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--- techtalk:ref:oil01 [2019/06/15 20:29]
hippysmack [Case Drains Explained]
+++ techtalk:ref:oil01 [2023/12/20 02:34]
hippysmack [Used Oil Analysis Charts]
@@ Line 3: / Line 3: @@
 ====== Engine Oil Change, Oil Specs, Aftermarkets and Comparisons ======
 === Further Oil Study ===
-**For a more in depth study on oil** manufacturing, additives, specifications, etc., click here [[techtalk:ref:oil01#Getting More Technical about Engine Oil]]
+**For a more in depth study on oil** manufacturing, additives, specifications, etc., click here [[techtalk:ref:oil01#Getting More Technical about Engine Oil]] \\
+\\
+{{:techtalk:ref:oil:oil_cans_by_johngoober.jpg?nolink&300|}} ((photos by Ebay seller, johngoober, [[https://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?item=144998065911&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2562&_ssn=johngoober|Link to Ebay Store]]  )) \\
 ====== Checking Oil Level ======
@@ Line 48: / Line 52: @@
 Regular oil changes should suffice. ((bustert of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1162026)) \\
+**There is no way for gas to get into the engine other than thru the carb and past the float**. \\
+(unless you have an enemy pouring gas in the oil tank) \\
 A problem with gas mixing with engine oil commonly starts at one place, the gas tank. \\
 Most commonly it comes from not returning the petcock to the 'off' position after shutdown. \\
-Gas seeps from the tank into the petcock, then the cylinders and seeps in between the rings and down into the crankcase, and the oil. \\
+Gas seeps from the tank into the petcock, to the carb, past the float, into the cylinders, inbetween the rings and down into the crankcase, and the oil. \\
   * Other situations can also attribute to gas getting into the oil supply.
@@ Line 130: / Line 136: @@
   * If you are riding in the city, you fire up your bike in the morning, drive 5 miles to work, then the ride back home in the evening \\ (while also sitting in a traffic jam) \\ You put a much larger amount of specific stress on the engine and on the oil than long distance rides on a highway.
   * It is not unrealistic to assume that if you do not reach the oil change interval specified in miles within 12 months, \\ then you are probably making these short trips and 1 mile of yours count like 5 or more (stress-wise) compared to the average. \\ So limiting the oil change interval in time as well as miles makes sure that the oil (that receives higher specific stress) gets changed sooner.((http://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/about-oil-drain-intervals.php))
+====== Should You Drain the Engine or Oil Tank? ======
+On a normal oil change, none of us can drain All the oil out. When we drain the oil, we are only draining the oil tank and not the engine. \\
+Do Not drain the oil until you've taken the bike on a 15-20 min ride. This will allow the oil to be scavenged by the pump to the oil tank. \\
+It'll also suspend debris in the oil instead of it laying on the bottom and not being drained. \\
+In gerotor oil pumps, the return side is much bigger than the feed side. \\
+So firing up the bike sends the oil accumulated in the sump back to the tank faster than more oil can accumulate in the engine. \\
+This fills the oil level back to where it should be. See also, [[techtalk:ref:oil01#overfilling_the_oil_tank|Overfilling the Oil Tank]] above. \\
+The drawing below shows the oil path for 1992-1997 Sportsters. All mini-sump engines are the same as far as oil scavenging goes. \\
+The yellow portion in the bottom represents oil in the sump waiting to be picked up by the oil pump. \\
+If you follow the path out the engine, the oil is sucked uphill from the sump to the oil pump. \\
+This is why you need to run the engine until the oil is at operating temp before draining it. \\
+Else you'll fill the line on the dipstick, pick up the oil in the sump upon startup and blow out it the breathers. \\
+{{:techtalk:evo:oil:92-97_sportster_feed-return_oil_paths_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}} ((drawing by Hippysmack)) \\
 ====== Changing / Draining Engine Oil ======
@@ Line 174: / Line 201: @@
   * Then, shut it off and add oil to the correct level if needed. \\ (most fill to halfway between the add and full line of the dipstick, not to completely FULL) \\ If you fill it completely full you may get oil coming out of the breathers into the air filter especially if you run for long periods at high rpms. ((shanneba of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2071954&highlight=oil+tank+pressure&page=2))
-====== Case Drains Explained ======
+====== Sportster Drain Plugs Explained ======
 **The dreaded case drain failure**: \\
 -76 cases are notorious for cracked drain holes and thread damage around the sump drain. \\
@@ Line 182: / Line 210: @@
-===== 76 and Earlier Cases =====
+===== 57-76 Cases =====
   * **The plug on the bottom left of the photo is the primary drain plug**. ((Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=806833&highlight=drilling+tapping+drain&page=2))
@@ Line 191: / Line 219: @@
     * (It has been said that ) this plug was never meant to be an actual case drain (in street engines). It's purpose has been somewhat of a debate. ((piniongear of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=806833&highlight=drilling+tapping+drain)) See more below.
-|{{:techtalk:ih:engmech:ih_drain_plugs_by_shadowdog500.jpg?direct&400|}}|
+|{{techtalk:ih:oil:ih_drain_plugs_by_shadowdog500.jpg?direct&400|}}|
 |  Drain plugs in a '75 case ((photo by Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=806833&highlight=drilling+tapping+drain&page=2))  |
@@ Line 216: / Line 244: @@
   * The same thing can happen to the threads. They can break free upon removal of the plug for the same reasoning above.
-|{{:techtalk:ih:engmech:1967_crankcase_drain_1_by_ss396.jpg?direct&400|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:engmech:1967_crankcase_drain_2_by_ss396.jpg?direct&400|}}|
+|{{techtalk:ih:oil:1967_crankcase_drain_1_by_ss396.jpg?direct&400|}}|{{techtalk:ih:oil:1967_crankcase_drain_2_by_ss396.jpg?direct&400|}}|
 |  Crankcase Drain Plug on a 1967 XLCH  ((photo by ss396 og the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1864035&highlight=stripped+threads&page=5))  ||
@@ Line 225: / Line 253: @@
     * If you use Teflon tape, you'll need to reduce the torque applied to the plug to keep from overloading the threads with wrench force.
-===== Oil leaking around crankcase oil drain plug =====
+==== Oil leaking around crankcase oil drain plug ====
   * 1st thing to do is to make sure its the plug. It can be the case seam near the plug. If it is the latter, don't mess with the plug. Look for a weeping case seam and cracks between the plug threads and the case seam. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1864035&highlight=Ironhead+Crankcase+Drain+Plug))
-|{{:techtalk:ih:engmech:ih_oil_drain_plug_1_by_ss396.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:engmech:ih_oil_drain_plug_2_by_ss396.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:engmech:ih_oil_drain_plug_3_by_ss396.jpg?direct&300|}}|
+|{{techtalk:ih:oil:ih_oil_drain_plug_1_by_ss396.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ih:oil:ih_oil_drain_plug_2_by_ss396.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ih:oil:ih_oil_drain_plug_3_by_ss396.jpg?direct&300|}}|
 |Leak around oil drain plug. ((photo by ss396 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1864035&highlight=Ironhead+Crankcase+Drain+Plug)) In this instance, the case seam appears to be weeping oil.|||
@@ Line 238: / Line 266: @@
   * This one is cracked across to the edge of the case.
-|{{:techtalk:ih:engmech:1968_drain_plug_crack_by_nakina.jpg?direct&300|}}|
+|{{techtalk:ih:oil:1968_drain_plug_crack_by_nakina.jpg?direct&300|}}|
 |  Cracked case at the crankcase drain plug on a 1968 XLCH  ((photo by nakina of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1974050&highlight=stripped+threads))  |
-===== L69-E71 cases =====
+===== L69-E71 Cases =====
 Late 1969, all 1970 and some early 71 cases came with no motor drains from the factory. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1595420)) \\
 |1969 XLCH with no sump drains. ((photo by ironheadjunkie of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1595420))|
-|{{:techtalk:ih:engmech:69_xlch_2_by_ironheadjunkie.jpg?direct&300|}}|
+|{{techtalk:ih:oil:69_xlch_2_by_ironheadjunkie.jpg?direct&300|}}|
 ===== 77 and Later Cases =====
-The "drain plug" on the bottom of the case is simply a threaded plug that caps the oil scavenging passageway. ((bobbystat of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1950691)) \\
+The "drain plug" on the bottom of the case is either a pressed or threaded plug that caps the oil scavenging rifling hole. ((bobbystat of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1950691)) \\
 The MoCo drilled from the bottom of the case to the horizontal oil passage in the gearcase. \\
 This connects the crankcase sump oil to the scavenge port of the oil pump and the hole is plugged on the bottom. \\
@@ Line 261: / Line 289: @@
 |  Case & Tranny Drain Plugs on a 1978 engine ((photo by IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=806833&highlight=drilling+tapping+drain&page=2))  |  Case Drain Plug on a 1977 engine ((photos by bobbystat of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1950691))  ||
-|{{:techtalk:ih:engmech:1978_drain_plugs_by_ironmick.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:engmech:1977_case_drain_plug_1_by_bobbystat.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:engmech:1977_case_drain_plug_2_by_bobbystat.jpg?direct&300|}}|
+|{{:techtalk:ih:engmech:1978_drain_plugs_by_ironmick.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ih:oil:1977_case_drain_plug_1_by_bobbystat.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ih:oil:1977_case_drain_plug_2_by_bobbystat.jpg?direct&300|}}|
-===== Why are metal particles in the oil? =====
+====== Why are metal particles in the oil? ======
 There will normally be a certain amount of metal 'mush' in the oil tank as engine parts wear. \\
 The most (as in normal wear) will be evident at the first oil change after a fresh engine build. \\
@@ Line 293: / Line 321: @@
 ====== Choosing an Engine Oil ======
 ==== What Kind or Brand of Oil To Use for a Sportster ====
+{{:techtalk:ref:oil:55_gallon_oil_drum_by_jonesl.jpg?direct&200 |}}
-  * First answer is to use the HD recommendations in the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your year model. \\ The chart below shows some recommendations for the use of HD oils. \\ And you can contact your nearest HD dealer for current recommendations on the oil they are selling for your ride. \\ See also [[techtalk:ref:oil01#Choosing an Engine Oil Other Than HD Brand]]
+  * ((photo by JonesL of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5806185)) First answer is to use the HD recommendations in the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your year model. \\ The chart below shows some recommendations for the use of HD oils. \\ And you can contact your nearest HD dealer for current recommendations on the oil they are selling for your ride. \\ See also [[techtalk:ref:oil01#Choosing an Engine Oil Other Than HD Brand]]
   * The MoCo has a vested interest in keeping your engine healthy and knows exactly what oil their engines like. \\ Plus, no one ever damaged an engine by changing its oil too often. \\ If you want to keep your engine healthy, regular oil changes using the recommended weight and quality of oil is the easiest way to do it.
   * **Development of Genuine Harley Davidson Motorcycle Oil**. ((MMI Fact Sheet on the Development  of Harley Davidson Genuine Motorcycle Oil pg 1)) \\ In the late 70's, complaints were received by the MoCo from recreation and touring riders experiencing valve sticking problems.
@@ Line 352: / Line 380: @@
 ^                     |HD Medium Light|40F to 60F|
 ^                     |HD Regular Heavy|60F and up|
-^                     |HDExtra Heavy Grade 60|severe engine operating conditions >85F|
+^                     |HD Premium II Extra Heavy Grade 60 (API SF) ((HD P&A Bulletin #186 dated July 1, 1982))|severe engine operating conditions >85F|
 ^Year Model^Harley Davidson Type Oil^Viscosity^HD Rating^Ambient Temperature F^Cold Weather Starts Below 50F^
@@ Line 543: / Line 571: @@
 === Phosphorus ===
 Phosphorus is a key component for wear protection in an engine and 1600ppm (parts per million) used to be the standard for phosphorus in engine oil. In 1996 that was dropped to 800ppm and then more recently to 400ppm - a quarter of the original spec. Valvetrains and their components are not especially cheap to replace and this drop in phosphorus content has been a problem for many engines. So why was the level dropped? Money. Next to lead, it's the second most destructive substance to shove through a catalytic converter. The US government mandated a 150,000 mile lifetime on catalytic converters and the quickest way to do that was to drop phosphorus levels and bugger the valve train problem.
 === Boron Additives in Oil ===
+By MolaKule  ((hexnut from the XLFORUM  https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/lubrication-and-lubricants/181135-oil-testing-reading?t=1949300&highlight=ZDDPlus))
-By MolaKule  ((hexnut from the XLFORUM  http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1949300&highlight=ZDDPlus))
   * This white paper discusses the mechanics and chemistry of Boron Compounds as additives in Motor Oils, Gear Lubes, and Greases.
@@ Line 591: / Line 614: @@
     * **Direct Reading Ferrograph**: The DR unit separates wear debris from the lubricant according to size. The WPC, summation of DL and DS, provides a trendable quantity for monitoring the wear condition of a piece of equipment. Fluctuations in the WPC suggest an abnormal condition in the component or possible contamination.((https://www.tricocorp.com/services/oil-analysis/used-oil-analysis/))
     * Chlorine, Emulsified oil, Grease, On-Spec Waste Oil, PCB analysis (full), PCB screen, Soot, Oil + % Ash, Solvent, Specific Gravity, Sulfur, Total Halogens (TOX), Total Halogens Screen,  Viscosity Index,
   * **The spectral analysis process itself isn't 'perfect' science**. The oil is sparked (or “burned”) between a rotating carbon disc electrode and a carbon rod electrode. The sample is placed in a sample cap, the disc is partially immersed in the oil sample and the disc rotates as the burn proceeds. ((http://www.spectrosci.com/default/assets/File/SpectroSci_OilAnalysisHandbook_FINAL_2014-08.pdf))
@@ Line 632: / Line 654: @@
   * Click on a chart to enlarge.
-|{{techtalk:ref:raw:parrotheads_uoa.jpg?direct&100|}}((Courtesy of parrothead from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1995942&highlight=oil+analysis))|{{techtalk:ref:raw:2016sportstertransoilreports_by_shanneba.jpg?direct&100|}}((2016 Sportster primary/ transmission oil UOA by shanneba of the XLFORUM))|
+|{{techtalk:ref:raw:parrotheads_uoa.jpg?direct&100|}}((Courtesy of parrothead from the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/rubber-mount-sportster-motorcycle-talk-2004-2006/186753-oil-analysis-of-high-mileage-2006-sportster?t=1995942&highlight=oil+analysis))|{{techtalk:ref:raw:2016sportstertransoilreports_by_shanneba.jpg?direct&100|}}((2016 Sportster primary/ transmission oil UOA by shanneba of the XLFORUM))|
 |2006 Sportster engine oil \\ UOA at 200,000 miles|2016 Sportster primary/ trans \\ oil UOA at 15,000 miles|

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