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techtalk:ref:oil01 [2019/06/15 22:30] hippysmack ↷ Links adapted because of a move operation |
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| ====== Engine Oil Change, Oil Specs, Aftermarkets and Comparisons ====== | ====== Engine Oil Change, Oil Specs, Aftermarkets and Comparisons ====== | ||
| === Further Oil Study === | === Further Oil Study === | ||
| - | **For a more in depth study on oil** manufacturing, additives, specifications, etc., click here [[techtalk:ref:oil01#Getting More Technical about Engine Oil]] | + | **For a more in depth study on oil** manufacturing, additives, specifications, etc., click here [[techtalk:ref:oil01#Getting More Technical about Engine Oil]] \\ |
| + | \\ | ||
| + | {{:techtalk:ref:oil:oil_cans_by_johngoober.jpg?nolink&300|}} ((photos by Ebay seller, johngoober, [[https://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?item=144998065911&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2562&_ssn=johngoober|Link to Ebay Store]] )) \\ | ||
| ====== Checking Oil Level ====== | ====== Checking Oil Level ====== | ||
| - | + | A forum member once reported that he went and flogged his buddies 06 bike. ((NRHS Sales of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/vendors/nrhs-high-performance/33374-04s-and-up-and-oil-use/page20#post724787)) \\ | |
| - | A forum member once reported that he went and flogged his buddies 06 bike. ((NRHS Sales of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=754838#post754838)) \\ | + | |
| When he parked it, he immediately checked the oil level and it was about a quart down. \\ | When he parked it, he immediately checked the oil level and it was about a quart down. \\ | ||
| After a while he restarted it and ran it for just a bit before checking the oil again. \\ | After a while he restarted it and ran it for just a bit before checking the oil again. \\ | ||
| Line 13: | Line 14: | ||
| So if your bike is in a current state of being wet sumped, it would definitely cause a false dipstick reading. \\ | So if your bike is in a current state of being wet sumped, it would definitely cause a false dipstick reading. \\ | ||
| See more on [[techtalk:ref:oil10#refoiling_lubrication|Wet sumping]] in the REF section of the Sportsterpedia. \\ | See more on [[techtalk:ref:oil10#refoiling_lubrication|Wet sumping]] in the REF section of the Sportsterpedia. \\ | ||
| + | |||
| ===== Overfilling the Oil Tank ===== | ===== Overfilling the Oil Tank ===== | ||
| This is a common mistake. \\ | This is a common mistake. \\ | ||
| Line 46: | Line 48: | ||
| But this usually boils out on a long ride. \\ | But this usually boils out on a long ride. \\ | ||
| Short rides are killers on blow-by and water accumulations. \\ | Short rides are killers on blow-by and water accumulations. \\ | ||
| - | Regular oil changes should suffice. ((bustert of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1162026)) \\ | + | Regular oil changes should suffice. ((bustert of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/119568-gas-in-oil-maybe?t=1162026)) \\ |
| + | **There is no way for gas to get into the engine other than thru the carb and past the float**. \\ | ||
| + | (unless you have an enemy pouring gas in the oil tank) \\ | ||
| A problem with gas mixing with engine oil commonly starts at one place, the gas tank. \\ | A problem with gas mixing with engine oil commonly starts at one place, the gas tank. \\ | ||
| Most commonly it comes from not returning the petcock to the 'off' position after shutdown. \\ | Most commonly it comes from not returning the petcock to the 'off' position after shutdown. \\ | ||
| - | Gas seeps from the tank into the petcock, then the cylinders and seeps in between the rings and down into the crankcase, and the oil. \\ | + | Gas seeps from the tank into the petcock, to the carb, past the float, into the cylinders, inbetween the rings and down into the crankcase, and the oil. \\ |
| * Other situations can also attribute to gas getting into the oil supply. | * Other situations can also attribute to gas getting into the oil supply. | ||
| Line 66: | Line 70: | ||
| Carb vacuum actuates the diaphragm and allows gas to gravity flow thru the petcock. \\ | Carb vacuum actuates the diaphragm and allows gas to gravity flow thru the petcock. \\ | ||
| - | Don't rely on the vacuum petcock alone, turn the gas off when the bike is not being ridden. ((dabronco of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=25984)) \\ | + | Don't rely on the vacuum petcock alone, turn the gas off when the bike is not being ridden. ((dabronco of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-intake-and-exhaust/sportster-motorcycle-air-intake-carburetor-efi-fuel-and-exhaust/15529-gas-in-oil?t=25984)) \\ |
| It's better for them to be turned regularly anyway, as the rubber parts will bond together if they don't get lubed with gas and exercised once in a while. \\ | It's better for them to be turned regularly anyway, as the rubber parts will bond together if they don't get lubed with gas and exercised once in a while. \\ | ||
| **Inspect the carburetor**. \\ | **Inspect the carburetor**. \\ | ||
| - | If the over flow hose is pinched off, gas will flow out the main jet if the float is set wrong or the needle valve is bad. ((nikki of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1162026)) \\ | + | If the over flow hose is pinched off, gas will flow out the main jet if the float is set wrong or the needle valve is bad. ((nikki of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/119568-gas-in-oil-maybe?t=1162026)) \\ |
| - | You could try pulling off the float bowl and putting in a new float needle and generally clean out the gunk. ((hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1162026&page=2)) \\ | + | You could try pulling off the float bowl and putting in a new float needle and generally clean out the gunk. ((hopper of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/119568-gas-in-oil-maybe/page2?t=1162026&page=2)) \\ |
| - | A small piece of trash can get between the needle and seat (where the float attaches). ((Dakin Engineering of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=25984)) \\ | + | A small piece of trash can get between the needle and seat (where the float attaches). ((Dakin Engineering of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-intake-and-exhaust/sportster-motorcycle-air-intake-carburetor-efi-fuel-and-exhaust/15529-gas-in-oil?t=25984)) \\ |
| This will let a trickle down the intake and into the cylinder. \\ | This will let a trickle down the intake and into the cylinder. \\ | ||
| An overly rich condition can also lead to gas contamination in the oil. \\ | An overly rich condition can also lead to gas contamination in the oil. \\ | ||
| Check your air / fuel mixture. \\ | Check your air / fuel mixture. \\ | ||
| - | An air screw (like on HSR42s) will be on the air cleaner side of the venturi (slide). ((chrishajer of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=384649#post384649)) \\ | + | An air screw (like on HSR42s) will be on the air cleaner side of the venturi (slide). ((chrishajer of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-intake-and-exhaust/sportster-motorcycle-air-intake-carburetor-efi-fuel-and-exhaust/17146-ok-carb-tuer-guys-hsr-tuning-jetted-up-still-shows-lean-on-the-plugs#post468574)) \\ |
| A fuel screw (like on CV) will be on the engine side of the venturi. \\ | A fuel screw (like on CV) will be on the engine side of the venturi. \\ | ||
| Air screws cut off air, so they make the mixture richer when you turn them in (restrict an air passage). \\ | Air screws cut off air, so they make the mixture richer when you turn them in (restrict an air passage). \\ | ||
| Fuel screws cut off fuel when you turn them in because they shut off a fuel passage. \\ | Fuel screws cut off fuel when you turn them in because they shut off a fuel passage. \\ | ||
| - | |||
| **Drain the diluted oil, remove / flush the oil tank and replace with fresh oil**. \\ | **Drain the diluted oil, remove / flush the oil tank and replace with fresh oil**. \\ | ||
| Line 107: | Line 110: | ||
| The gas can swell the seals and cause leaks. \\ | The gas can swell the seals and cause leaks. \\ | ||
| - | **Always turn the petcock 'off' when the bike is not being ridden to avoid the inevitable**. ((GA_Ironhead of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5739538#post5739538)) \\ | + | **Always turn the petcock 'off' when the bike is not being ridden to avoid the inevitable**. ((GA_Ironhead of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/196377-interesting-sump-plug-discovery/page3#post4286851)) \\ |
| If that fails, always turn off the ignition. You don't want accidental sparks while draining the gas out. \\ | If that fails, always turn off the ignition. You don't want accidental sparks while draining the gas out. \\ | ||
| - | |||
| - | |||
| - | |||
| ====== When To Change Oil ====== | ====== When To Change Oil ====== | ||
| Line 130: | Line 130: | ||
| * If you are riding in the city, you fire up your bike in the morning, drive 5 miles to work, then the ride back home in the evening \\ (while also sitting in a traffic jam) \\ You put a much larger amount of specific stress on the engine and on the oil than long distance rides on a highway. | * If you are riding in the city, you fire up your bike in the morning, drive 5 miles to work, then the ride back home in the evening \\ (while also sitting in a traffic jam) \\ You put a much larger amount of specific stress on the engine and on the oil than long distance rides on a highway. | ||
| * It is not unrealistic to assume that if you do not reach the oil change interval specified in miles within 12 months, \\ then you are probably making these short trips and 1 mile of yours count like 5 or more (stress-wise) compared to the average. \\ So limiting the oil change interval in time as well as miles makes sure that the oil (that receives higher specific stress) gets changed sooner.((http://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/about-oil-drain-intervals.php)) | * It is not unrealistic to assume that if you do not reach the oil change interval specified in miles within 12 months, \\ then you are probably making these short trips and 1 mile of yours count like 5 or more (stress-wise) compared to the average. \\ So limiting the oil change interval in time as well as miles makes sure that the oil (that receives higher specific stress) gets changed sooner.((http://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/about-oil-drain-intervals.php)) | ||
| + | |||
| + | ====== Should You Drain the Engine or Oil Tank? ====== | ||
| + | On a normal oil change, none of us can drain All the oil out. When we drain the oil, we are only draining the oil tank and not the engine. \\ | ||
| + | |||
| + | Do Not drain the oil until you've taken the bike on a 15-20 min ride. This will allow the oil to be scavenged by the pump to the oil tank. \\ | ||
| + | It'll also suspend debris in the oil instead of it laying on the bottom and not being drained. \\ | ||
| + | In gerotor oil pumps, the return side is much bigger than the feed side. \\ | ||
| + | So firing up the bike sends the oil accumulated in the sump back to the tank faster than more oil can accumulate in the engine. \\ | ||
| + | This fills the oil level back to where it should be. See also, [[techtalk:ref:oil01#overfilling_the_oil_tank|Overfilling the Oil Tank]] above. \\ | ||
| + | |||
| + | The drawing below shows the oil path for 1992-1997 Sportsters. All mini-sump engines are the same as far as oil scavenging goes. \\ | ||
| + | |||
| + | The yellow portion in the bottom represents oil in the sump waiting to be picked up by the oil pump. \\ | ||
| + | If you follow the path out the engine, the oil is sucked uphill from the sump to the oil pump. \\ | ||
| + | This is why you need to run the engine until the oil is at operating temp before draining it. \\ | ||
| + | Else you'll fill the line on the dipstick, pick up the oil in the sump upon startup and blow out it the breathers. \\ | ||
| + | |||
| + | {{:techtalk:evo:oil:92-97_sportster_feed-return_oil_paths_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}} ((drawing by Hippysmack)) \\ | ||
| ====== Changing / Draining Engine Oil ====== | ====== Changing / Draining Engine Oil ====== | ||
| Line 141: | Line 159: | ||
| * Remove the oil tank drain plug and allow the tank to drain completely. | * Remove the oil tank drain plug and allow the tank to drain completely. | ||
| * The drain hose from the oil tank is capped off below the tank. | * The drain hose from the oil tank is capped off below the tank. | ||
| - | * Loosen the hose clamp, drain the oil, put the hose back onto the frame plug and tighten the clamp. ((IXL2Relax of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1232772&highlight=frame+clamp&page=47)) | + | * Loosen the hose clamp, drain the oil, put the hose back onto the frame plug and tighten the clamp. ((IXL2Relax of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-general-discussion-and-problems/124047-getting-out-the-wrenches-was-broken-exhaust-stud/page47?t=1232772&highlight=frame+clamp&page=47)) |
| * You can use a Visegrip or hemostat to close the hose above the stud, slip it off the stud. | * You can use a Visegrip or hemostat to close the hose above the stud, slip it off the stud. | ||
| * Then open the line and let the oil drain into a catch pan / can. \\ (See above link for oil hose drain locations per year model) | * Then open the line and let the oil drain into a catch pan / can. \\ (See above link for oil hose drain locations per year model) | ||
| |{{:techtalk:ref:tools:oil_drain_container_by_sep69.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |{{:techtalk:ref:tools:oil_drain_container_by_sep69.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| - | |Collect the oil, haul it to your nearest auto parts \\ store for recycling. ((photo by sep69 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1332901))| | + | |Collect the oil, haul it to your nearest auto parts \\ store for recycling. ((photo by sep69 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-motor-engine/sportster-motorcycle-engine-conversions/128452-mark-s-883-to-1250-conversion?t=1332901))| |
| **Clean the lifter screen (86-91 only)**: \\ | **Clean the lifter screen (86-91 only)**: \\ | ||
| Line 160: | Line 178: | ||
| * Allow time for oil to soak into the filter element. | * Allow time for oil to soak into the filter element. | ||
| - | | Add 4oz of oil to the filter before installing it. ((photos by Erik of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=320342&page=50)) ||| | + | | Add 4oz of oil to the filter before installing it. ((photos by Erik of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/frame-mount-evo-sportster-talk-1986-2003-models/58938-totalled-my-engine/page50?t=320342&page=50)) ||| |
| |{{:techtalk:ref:oil:oil_filter_change_1_by_erik.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:oil:oil_filter_change_2_by_erik.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:oil:oil_filter_change_3_by_erik.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |{{:techtalk:ref:oil:oil_filter_change_1_by_erik.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:oil:oil_filter_change_2_by_erik.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:oil:oil_filter_change_3_by_erik.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| - | | Lube the outer gasket, place a rag under the filter mount and install the filter. ((photos by Erik of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=320342&page=50)) ||| | + | | Lube the outer gasket, place a rag under the filter mount and install the filter. ((photos by Erik of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/frame-mount-evo-sportster-talk-1986-2003-models/58938-totalled-my-engine/page50?t=320342&page=50)) ||| |
| |{{:techtalk:ref:oil:oil_filter_change_4_by_erik.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:oil:oil_filter_change_5_by_erik.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:oil:oil_filter_change_6_by_erik.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |{{:techtalk:ref:oil:oil_filter_change_4_by_erik.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:oil:oil_filter_change_5_by_erik.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:oil:oil_filter_change_6_by_erik.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| Line 172: | Line 190: | ||
| * Pour the remaining oil into the oil tank. | * Pour the remaining oil into the oil tank. | ||
| * Fire up the engine, let the oil circulate and check for leaks around the drain plug and new oil fiter. | * Fire up the engine, let the oil circulate and check for leaks around the drain plug and new oil fiter. | ||
| - | * Then, shut it off and add oil to the correct level if needed. \\ (most fill to halfway between the add and full line of the dipstick, not to completely FULL) \\ If you fill it completely full you may get oil coming out of the breathers into the air filter especially if you run for long periods at high rpms. ((shanneba of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2071954&highlight=oil+tank+pressure&page=2)) | + | * Then, shut it off and add oil to the correct level if needed. \\ (most fill to halfway between the add and full line of the dipstick, not to completely FULL) \\ If you fill it completely full you may get oil coming out of the breathers into the air filter especially if you run for long periods at high rpms. ((shanneba of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/efi-sportster-motorcycle-talk-2007-and-up/195584-oil-tank-building-presure-blew-out-dip-stick/page2?t=2071954&highlight=oil+tank+pressure&page=2)) |
| - | ====== Sportster Case Drains Explained ====== | + | ====== Sportster Drain Plugs Explained ====== |
| **The dreaded case drain failure**: \\ | **The dreaded case drain failure**: \\ | ||
| 57-76 cases are notorious for cracked drain holes and thread damage around the sump drain. \\ | 57-76 cases are notorious for cracked drain holes and thread damage around the sump drain. \\ | ||
| Line 180: | Line 198: | ||
| This is due to the location of the 76 and prior drain plug. \\ | This is due to the location of the 76 and prior drain plug. \\ | ||
| See below for more information. \\ | See below for more information. \\ | ||
| - | |||
| ===== 57-76 Cases ===== | ===== 57-76 Cases ===== | ||
| - | + | * **The plug on the bottom left of the photo is the primary drain plug**. ((Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/96156-drilling-and-tapping-sump-plug-in-place-73xlch/page2?t=806833&highlight=drilling+tapping+drain&page=2)) | |
| - | * **The plug on the bottom left of the photo is the primary drain plug**. ((Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=806833&highlight=drilling+tapping+drain&page=2)) | + | |
| * It is only used when draining the primary / tranny oil. | * It is only used when draining the primary / tranny oil. | ||
| - | * **The one above it in the photo is for the transmission**. ((Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=806833&highlight=drilling+tapping+drain&page=2)) | + | * **The one above it in the photo is for the transmission**. ((Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/96156-drilling-and-tapping-sump-plug-in-place-73xlch/page2?t=806833&highlight=drilling+tapping+drain&page=2)) |
| * Since the transmission shares the same fluid with the primary, and the primary plug is lower than the tranny drain plug, there is no reason to remove this one. | * Since the transmission shares the same fluid with the primary, and the primary plug is lower than the tranny drain plug, there is no reason to remove this one. | ||
| - | * **The plug to the right center of the photo is the (crankcase drain plug)**. This is the one everyone has problems with. ((Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=806833&highlight=drilling+tapping+drain&page=2)) | + | * **The plug to the right center of the photo is the (crankcase drain plug)**. This is the one everyone has problems with. ((Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/96156-drilling-and-tapping-sump-plug-in-place-73xlch/page2?t=806833&highlight=drilling+tapping+drain&page=2)) |
| - | * (It has been said that ) this plug was never meant to be an actual case drain (in street engines). It's purpose has been somewhat of a debate. ((piniongear of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=806833&highlight=drilling+tapping+drain)) See more below. | + | * (It has been said that ) this plug was never meant to be an actual case drain (in street engines). It's purpose has been somewhat of a debate. ((piniongear of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/96156-drilling-and-tapping-sump-plug-in-place-73xlch?t=806833&highlight=drilling+tapping+drain)) See more below. |
| |{{techtalk:ih:oil:ih_drain_plugs_by_shadowdog500.jpg?direct&400|}}| | |{{techtalk:ih:oil:ih_drain_plugs_by_shadowdog500.jpg?direct&400|}}| | ||
| - | | Drain plugs in a '75 case ((photo by Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=806833&highlight=drilling+tapping+drain&page=2)) | | + | | Drain plugs in a '75 case ((photo by Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/96156-drilling-and-tapping-sump-plug-in-place-73xlch/page2?t=806833&highlight=drilling+tapping+drain&page=2)) | |
| - | * **Primary Drain Plug**: 1/2"x20x1/2" ((Scooter_Trash of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1616804)) | + | * **Primary Drain Plug**: 1/2"x20x1/2" ((Scooter_Trash of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/frame-mount-evo-sportster-talk-1986-2003-models/148954-please-help-stripped-drain-plug?t=1616804)) |
| **So, if the only plug out of the three you'll ever need to remove (theoretically) is the primary drain plug, what is the purpose for the other two plugs**? | **So, if the only plug out of the three you'll ever need to remove (theoretically) is the primary drain plug, what is the purpose for the other two plugs**? | ||
| * ** Transmission Drain Plug**: 1/2"x13 | * ** Transmission Drain Plug**: 1/2"x13 | ||
| - | * **Crankcase Drain Plug**: 1/2"x13 ((sevenyears of famine of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1461031&highlight=stripped+primary+drain)) | + | * **Crankcase Drain Plug**: 1/2"x13 ((sevenyears of famine of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/135180-oil-drain-plug-leaking-woes?t=1461031&highlight=stripped+primary+drain)) |
| - | * The drain on the pre1977 [non-mini sump] engine is under the flywheels, and was intended as a case drain. ((Racepres of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1950691)) \\ The 57 and 59 parts catalogs do specify "crankcase drain plug" while all others just read "drain plug" in the crankcase sections. ((hippysmack)) | + | * The drain on the pre1977 [non-mini sump] engine is under the flywheels, and was intended as a case drain. ((Racepres of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/181232-the-simple-purpose-of-the-case-drain-plug?t=1950691)) \\ The 57 and 59 parts catalogs do specify "crankcase drain plug" while all others just read "drain plug" in the crankcase sections. ((hippysmack)) |
| - | * We used either the pre'77 or we put one into '77-+ cases so that when racing, we could pull the plug in the pits to see how much oil was in the bottom end...helping to determine how much more restriction or bypass of feed oil we needed to eliminate, because the oil pump could not get rid of it. ((Racepres of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1950691)) | + | * We used either the pre'77 or we put one into '77-+ cases so that when racing, we could pull the plug in the pits to see how much oil was in the bottom end...helping to determine how much more restriction or bypass of feed oil we needed to eliminate, because the oil pump could not get rid of it. ((Racepres of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/181232-the-simple-purpose-of-the-case-drain-plug?t=1950691)) |
| * If you are not requiring that knowledge, or don't intend to do anything about it anyway. | * If you are not requiring that knowledge, or don't intend to do anything about it anyway. | ||
| - | * According to one theory, the hole was needed for the casting and machining process only and the plug was never meant to be removed after it was installed at the factory. The MoCo couldn't provide information on exactly how the hole was used during the manufacturing process because AMF did not keep good records and also a lot of records were lost during the transition back from AMF. ((Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=806833&highlight=drilling+tapping+drain&page=4)) | + | * According to one theory, the hole was needed for the casting and machining process only and the plug was never meant to be removed after it was installed at the factory. The MoCo couldn't provide information on exactly how the hole was used during the manufacturing process because AMF did not keep good records and also a lot of records were lost during the transition back from AMF. ((Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/96156-drilling-and-tapping-sump-plug-in-place-73xlch/page4?t=806833&highlight=drilling+tapping+drain&page=4)) |
| - | * Another theory is that people think the plug under the crankcase is a drain plug like you find on a car's oil pan and they remove it to drain excess oil collected in the case. ((piniongear of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=806833&highlight=drilling+tapping+drain)) | + | * Another theory is that people think the plug under the crankcase is a drain plug like you find on a car's oil pan and they remove it to drain excess oil collected in the case. ((piniongear of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/96156-drilling-and-tapping-sump-plug-in-place-73xlch?t=806833&highlight=drilling+tapping+drain)) |
| - | * However, dry sump engines, like Harleys, drain from the oil tank, not the crank case. ((Tracker of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512540&highlight=drilling+tapping+drain)) Draining your oil tank and refilling it there is all we need to do for changing our oil. The amount of oil sitting in the bottom of the cases is trivial, and that lower drain plug is notorious for stripping and not worth the hassle. ((antsap of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512540&highlight=drilling+tapping+drain)) | + | * However, dry sump engines, like Harleys, drain from the oil tank, not the crank case. ((Tracker of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139415-strip-oil-drain-bolt?t=1512540&highlight=drilling+tapping+drain)) Draining your oil tank and refilling it there is all we need to do for changing our oil. The amount of oil sitting in the bottom of the cases is trivial, and that lower drain plug is notorious for stripping and not worth the hassle. ((antsap of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139415-strip-oil-drain-bolt?t=1512540&highlight=drilling+tapping+drain)) |
| * A car is a wet sump system which most people are familiar with. | * A car is a wet sump system which most people are familiar with. | ||
| * Once removed, the plug will not tighten up again because the crumbly threads have stripped out. | * Once removed, the plug will not tighten up again because the crumbly threads have stripped out. | ||
| Line 213: | Line 229: | ||
| * Most people just use JB Weld to do their fix (?) and let it go at that. | * Most people just use JB Weld to do their fix (?) and let it go at that. | ||
| - | * The depression in the pic below is from the boss on the plug smashing the case on over tightening. \\ Then, one time when the plug got removed, that piece of stressed aluminum broke free. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1864035&highlight=stripped+threads&page=6)) | + | * The depression in the pic below is from the boss on the plug smashing the case on over tightening. \\ Then, one time when the plug got removed, that piece of stressed aluminum broke free. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/173827-crankcase-drain-plug/page6?t=1864035&highlight=stripped+threads&page=6)) |
| * The same thing can happen to the threads. They can break free upon removal of the plug for the same reasoning above. | * The same thing can happen to the threads. They can break free upon removal of the plug for the same reasoning above. | ||
| |{{techtalk:ih:oil:1967_crankcase_drain_1_by_ss396.jpg?direct&400|}}|{{techtalk:ih:oil:1967_crankcase_drain_2_by_ss396.jpg?direct&400|}}| | |{{techtalk:ih:oil:1967_crankcase_drain_1_by_ss396.jpg?direct&400|}}|{{techtalk:ih:oil:1967_crankcase_drain_2_by_ss396.jpg?direct&400|}}| | ||
| - | | Crankcase Drain Plug on a 1967 XLCH ((photo by ss396 og the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1864035&highlight=stripped+threads&page=5)) || | + | | Crankcase Drain Plug on a 1967 XLCH ((photo by ss396 og the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/173827-crankcase-drain-plug/page5?t=1864035&highlight=stripped+threads&page=5)) || |
| - | * Note that there will be no seal effect here because there is no surface for the plug boss to contact. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1864035&highlight=stripped+threads&page=6)) | + | * Note that there will be no seal effect here because there is no surface for the plug boss to contact. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/173827-crankcase-drain-plug/page6?t=1864035&highlight=stripped+threads&page=6)) |
| * Oil will travel past the thread gaps and with no sealing surface, it will leak. | * Oil will travel past the thread gaps and with no sealing surface, it will leak. | ||
| * That means a gasket may not effect a seal as there is not much for the gasket to squeeze against. | * That means a gasket may not effect a seal as there is not much for the gasket to squeeze against. | ||
| Line 226: | Line 242: | ||
| ==== Oil leaking around crankcase oil drain plug ==== | ==== Oil leaking around crankcase oil drain plug ==== | ||
| - | * 1st thing to do is to make sure its the plug. It can be the case seam near the plug. If it is the latter, don't mess with the plug. Look for a weeping case seam and cracks between the plug threads and the case seam. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1864035&highlight=Ironhead+Crankcase+Drain+Plug)) | + | * 1st thing to do is to make sure its the plug. It can be the case seam near the plug. If it is the latter, don't mess with the plug. Look for a weeping case seam and cracks between the plug threads and the case seam. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/173827-crankcase-drain-plug?t=1864035&highlight=Ironhead+Crankcase+Drain+Plug)) |
| |{{techtalk:ih:oil:ih_oil_drain_plug_1_by_ss396.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ih:oil:ih_oil_drain_plug_2_by_ss396.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ih:oil:ih_oil_drain_plug_3_by_ss396.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |{{techtalk:ih:oil:ih_oil_drain_plug_1_by_ss396.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ih:oil:ih_oil_drain_plug_2_by_ss396.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ih:oil:ih_oil_drain_plug_3_by_ss396.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| - | |Leak around oil drain plug. ((photo by ss396 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1864035&highlight=Ironhead+Crankcase+Drain+Plug)) In this instance, the case seam appears to be weeping oil.||| | + | |Leak around oil drain plug. ((photo by ss396 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/173827-crankcase-drain-plug?t=1864035&highlight=Ironhead+Crankcase+Drain+Plug)) In this instance, the case seam appears to be weeping oil.||| |
| - | <blockquote>If your plug is a factory unit, and you can spin it in or out (once initial torque is broken) all the way by hand, you have no problems. As long as you don't over tighten it. Clean and install the plug with blue locktite. Then don't tempt fate again by removing it. If you want to try to remove / break plug loose, use 1/8 turn max. If you can spin out by hand see above. If it gets too tight to remove by hand after the initial 1/8 turn, GINGERLY put the wrench to it. If you feel even the slightest unusual resistance- stop (personally what I'd do is use a 5/8 deep socket only (no ratchet) in my hand. If I can get it out by doing that I MAY be safe for a no hassle re-install). Get whatever sealant you feel comfortable with in the small gap. then re-tighten GENTLY. (( Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2001890)) | + | <blockquote>If your plug is a factory unit, and you can spin it in or out (once initial torque is broken) all the way by hand, you have no problems. As long as you don't over tighten it. Clean and install the plug with blue locktite. Then don't tempt fate again by removing it. If you want to try to remove / break plug loose, use 1/8 turn max. If you can spin out by hand see above. If it gets too tight to remove by hand after the initial 1/8 turn, GINGERLY put the wrench to it. If you feel even the slightest unusual resistance- stop (personally what I'd do is use a 5/8 deep socket only (no ratchet) in my hand. If I can get it out by doing that I MAY be safe for a no hassle re-install). Get whatever sealant you feel comfortable with in the small gap. then re-tighten GENTLY. (( Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/187446-contributions-from-dr-dick?t=2001890)) |
| - | UNDERSTAND THE PLUG DESTROYS THREAD INTEGRITY IN CASE ON REMOVAL. The thread may look ok but if they arent--- you will know on re-torque. If you have a brass flanged washer on your plug, be very suspect of messing with it. These washers were used on XLH oil tank drains. That means someone has installed one on your drain plug. That can't happen unless the plug has been removed. Remember its ham fisted plug r&r that causes striped plugs. Think hard about that when looking at your brass washer.(( Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2001890)) | + | UNDERSTAND THE PLUG DESTROYS THREAD INTEGRITY IN CASE ON REMOVAL. The thread may look ok but if they arent--- you will know on re-torque. If you have a brass flanged washer on your plug, be very suspect of messing with it. These washers were used on XLH oil tank drains. That means someone has installed one on your drain plug. That can't happen unless the plug has been removed. Remember its ham fisted plug r&r that causes striped plugs. Think hard about that when looking at your brass washer.(( Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/187446-contributions-from-dr-dick?t=2001890)) |
| </blockquote> | </blockquote> | ||
| Line 239: | Line 255: | ||
| |{{techtalk:ih:oil:1968_drain_plug_crack_by_nakina.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |{{techtalk:ih:oil:1968_drain_plug_crack_by_nakina.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| - | | Cracked case at the crankcase drain plug on a 1968 XLCH ((photo by nakina of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1974050&highlight=stripped+threads)) | | + | | Cracked case at the crankcase drain plug on a 1968 XLCH ((photo by nakina of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/183449-68-xlch-case-inspection?t=1974050&highlight=stripped+threads)) | |
| ===== L69-E71 Cases ===== | ===== L69-E71 Cases ===== | ||
| + | Late 1969, all 1970 and some early 71 cases came with no motor drains from the factory. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/146855-why-crankcase-case-drain-plugs-strip?t=1595420)) \\ | ||
| - | Late 1969, all 1970 and some early 71 cases came with no motor drains from the factory. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1595420)) \\ | + | |1969 XLCH with no sump drains. ((photo by ironheadjunkie of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/146855-why-crankcase-case-drain-plugs-strip?t=1595420))| |
| - | + | ||
| - | |1969 XLCH with no sump drains. ((photo by ironheadjunkie of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1595420))| | + | |
| |{{techtalk:ih:oil:69_xlch_2_by_ironheadjunkie.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |{{techtalk:ih:oil:69_xlch_2_by_ironheadjunkie.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| ===== 77 and Later Cases ===== | ===== 77 and Later Cases ===== | ||
| - | The "drain plug" on the bottom of the case is simply a threaded plug that caps the oil scavenging passageway. ((bobbystat of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1950691)) \\ | + | The "drain plug" on the bottom of the case is either a pressed or threaded plug that caps the oil scavenging rifling hole. ((bobbystat of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1950691)) \\ |
| The MoCo drilled from the bottom of the case to the horizontal oil passage in the gearcase. \\ | The MoCo drilled from the bottom of the case to the horizontal oil passage in the gearcase. \\ | ||
| This connects the crankcase sump oil to the scavenge port of the oil pump and the hole is plugged on the bottom. \\ | This connects the crankcase sump oil to the scavenge port of the oil pump and the hole is plugged on the bottom. \\ | ||
| Line 293: | Line 308: | ||
| ====== Choosing an Engine Oil ====== | ====== Choosing an Engine Oil ====== | ||
| ==== What Kind or Brand of Oil To Use for a Sportster ==== | ==== What Kind or Brand of Oil To Use for a Sportster ==== | ||
| - | + | {{:techtalk:ref:oil:55_gallon_oil_drum_by_jonesl.jpg?direct&200 |}} | |
| - | * First answer is to use the HD recommendations in the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your year model. \\ The chart below shows some recommendations for the use of HD oils. \\ And you can contact your nearest HD dealer for current recommendations on the oil they are selling for your ride. \\ See also [[techtalk:ref:oil01#Choosing an Engine Oil Other Than HD Brand]] | + | * ((photo by JonesL of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5806185)) First answer is to use the HD recommendations in the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your year model. \\ The chart below shows some recommendations for the use of HD oils. \\ And you can contact your nearest HD dealer for current recommendations on the oil they are selling for your ride. \\ See also [[techtalk:ref:oil01#Choosing an Engine Oil Other Than HD Brand]] |
| * The MoCo has a vested interest in keeping your engine healthy and knows exactly what oil their engines like. \\ Plus, no one ever damaged an engine by changing its oil too often. \\ If you want to keep your engine healthy, regular oil changes using the recommended weight and quality of oil is the easiest way to do it. | * The MoCo has a vested interest in keeping your engine healthy and knows exactly what oil their engines like. \\ Plus, no one ever damaged an engine by changing its oil too often. \\ If you want to keep your engine healthy, regular oil changes using the recommended weight and quality of oil is the easiest way to do it. | ||
| * **Development of Genuine Harley Davidson Motorcycle Oil**. ((MMI Fact Sheet on the Development of Harley Davidson Genuine Motorcycle Oil pg 1)) \\ In the late 70's, complaints were received by the MoCo from recreation and touring riders experiencing valve sticking problems. | * **Development of Genuine Harley Davidson Motorcycle Oil**. ((MMI Fact Sheet on the Development of Harley Davidson Genuine Motorcycle Oil pg 1)) \\ In the late 70's, complaints were received by the MoCo from recreation and touring riders experiencing valve sticking problems. | ||
| Line 352: | Line 367: | ||
| ^ |HD Medium Light|40F to 60F| | ^ |HD Medium Light|40F to 60F| | ||
| ^ |HD Regular Heavy|60F and up| | ^ |HD Regular Heavy|60F and up| | ||
| - | ^ |HDExtra Heavy Grade 60|severe engine operating conditions >85F| | + | ^ |HD Premium II Extra Heavy Grade 60 (API SF) ((HD P&A Bulletin #186 dated July 1, 1982))|severe engine operating conditions >85F| |
| ^Year Model^Harley Davidson Type Oil^Viscosity^HD Rating^Ambient Temperature F^Cold Weather Starts Below 50F^ | ^Year Model^Harley Davidson Type Oil^Viscosity^HD Rating^Ambient Temperature F^Cold Weather Starts Below 50F^ | ||
| Line 543: | Line 558: | ||
| === Phosphorus === | === Phosphorus === | ||
| Phosphorus is a key component for wear protection in an engine and 1600ppm (parts per million) used to be the standard for phosphorus in engine oil. In 1996 that was dropped to 800ppm and then more recently to 400ppm - a quarter of the original spec. Valvetrains and their components are not especially cheap to replace and this drop in phosphorus content has been a problem for many engines. So why was the level dropped? Money. Next to lead, it's the second most destructive substance to shove through a catalytic converter. The US government mandated a 150,000 mile lifetime on catalytic converters and the quickest way to do that was to drop phosphorus levels and bugger the valve train problem. | Phosphorus is a key component for wear protection in an engine and 1600ppm (parts per million) used to be the standard for phosphorus in engine oil. In 1996 that was dropped to 800ppm and then more recently to 400ppm - a quarter of the original spec. Valvetrains and their components are not especially cheap to replace and this drop in phosphorus content has been a problem for many engines. So why was the level dropped? Money. Next to lead, it's the second most destructive substance to shove through a catalytic converter. The US government mandated a 150,000 mile lifetime on catalytic converters and the quickest way to do that was to drop phosphorus levels and bugger the valve train problem. | ||
| - | |||
| - | |||
| === Boron Additives in Oil === | === Boron Additives in Oil === | ||
| - | + | By MolaKule ((hexnut from the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/lubrication-and-lubricants/181135-oil-testing-reading?t=1949300&highlight=ZDDPlus)) | |
| - | + | ||
| - | By MolaKule ((hexnut from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1949300&highlight=ZDDPlus)) | + | |
| * This white paper discusses the mechanics and chemistry of Boron Compounds as additives in Motor Oils, Gear Lubes, and Greases. | * This white paper discusses the mechanics and chemistry of Boron Compounds as additives in Motor Oils, Gear Lubes, and Greases. | ||
| Line 591: | Line 601: | ||
| * **Direct Reading Ferrograph**: The DR unit separates wear debris from the lubricant according to size. The WPC, summation of DL and DS, provides a trendable quantity for monitoring the wear condition of a piece of equipment. Fluctuations in the WPC suggest an abnormal condition in the component or possible contamination.((https://www.tricocorp.com/services/oil-analysis/used-oil-analysis/)) | * **Direct Reading Ferrograph**: The DR unit separates wear debris from the lubricant according to size. The WPC, summation of DL and DS, provides a trendable quantity for monitoring the wear condition of a piece of equipment. Fluctuations in the WPC suggest an abnormal condition in the component or possible contamination.((https://www.tricocorp.com/services/oil-analysis/used-oil-analysis/)) | ||
| * Chlorine, Emulsified oil, Grease, On-Spec Waste Oil, PCB analysis (full), PCB screen, Soot, Oil + % Ash, Solvent, Specific Gravity, Sulfur, Total Halogens (TOX), Total Halogens Screen, Viscosity Index, | * Chlorine, Emulsified oil, Grease, On-Spec Waste Oil, PCB analysis (full), PCB screen, Soot, Oil + % Ash, Solvent, Specific Gravity, Sulfur, Total Halogens (TOX), Total Halogens Screen, Viscosity Index, | ||
| - | |||
| * **The spectral analysis process itself isn't 'perfect' science**. The oil is sparked (or “burned”) between a rotating carbon disc electrode and a carbon rod electrode. The sample is placed in a sample cap, the disc is partially immersed in the oil sample and the disc rotates as the burn proceeds. ((http://www.spectrosci.com/default/assets/File/SpectroSci_OilAnalysisHandbook_FINAL_2014-08.pdf)) | * **The spectral analysis process itself isn't 'perfect' science**. The oil is sparked (or “burned”) between a rotating carbon disc electrode and a carbon rod electrode. The sample is placed in a sample cap, the disc is partially immersed in the oil sample and the disc rotates as the burn proceeds. ((http://www.spectrosci.com/default/assets/File/SpectroSci_OilAnalysisHandbook_FINAL_2014-08.pdf)) | ||
| Line 632: | Line 641: | ||
| * Click on a chart to enlarge. | * Click on a chart to enlarge. | ||
| - | |{{techtalk:ref:raw:parrotheads_uoa.jpg?direct&100|}}((Courtesy of parrothead from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1995942&highlight=oil+analysis))|{{techtalk:ref:raw:2016sportstertransoilreports_by_shanneba.jpg?direct&100|}}((2016 Sportster primary/ transmission oil UOA by shanneba of the XLFORUM))| | + | |{{techtalk:ref:raw:parrotheads_uoa.jpg?direct&100|}}((Courtesy of parrothead from the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/rubber-mount-sportster-motorcycle-talk-2004-2006/186753-oil-analysis-of-high-mileage-2006-sportster?t=1995942&highlight=oil+analysis))|{{techtalk:ref:raw:2016sportstertransoilreports_by_shanneba.jpg?direct&100|}}((2016 Sportster primary/ transmission oil UOA by shanneba of the XLFORUM))| |
| |2006 Sportster engine oil \\ UOA at 200,000 miles|2016 Sportster primary/ trans \\ oil UOA at 15,000 miles| | |2006 Sportster engine oil \\ UOA at 200,000 miles|2016 Sportster primary/ trans \\ oil UOA at 15,000 miles| | ||
