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techtalk:ref:genmsr36 [2019/01/09 02:19]
ixl2relax ↷ Links adapted because of a move operation
techtalk:ref:genmsr36 [2019/08/01 04:56] (current)
hippysmack ↷ Links adapted because of a move operation
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 ====== Thread Repair ====== ====== Thread Repair ======
 +===== Cleaning Threads =====
 +Rusty, sealant ridden or chromed over threads can give you unwanted problems. \\
 +Rust in the thread pattern will only compile once re-inserted in a threaded hole. \\
 +Thread sealant (silicone, Loctite etc.) will affect the amount of torque applied on the fastener once re-installed. \\
 +Chromed over threads increase the OD which will affect torque applied as well as the ability to insert them in a mating thread. \\
 +
 +==== Using a wire wheel to clean the fastener threads ====
 +
 +Always wear a face mask when using a wire brush. \\
 +A fine mist of metal particles with get airborne and end up into your eyes. \\
 +Always wash you face and hands afterwards. \\
 +You may not feel anything while working, but later, any metal particles landing generally above your eyes can fall into them. \\
 +
 +**Using a bench grinder with a wire wheel**: \\
 +This is the more dangerous approach but can be done by successfully with adequate focus and care. \\
 +The bolt / fastener is held in hand or with vise grips against the spinning wire wheel. \\
 +Then, as the wire wheel cleans one side, the fastener is turned with the wheel spinning until the threads all the way around have been cleaned. \\
 +//​Caution//:​ If you lose grip on the bolt, it will go flying! \\
 +Using gloves to hold the bolt can result in less grip control. \\
 +Having your hands so close to the wheel can result in losing some meat on your fingers. \\
 +\\ \\ 
 +**Using a Dremil or angle grinder with a wire wheel**: \\
 +
 +==== Using taps / dies to chase debris out of the threads ====
 +
 +You may find, when chasing threads, that the threads are warped also. \\
 +This is common on used fasteners as normal or over torque can warp them. \\
 +Some threads are initially cut to a '​tighter than standard'​ clearance. \\
 +And chasing them with standard size taps / dies simply widens that clearance to standard sizes. \\
 +
 +**Standard tap and dies** have sharp cutting edges. ​ \\
 +If the threads have not been warped or damaged; \\
 +A die will cut through and remove sealants on bolt threads. \\
 +Likewise, a tap will cut through and remove sealants on hole threads. \\
 +
 +**Roll form tap and dies** have rounded cutting edges. \\
 +They will work the same as standard tap and dies without the sharp edges actually cutting the material. \\
 +And they are great for cleaning debris out of threads. \\
 +
 +See Chasing Threads below. \\
 ===== Chasing Threads ===== ===== Chasing Threads =====
-  * This is where chasing ​threads ​is essential. Where torque specs are designed to tighten to a known point that is before the bolt would break and/or before the piece your working on gives or cracks under pressure (also given the composite of the bolts), the practice of proper torque on a bolt/ hole can also stress new threads.  +  * Clean threads ​are essential ​in a achieving proper ​torque ​specs. \\ Torque ​specs are designed to tighten to a known point that is before the bolt would break and/or before the piece your working on gives or cracks under pressure. \\ (also given the composite of the bolts) ​\\ The practice of proper torque on a bolt / hole can also stress new threads.  
-  * The individual ​threads on a bolt or a threaded hole could have been warped due to material composite, heat, initial torque and pressure applied during (previous) normal operation. Warp-age could have been been increased from too much initial torque and/or uneven initial torque all around on the piece that had been installed.  +  * Individual ​threads on a bolt or a threaded hole could have been warped due to material composite, heat, initial torque. \\ (and pressure applied during (previous) normal operation. ​\\ Warp-age could have been been increased from too much initial torque and / or uneven initial torque all around on the piece that had been installed.  
-  * That said, these bolts and threaded holes were initially threaded (internal or external respectively) with taps and dies. Consequently,​ taps and dies are used to chase the holes / clean the bolts back to their original shape/ cleanliness and done with plenty of good cutting oil. +  * That said, these bolts and threaded holes were initially threaded (internal or external respectively) with taps and dies. \\ Consequently,​ taps and dies are used to chase the holes / clean the bolts back to their original shape / cleanliness and done with plenty of good cutting oil. 
-      * Roll Form Taps- used to pressure form threads in softer material like aluminum. ​I have used roll form taps to "​restore"​ damaged threads. They work well because they will actually push the metal back to shape as opposed to cutting it away, word of caution they use a lot of force and are way easier to break so don't get to western with them. Oil and steady pressure. Turn in 2 or 3 turns back off 1 or 2 turns to allow the pressure to come off and if you are using a cut tap the cut material needs to come out. One word of caution, when you buy taps and dies don't be cheap you get what you pay for  ((corkman8086 from the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=739536&​highlight=chasing+threads)) +      * Roll Form Taps- used to pressure form threads in softer material like aluminum. ​\\ Roll form taps are used to "​restore"​ damaged threads. ​\\ They work well because they will actually push the metal back to shape as opposed to cutting it away. \\ **Word ​of caution**: they use a lot of force and are way easier to break so don't get to western with them. \\ Use plenty of oil and steady pressure. ​\\ Turn in 2 or 3 turnsback off 1 or 2 turns to allow the pressure to come off and if you are using a cut tap the cut material needs to come out. \\ Another ​word of caution, when you buy taps and dies, sometimes ​you get what you pay for((corkman8086 from the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=739536&​highlight=chasing+threads)) \\ {{:​techtalk:​ref:​tools:​craftsman_52105_thread_repair_kit_by_shadowdog500.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=221093&​highlight=split+rocker+box)) 
-  * While chasing the bolts / holes you will experience metal shavings coming out of the holes and down the bolts. This is normal and how much depends how much damage has been applied to them. You are in fact re-shaping these to back to their original shape. There really isn't much reason to replace a bolt other than cosmetics or rot unless it cannot be re-threaded or has been overly torque stressed. This is a condition in which, on the way to final torque, the bolt begins to stretch or twist from it's protruding center but not threading any longer into the hole as cylinder head bolts can do((hippysmack from the XLFORUM))+  * While chasing the bolts / holes you will experience metal shavings coming out of the holes and down the bolts. ​\\ This is normal and how much depends how much damage has been applied to them. \\ You are in fact re-shaping these to back to their original shape. ​\\ There really isn't much reason to replace a bolt other than cosmetics or rot unless it cannot be re-threaded or has been overly torque stressed. ​\\ This is a condition in which, on the way to final torque, the bolt begins to stretch or twist from it's protruding center. \\ (but not threading any longer into the hole as Evo cylinder head bolts can do((hippysmack from the XLFORUM))
   * There are different methods to tapping / chasing holes depending on the situation. ​   * There are different methods to tapping / chasing holes depending on the situation. ​
-    * A through hole is what it says, it goes in one side and out the other of the piece you are working on. Don't stop turning the tap until it has gone in far enough to reach past the bottom, given the chamfered end of the tap itself. +    * A through hole is what it says, it goes in one side and out the other of the piece you are working on. \\ Don't stop turning the tap until it has gone in far enough to reach past the bottom, given the chamfered end of the tap itself. 
-    * A blind hole is simply one that does not go through all the way like a 3/4" thick piece of metal with a 3/8" deep hole in it. Once you run the tap into it, you can't see the bottom , thus it is a blind hole. Chasing a blind hole can be more tedious. As the tap reaches farther in, you aren't quite sure where it will bottom out so you have to use caution when the tap starts turning tighter. Turning past the bottom ​will always ​end up cracking your piece or breaking the tap off in the hole. Turn in about a quarter turn, back out a half turn, run it in until it stops or gets resistance, go in about another quarter turn and back out all the way. This helps gather the shavings/ trash into the flutes of the tap and away from the threads- which creates resistance. Clean the tap, blow out the hole of all metal shavings/ trash/ gasket material, then go back in.  +    * A blind hole is simply one that does not go through all the way like a 3/4" thick piece of metal with a 3/8" deep hole in it. \\ Once you run the tap into it, you can't see the bottom , thus it is a blind hole. \\ Chasing a blind hole can be more tedious. ​\\ As the tap reaches farther in, you aren't quite sure where it will bottom out so you have to use caution when the tap starts turning tighter. ​\\ Turning past the bottom ​can end up cracking your piece or breaking the tap off in the hole. \\ Turn in about a quarter turn, back out a half turn, run it in until it stops or gets resistance, go in about another quarter turn and back out all the way. \\ This helps gather the shavings/ trash into the flutes of the tap and away from the threads- which creates resistance. ​\\ Clean the tap, blow out the hole of all metal shavings/ trash/ gasket material, then go back in.  
-  * You'll get a feel for it and when it hits bottom, you'll feel that to be harder or more of an end of the journey feeling. All the while your using cutting oil which can gather in the bottom of the hole and or mix with any trash in the hole. Truthfully this is the same procedure for tapping any hole as far as touch and feel. If this is not cleaned out before going back in with the tap, it can hydro lock ((Tom from the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1959533))the end of the tap (pressurize the area between the tap end and the bottom of the hole) which not always but can stress the piece from the pressurized area and cause cracks or holes especially if you are using a flat ended tap with no tapered point on the end. If you see oil seepage coming up from the sides of the tap, STOP, unscrew ​it, clean the tap and the hole before going any further. +  * You'll get a feel for it and when it hits bottom, you'll feel that to be harder or more of an end of the journey feeling. ​\\ All the while your using cutting oil which can gather in the bottom of the hole and or mix with any trash in the hole. \\ Truthfully this is the same procedure for tapping any hole as far as touch and feel. \\ If this is not cleaned out before going back in with the tap, it can hydro lock ((Tom from the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1959533))the end of the tap (pressurize the area between the tap end and the bottom of the hole) \\ Which, ​not always butcan stress the piece from the pressurized area and cause cracks or holes especially if you are using a flat ended tap with no tapered point on the end. \\ If you see oil seepage coming up from the sides of the tap, STOP. \\ Unscrew ​it, clean the tap and the hole before going any further. 
-  * I will typically ​send a pin needle or the like down to the bottom of the hole to see if there is any embedded crap at the bottom. ((ReddTigger from the XLFORUM ​ [[http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​postid=5373930#​post5373930]]))+  * You can send a pin needle or the like down to the bottom of the hole to see if there is any embedded crap at the bottom. ((ReddTigger from the XLFORUM ​ [[http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​postid=5373930#​post5373930]]))
  
 ===== Thread File ===== ===== Thread File =====
   * This tool is a cross between a tap, a die and a file.   * This tool is a cross between a tap, a die and a file.
     * The end part can be used to put down inside a hole and sort of scrape clean the thread of the same pitch as the tool.     * The end part can be used to put down inside a hole and sort of scrape clean the thread of the same pitch as the tool.
-    * The side can be used like a file on damaged bolt threads to get them back to form. On a special thread like the end of a crankshaft that has a large diameter fine pitched thread that no standard die will fit. Use a thread file with the same number of teeth per inch. ((Hopper from the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=614423&​highlight=tap+die))+    * The side can be used like a file on damaged bolt threads to get them back to form. \\ On a special thread like the end of a crankshaft that has a large diameter fine pitched thread that no standard die will fit. \\ Use a thread file with the same number of teeth per inch. ((Hopper from the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=614423&​highlight=tap+die))
  
 ====== Installing New Threaded Inserts ====== ====== Installing New Threaded Inserts ======
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 A jig (or guide) may come in a kit with the insert to help with that or they can be purchased or machined separately. \\ A jig (or guide) may come in a kit with the insert to help with that or they can be purchased or machined separately. \\
-{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:​time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_15_by_reddtigger.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1704056))+{{techtalk:evo:engmech:​time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_15_by_reddtigger.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((photo by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1704056))
  
  
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 |This drill guide was machined for use on a cylinder stud hole reair ((photos by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1704056))|| |This drill guide was machined for use on a cylinder stud hole reair ((photos by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1704056))||
-|{{techtalk:​ref:genmsr:​time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_2_by_reddtigger.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|{{techtalk:​ref:genmsr:​time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_3_by_reddtigger.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|+|{{techtalk:​evo:engmech:​time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_2_by_reddtigger.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|{{techtalk:​evo:engmech:​time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_3_by_reddtigger.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|
  
 ===== Using a Stop Collar on a Drill Bit ===== ===== Using a Stop Collar on a Drill Bit =====
-Stop collars can be purchased at most hardware stores and function as a depth gauge for the drill bit. \\+Stop collars ​(drill stop) can be purchased at most hardware stores and function as a depth gauge for the drill bit. \\
 The collar is attached to the bit by a set screw. \\ The collar is attached to the bit by a set screw. \\
 Once installed, in theory, you can't drill past the collar which sets the depth of the bit. \\ Once installed, in theory, you can't drill past the collar which sets the depth of the bit. \\
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 ===== Helicoil Inserts ===== ===== Helicoil Inserts =====
  
-  * Engineering supply, auto parts and hardware places sell several kinds of insert kits that you fix this with, eg Helicoil, Keensert, Timsert etc. +  * Engineering supply, auto parts and hardware places sell several kinds of insert kits. \\(I.E. ​Helicoil, Keensert, Timsert etc) 
-  * A helicoil is a small stainless alloy steel spiral. The inner diameter is the right thread to match the original bolt. The outside diameter has a larger thread and the kit has the right size drill bit included. +  * A helicoil is a small stainless alloy steel spiral. ​\\ The inner diameter is the right thread to match the original bolt. \\ The outside diameter has a larger thread and the kit has the right size drill bit included ​for the OD pre-drll size
-    * Carefully drill out the stripped hole with the 'kit supplied'​ drill bit. Use a try square to make sure you are drilling square to the surface, and get a buddy to eyeball it as you drill. +    * Carefully drill out the stripped hole with the 'kit supplied'​ drill bit. \\ Use a square to make sure you are drilling square to the surface, and get a buddy to eyeball it as you drill. 
-    * Using the supplied tapping bit in the kit, thread the larger hole you have drilled. Again use an engineer'​s square to make sure you have it square as it goes in. If you have no engineer'​s square, use the corner of a book cover or something you know is 90 degrees. Check in two directions, back and forth and side to side. Use appropriate cutting oil or plenty of WD40 if tapping into aluminum. +    * Using the supplied tapping bit in the kit, thread the larger hole you have drilled. ​\\ Again use an engineer'​s square to make sure you have it square as it goes in. \\ If you have no engineer'​s square, use the corner of a book cover or something you know is 90 degrees. ​\\ Check in two directions, back and forth and side to side. \\ Use appropriate cutting oil or plenty of WD40 if tapping into aluminum. 
-    * Always turn the tap about half a turn in, then quarter of a turn back outso the cutting motion is kind of back and forth to clear the swarf chips off the cutting edges. +    * Always turn the tap about half a turn in, then quarter of a turn back out. \\ (so the cutting motion is kind of back and forth to clear the swarf chips off the cutting edges) 
-    * Use a proper tap wrench to turn the tap. Using a Crescent wrench on a tap is a good way to get it crooked or even break it. Even in a tight corner, you can get tap wrenches with a sliding cross bar handle. Although, if really desperate in a tight spot , I have used my 1/4 drive socket set ratchet handle with a socket that fits the tap shank. This should only be done when there is absolutely no alternative. The proper tap wrench will save you much heartache. +    * Use a proper tap wrench to turn the tap. Using a Crescent wrench on a tap is a good way to get it crooked or even break it. \\ Even in a tight corner, you can get tap wrenches with a sliding cross bar handle. ​\\ Although, if really desperate in a tight spot , you can use a 1/4 drive ratchet handle with a socket that fits the tap shank. ​\\ This should only be done when there is absolutely no alternative. ​\\ The proper tap wrench will save you much heartache. 
-    * Make sure the thread is tapped deep enough for the whole insert to fit in the hole. Inserts can be bought in several depths.  +    * Make sure the thread is tapped deep enough for the whole insert to fit in the hole. \\ Inserts can be bought in several depths.  
-    * Then clean the new thread and the insert thoroughly with carb cleaner, rubbing alchohol or Loctite cleaner/​primer. ​I always like to put red Loctite on helicoils ​so they stay put forever and don't screw out with the bolt. Put the Loctite ​on the outer diameter threads only, so they lock to the hole. +    * Then clean the new thread and the insert thoroughly with carb cleaner, rubbing alchohol or Loctite cleaner/​primer. ​\\ Use red Loctite on helicoils on the outer diameter threads only, so they lock to the hole. 
-    * Then screw the insert in with the special tool in the kit. Then break off the tang of the insert, either with the special tool in the kit, a punch and hammer or long nose pliers.  +    * Then screw the insert in with the special tool in the kit. Break off the tang of the insert, either with the special tool in the kit, a punch and hammer or long nose pliers.  
-    * Wipe off excess Loctite. Grease ​up the bolt so it wont stick to the loctite, and screw it in to make sure all is good.+    * Wipe off excess Loctite. ​\\ Grease the bolt so it wont stick to the loctite, and screw it in to make sure all is good.
     *  Then take it out and let the loctite cure overnight.     *  Then take it out and let the loctite cure overnight.
     * This repair actually makes a stronger thread than an original aluminium thread. ​ ((Hopper from the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=614423&​highlight=tap+die))     * This repair actually makes a stronger thread than an original aluminium thread. ​ ((Hopper from the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=614423&​highlight=tap+die))
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-==== Time-Sert repair on engine case using drill press ==== 
-Article by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM ((http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1704056)) \\ 
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