | ====== Assembly Lubes, Oils and Sealant ====== | + | ====== Case Half Sealant ====== |
| - | + | Apparently HondaBond, YammaBond, and ThreeBond are all the same product, all manufactured by 3M company. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?s=5165c2d55507b0a80754920c69e24721&p=3351809)) \\ | |
| - | + | These are recommended for this application. \\ | |
| - | ==== Wheels ==== | + | ====== Wheels ====== |
| - | === Bearings and Packing === | + | ===== Bearings and Packing ===== |
| * HD-99855-89 Bearing Grease is suggested for use on front and rear/ cast and laced; ((1998 HD FSM pg 2-13)) | * HD-99855-89 Bearing Grease is suggested for use on front and rear/ cast and laced; ((1998 HD FSM pg 2-13)) | ||
| * Inner and outer bearing races | * Inner and outer bearing races | ||
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| * Light clean engine oil is suggested for use on front and rear/ cast and laced;((1998 HD FSM pg 2-13)) | * Light clean engine oil is suggested for use on front and rear/ cast and laced;((1998 HD FSM pg 2-13)) | ||
| * Outside lip of the hubs oil seal | * Outside lip of the hubs oil seal | ||
| - | === Tires === | + | ===== Tires ===== |
| * Tire lube or soapy water when installing on rim ((1998 HD XLH FSM)) | * Tire lube or soapy water when installing on rim ((1998 HD XLH FSM)) | ||
| - | === Axles === | + | ===== Axles ===== |
| * Front axle- light coat of bearing grease ((1998 HD XLH FSM)) | * Front axle- light coat of bearing grease ((1998 HD XLH FSM)) | ||
| * Rear axle- light coat of Loctite anti-seize lube ((1998 HD XLH FSM)) | * Rear axle- light coat of Loctite anti-seize lube ((1998 HD XLH FSM)) | ||
| - | === Secondary Drive Sprocket === | + | ===== Secondary Drive Sprocket ===== |
| * Rear wheel sprocket to rim bolts - cast or laced- Red Loctite 271 (2-drops ea.)((1998 HD XLH FSM)) | * Rear wheel sprocket to rim bolts - cast or laced- Red Loctite 271 (2-drops ea.)((1998 HD XLH FSM)) | ||
| - | === Wheel Weights === | + | ===== Wheel Weights ===== |
| * Loctite 420 Super Bonder Adhesive is suggested for installing stick-on wheel weights.((1998 HD FSM pg 2-27)) | * Loctite 420 Super Bonder Adhesive is suggested for installing stick-on wheel weights.((1998 HD FSM pg 2-27)) | ||
| * 3 drops applied to the backing adhesive after peeling off the plastic seal, allow 8 hours to cure ((1998 HD XLH FSM)) | * 3 drops applied to the backing adhesive after peeling off the plastic seal, allow 8 hours to cure ((1998 HD XLH FSM)) | ||
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| - | ==== Grease ==== | + | ====== Bearing Grease ===== |
| * Grease consists of a base oil with a thickener added, consisting primarily of metal soaps (lithium, sodium, aluminum, and calcium), organic (ureas), or inorganic compounds. These thickeners greatly influence the characteristics of the grease and the lubricating properties of the grease are attributable to its base oil. Grease can contain additives (antioxidant, anticorrosion, anti-wear, fillers, fortifiers, and extreme pressure fortifiers) that improve its performance. Temperature range, base oil viscosity, and stiffness or penetration level are key characteristics to consider when selecting a grease. ((http://www.astbearings.com/bearing-lubrication.html)) | * Grease consists of a base oil with a thickener added, consisting primarily of metal soaps (lithium, sodium, aluminum, and calcium), organic (ureas), or inorganic compounds. These thickeners greatly influence the characteristics of the grease and the lubricating properties of the grease are attributable to its base oil. Grease can contain additives (antioxidant, anticorrosion, anti-wear, fillers, fortifiers, and extreme pressure fortifiers) that improve its performance. Temperature range, base oil viscosity, and stiffness or penetration level are key characteristics to consider when selecting a grease. ((http://www.astbearings.com/bearing-lubrication.html)) | ||
| * Greases can "age" in complicated ways. Grease quality could be affected by a change in the gel structure. If the gel contracts, significant oil bleed would be evident and the remaining grease would stiffen. The gel structure may also become softer over a period of time. | * Greases can "age" in complicated ways. Grease quality could be affected by a change in the gel structure. If the gel contracts, significant oil bleed would be evident and the remaining grease would stiffen. The gel structure may also become softer over a period of time. | ||
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| - | === Some Wheel Bearing Grease Comparisons === | + | ===== Some Wheel Bearing Grease Comparisons ===== |
| When selecting a wheel bearing grease it is important to make sure it is classified as NLGI grade 2 for wheels bearings. | When selecting a wheel bearing grease it is important to make sure it is classified as NLGI grade 2 for wheels bearings. | ||
| * Dow Corning Molykote® 44 High Temperature Bearing Grease | * Dow Corning Molykote® 44 High Temperature Bearing Grease | ||
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| ---- | ---- | ||
| - | ==== Dielectric Grease ==== | + | ====== Dielectric Grease ====== |
| * A silicone dielectric compound, nonconductive, moisture proof grease meaning that it does not enhance the flow of electrical current and acts as a moisture seal as well as a current insulator for electrical connections. It is silicone based but does not harden like silicone sealants that your used to. It acts as normal grease does with a varying viscosity to heat. | * A silicone dielectric compound, nonconductive, moisture proof grease meaning that it does not enhance the flow of electrical current and acts as a moisture seal as well as a current insulator for electrical connections. It is silicone based but does not harden like silicone sealants that your used to. It acts as normal grease does with a varying viscosity to heat. | ||
| * Typical industry uses include aircraft, automotive and marine ignition systems, widely used in spark plug connections and also disconnection junctions in electrical wiring systems, electrical assemblies and terminals. | * Typical industry uses include aircraft, automotive and marine ignition systems, widely used in spark plug connections and also disconnection junctions in electrical wiring systems, electrical assemblies and terminals. | ||
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| | | ||
| - | === The Truth === | + | ===== The Truth About Using Dielectric Grease ===== |
| * In some cases, a grease may not be recommended or productive to adjacent components. Check the manufacturers label for precautions in use. | * In some cases, a grease may not be recommended or productive to adjacent components. Check the manufacturers label for precautions in use. | ||
| * It is Ok to grease the connectors before connection being made for most applications as long as there is a tight enough metal to metal connection point to push out the grease in that area. | * It is Ok to grease the connectors before connection being made for most applications as long as there is a tight enough metal to metal connection point to push out the grease in that area. | ||
| * DO NOT use WD-40 to blow out/ clean old grease from connectors. Wd-40 is a conductive petroleum based lubricant that will not wipe out or dry up enough to ensure a non-conductive condition in your connections which could arc on such use. | * DO NOT use WD-40 to blow out/ clean old grease from connectors. Wd-40 is a conductive petroleum based lubricant that will not wipe out or dry up enough to ensure a non-conductive condition in your connections which could arc on such use. | ||
| - | * Dielectric grease is NOT a conductor, its an insulator....((cantolina of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=130945&highlight=dielectric+grease)) | + | * Dielectric grease is NOT a conductor, its an insulator....((cantolina of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=130945&highlight=dielectric+grease)) |
| * Dielectric grease, while not promoting conductivity, does help to preserve and maintain it by reducing conductivity degrading corrosion/oxidation of electrical connections over the dimension of time. It works by sealing out air and moisture (if good, solid, tight connections have been made and have been periodically cleaned and checked for same). | * Dielectric grease, while not promoting conductivity, does help to preserve and maintain it by reducing conductivity degrading corrosion/oxidation of electrical connections over the dimension of time. It works by sealing out air and moisture (if good, solid, tight connections have been made and have been periodically cleaned and checked for same). | ||
| * While slathering dielectric grease everywhere onto electrical connectors before you mate them won’t yield an improvement in electrical current, it does coat and/or undercoat surrounding open areas not subject to tight bonding and keeps corrosion from entering. | * While slathering dielectric grease everywhere onto electrical connectors before you mate them won’t yield an improvement in electrical current, it does coat and/or undercoat surrounding open areas not subject to tight bonding and keeps corrosion from entering. | ||
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| * Always make sure your connections are tight, especially if you lube them before connecting them to allow the grease to move out of the hard connection area. Use a multi-meter to confirm conductivity before leaving it. | * Always make sure your connections are tight, especially if you lube them before connecting them to allow the grease to move out of the hard connection area. Use a multi-meter to confirm conductivity before leaving it. | ||
| * Dielectric grease is not a cleaner, it cannot restore corroded electrical connections but it is non-conductive grease with good heat resistance properties. | * Dielectric grease is not a cleaner, it cannot restore corroded electrical connections but it is non-conductive grease with good heat resistance properties. | ||
| - | * I tried both ways and don't see any voltage difference with my cheapo meter so I don't think the grease has much, if any resistance.((Baldspot of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=1513574&highlight=dielectric+grease)) | + | * I tried both ways and don't see any voltage difference with my cheapo meter so I don't think the grease has much, if any resistance.((Baldspot of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1513574&highlight=dielectric+grease)) |
| - | === Proper Use of Dielectric Grease === | + | ===== Proper Use of Dielectric Grease ===== |
| * Understanding the principles above and the purpose of dielectric grease - a nonconductor of direct electric current, you can use it in an appropriate manner to help maintain electrical connections in your motorcycle or whatever else. | * Understanding the principles above and the purpose of dielectric grease - a nonconductor of direct electric current, you can use it in an appropriate manner to help maintain electrical connections in your motorcycle or whatever else. | ||
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| - | === Dielectric Grease Cleanup (Spills) === | + | ===== Dielectric Grease Cleanup (Spills) ===== |
| * Remove with petroleum distillates and chlorinated solvents. ((http://crcindustries.com/auto/?s=05113)) | * Remove with petroleum distillates and chlorinated solvents. ((http://crcindustries.com/auto/?s=05113)) | ||
| * Soak up with inert absorbent material (e.g. sand, silica gel, acid binder, universal binder, sawdust).((http://hybris.cms.henkel.com/henkel/msdspdf?country=US&language=EN&matnr=718807)) | * Soak up with inert absorbent material (e.g. sand, silica gel, acid binder, universal binder, sawdust).((http://hybris.cms.henkel.com/henkel/msdspdf?country=US&language=EN&matnr=718807)) | ||
| - | === Precautions === | + | ===== Precautions ===== |
| * Use only with adequate ventilation. Prevent contact with eyes, skin and clothing. Do not breathe vapor and mist. Wash thoroughly after handling. Keep container closed. | * Use only with adequate ventilation. Prevent contact with eyes, skin and clothing. Do not breathe vapor and mist. Wash thoroughly after handling. Keep container closed. | ||
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| - | ==== Anti-seize compound ==== | + | ====== Anti-seize compound ====== |
| + | See also [[techtalk:ref:tools123#wet_torque_value_chart_for_lubed_threads|Wet Torque Value Chart for Lubed Threads]] in the Tool section of the Sportsterpedia. \\ | ||
| * Anti-Seize is a general phrase used to describe a lubing compound commonly used for threaded connections. However, anti-seize technology goes way beyond that. Anti-seize compounds offer a solution to problems associated with metal to metal contact at high temperatures and aide in assembly and disassembly. Some of these problems include seizing, galling, cold welding and heat freezing. These problems are accelerated by corrosion, friction, high temperature, load and torque. Anti-seize protects against rust and corrosion, reduces friction by providing constant torque tension, speeds up assembly and disassembly, prevents seizing, galling & cold welding. It is non-hardening and non-dripping and it retards galvanic action between dissimilar metals. | * Anti-Seize is a general phrase used to describe a lubing compound commonly used for threaded connections. However, anti-seize technology goes way beyond that. Anti-seize compounds offer a solution to problems associated with metal to metal contact at high temperatures and aide in assembly and disassembly. Some of these problems include seizing, galling, cold welding and heat freezing. These problems are accelerated by corrosion, friction, high temperature, load and torque. Anti-seize protects against rust and corrosion, reduces friction by providing constant torque tension, speeds up assembly and disassembly, prevents seizing, galling & cold welding. It is non-hardening and non-dripping and it retards galvanic action between dissimilar metals. | ||
| * Anti-seize acts as a lubricant to perform as a barrier or shield preventing deteriation of the metal surfaces. Oils and conventional greases are OK for some applications, however they do not last well beyond temperatures of 400ºF to 500ºF. Anti- seize compounds were developed to handle the lubricating job at higher temperature limits of various applications. They contain oils and greases for protection at lower temperatures and are the vehicle for the metallic and other solids contained in the compounds. After the oils and greases dissipate, the solid content of the compound remains (in the threads, on the flanges, etc.) plating the metal surfaces to resist friction, rust, corrosion and other detrimental conditions. | * Anti-seize acts as a lubricant to perform as a barrier or shield preventing deteriation of the metal surfaces. Oils and conventional greases are OK for some applications, however they do not last well beyond temperatures of 400ºF to 500ºF. Anti- seize compounds were developed to handle the lubricating job at higher temperature limits of various applications. They contain oils and greases for protection at lower temperatures and are the vehicle for the metallic and other solids contained in the compounds. After the oils and greases dissipate, the solid content of the compound remains (in the threads, on the flanges, etc.) plating the metal surfaces to resist friction, rust, corrosion and other detrimental conditions. | ||
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| There are different brands and formulas for different applications but just remember that they are all formula based for certain applications. There are low temp formulas as well as the high temps already mentioned, formulas for marine based applications for salt and water and also food grade formulas for use in food prep machines. They are not however formulated for use with dissimilar metals or for certain metal combinations. | There are different brands and formulas for different applications but just remember that they are all formula based for certain applications. There are low temp formulas as well as the high temps already mentioned, formulas for marine based applications for salt and water and also food grade formulas for use in food prep machines. They are not however formulated for use with dissimilar metals or for certain metal combinations. | ||
| - | === Most manufacturer's products read that they are safe for use on all metals, however; === | + | ===== Most manufacturer's products read that they are safe for use on all metals, however; ===== |
| * Copper base anti-seize offers good corrosion protection on all kinds of steel except stainless steel. Copper on stainless steel creates an inter-crystaline corrosion, which can make actual stainless steel parts crack and break. This is why the nuclear power plants do not allow copper with any material which comes in contact with the stainless steel parts. | * Copper base anti-seize offers good corrosion protection on all kinds of steel except stainless steel. Copper on stainless steel creates an inter-crystaline corrosion, which can make actual stainless steel parts crack and break. This is why the nuclear power plants do not allow copper with any material which comes in contact with the stainless steel parts. | ||
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| - | === Some examples of different brands === | + | ===== Some examples of different brands ===== |
| * Vibra-Tite: | * Vibra-Tite: | ||
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| * Does not alter the frictional coefficient between bolts and the female thread. | * Does not alter the frictional coefficient between bolts and the female thread. | ||
| * Temperature Range: Subzero to 2500° F ((http://www.depacproducts.net/anti.html)) | * Temperature Range: Subzero to 2500° F ((http://www.depacproducts.net/anti.html)) | ||
| - | === Other === | ||
| - | * Use wax on chrome fasteners as anti-seize compound. Works very well...probably as well as anti-seize in that application. ((cantolina of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die)) | + | |
| - | * If using new chrome nuts and bolt, you MUST use anti-seeze lube. Else they will gall together. ((joestuff of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die)) | + | |
| - | === Upon comparison, copper based anti-seize seems to be the best choice used on a Sportster === | + | |
| - | === The FSM points out areas to use anti-seize on: === | + | ===== Other ===== |
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| + | * Use wax on chrome fasteners as anti-seize compound. Works very well...probably as well as anti-seize in that application. ((cantolina of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die)) | ||
| + | * If using new chrome nuts and bolt, you MUST use anti-seeze lube. Else they will gall together. ((joestuff of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die)) | ||
| + | ===== Upon comparison, copper based anti-seize seems to be the best choice used on a Sportster ===== | ||
| + | ===== The FSM points out areas to use anti-seize on: ===== | ||
| * Rear axle bolt | * Rear axle bolt | ||
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| - | ==== Loctite or Threadlocker ==== | + | ====== Loctite or Threadlocker ====== |
| + | See also [[techtalk:ref:tools123#wet_torque_value_chart_for_lubed_threads|Wet Torque Value Chart for Lubed Threads]] in the Tool section of the Sportsterpedia. \\ | ||
| * Thread locker liquids have been around for many years and the brand, Loctite, has seemed to come to be synonymous for all brands just as the word Coke has replaced the phrase meaning a carbonated drink in general language since Loctite was the original inventor of anaerobic technology. ((http://www.na.henkel-adhesives.com/us/content_data/316041_FINAL_LT4680_AAM_Do_It_Guide_v7.pdf)) Permatex also offers threadlocker formulas. Both of these companies do seem to share a certain conformity regarding colors/ strengths and applications. A threadlocker is an anaerobic adhesive used on threaded metals that cures at room temperature in the absence of air. The adhesive completely fills the gaps between mating threads to lock and seal the threaded assembly.((http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/industrial/threadlocker-loctite-13445.htm)) | * Thread locker liquids have been around for many years and the brand, Loctite, has seemed to come to be synonymous for all brands just as the word Coke has replaced the phrase meaning a carbonated drink in general language since Loctite was the original inventor of anaerobic technology. ((http://www.na.henkel-adhesives.com/us/content_data/316041_FINAL_LT4680_AAM_Do_It_Guide_v7.pdf)) Permatex also offers threadlocker formulas. Both of these companies do seem to share a certain conformity regarding colors/ strengths and applications. A threadlocker is an anaerobic adhesive used on threaded metals that cures at room temperature in the absence of air. The adhesive completely fills the gaps between mating threads to lock and seal the threaded assembly.((http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/industrial/threadlocker-loctite-13445.htm)) | ||
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| * High strength formulas are recommended for up to 1" fasteners and applications to 450 degrees F. | * High strength formulas are recommended for up to 1" fasteners and applications to 450 degrees F. | ||
| * There are many more formulas on the market with different strengths and applications. The ones mentioned are or have been most common. Most hardware stores carry a medium and a high strength and some the low strength. But, there are different strengths of low, medium and high formulas. Check with the manufacturer for a current list of products and applications offered. In general, all you need is the most common blue and red for a Sporty. | * There are many more formulas on the market with different strengths and applications. The ones mentioned are or have been most common. Most hardware stores carry a medium and a high strength and some the low strength. But, there are different strengths of low, medium and high formulas. Check with the manufacturer for a current list of products and applications offered. In general, all you need is the most common blue and red for a Sporty. | ||
| - | === Application (from manufacturers) === | + | ===== Application (from the MoCo) ===== |
| + | ==== General Locking and Sealing Compounds ==== | ||
| + | |||
| + | In 1985, the MoCo issued a Service Bulletin documenting a recommended list of locking and sealing compounds. The products listed are designed to increase the retention of fasteners and to aid in minor repairs. However, the MoCo does not distribute Loctite or Duro products. ((HD Service Bulletin #M-902 dated June 4, 1985)) | ||
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| + | |Product|Color|Type / Application| | ||
| + | |Loctite 222|Purple|Low strength - For fasteners less than 1/4" dia. - General body hardware.| | ||
| + | |Loctite 242 \\ Duro Lock N Seal|Blue|Medium strength - For 1/4" dia. and larger fasteners - Lock fender braces, master cylinder bolts, brake disc mounting bolts, brake anchors, exhaust flanges and general body hardware.| | ||
| + | |Loctite 271 \\ Duro Stud and Bearings|Red|Very high strength - For 1" dia. and smaller fasteners - Secure upper and lower fork assemblies, shock absorber mounts, fittings, axle nuts, shift lever screws, cylinder head / crankcase studs and handlebar clamps.| | ||
| + | |Loctite 290 \\ Duro Wick N Lock|Green|High strength penetrating material - Lock adjustment screws and assembled parts. Secure footrests and kick starters.| | ||
| + | |Loctite RC/609|Green|3000 psi shear strength retaining compound - Retain brake pedal bushings, mainshaft sprockets, countershafts, oil seals, drive train, linkage, clutch hub and sprocket assemblies.| | ||
| + | |Loctite RC/620|green|3000 psi shear strength High Temp retaining compound - Locking crankpin and flywheel nuts.| | ||
| + | |Loctite 504 Gasket Eliminator|Orange|Instant sealant - Make emergency gaskets on-the-spot. Seal crankcase covers, cylinders to crankcase, oil pumps and rocker arm covers.| | ||
| + | |Loctite 495 Superbonder|Clear|Instant adhesive - bond brake pedal and kick starter pads. Secure loose hand grips. Repair loose windshield moldings and other rubber, vinyl and plastic components.| | ||
| + | |Hylomar PL32|Blue|Non hardening sealant - Retain engine gaskets in place during assembly. Seal crankcase halves.| | ||
| + | |Loctite Pipe Sealant With Teflon|White|General purpose sealant - Seal threaded fuel line fittings, hydraulic brake line fittings, engine plugs and oil drain plugs.| | ||
| + | |Loctite Anti-Seize| - |Temperature resistant heavy duty lubricant - Prevent galling, seizing and corrosion on front and rear axles.| | ||
| + | |Loctite Safety Solvent| - |General purpose cleaner - Dissolve grease, dirt and oil from parts quickly and safely.| | ||
| + | |Locquic Primer N| - |General purpose primer - Used for Loctite pipe sealants and flange sealants.| | ||
| + | |Locquic Primer T| - |Fast curing primer - Used for Loctite threadlockers, retaining compounds and sealants.| | ||
| + | |Locquic Primer NF 736| - |Very fast curing primer - Used for Loctite threadlockers, retaining compounds and sealants.| | ||
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| + | ===== Application (from manufacturers) ===== | ||
| * In general, it’s best to use the manufacturer’s label for application mixed with a little common sense of your own since the manufacturers do not sell their products to just Sportster owners. Meaning, most applications are meant to keep the bolts from coming loose for a long time. Whereas a Sportster owner, by nature of the machine, will have to take things off and put them back on many times due to servicing, customizing and etc. | * In general, it’s best to use the manufacturer’s label for application mixed with a little common sense of your own since the manufacturers do not sell their products to just Sportster owners. Meaning, most applications are meant to keep the bolts from coming loose for a long time. Whereas a Sportster owner, by nature of the machine, will have to take things off and put them back on many times due to servicing, customizing and etc. | ||
| * Both Loctite ((http://www.na.henkel-adhesives.com/us/content_data/316041_FINAL_LT4680_AAM_Do_It_Guide_v7.pdf)) and Permatex ((https://www.permatex.com/wp-content/uploads/tech_docs/tds/24026.pdf )) suggest to clean the threads thoroughly with parts cleaning sprays, let dry and then cover the threads with the product at the thread engagement areas. | * Both Loctite ((http://www.na.henkel-adhesives.com/us/content_data/316041_FINAL_LT4680_AAM_Do_It_Guide_v7.pdf)) and Permatex ((https://www.permatex.com/wp-content/uploads/tech_docs/tds/24026.pdf )) suggest to clean the threads thoroughly with parts cleaning sprays, let dry and then cover the threads with the product at the thread engagement areas. | ||
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| * Both say a primer is not needed on active metals; Soft Steel- Iron, Copper, Brass, Manganese, Bronze, Nickel and Aluminum Alloy but primer is recommended (sold separately by them) for inactive metals; Bright Platings, Anodized Surfaces, Titanium, Zinc, Pure Aluminum, Stainless Steel and Cadmium. The primer activates the inactive metals, speeds curing times and also acts as a cleaning agent. | * Both say a primer is not needed on active metals; Soft Steel- Iron, Copper, Brass, Manganese, Bronze, Nickel and Aluminum Alloy but primer is recommended (sold separately by them) for inactive metals; Bright Platings, Anodized Surfaces, Titanium, Zinc, Pure Aluminum, Stainless Steel and Cadmium. The primer activates the inactive metals, speeds curing times and also acts as a cleaning agent. | ||
| - | === Adding common sense to application === | + | ===== Adding common sense to application ===== |
| * Threads need to be clean and free of debris especially if they will receive torque during installation. Where threads have been chased or newly threaded, brake cleaner or WD-40 will blow out the shavings and clean out tapping/ cleaning oils. You can also spray or soak them with alcohol and blow them out with compressed air. ((sportsterdoc from the XLFORUM)) Threadlocker will still work if a light film of oil (wiped, not dripping) is present. Run all bolts down dry with your finger first to make sure all threads are good else chase them if you can’t with a tap and die. | * Threads need to be clean and free of debris especially if they will receive torque during installation. Where threads have been chased or newly threaded, brake cleaner or WD-40 will blow out the shavings and clean out tapping/ cleaning oils. You can also spray or soak them with alcohol and blow them out with compressed air. ((sportsterdoc from the XLFORUM)) Threadlocker will still work if a light film of oil (wiped, not dripping) is present. Run all bolts down dry with your finger first to make sure all threads are good else chase them if you can’t with a tap and die. | ||
| * Install and snug all bolts with required lube or sealer (anti-seize/threadlocker /light oil) equally. Snug up all bolts in sequence from center out. Final torque is now based on sealant applied. The specs in the FSM are for dry threads only. Lube of any sorts including threadlocker on the threads adds pre-load to the bolt. | * Install and snug all bolts with required lube or sealer (anti-seize/threadlocker /light oil) equally. Snug up all bolts in sequence from center out. Final torque is now based on sealant applied. The specs in the FSM are for dry threads only. Lube of any sorts including threadlocker on the threads adds pre-load to the bolt. | ||
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| * In to a thru hole, if you leave the bolt soppy with oil, the bolt needs to “set” a little after it is in just snug to allow any trapped oil to escape the threads before going to torque. Still, lubed threads will change installation torque values. | * In to a thru hole, if you leave the bolt soppy with oil, the bolt needs to “set” a little after it is in just snug to allow any trapped oil to escape the threads before going to torque. Still, lubed threads will change installation torque values. | ||
| * On blind threaded holes, hydrolock can happen if too much oil is left on the threads or too much threadlock is left in the bottom. Appling threadlock into a blind hole also allows for the bolt to be locked horizontally and vertically making it harder to remove and also you have to clean all that back out to re-install the bolt. Again, just a few threads covered will do. | * On blind threaded holes, hydrolock can happen if too much oil is left on the threads or too much threadlock is left in the bottom. Appling threadlock into a blind hole also allows for the bolt to be locked horizontally and vertically making it harder to remove and also you have to clean all that back out to re-install the bolt. Again, just a few threads covered will do. | ||
| - | === Removal === | + | ===== Removal ===== |
| * Bolt removal: | * Bolt removal: | ||
| * Low (purple) and medium (blue) strength formulas can generally be wrenched loose with common wrenches. | * Low (purple) and medium (blue) strength formulas can generally be wrenched loose with common wrenches. | ||
| * High strength formulas (red) can be loosened with heat applied and a wrench while it’s hot (melts the threadlocker...temporarily. Let it cool and the threadlocker hardens again). | * High strength formulas (red) can be loosened with heat applied and a wrench while it’s hot (melts the threadlocker...temporarily. Let it cool and the threadlocker hardens again). | ||
| * Removing threadlock from bolts and threaded holes is best done with tap and dies. | * Removing threadlock from bolts and threaded holes is best done with tap and dies. | ||
| - | === The FSM points out areas to use threadlocker on: === | + | ===== The FSM points out areas to use threadlocker on: ===== |
| | | ||
| - | === Permanent strength- Red (271) or equivalent === | + | ===== Permanent strength- Red (271) or equivalent ===== |
| - | == Wheels == | + | ==== Wheels ==== |
| * Rear wheel sprocket to rim bolts - cast or laced (2-drops ea.) | * Rear wheel sprocket to rim bolts - cast or laced (2-drops ea.) | ||
| - | === Permanent strength- Red (262) or equivalent === | + | ==== Permanent strength- Red (262) or equivalent ==== |
| - | == Primary == | + | ==== Primary ==== |
| * Engine sprocket nut, clutch basket nut. | * Engine sprocket nut, clutch basket nut. | ||
| - | == Gear Case == | + | ==== Gear Case ==== |
| * Pinion shaft nut. | * Pinion shaft nut. | ||
| - | == Final drive == | + | ==== Final drive ==== |
| * 1986-1990 models: final drive sprocket nut. | * 1986-1990 models: final drive sprocket nut. | ||
| | | ||
| - | === Medium strength- Blue (242) or equivalent === | + | ===== Medium strength- Blue (242) or equivalent ===== |
| | | ||
| - | == Final drive == | + | ==== Final drive ==== |
| * 1991-2003 models: final drive sprocket nut. | * 1991-2003 models: final drive sprocket nut. | ||
| * Drive sprocket lock screws. | * Drive sprocket lock screws. | ||
| - | == Where and how much threadlock you use is ultimately up to you based off what you think you may need. Always make a habit of checking for loose bolts. == | ||
| - | |||
| - | Based on article by olrump1 from the XLFORUM (([[http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=1972860]])) | ||
| + | * Where and how much threadlock you use is ultimately up to you based off what you think you may need. Always make a habit of checking for loose bolts. | ||
| + | |||
| + | |||
| + | Based on article by olrump1 from the XLFORUM (([[http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1972860]])) | ||
| + | ====== Pipe Dope ====== | ||
| + | Effective as thread sealant especially on tapered thread fittings. \\ | ||
| + | {{:techtalk:ref:genmsr:pipe_dope_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\ | ||
| ---- | ---- | ||
