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techtalk:ref:oil01 [2019/06/15 20:33]
hippysmack [76 and Earlier Cases]
techtalk:ref:oil01 [2024/01/27 20:11] (current)
hippysmack [Checking Oil Level]
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 ====== Engine Oil Change, Oil Specs, Aftermarkets and Comparisons ====== ====== Engine Oil Change, Oil Specs, Aftermarkets and Comparisons ======
 === Further Oil Study === === Further Oil Study ===
-**For a more in depth study on oil** manufacturing,​ additives, specifications,​ etc., click here [[techtalk:​ref:​oil01#​Getting More Technical about Engine Oil]]+**For a more in depth study on oil** manufacturing,​ additives, specifications,​ etc., click here [[techtalk:​ref:​oil01#​Getting More Technical about Engine Oil]] \\ 
 +\\ 
 +{{:​techtalk:​ref:​oil:​oil_cans_by_johngoober.jpg?​nolink&​300|}} ((photos by Ebay seller, johngoober, [[https://​www.ebay.ca/​sch/​i.html?​item=144998065911&​rt=nc&​_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2562&​_ssn=johngoober|Link to Ebay Store]] ​ )) \\
  
 ====== Checking Oil Level ====== ====== Checking Oil Level ======
 +Always check the oil after the engine is up to operating temperature before topping off the oil tank. \\
  
-A forum member once reported that he went and flogged his buddies 06 bike. ((NRHS Sales of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​p=754838#post754838)) \\+Flogging the bike with an immediate shut down could leave too much oil in the sump. \\ 
 +A forum member once reported that he went and flogged his buddies 06 bike. ((NRHS Sales of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/vendors/​nrhs-high-performance/​33374-04s-and-up-and-oil-use/​page20#post724787)) \\
 When he parked it, he immediately checked the oil level and it was about a quart down. \\ When he parked it, he immediately checked the oil level and it was about a quart down. \\
 After a while he restarted it and ran it for just a bit before checking the oil again. \\ After a while he restarted it and ran it for just a bit before checking the oil again. \\
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 So if your bike is in a current state of being wet sumped, it would definitely cause a false dipstick reading. \\ So if your bike is in a current state of being wet sumped, it would definitely cause a false dipstick reading. \\
 See more on [[techtalk:​ref:​oil10#​refoiling_lubrication|Wet sumping]] in the REF section of the Sportsterpedia. \\ See more on [[techtalk:​ref:​oil10#​refoiling_lubrication|Wet sumping]] in the REF section of the Sportsterpedia. \\
 +
 +When checking the oil level before you fire up, don't be some are tempted to add oil then. \\
 +But the oil in the tank can leak into the engine during shut down times. \\
 +Adding oil on a cold motor may end up with having too much oil in the tank during the next ride. \\
 +See more on [[techtalk:​ref:​oil10#​sit_sumpimg|Sit Sumping]] in the REF section of the Sportsterpedia. \\
 ===== Overfilling the Oil Tank ===== ===== Overfilling the Oil Tank =====
 This is a common mistake. \\ This is a common mistake. \\
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 But this usually boils out on a long ride. \\ But this usually boils out on a long ride. \\
 Short rides are killers on blow-by and water accumulations. \\ Short rides are killers on blow-by and water accumulations. \\
-Regular oil changes should suffice. ((bustert of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=1162026)) \\+Regular oil changes should suffice. ((bustert of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​119568-gas-in-oil-maybe?​t=1162026)) \\
  
 +**There is no way for gas to get into the engine other than thru the carb and past the float**. \\
 +(unless you have an enemy pouring gas in the oil tank) \\
 A problem with gas mixing with engine oil commonly starts at one place, the gas tank. \\ A problem with gas mixing with engine oil commonly starts at one place, the gas tank. \\
 Most commonly it comes from not returning the petcock to the '​off'​ position after shutdown. \\ Most commonly it comes from not returning the petcock to the '​off'​ position after shutdown. \\
-Gas seeps from the tank into the petcock, ​then the cylinders ​and seeps in between ​the rings and down into the crankcase, and the oil. \\+Gas seeps from the tank into the petcock, ​to the carb, past the float, into the cylinders, inbetween ​the rings and down into the crankcase, and the oil. \\
  
   * Other situations can also attribute to gas getting into the oil supply.   * Other situations can also attribute to gas getting into the oil supply.
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 Carb vacuum actuates the diaphragm and allows gas to gravity flow thru the petcock. \\ Carb vacuum actuates the diaphragm and allows gas to gravity flow thru the petcock. \\
  
-Don't rely on the vacuum petcock alone, turn the gas off when the bike is not being ridden. ((dabronco of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?t=25984)) \\+Don't rely on the vacuum petcock alone, turn the gas off when the bike is not being ridden. ((dabronco of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-intake-and-exhaust/​sportster-motorcycle-air-intake-carburetor-efi-fuel-and-exhaust/​15529-gas-in-oil?t=25984)) \\
 It's better for them to be turned regularly anyway, as the rubber parts will bond together if they don't get lubed with gas and exercised once in a while. \\ It's better for them to be turned regularly anyway, as the rubber parts will bond together if they don't get lubed with gas and exercised once in a while. \\
  
 **Inspect the carburetor**. \\ **Inspect the carburetor**. \\
-If the over flow hose is pinched off, gas will flow out the main jet if the float is set wrong or the needle valve is bad. ((nikki of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=1162026)) \\ +If the over flow hose is pinched off, gas will flow out the main jet if the float is set wrong or the needle valve is bad. ((nikki of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​119568-gas-in-oil-maybe?​t=1162026)) \\ 
-You could try pulling off the float bowl and putting in a new float needle and generally clean out the gunk. ((hopper of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=1162026&​page=2)) \\+You could try pulling off the float bowl and putting in a new float needle and generally clean out the gunk. ((hopper of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​119568-gas-in-oil-maybe/​page2?​t=1162026&​page=2)) \\
  
-A small piece of trash can get between the needle and seat (where the float attaches). ((Dakin Engineering of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?t=25984)) \\+A small piece of trash can get between the needle and seat (where the float attaches). ((Dakin Engineering of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-intake-and-exhaust/​sportster-motorcycle-air-intake-carburetor-efi-fuel-and-exhaust/​15529-gas-in-oil?t=25984)) \\
 This will let a trickle down the intake and into the cylinder. \\ This will let a trickle down the intake and into the cylinder. \\
  
 An overly rich condition can also lead to gas contamination in the oil. \\ An overly rich condition can also lead to gas contamination in the oil. \\
 Check your air / fuel mixture. \\ Check your air / fuel mixture. \\
-An air screw (like on HSR42s) will be on the air cleaner side of the venturi (slide). ((chrishajer of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​p=384649#post384649)) \\+An air screw (like on HSR42s) will be on the air cleaner side of the venturi (slide). ((chrishajer of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-intake-and-exhaust/​sportster-motorcycle-air-intake-carburetor-efi-fuel-and-exhaust/​17146-ok-carb-tuer-guys-hsr-tuning-jetted-up-still-shows-lean-on-the-plugs#post468574)) \\
 A fuel screw (like on CV) will be on the engine side of the venturi. \\ A fuel screw (like on CV) will be on the engine side of the venturi. \\
 Air screws cut off air, so they make the mixture richer when you turn them in (restrict an air passage). \\ Air screws cut off air, so they make the mixture richer when you turn them in (restrict an air passage). \\
 Fuel screws cut off fuel when you turn them in because they shut off a fuel passage. \\ Fuel screws cut off fuel when you turn them in because they shut off a fuel passage. \\
- 
  
 **Drain the diluted oil, remove / flush the oil tank and replace with fresh oil**. \\ **Drain the diluted oil, remove / flush the oil tank and replace with fresh oil**. \\
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 The gas can swell the seals and cause leaks. \\ The gas can swell the seals and cause leaks. \\
  
-**Always turn the petcock '​off'​ when the bike is not being ridden to avoid the inevitable**. ((GA_Ironhead of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​p=5739538#post5739538)) \\+**Always turn the petcock '​off'​ when the bike is not being ridden to avoid the inevitable**. ((GA_Ironhead of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​196377-interesting-sump-plug-discovery/​page3#post4286851)) \\
 If that fails, always turn off the ignition. You don't want accidental sparks while draining the gas out. \\ If that fails, always turn off the ignition. You don't want accidental sparks while draining the gas out. \\
- 
- 
- 
  
 ====== When To Change Oil ====== ====== When To Change Oil ======
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   * If you are riding in the city, you fire up your bike in the morning, drive 5 miles to work, then the ride back home in the evening \\ (while also sitting in a traffic jam) \\ You put a much larger amount of specific stress on the engine and on the oil than long distance rides on a highway.   * If you are riding in the city, you fire up your bike in the morning, drive 5 miles to work, then the ride back home in the evening \\ (while also sitting in a traffic jam) \\ You put a much larger amount of specific stress on the engine and on the oil than long distance rides on a highway.
   * It is not unrealistic to assume that if you do not reach the oil change interval specified in miles within 12 months, \\ then you are probably making these short trips and 1 mile of yours count like 5 or more (stress-wise) compared to the average. \\ So limiting the oil change interval in time as well as miles makes sure that the oil (that receives higher specific stress) gets changed sooner.((http://​www.oilspecifications.org/​articles/​about-oil-drain-intervals.php))   * It is not unrealistic to assume that if you do not reach the oil change interval specified in miles within 12 months, \\ then you are probably making these short trips and 1 mile of yours count like 5 or more (stress-wise) compared to the average. \\ So limiting the oil change interval in time as well as miles makes sure that the oil (that receives higher specific stress) gets changed sooner.((http://​www.oilspecifications.org/​articles/​about-oil-drain-intervals.php))
 +
 +====== Should You Drain the Engine or Oil Tank? ======
 +On a normal oil change, none of us can drain All the oil out. When we drain the oil, we are only draining the oil tank and not the engine. \\
 +
 +Do Not drain the oil until you've taken the bike on a 15-20 min ride. This will allow the oil to be scavenged by the pump to the oil tank. \\
 +It'll also suspend debris in the oil instead of it laying on the bottom and not being drained. \\
 +In gerotor oil pumps, the return side is much bigger than the feed side. \\
 +So firing up the bike sends the oil accumulated in the sump back to the tank faster than more oil can accumulate in the engine. \\
 +This fills the oil level back to where it should be. See also, [[techtalk:​ref:​oil01#​overfilling_the_oil_tank|Overfilling the Oil Tank]] above. \\
 +
 +The drawing below shows the oil path for 1992-1997 Sportsters. All mini-sump engines are the same as far as oil scavenging goes. \\
 +
 +The yellow portion in the bottom represents oil in the sump waiting to be picked up by the oil pump. \\
 +If you follow the path out the engine, the oil is sucked uphill from the sump to the oil pump. \\
 +This is why you need to run the engine until the oil is at operating temp before draining it. \\
 +Else you'll fill the line on the dipstick, pick up the oil in the sump upon startup and blow out it the breathers. \\
 +
 +{{:​techtalk:​evo:​oil:​92-97_sportster_feed-return_oil_paths_by_hippysmack.jpg?​direct&​300|}} ((drawing by Hippysmack)) \\
  
 ====== Changing / Draining Engine Oil ====== ====== Changing / Draining Engine Oil ======
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   * Remove the oil tank drain plug and allow the tank to drain completely.   * Remove the oil tank drain plug and allow the tank to drain completely.
   * The drain hose from the oil tank is capped off below the tank.   * The drain hose from the oil tank is capped off below the tank.
-  * Loosen the hose clamp, drain the oil, put the hose back onto the frame plug and tighten the clamp. ((IXL2Relax of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=1232772&​highlight=frame+clamp&​page=47))+  * Loosen the hose clamp, drain the oil, put the hose back onto the frame plug and tighten the clamp. ((IXL2Relax of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-general-discussion-and-problems/​124047-getting-out-the-wrenches-was-broken-exhaust-stud/​page47?​t=1232772&​highlight=frame+clamp&​page=47))
   * You can use  a Visegrip or hemostat to close the hose above the stud, slip it off the stud.   * You can use  a Visegrip or hemostat to close the hose above the stud, slip it off the stud.
   * Then open the line and let the oil drain into a catch pan / can. \\ (See above link for oil hose drain locations per year model)   * Then open the line and let the oil drain into a catch pan / can. \\ (See above link for oil hose drain locations per year model)
  
 |{{:​techtalk:​ref:​tools:​oil_drain_container_by_sep69.jpg?​direct&​300|}}| ​ |{{:​techtalk:​ref:​tools:​oil_drain_container_by_sep69.jpg?​direct&​300|}}| ​
-|Collect the oil, haul it to your nearest auto parts \\ store for recycling. ((photo by sep69 of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=1332901))|+|Collect the oil, haul it to your nearest auto parts \\ store for recycling. ((photo by sep69 of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-motor-engine/​sportster-motorcycle-engine-conversions/​128452-mark-s-883-to-1250-conversion?​t=1332901))|
  
 **Clean the lifter screen (86-91 only)**: \\ **Clean the lifter screen (86-91 only)**: \\
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   * Allow time for oil to soak into the filter element.   * Allow time for oil to soak into the filter element.
  
-|  Add 4oz of oil to the filter before installing it. ((photos by Erik of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=320342&​page=50)) ​ |||+|  Add 4oz of oil to the filter before installing it. ((photos by Erik of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​frame-mount-evo-sportster-talk-1986-2003-models/​58938-totalled-my-engine/​page50?​t=320342&​page=50)) ​ |||
 |{{:​techtalk:​ref:​oil:​oil_filter_change_1_by_erik.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|{{:​techtalk:​ref:​oil:​oil_filter_change_2_by_erik.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|{{:​techtalk:​ref:​oil:​oil_filter_change_3_by_erik.jpg?​direct&​300|}}| |{{:​techtalk:​ref:​oil:​oil_filter_change_1_by_erik.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|{{:​techtalk:​ref:​oil:​oil_filter_change_2_by_erik.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|{{:​techtalk:​ref:​oil:​oil_filter_change_3_by_erik.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|
  
-|  Lube the outer gasket, place a rag under the filter mount and install the filter. ((photos by Erik of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=320342&​page=50)) ​ |||+|  Lube the outer gasket, place a rag under the filter mount and install the filter. ((photos by Erik of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​frame-mount-evo-sportster-talk-1986-2003-models/​58938-totalled-my-engine/​page50?​t=320342&​page=50)) ​ |||
 |{{:​techtalk:​ref:​oil:​oil_filter_change_4_by_erik.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|{{:​techtalk:​ref:​oil:​oil_filter_change_5_by_erik.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|{{:​techtalk:​ref:​oil:​oil_filter_change_6_by_erik.jpg?​direct&​300|}}| |{{:​techtalk:​ref:​oil:​oil_filter_change_4_by_erik.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|{{:​techtalk:​ref:​oil:​oil_filter_change_5_by_erik.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|{{:​techtalk:​ref:​oil:​oil_filter_change_6_by_erik.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|
  
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   * Pour the remaining oil into the oil tank.   * Pour the remaining oil into the oil tank.
   * Fire up the engine, let the oil circulate and check for leaks around the drain plug and new oil fiter.   * Fire up the engine, let the oil circulate and check for leaks around the drain plug and new oil fiter.
-  * Then, shut it off and add oil to the correct level if needed. \\ (most fill to halfway between the add and full line of the dipstick, not to completely FULL) \\ If you fill it completely full you may get oil coming out of the breathers into the air filter especially if you run for long periods at high rpms. ((shanneba of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=2071954&​highlight=oil+tank+pressure&​page=2))+  * Then, shut it off and add oil to the correct level if needed. \\ (most fill to halfway between the add and full line of the dipstick, not to completely FULL) \\ If you fill it completely full you may get oil coming out of the breathers into the air filter especially if you run for long periods at high rpms. ((shanneba of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​efi-sportster-motorcycle-talk-2007-and-up/​195584-oil-tank-building-presure-blew-out-dip-stick/​page2?​t=2071954&​highlight=oil+tank+pressure&​page=2))
  
-====== Sportster ​Case Drains ​Explained ======+====== Sportster ​Drain Plugs Explained ======
 **The dreaded case drain failure**: \\ **The dreaded case drain failure**: \\
 57-76 cases are notorious for cracked drain holes and thread damage around the sump drain. \\ 57-76 cases are notorious for cracked drain holes and thread damage around the sump drain. \\
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 This is due to the location of the 76 and prior drain plug. \\ This is due to the location of the 76 and prior drain plug. \\
 See below for more information. \\ See below for more information. \\
- 
  
 ===== 57-76 Cases ===== ===== 57-76 Cases =====
- +  ​* **The plug on the bottom left of the photo is the primary drain plug**. ((Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​96156-drilling-and-tapping-sump-plug-in-place-73xlch/​page2?​t=806833&​highlight=drilling+tapping+drain&​page=2))
-  ​* **The plug on the bottom left of the photo is the primary drain plug**. ((Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=806833&​highlight=drilling+tapping+drain&​page=2))+
     * It is only used when draining the primary / tranny oil.      * It is only used when draining the primary / tranny oil. 
-  * **The one above it in the photo is for the transmission**. ((Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=806833&​highlight=drilling+tapping+drain&​page=2))+  * **The one above it in the photo is for the transmission**. ((Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​96156-drilling-and-tapping-sump-plug-in-place-73xlch/​page2?​t=806833&​highlight=drilling+tapping+drain&​page=2))
     * Since the transmission shares the same fluid with the primary, and the primary plug is lower than the tranny drain plug, there is no reason to remove this one.     * Since the transmission shares the same fluid with the primary, and the primary plug is lower than the tranny drain plug, there is no reason to remove this one.
-  * **The plug to the right center of the photo is the (crankcase drain plug)**. This is the one everyone has problems with. ((Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=806833&​highlight=drilling+tapping+drain&​page=2)) +  * **The plug to the right center of the photo is the (crankcase drain plug)**. This is the one everyone has problems with. ((Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​96156-drilling-and-tapping-sump-plug-in-place-73xlch/​page2?​t=806833&​highlight=drilling+tapping+drain&​page=2)) 
-    * (It has been said that ) this plug was never meant to be an actual case drain (in street engines). It's purpose has been somewhat of a debate. ((piniongear of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=806833&​highlight=drilling+tapping+drain)) See more below.+    * (It has been said that ) this plug was never meant to be an actual case drain (in street engines). It's purpose has been somewhat of a debate. ((piniongear of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​96156-drilling-and-tapping-sump-plug-in-place-73xlch?​t=806833&​highlight=drilling+tapping+drain)) See more below.
  
-|{{:techtalk:​ih:​engmech:​ih_drain_plugs_by_shadowdog500.jpg?​direct&​400|}}| +|{{techtalk:​ih:​oil:​ih_drain_plugs_by_shadowdog500.jpg?​direct&​400|}}| 
-|  Drain plugs in a '75 case ((photo by Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=806833&​highlight=drilling+tapping+drain&​page=2)) ​ |+|  Drain plugs in a '75 case ((photo by Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​96156-drilling-and-tapping-sump-plug-in-place-73xlch/​page2?​t=806833&​highlight=drilling+tapping+drain&​page=2)) ​ |
  
-  * **Primary Drain Plug**: 1/​2"​x20x1/​2"​ ((Scooter_Trash of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=1616804))  ​+  * **Primary Drain Plug**: 1/​2"​x20x1/​2"​ ((Scooter_Trash of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​frame-mount-evo-sportster-talk-1986-2003-models/​148954-please-help-stripped-drain-plug?​t=1616804))  ​
  
 **So, if the only plug out of the three you'll ever need to remove (theoretically) is the primary drain plug, what is the purpose for the other two plugs**? **So, if the only plug out of the three you'll ever need to remove (theoretically) is the primary drain plug, what is the purpose for the other two plugs**?
  
   * ** Transmission Drain Plug**: 1/​2"​x13   * ** Transmission Drain Plug**: 1/​2"​x13
-  * **Crankcase Drain Plug**: 1/​2"​x13 ((sevenyears of famine of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=1461031&​highlight=stripped+primary+drain)) +  * **Crankcase Drain Plug**: 1/​2"​x13 ((sevenyears of famine of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​135180-oil-drain-plug-leaking-woes?​t=1461031&​highlight=stripped+primary+drain)) 
-  * The drain on the pre1977 [non-mini sump] engine is under the flywheels, and was intended as a case drain. ((Racepres of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=1950691)) \\ The 57 and 59 parts catalogs do specify "​crankcase drain plug" while all others just read "drain plug" in the crankcase sections. ((hippysmack)) +  * The drain on the pre1977 [non-mini sump] engine is under the flywheels, and was intended as a case drain. ((Racepres of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​181232-the-simple-purpose-of-the-case-drain-plug?​t=1950691)) \\ The 57 and 59 parts catalogs do specify "​crankcase drain plug" while all others just read "drain plug" in the crankcase sections. ((hippysmack)) 
-    * We used either the pre'77 or we put one into '77-+ cases so that when racing, we could pull the plug in the pits to see how much oil was in the bottom end...helping to determine how much more restriction or bypass of feed oil we needed to eliminate, because the oil pump could not get rid of it. ((Racepres of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=1950691))+    * We used either the pre'77 or we put one into '77-+ cases so that when racing, we could pull the plug in the pits to see how much oil was in the bottom end...helping to determine how much more restriction or bypass of feed oil we needed to eliminate, because the oil pump could not get rid of it. ((Racepres of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​181232-the-simple-purpose-of-the-case-drain-plug?​t=1950691))
     * If you are not requiring that knowledge, or don't intend to do anything about it anyway.     * If you are not requiring that knowledge, or don't intend to do anything about it anyway.
-  * According to one theory, the hole was needed for the casting and machining process only and the plug was never meant to be removed after it was installed at the factory. The MoCo couldn'​t provide information on exactly how the hole was used during the manufacturing process because AMF did not keep good records and also a lot of records were lost during the transition back from AMF. ((Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=806833&​highlight=drilling+tapping+drain&​page=4)) +  * According to one theory, the hole was needed for the casting and machining process only and the plug was never meant to be removed after it was installed at the factory. The MoCo couldn'​t provide information on exactly how the hole was used during the manufacturing process because AMF did not keep good records and also a lot of records were lost during the transition back from AMF. ((Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​96156-drilling-and-tapping-sump-plug-in-place-73xlch/​page4?​t=806833&​highlight=drilling+tapping+drain&​page=4)) 
-  * Another theory is that people think the plug under the crankcase is a drain plug like you find on a car's oil pan and they remove it to drain excess oil collected in the case. ((piniongear of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=806833&​highlight=drilling+tapping+drain)) +  * Another theory is that people think the plug under the crankcase is a drain plug like you find on a car's oil pan and they remove it to drain excess oil collected in the case. ((piniongear of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​96156-drilling-and-tapping-sump-plug-in-place-73xlch?​t=806833&​highlight=drilling+tapping+drain)) 
-    * However, dry sump engines, like Harleys, drain from the oil tank, not the crank case. ((Tracker of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=1512540&​highlight=drilling+tapping+drain)) Draining your oil tank and refilling it there is all we need to do for changing our oil. The amount of oil sitting in the bottom of the cases is trivial, and that lower drain plug is notorious for stripping and not worth the hassle. ((antsap of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=1512540&​highlight=drilling+tapping+drain))+    * However, dry sump engines, like Harleys, drain from the oil tank, not the crank case. ((Tracker of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​139415-strip-oil-drain-bolt?​t=1512540&​highlight=drilling+tapping+drain)) Draining your oil tank and refilling it there is all we need to do for changing our oil. The amount of oil sitting in the bottom of the cases is trivial, and that lower drain plug is notorious for stripping and not worth the hassle. ((antsap of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​139415-strip-oil-drain-bolt?​t=1512540&​highlight=drilling+tapping+drain))
     * A car is a wet sump system which most people are familiar with.     * A car is a wet sump system which most people are familiar with.
     * Once removed, the plug will not tighten up again because the crumbly threads have stripped out.      * Once removed, the plug will not tighten up again because the crumbly threads have stripped out. 
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     * Most people just use JB Weld to do their fix (?) and let it go at that.      * Most people just use JB Weld to do their fix (?) and let it go at that. 
  
-  * The depression in the pic below is from the boss on the plug smashing the case on over tightening. \\ Then, one time when the plug got removed, that piece of stressed aluminum broke free. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=1864035&​highlight=stripped+threads&​page=6))+  * The depression in the pic below is from the boss on the plug smashing the case on over tightening. \\ Then, one time when the plug got removed, that piece of stressed aluminum broke free. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​173827-crankcase-drain-plug/​page6?​t=1864035&​highlight=stripped+threads&​page=6))
   * The same thing can happen to the threads. They can break free upon removal of the plug for the same reasoning above.   * The same thing can happen to the threads. They can break free upon removal of the plug for the same reasoning above.
  
-|{{:techtalk:​ih:​engmech:​1967_crankcase_drain_1_by_ss396.jpg?​direct&​400|}}|{{:techtalk:​ih:​engmech:​1967_crankcase_drain_2_by_ss396.jpg?​direct&​400|}}| +|{{techtalk:​ih:​oil:​1967_crankcase_drain_1_by_ss396.jpg?​direct&​400|}}|{{techtalk:​ih:​oil:​1967_crankcase_drain_2_by_ss396.jpg?​direct&​400|}}| 
-|  Crankcase Drain Plug on a 1967 XLCH  ((photo by ss396 og the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=1864035&​highlight=stripped+threads&​page=5)) ​ ||+|  Crankcase Drain Plug on a 1967 XLCH  ((photo by ss396 og the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​173827-crankcase-drain-plug/​page5?​t=1864035&​highlight=stripped+threads&​page=5)) ​ ||
  
-  * Note that there will be no seal effect here because there is no surface for the plug boss to contact. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=1864035&​highlight=stripped+threads&​page=6))+  * Note that there will be no seal effect here because there is no surface for the plug boss to contact. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​173827-crankcase-drain-plug/​page6?​t=1864035&​highlight=stripped+threads&​page=6))
     * Oil will travel past the thread gaps and with no sealing surface, it will leak.     * Oil will travel past the thread gaps and with no sealing surface, it will leak.
     * That means a gasket may not effect a seal as there is not much for the gasket to squeeze against.     * That means a gasket may not effect a seal as there is not much for the gasket to squeeze against.
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     * If you use Teflon tape, you'll need to reduce the torque applied to the plug to keep from overloading the threads with wrench force.     * If you use Teflon tape, you'll need to reduce the torque applied to the plug to keep from overloading the threads with wrench force.
  
-===== Oil leaking around crankcase oil drain plug ===== +==== Oil leaking around crankcase oil drain plug ==== 
-  * 1st thing to do is to make sure its the plug. It can be the case seam near the plug. If it is the latter, don't mess with the plug. Look for a weeping case seam and cracks between the plug threads and the case seam. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=1864035&​highlight=Ironhead+Crankcase+Drain+Plug))+  * 1st thing to do is to make sure its the plug. It can be the case seam near the plug. If it is the latter, don't mess with the plug. Look for a weeping case seam and cracks between the plug threads and the case seam. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​173827-crankcase-drain-plug?​t=1864035&​highlight=Ironhead+Crankcase+Drain+Plug))
  
-|{{:techtalk:​ih:​engmech:​ih_oil_drain_plug_1_by_ss396.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|{{:techtalk:​ih:​engmech:​ih_oil_drain_plug_2_by_ss396.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|{{:techtalk:​ih:​engmech:​ih_oil_drain_plug_3_by_ss396.jpg?​direct&​300|}}| +|{{techtalk:​ih:​oil:​ih_oil_drain_plug_1_by_ss396.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|{{techtalk:​ih:​oil:​ih_oil_drain_plug_2_by_ss396.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|{{techtalk:​ih:​oil:​ih_oil_drain_plug_3_by_ss396.jpg?​direct&​300|}}| 
-|Leak around oil drain plug. ((photo by ss396 of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=1864035&​highlight=Ironhead+Crankcase+Drain+Plug)) In this instance, the case seam appears to be weeping oil.|||+|Leak around oil drain plug. ((photo by ss396 of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​173827-crankcase-drain-plug?​t=1864035&​highlight=Ironhead+Crankcase+Drain+Plug)) In this instance, the case seam appears to be weeping oil.|||
  
-<​blockquote>​If your plug is a factory unit, and you can spin it in or out (once initial torque is broken) all the way by hand, you have no problems. As long as you don't over tighten it. Clean and install the plug with blue locktite. Then don't tempt fate again by removing it. If you want to try to remove / break plug loose, use 1/8 turn max. If you can spin out by hand see above. If it gets too tight to remove by hand after the initial 1/8 turn, GINGERLY put the wrench to it. If you feel even the slightest unusual resistance- stop (personally what I'd do is use a 5/8 deep socket only (no ratchet) in my hand. If I can get it out by doing that I MAY be safe for a no hassle re-install). Get whatever sealant you feel comfortable with in the small gap. then re-tighten GENTLY. (( Dr Dick of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=2001890))+<​blockquote>​If your plug is a factory unit, and you can spin it in or out (once initial torque is broken) all the way by hand, you have no problems. As long as you don't over tighten it. Clean and install the plug with blue locktite. Then don't tempt fate again by removing it. If you want to try to remove / break plug loose, use 1/8 turn max. If you can spin out by hand see above. If it gets too tight to remove by hand after the initial 1/8 turn, GINGERLY put the wrench to it. If you feel even the slightest unusual resistance- stop (personally what I'd do is use a 5/8 deep socket only (no ratchet) in my hand. If I can get it out by doing that I MAY be safe for a no hassle re-install). Get whatever sealant you feel comfortable with in the small gap. then re-tighten GENTLY. (( Dr Dick of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​187446-contributions-from-dr-dick?​t=2001890))
  
-UNDERSTAND THE PLUG DESTROYS THREAD INTEGRITY IN CASE ON REMOVAL. The thread may look ok but if they arent--- you will know on re-torque. If you have a brass flanged washer on your plug, be very suspect of messing with it. These washers were used on XLH oil tank drains. That means someone has installed one on your drain plug. That can't happen unless the plug has been removed. Remember its ham fisted plug r&r that causes striped plugs. Think hard about that when looking at your brass washer.(( Dr Dick of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=2001890)) ​+UNDERSTAND THE PLUG DESTROYS THREAD INTEGRITY IN CASE ON REMOVAL. The thread may look ok but if they arent--- you will know on re-torque. If you have a brass flanged washer on your plug, be very suspect of messing with it. These washers were used on XLH oil tank drains. That means someone has installed one on your drain plug. That can't happen unless the plug has been removed. Remember its ham fisted plug r&r that causes striped plugs. Think hard about that when looking at your brass washer.(( Dr Dick of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​187446-contributions-from-dr-dick?​t=2001890)) ​
 </​blockquote>​ </​blockquote>​
  
   * This one is cracked across to the edge of the case.   * This one is cracked across to the edge of the case.
  
-|{{:techtalk:​ih:​engmech:​1968_drain_plug_crack_by_nakina.jpg?​direct&​300|}}| +|{{techtalk:​ih:​oil:​1968_drain_plug_crack_by_nakina.jpg?​direct&​300|}}| 
-|  Cracked case at the crankcase drain plug on a 1968 XLCH  ((photo by nakina of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=1974050&​highlight=stripped+threads)) ​ |+|  Cracked case at the crankcase drain plug on a 1968 XLCH  ((photo by nakina of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​183449-68-xlch-case-inspection?​t=1974050&​highlight=stripped+threads)) ​ |
  
-===== L69-E71 ​cases =====+===== L69-E71 ​Cases ===== 
 +Late 1969, all 1970 and some early 71 cases came with no motor drains from the factory. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://​www.xlforum.net/​forum/​sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​146855-why-crankcase-case-drain-plugs-strip?​t=1595420)) \\
  
-Late 1969, all 1970 and some early 71 cases came with no motor drains from the factory. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​t=1595420)) \\ +|1969 XLCH with no sump drains. ((photo by ironheadjunkie of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​146855-why-crankcase-case-drain-plugs-strip?​t=1595420))| 
- +|{{techtalk:​ih:​oil:​69_xlch_2_by_ironheadjunkie.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|
-|1969 XLCH with no sump drains. ((photo by ironheadjunkie of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=1595420))| +
-|{{:techtalk:​ih:​engmech:​69_xlch_2_by_ironheadjunkie.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|+
  
 ===== 77 and Later Cases ===== ===== 77 and Later Cases =====
- +The "drain plug" on the bottom of the case is either ​pressed or threaded plug that caps the oil scavenging ​rifling hole. ((bobbystat of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​181232-the-simple-purpose-of-the-case-drain-plug?​t=1950691)) \\
-The "drain plug" on the bottom of the case is simply ​a threaded plug that caps the oil scavenging ​passageway. ((bobbystat of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=1950691)) \\+
 The MoCo drilled from the bottom of the case to the horizontal oil passage in the gearcase. \\ The MoCo drilled from the bottom of the case to the horizontal oil passage in the gearcase. \\
 This connects the crankcase sump oil to the scavenge port of the oil pump and the hole is plugged on the bottom. \\ This connects the crankcase sump oil to the scavenge port of the oil pump and the hole is plugged on the bottom. \\
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 Oil from cylinder drains, crankpin, pushrods and cam chest that collects in the sump is fed to the pump by crankcase pressure and pump suction through this hole. \\ Oil from cylinder drains, crankpin, pushrods and cam chest that collects in the sump is fed to the pump by crankcase pressure and pump suction through this hole. \\
  
-|  Case & Tranny Drain Plugs on a 1978 engine ((photo by IronMick of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=806833&​highlight=drilling+tapping+drain&​page=2)) ​ |  Case Drain Plug on a 1977 engine ((photos by bobbystat of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=1950691)) ​ || +|  Case & Tranny Drain Plugs on a 1978 engine ((photo by IronMick of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​96156-drilling-and-tapping-sump-plug-in-place-73xlch/​page2?​t=806833&​highlight=drilling+tapping+drain&​page=2)) ​ |  Case Drain Plug on a 1977 engine ((photos by bobbystat of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​181232-the-simple-purpose-of-the-case-drain-plug?​t=1950691)) ​ || 
-|{{:​techtalk:​ih:​engmech:​1978_drain_plugs_by_ironmick.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|{{:techtalk:​ih:​engmech:​1977_case_drain_plug_1_by_bobbystat.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|{{:techtalk:​ih:​engmech:​1977_case_drain_plug_2_by_bobbystat.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|+|{{:​techtalk:​ih:​engmech:​1978_drain_plugs_by_ironmick.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|{{techtalk:​ih:​oil:​1977_case_drain_plug_1_by_bobbystat.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|{{techtalk:​ih:​oil:​1977_case_drain_plug_2_by_bobbystat.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|
  
-===== Why are metal particles in the oil? =====+====== Why are metal particles in the oil? ======
 There will normally be a certain amount of metal '​mush'​ in the oil tank as engine parts wear. \\ There will normally be a certain amount of metal '​mush'​ in the oil tank as engine parts wear. \\
 The most (as in normal wear) will be evident at the first oil change after a fresh engine build. \\ The most (as in normal wear) will be evident at the first oil change after a fresh engine build. \\
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 You can drop a magnet wrapped in coat hanger wire into the oil tank and check for suspended particles. \\ You can drop a magnet wrapped in coat hanger wire into the oil tank and check for suspended particles. \\
  
-|  Metal content after first 1000 miles. ((photo by DirtyCory of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​p=4514045#post4514045))  |  Metal content after first 600 miles. ((photo by simeli of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​p=4514045#post4514045))  |+|  Metal content after first 1000 miles. ((photo by DirtyCory of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​127032-getting-this-78-back-to-the-way-it-should-be/​page53#post3293495))  |  Metal content after first 600 miles. ((photo by simeli of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​127032-getting-this-78-back-to-the-way-it-should-be/​page53#post3293495))  |
 |{{:​techtalk:​ref:​oil:​using_a_magnet_in_the_oil_tank_by_dirtycory.jpg?​direct&​400|}}|{{:​techtalk:​ref:​oil:​using_a_magnet_in_the_oil_tank_by_simeli.jpg?​direct&​300|}}| |{{:​techtalk:​ref:​oil:​using_a_magnet_in_the_oil_tank_by_dirtycory.jpg?​direct&​400|}}|{{:​techtalk:​ref:​oil:​using_a_magnet_in_the_oil_tank_by_simeli.jpg?​direct&​300|}}|
  
-The usual rule of thumb when viewing the magnet is look at the quality of the particles, not the quantity. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​p=4514045#post4514045)) \\+The usual rule of thumb when viewing the magnet is look at the quality of the particles, not the quantity. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​127032-getting-this-78-back-to-the-way-it-should-be/​page53#post3293495)) \\
 You can take a pinch of the particles off the magnet and rub them between your finger and thumb. \\ You can take a pinch of the particles off the magnet and rub them between your finger and thumb. \\
 If it feels soft and smooth like mud, all is ok. \\ If it feels soft and smooth like mud, all is ok. \\
-It's like small clumps of very fine material. They array themselves like little tepees on the magnet. ((simeli of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​p=4514045#post4514045))\\+It's like small clumps of very fine material. They array themselves like little tepees on the magnet. ((simeli of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​127032-getting-this-78-back-to-the-way-it-should-be/​page53#post3293495))\\
 In cleaning them completely off with a paper towel, it looks like a mixture of oil and graphite on the towel. \\ In cleaning them completely off with a paper towel, it looks like a mixture of oil and graphite on the towel. \\
  
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 ====== Recycling Your Used Oil ====== ====== Recycling Your Used Oil ======
- 
   * Did you know used oil can be re-refined into base stock for lubricating oil? \\ If you recycle just two gallons of used oil it can generate enough electricity to run the average household for almost 24 hours.   * Did you know used oil can be re-refined into base stock for lubricating oil? \\ If you recycle just two gallons of used oil it can generate enough electricity to run the average household for almost 24 hours.
   * We are all familiar with recycling newspapers, aluminum cans, glass and plastic bottles. \\ But you may not be aware of the efforts of the petroleum industry and other groups to promote used motor oil recycling.   * We are all familiar with recycling newspapers, aluminum cans, glass and plastic bottles. \\ But you may not be aware of the efforts of the petroleum industry and other groups to promote used motor oil recycling.
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 ====== Choosing an Engine Oil ====== ====== Choosing an Engine Oil ======
 ==== What Kind or Brand of Oil To Use for a Sportster ==== ==== What Kind or Brand of Oil To Use for a Sportster ====
- +{{:​techtalk:​ref:​oil:​55_gallon_oil_drum_by_jonesl.jpg?​direct&​200 |}} 
-  * First answer is to use the HD recommendations in the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your year model. \\ The chart below shows some recommendations for the use of HD oils. \\ And you can contact your nearest HD dealer for current recommendations on the oil they are selling for your ride. \\ See also [[techtalk:​ref:​oil01#​Choosing an Engine Oil Other Than HD Brand]]+  * ((photo by JonesL of the XLFORUM https://​www.xlforum.net/​forum/​sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/​199049-oil-hungry-iron-heads#​post4377606)) ​First answer is to use the HD recommendations in the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your year model. \\ The chart below shows some recommendations for the use of HD oils. \\ And you can contact your nearest HD dealer for current recommendations on the oil they are selling for your ride. \\ See also [[techtalk:​ref:​oil01#​Choosing an Engine Oil Other Than HD Brand]]
   * The MoCo has a vested interest in keeping your engine healthy and knows exactly what oil their engines like. \\ Plus, no one ever damaged an engine by changing its oil too often. \\ If you want to keep your engine healthy, regular oil changes using the recommended weight and quality of oil is the easiest way to do it.   * The MoCo has a vested interest in keeping your engine healthy and knows exactly what oil their engines like. \\ Plus, no one ever damaged an engine by changing its oil too often. \\ If you want to keep your engine healthy, regular oil changes using the recommended weight and quality of oil is the easiest way to do it.
   * **Development of Genuine Harley Davidson Motorcycle Oil**. ((MMI Fact Sheet on the Development ​ of Harley Davidson Genuine Motorcycle Oil pg 1)) \\ In the late 70's, complaints were received by the MoCo from recreation and touring riders experiencing valve sticking problems. ​   * **Development of Genuine Harley Davidson Motorcycle Oil**. ((MMI Fact Sheet on the Development ​ of Harley Davidson Genuine Motorcycle Oil pg 1)) \\ In the late 70's, complaints were received by the MoCo from recreation and touring riders experiencing valve sticking problems. ​
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       * Therefore, HD 240 oil was labeled meaning that the tests take an average of 240 hours before the min. test criteria was reached.       * Therefore, HD 240 oil was labeled meaning that the tests take an average of 240 hours before the min. test criteria was reached.
         * The closest any other oil came to the testing criteria was 220 hours. \\ (but that was the best synthetic which, at the time, cost an average of four times that of the Harley oil)         * The closest any other oil came to the testing criteria was 220 hours. \\ (but that was the best synthetic which, at the time, cost an average of four times that of the Harley oil)
 +
 ===== Current HD Engine Oil Recommendations ===== ===== Current HD Engine Oil Recommendations =====
   * See also: [[techtalk:​ref:​oil01#​HD Engine Oil Recommendations Per Year Model]]   * See also: [[techtalk:​ref:​oil01#​HD Engine Oil Recommendations Per Year Model]]
   * Use proper grade of HD (or equivalent) oil for the lowest expected temperature before next oil change. ((1986-1990 HD Sportster FSM))   * Use proper grade of HD (or equivalent) oil for the lowest expected temperature before next oil change. ((1986-1990 HD Sportster FSM))
-  * HD oil rating in 1989 was HD-240. ((1986-1990 HD Sportster FSM pg 1-6)) \\ The number represents the hours that Harley tested the oil before it started to break down. \\ 240 hours of running time really is a long way. \\ When they went to 360 it was because they went to 5000 mile service . ((buckeyejake of the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=1995066&​page=2))+  * HD oil rating in 1989 was HD-240. ((1986-1990 HD Sportster FSM pg 1-6)) \\ The number represents the hours that Harley tested the oil before it started to break down. \\ 240 hours of running time really is a long way. \\ When they went to 360 it was because they went to 5000 mile service . ((buckeyejake of the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​lubrication-and-lubricants/​186666-any-good-reason-to-not-use-h-d-syn3/​page2?​t=1995066&​page=2))
  
 ^Year Model^Amount (with filter replaced)^ ^Year Model^Amount (with filter replaced)^
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 |2004-2007|<​del>​3.6 quarts (3.4 liters)</​del>​ \\ 2.8 quarts (2.65 liters) \\ (see below)| |2004-2007|<​del>​3.6 quarts (3.4 liters)</​del>​ \\ 2.8 quarts (2.65 liters) \\ (see below)|
  
-  * Tech Tip #312 - 6/15/07 - Quote: 2004-2007 Sportster Oil Capacity - Service literature for 2004-2007 XL models incorrectly lists oil capacity as 3.6 quarts (3.4 liters). The correct amount listed should be 2.8 quarts (2.65 liters). Oil capacities listed are approximately the amount required to bring the fluid level near the full mark on the dipstick. Service Note: Be aware that the dipstick has a Full mark to indicate the highest level of oil that should be installed in a hot engine and an Add mark to indicate the lowest level of oil in a cold engine. The engine is designed to operate correctly with the oil level in the range between these two marks. While it is most important to not overfill the system, it is acceptable to operate the motorcycle with the oil level anywhere in the range between the Full and Add marks. ((Chris Hajer - http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?t=66800)) (This may be oil change only without the filter.)+  * Tech Tip #312 - 6/15/07 - Quote: 2004-2007 Sportster Oil Capacity - Service literature for 2004-2007 XL models incorrectly lists oil capacity as 3.6 quarts (3.4 liters). The correct amount listed should be 2.8 quarts (2.65 liters). Oil capacities listed are approximately the amount required to bring the fluid level near the full mark on the dipstick. Service Note: Be aware that the dipstick has a Full mark to indicate the highest level of oil that should be installed in a hot engine and an Add mark to indicate the lowest level of oil in a cold engine. The engine is designed to operate correctly with the oil level in the range between these two marks. While it is most important to not overfill the system, it is acceptable to operate the motorcycle with the oil level anywhere in the range between the Full and Add marks. ((Chris Hajer - https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​lubrication-and-lubricants/​34970-correction-2004-xl-oil-capacity-2-8-qts?t=66800)) (This may be oil change only without the filter.)
  
 ^HD Type Oil^Viscosity^HD Rating^Ambient Temp.^Cold Weather Starts Below 50F^  ​ ^HD Type Oil^Viscosity^HD Rating^Ambient Temp.^Cold Weather Starts Below 50F^  ​
-|Screamin Eagle Syn 3 (fully synthetic)|SAE 20W50|HD360|Above 30F(-1C)|Excellent((shanneba from the XLFORUM- ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​threadid=1977919))| +|Screamin Eagle Syn 3 (fully synthetic)|SAE 20W50|HD360|Above 30F(-1C)|Excellent((shanneba from the XLFORUM- ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​lubrication-and-lubricants/​184049-engine-oil-101-for-the-wiki?​threadid=1977919))| 
-|HD Multi-grade (petroleum)|SAE 20W50|HD 360|Above 40F (4C)|Good((shanneba from the XLFORUM- ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​threadid=1977919))| +|HD Multi-grade (petroleum)|SAE 20W50|HD 360|Above 40F (4C)|Good((shanneba from the XLFORUM- ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​lubrication-and-lubricants/​184049-engine-oil-101-for-the-wiki?​threadid=1977919))| 
-|HD Mulitigrade (petroleum)|SAE 10W40|HD 360|Below 40F (4C)|Excellent ((shanneba from the XLFORUM- ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​threadid=1977919))|+|HD Mulitigrade (petroleum)|SAE 10W40|HD 360|Below 40F (4C)|Excellent ((shanneba from the XLFORUM- ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​lubrication-and-lubricants/​184049-engine-oil-101-for-the-wiki?​threadid=1977919))|
 |HD Regular Heavy (petroleum)|SAE 50|HD 360|Above 60F (16C)|Poor((1986-1990 HD Sportster FSM pg 1-6))| |HD Regular Heavy (petroleum)|SAE 50|HD 360|Above 60F (16C)|Poor((1986-1990 HD Sportster FSM pg 1-6))|
 |HD Extra Heavy (petroleum)|SAE 60|HD 360|Above 80F (27C)|Poor((1986-1990 HD Sportster FSM pg 1-6))| |HD Extra Heavy (petroleum)|SAE 60|HD 360|Above 80F (27C)|Poor((1986-1990 HD Sportster FSM pg 1-6))|
  
-^In the absence of HD 360 oils, HD recommends using oil certified for diesel engines((shanneba from the XLFORUM- ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?t=1977919))^^+^In the absence of HD 360 oils, HD recommends using oil certified for diesel engines((shanneba from the XLFORUM- ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​lubrication-and-lubricants/​184049-engine-oil-101-for-the-wiki?threadid=1977919))^^
 |Acceptable API Ratings|Acceptable SAE Viscosity Rating in Descending Order| |Acceptable API Ratings|Acceptable SAE Viscosity Rating in Descending Order|
 |CH-4, CI-4 and CJ-4|20W-50,​ 15W-40 and 10W-40| |CH-4, CI-4 and CJ-4|20W-50,​ 15W-40 and 10W-40|
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 ^                     |HD Medium Light|40F to 60F| ^                     |HD Medium Light|40F to 60F|
 ^                     |HD Regular Heavy|60F and up| ^                     |HD Regular Heavy|60F and up|
-^                     |HDExtra ​Heavy Grade 60|severe engine operating conditions >85F|+^                     |HD Premium II Extra Heavy Grade 60 (API SF) ((HD P&A Bulletin #186 dated July 1, 1982))|severe engine operating conditions >85F|
  
 ^Year Model^Harley Davidson Type Oil^Viscosity^HD Rating^Ambient Temperature F^Cold Weather Starts Below 50F^ ^Year Model^Harley Davidson Type Oil^Viscosity^HD Rating^Ambient Temperature F^Cold Weather Starts Below 50F^
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   * **The** [[techtalk:​ref:​oil01#​Engine Oil Comparison Charts]] also  include any published Jaso ratings and wet clutch verbage from the respective brands sampled.   * **The** [[techtalk:​ref:​oil01#​Engine Oil Comparison Charts]] also  include any published Jaso ratings and wet clutch verbage from the respective brands sampled.
   * See more about [[techtalk:​ref:​oil01#​JASO Oil Specifications]] for wet clutch transmissions.  ​   * See more about [[techtalk:​ref:​oil01#​JASO Oil Specifications]] for wet clutch transmissions.  ​
- 
- 
- 
  
 ==== Engine Oil Comparison Charts ==== ==== Engine Oil Comparison Charts ====
   * These charts were compiled solely from SDS, TDS and other published data from the respective companies. There are many brands on the list and many more that are not. The charts serve as a comparison to oil company claims as well as to what you are using. However, a used oil analysis will confirm more about the oil you use for your engine than these charts can. If your brand is not included here, you can search their respective website for MSDS, SDS, TDS, and PDS information where you can find all the information available from them as is included in these charts.   * These charts were compiled solely from SDS, TDS and other published data from the respective companies. There are many brands on the list and many more that are not. The charts serve as a comparison to oil company claims as well as to what you are using. However, a used oil analysis will confirm more about the oil you use for your engine than these charts can. If your brand is not included here, you can search their respective website for MSDS, SDS, TDS, and PDS information where you can find all the information available from them as is included in these charts.
   * MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets), which has been renamed to SDS (Safety Data Sheets) and TDS (Technical Data Sheets) which is also published as PDS (Product Data Sheets). You will find that some manufacturers do not update their charts as well as others. You will also find that some information in the SDS is different than the information in the TDS of the same oil bottle. ​   * MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets), which has been renamed to SDS (Safety Data Sheets) and TDS (Technical Data Sheets) which is also published as PDS (Product Data Sheets). You will find that some manufacturers do not update their charts as well as others. You will also find that some information in the SDS is different than the information in the TDS of the same oil bottle. ​
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 ===== Choosing an Oil by API Rating ===== ===== Choosing an Oil by API Rating =====
-  
   * **Choose an oil made for 4 stroke motorcycles** with an API rating [[techtalk:​ref:​oil01#​API Oil Specifications]] that is pre-API SM with an SAE viscosity comparable to HD recommendations for your bike. Most motorcycle oils are formulated with the API SG, SH and SL ratings range. There are lower viscosity grades that also carry the same API ratings as the higher ones.    * **Choose an oil made for 4 stroke motorcycles** with an API rating [[techtalk:​ref:​oil01#​API Oil Specifications]] that is pre-API SM with an SAE viscosity comparable to HD recommendations for your bike. Most motorcycle oils are formulated with the API SG, SH and SL ratings range. There are lower viscosity grades that also carry the same API ratings as the higher ones. 
   * **Zinc dialkyl dithiophoshate (or ZDDP)** [[techtalk:​ref:​oil01#​ZDDP]] is the proven and trusted anti-wear agent (basically a mix of Zinc and Phosphorous) that is being slowly phased out from oil products by mandates from the EPA.   * **Zinc dialkyl dithiophoshate (or ZDDP)** [[techtalk:​ref:​oil01#​ZDDP]] is the proven and trusted anti-wear agent (basically a mix of Zinc and Phosphorous) that is being slowly phased out from oil products by mandates from the EPA.
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 ===== Conventional VS Synthetic ​ ===== ===== Conventional VS Synthetic ​ =====
- 
   * In time, any engine lubricant will have a diminished ability to perform its job, which is to lubricate metal-to-metal contact surfaces and to transfer heat away from the area being lubricated. ​   * In time, any engine lubricant will have a diminished ability to perform its job, which is to lubricate metal-to-metal contact surfaces and to transfer heat away from the area being lubricated. ​
   * Heat and oxidation are the primary reasons for oil break down. The diminished ability to lubricate increases as the molecules of various size and weight are consumed by evaporation and oxidation. ​   * Heat and oxidation are the primary reasons for oil break down. The diminished ability to lubricate increases as the molecules of various size and weight are consumed by evaporation and oxidation. ​
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         * The fastest and most significant drop in the viscosity of petroleum-based oils used in motorcycles occurs during the first 800 miles (or less) of use.((http://​www.ducatimeccanica.com/​oil.html))         * The fastest and most significant drop in the viscosity of petroleum-based oils used in motorcycles occurs during the first 800 miles (or less) of use.((http://​www.ducatimeccanica.com/​oil.html))
         * Conventional oils also contain the viscosity index improvers to resist thinning at high temperatures. These additives along with other impurities tend to shear down and boil off as well. All of these factors tend to contribute to oil consumption and depositing.((http://​www.oildepot.ca/​synthetic-oil-pros-cons/​)).         * Conventional oils also contain the viscosity index improvers to resist thinning at high temperatures. These additives along with other impurities tend to shear down and boil off as well. All of these factors tend to contribute to oil consumption and depositing.((http://​www.oildepot.ca/​synthetic-oil-pros-cons/​)).
-    ​ 
  
   * **Synthetic oil**: The word "​Synthetic"​ is a marketing term, not a technical term and is not part of the API Classification. ((https://​www.infineum.com/​media/​80723/​api-engine-oil-classifications.pdf))It is purified and broken down into its basic molecules. This process not only removes more impurities from the crude oil but also enables individual molecules in the oil to be tailored to the demands of modern engines. These customized molecules (with a tailored blend of additives) provide higher levels of protection and performance than conventional oils.((https://​mobiloil.com/​en/​article/​car-maintenance/​learn-about-motor-oil-facts/​synthetic-oil-vs-conventional-oil?​WT.ac=Home-T2_SyntheticVsConventional))   * **Synthetic oil**: The word "​Synthetic"​ is a marketing term, not a technical term and is not part of the API Classification. ((https://​www.infineum.com/​media/​80723/​api-engine-oil-classifications.pdf))It is purified and broken down into its basic molecules. This process not only removes more impurities from the crude oil but also enables individual molecules in the oil to be tailored to the demands of modern engines. These customized molecules (with a tailored blend of additives) provide higher levels of protection and performance than conventional oils.((https://​mobiloil.com/​en/​article/​car-maintenance/​learn-about-motor-oil-facts/​synthetic-oil-vs-conventional-oil?​WT.ac=Home-T2_SyntheticVsConventional))
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 ===== Car Oil vs Motorcycle Oil ===== ===== Car Oil vs Motorcycle Oil =====
- 
   * Motorcycles are harder on oils than cars.((http://​www.ducatimeccanica.com/​oil.html))   * Motorcycles are harder on oils than cars.((http://​www.ducatimeccanica.com/​oil.html))
   * The viscosities of petroleum-based oils, whether designed for auto or motorcycle application,​ drop at approximately the same rate when used in a motorcycle.((http://​www.ducatimeccanica.com/​oil.html))   * The viscosities of petroleum-based oils, whether designed for auto or motorcycle application,​ drop at approximately the same rate when used in a motorcycle.((http://​www.ducatimeccanica.com/​oil.html))
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 ===== Base Oils and Refining ===== ===== Base Oils and Refining =====
- 
   *  The American Petroleum Institute (API) has categorized base oils into five categories (API 1509, Appendix E). The first three groups are refined from petroleum crude oil. Group IV base oils are full synthetic (polyalphaolefin) oils. Group V is for all other base oils not included in Groups I through IV. Before all the additives are added to the mixture, lubricating oils begin as one or more of these five API groups.((http://​www.machinerylubrication.com/​Read/​29113/​base-oil-groups))   *  The American Petroleum Institute (API) has categorized base oils into five categories (API 1509, Appendix E). The first three groups are refined from petroleum crude oil. Group IV base oils are full synthetic (polyalphaolefin) oils. Group V is for all other base oils not included in Groups I through IV. Before all the additives are added to the mixture, lubricating oils begin as one or more of these five API groups.((http://​www.machinerylubrication.com/​Read/​29113/​base-oil-groups))
   * There are several different base oils available to formulate motor oils. The base oils used in the 1960’s are what we now call API Group I, although some fall in the high aromatic sub classification and then some in the low aromatic sub-classification (important when discussing additives). Some companies also use their own marketing phrases like “Group 1-1/2” and “Group 2+”. ​   * There are several different base oils available to formulate motor oils. The base oils used in the 1960’s are what we now call API Group I, although some fall in the high aromatic sub classification and then some in the low aromatic sub-classification (important when discussing additives). Some companies also use their own marketing phrases like “Group 1-1/2” and “Group 2+”. ​
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     * **Group IV oils** are PAO (Polyalphaolefin) synthetics . These are excellent lubricants but have very low solvency when used by themselves, not mixing well with other oils, additives or contaminants,​ and causing hardening of seals and gaskets. Fully formulated PAO based oils use esters or other ingredients to increase their solvency. These synthetic base oils are made through a process called synthesizing. They have a much broader temperature range and are great for use in extreme cold conditions and high heat applications.((http://​www.machinerylubrication.com/​Read/​29113/​base-oil-groups))     * **Group IV oils** are PAO (Polyalphaolefin) synthetics . These are excellent lubricants but have very low solvency when used by themselves, not mixing well with other oils, additives or contaminants,​ and causing hardening of seals and gaskets. Fully formulated PAO based oils use esters or other ingredients to increase their solvency. These synthetic base oils are made through a process called synthesizing. They have a much broader temperature range and are great for use in extreme cold conditions and high heat applications.((http://​www.machinerylubrication.com/​Read/​29113/​base-oil-groups))
     * **Group V oils** are everything else synthetic including silicone, phosphate ester, polyalkylene glycol (PAG), polyolester,​ biolubes, etc.((http://​www.machinerylubrication.com/​Read/​29113/​base-oil-groups)) In general the esters and diesters of various formulations are used to mix in small percentages with PAO oils to give the necessary solvency and help them maintain a clean engine, softening the seals to avoid leakage. Ester oils can take more abuse at higher temperatures and will provide superior detergency compared to a PAO synthetic base oils.((http://​www.machinerylubrication.com/​Read/​29113/​base-oil-groups)) The category also includes other types of oils used for specialty products or to thicken group I, II, III or IV oils. ((http://​www.widman.biz/​uploads/​Corvair_oil.pdf))     * **Group V oils** are everything else synthetic including silicone, phosphate ester, polyalkylene glycol (PAG), polyolester,​ biolubes, etc.((http://​www.machinerylubrication.com/​Read/​29113/​base-oil-groups)) In general the esters and diesters of various formulations are used to mix in small percentages with PAO oils to give the necessary solvency and help them maintain a clean engine, softening the seals to avoid leakage. Ester oils can take more abuse at higher temperatures and will provide superior detergency compared to a PAO synthetic base oils.((http://​www.machinerylubrication.com/​Read/​29113/​base-oil-groups)) The category also includes other types of oils used for specialty products or to thicken group I, II, III or IV oils. ((http://​www.widman.biz/​uploads/​Corvair_oil.pdf))
- 
  
 ==== De-waxing ==== ==== De-waxing ====
 +  * Paraffinic crudes need to be de-waxed. In de-waxing the oil is blended with a solvent with which it is miscible. The mixture is cooled, the N-alkanes will crystallize and can then be filtrated off. The solvent is subsequently removed by distillation.((http://​www.engnetglobal.com/​documents/​pdfcatalog/​NYN001_200412073535_Base%20oil%20handbookENG.pdf))
  
-  * Paraffinic crudes need to be de-waxed. In de-waxing the oil is blended with a solvent with which it is miscible. The mixture is cooled, the N-alkanes will crystallize and can then be filtrated off. The solvent is subsequently removed by distillation.((http://​www.engnetglobal.com/​documents/​pdfcatalog/​NYN001_200412073535_Base%20oil%20handbookENG.pdf)) 
 ==== Extraction ==== ==== Extraction ====
   * Extraction is one of the oldest methods of removing unstable molecules from a distillate. The oil is mixed with a solvent (SO2 or furfural) that forms a separate phase. Aromatic and hetero-aromatic molecules will to some extent dissolve in the solvent phase and can be removed. Due to the equilibrium between the two phases, the amount of aromatics in the raffinate phase lies between 5 and 11%. After the extraction step, a mild hydrogenation is usually performed.((http://​www.engnetglobal.com/​documents/​pdfcatalog/​NYN001_200412073535_Base%20oil%20handbookENG.pdf))   * Extraction is one of the oldest methods of removing unstable molecules from a distillate. The oil is mixed with a solvent (SO2 or furfural) that forms a separate phase. Aromatic and hetero-aromatic molecules will to some extent dissolve in the solvent phase and can be removed. Due to the equilibrium between the two phases, the amount of aromatics in the raffinate phase lies between 5 and 11%. After the extraction step, a mild hydrogenation is usually performed.((http://​www.engnetglobal.com/​documents/​pdfcatalog/​NYN001_200412073535_Base%20oil%20handbookENG.pdf))
 +
 ==== Hydrogenation ==== ==== Hydrogenation ====
   * De-waxing and extraction are based on physical methods. Hydrogenation is a chemical conversion of undesirable and environmentally dangerous molecules into harmless compounds. ​   * De-waxing and extraction are based on physical methods. Hydrogenation is a chemical conversion of undesirable and environmentally dangerous molecules into harmless compounds. ​
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 ==== Oil Additives ==== ==== Oil Additives ====
- 
    * In the 1930s a wax modifier was added to oil to address the problem of wax residue after the refining process. Thus began the use of additives in the formulation of motor oil. Today, motor oils contain a variety of ingredients designed to improve their performance capabilities. ((http://​www.upmpg.com/​tech_articles/​oil_bottle.htm))    * In the 1930s a wax modifier was added to oil to address the problem of wax residue after the refining process. Thus began the use of additives in the formulation of motor oil. Today, motor oils contain a variety of ingredients designed to improve their performance capabilities. ((http://​www.upmpg.com/​tech_articles/​oil_bottle.htm))
   * The more stable the base oil, the less additives are needed. In general a Group II oil will have better performance with 10% less additives than a Group I oil.   * The more stable the base oil, the less additives are needed. In general a Group II oil will have better performance with 10% less additives than a Group I oil.
   * As running time accumulates,​ the additives degrade and the oil "falls out of grade."​ In essence, your 10W30 turns into a 10W20 or worse, hence the need for regular oil changes.((http://​www.motorcyclecruiser.com/​tips-tech/​beginners-guide-to-oil-how-it-works))   * As running time accumulates,​ the additives degrade and the oil "falls out of grade."​ In essence, your 10W30 turns into a 10W20 or worse, hence the need for regular oil changes.((http://​www.motorcyclecruiser.com/​tips-tech/​beginners-guide-to-oil-how-it-works))
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   ​   ​
 **SURFACE PROTECTION ADDITIVES** **SURFACE PROTECTION ADDITIVES**
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     * **Metal deactivators** are used to reduce catalytic effect of metals on the oxidation rate.     * **Metal deactivators** are used to reduce catalytic effect of metals on the oxidation rate.
  
 +----
  
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 ==== Mixing Oils/ Oil Additives ==== ==== Mixing Oils/ Oil Additives ====
 Many oil manufacturers publicize that their synthetic oils can be mixed with other synthetics as well as petroleum oils but the practice is discouraged due to the fact that in doing so would alter the additive blend and general base qualities of the mix with possible detrimental effects to your engine. ​ Many oil manufacturers publicize that their synthetic oils can be mixed with other synthetics as well as petroleum oils but the practice is discouraged due to the fact that in doing so would alter the additive blend and general base qualities of the mix with possible detrimental effects to your engine. ​
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 === Phosphorus === === Phosphorus ===
 Phosphorus is a key component for wear protection in an engine and 1600ppm (parts per million) used to be the standard for phosphorus in engine oil. In 1996 that was dropped to 800ppm and then more recently to 400ppm - a quarter of the original spec. Valvetrains and their components are not especially cheap to replace and this drop in phosphorus content has been a problem for many engines. So why was the level dropped? Money. Next to lead, it's the second most destructive substance to shove through a catalytic converter. The US government mandated a 150,000 mile lifetime on catalytic converters and the quickest way to do that was to drop phosphorus levels and bugger the valve train problem. ​ Phosphorus is a key component for wear protection in an engine and 1600ppm (parts per million) used to be the standard for phosphorus in engine oil. In 1996 that was dropped to 800ppm and then more recently to 400ppm - a quarter of the original spec. Valvetrains and their components are not especially cheap to replace and this drop in phosphorus content has been a problem for many engines. So why was the level dropped? Money. Next to lead, it's the second most destructive substance to shove through a catalytic converter. The US government mandated a 150,000 mile lifetime on catalytic converters and the quickest way to do that was to drop phosphorus levels and bugger the valve train problem. ​
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- 
  
 === Boron Additives in Oil === === Boron Additives in Oil ===
- +By MolaKule ​ ((hexnut from the XLFORUM  ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​lubrication-and-lubricants/​181135-oil-testing-reading?​t=1949300&​highlight=ZDDPlus))
- +
-By MolaKule ​ ((hexnut from the XLFORUM  ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=1949300&​highlight=ZDDPlus)) +
  
   * This white paper discusses the mechanics and chemistry of Boron Compounds as additives in Motor Oils, Gear Lubes, and Greases.   * This white paper discusses the mechanics and chemistry of Boron Compounds as additives in Motor Oils, Gear Lubes, and Greases.
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     * Many lubricating oils and greases now contain borates in various forms to reduce wear by the action of these solid borate films, which act as AW and EP additives. When used with the dithiocarbamate family of antimony’s and moly’s, corrosion and antioxidant resistant greases can be formulated as well to provide the same EP and AW qualities.     * Many lubricating oils and greases now contain borates in various forms to reduce wear by the action of these solid borate films, which act as AW and EP additives. When used with the dithiocarbamate family of antimony’s and moly’s, corrosion and antioxidant resistant greases can be formulated as well to provide the same EP and AW qualities.
     * A side benefit of the borates in motor oils and gear lubricants is their action as mild detergents and as acid reducing agents. Their alkili chemistry helps to retain the oil's TBN, or Total Base Number as well.     * A side benefit of the borates in motor oils and gear lubricants is their action as mild detergents and as acid reducing agents. Their alkili chemistry helps to retain the oil's TBN, or Total Base Number as well.
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     * **Direct Reading Ferrograph**:​ The DR unit separates wear debris from the lubricant according to size. The WPC, summation of DL and DS, provides a trendable quantity for monitoring the wear condition of a piece of equipment. Fluctuations in the WPC suggest an abnormal condition in the component or possible contamination.((https://​www.tricocorp.com/​services/​oil-analysis/​used-oil-analysis/​))     * **Direct Reading Ferrograph**:​ The DR unit separates wear debris from the lubricant according to size. The WPC, summation of DL and DS, provides a trendable quantity for monitoring the wear condition of a piece of equipment. Fluctuations in the WPC suggest an abnormal condition in the component or possible contamination.((https://​www.tricocorp.com/​services/​oil-analysis/​used-oil-analysis/​))
     * Chlorine, Emulsified oil, Grease, On-Spec Waste Oil, PCB analysis (full), PCB screen, Soot, Oil + % Ash, Solvent, Specific Gravity, Sulfur, Total Halogens (TOX), Total Halogens Screen, ​ Viscosity Index, ​     * Chlorine, Emulsified oil, Grease, On-Spec Waste Oil, PCB analysis (full), PCB screen, Soot, Oil + % Ash, Solvent, Specific Gravity, Sulfur, Total Halogens (TOX), Total Halogens Screen, ​ Viscosity Index, ​
- 
  
   * **The spectral analysis process itself isn't '​perfect'​ science**. The oil is sparked (or “burned”) between a rotating carbon disc electrode and a carbon rod electrode. The sample is placed in a sample cap, the disc is partially immersed in the oil sample and the disc rotates as the burn proceeds. ((http://​www.spectrosci.com/​default/​assets/​File/​SpectroSci_OilAnalysisHandbook_FINAL_2014-08.pdf))   * **The spectral analysis process itself isn't '​perfect'​ science**. The oil is sparked (or “burned”) between a rotating carbon disc electrode and a carbon rod electrode. The sample is placed in a sample cap, the disc is partially immersed in the oil sample and the disc rotates as the burn proceeds. ((http://​www.spectrosci.com/​default/​assets/​File/​SpectroSci_OilAnalysisHandbook_FINAL_2014-08.pdf))
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 ===== First Step to Getting Used Oil Analyzed ===== ===== First Step to Getting Used Oil Analyzed =====
- 
   * There are hundreds of oil testing companies out there. Doing an internet search will provide many different companies to choose from.   * There are hundreds of oil testing companies out there. Doing an internet search will provide many different companies to choose from.
   * Choose one near you or that you feel comfortable with, contact them for a sample kit to be delivered to you. Some of the kits are sent free to you and you'll be charged when the sampling is done but be sure to get that information out in the open first. You can also buy kits around the net and at some auto parts stores.   * Choose one near you or that you feel comfortable with, contact them for a sample kit to be delivered to you. Some of the kits are sent free to you and you'll be charged when the sampling is done but be sure to get that information out in the open first. You can also buy kits around the net and at some auto parts stores.
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 ==== Collecting an Engine Oil Sample For Testing ==== ==== Collecting an Engine Oil Sample For Testing ====
- 
     * **Basically,​ drain it or suck it out**. First, the old oil must be heated up to operating temp first to allow for debris suspension as in a normal oil change. If your draining ​ it, allow enough oil to exit the drain hose for a few moments before the sample is taken so contaminants that have previously settled in/ around the drain are flushed out.((http://​www.oaitesting.com/​obtaining-sample.aspx)) Try not to get either the first or the last of the oil out of the oil reservoir.((http://​www.blackstone-labs.com/​gas-sampling.php))Some use a turkey baster inserted into the oil tank about halfway down the oil sump to extract the oil sample. A small suction pump can be purchased for this purpose as well.((http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​postid=5469439#​post5469439)) ​         * **Basically,​ drain it or suck it out**. First, the old oil must be heated up to operating temp first to allow for debris suspension as in a normal oil change. If your draining ​ it, allow enough oil to exit the drain hose for a few moments before the sample is taken so contaminants that have previously settled in/ around the drain are flushed out.((http://​www.oaitesting.com/​obtaining-sample.aspx)) Try not to get either the first or the last of the oil out of the oil reservoir.((http://​www.blackstone-labs.com/​gas-sampling.php))Some use a turkey baster inserted into the oil tank about halfway down the oil sump to extract the oil sample. A small suction pump can be purchased for this purpose as well.((http://​xlforum.net/​forums/​showthread.php?​postid=5469439#​post5469439)) ​    
   * **While collecting the sample**, try to fill the sample bottle to the recommended quantity on the sample bottle to give the testing company enough to complete all the testing required. But even if you only have 1 oz., at least a few tests can be performed with that. Call the company if you still have questions before sending the sample to them.   * **While collecting the sample**, try to fill the sample bottle to the recommended quantity on the sample bottle to give the testing company enough to complete all the testing required. But even if you only have 1 oz., at least a few tests can be performed with that. Call the company if you still have questions before sending the sample to them.
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   * **Take samples at regularly scheduled intervals** and always from the same sampling point each time. Document the date and odometer readings at each oil change, how much oil you have added to make up since the last oil change as well as when your next one is due.   * **Take samples at regularly scheduled intervals** and always from the same sampling point each time. Document the date and odometer readings at each oil change, how much oil you have added to make up since the last oil change as well as when your next one is due.
   * **The testing company will let you know** of a change in testing/ change intervals if needed based on certain parameters such as a safety risk, failure history or trending condition of your engine. ​   * **The testing company will let you know** of a change in testing/ change intervals if needed based on certain parameters such as a safety risk, failure history or trending condition of your engine. ​
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 ===== Cost VS Benefit of UOAs ===== ===== Cost VS Benefit of UOAs =====
- 
   * A successful oil analysis program requires an organized and sustained effort. "Both the user and the laboratory must work closely together to achieve the desired results"​((http://​www.synlube.com/​OilAnalysis.html)) is what most testing labs would probably tell you. And, truthfully, they may be correct. End result however is that it is going to cost you money. Not like a house payment but it is more like doubling the price of an oil change at controlled intervals which is ultimately decided by how much you can afford to do. For some people, it's an operating cost they can't afford to assume or do not have time or opportunity (which can also be relevant costs) to work on. Some would say to just change the oil at regular service intervals and save the UOA money for something else. However, you can have a UOA performed only once or however many times you choose so in that sense, you control what you spend. And for some people, it's buying piece of mind for awhile anyway. ​   * A successful oil analysis program requires an organized and sustained effort. "Both the user and the laboratory must work closely together to achieve the desired results"​((http://​www.synlube.com/​OilAnalysis.html)) is what most testing labs would probably tell you. And, truthfully, they may be correct. End result however is that it is going to cost you money. Not like a house payment but it is more like doubling the price of an oil change at controlled intervals which is ultimately decided by how much you can afford to do. For some people, it's an operating cost they can't afford to assume or do not have time or opportunity (which can also be relevant costs) to work on. Some would say to just change the oil at regular service intervals and save the UOA money for something else. However, you can have a UOA performed only once or however many times you choose so in that sense, you control what you spend. And for some people, it's buying piece of mind for awhile anyway. ​
   * Oil analysis can identify any problems developing in your engine long before they cause you an expensive headache. It allows you to get a good look at the microscopic wear your engine is producing. It Lets you know how far you can go between oil changes without hurting your engine. It also tells you if your oil and air filters are doing a good job.((http://​www.blackstone-labs.com/​engine-types.php#​GasEngine))One more important reason to have the oil analyzed is that before buying a used vehicle, bike whichever, a UOA can tell you the state of the engine before you assume the costs of a rebuild. However, since oil analysis can best find problems in oil that has been in use for at least 1000 miles, it won't do much good if the oil has been changed just before being put on the 'for sale' boards.((http://​www.blackstone-labs.com/​lemon-aide.php))  ​   * Oil analysis can identify any problems developing in your engine long before they cause you an expensive headache. It allows you to get a good look at the microscopic wear your engine is producing. It Lets you know how far you can go between oil changes without hurting your engine. It also tells you if your oil and air filters are doing a good job.((http://​www.blackstone-labs.com/​engine-types.php#​GasEngine))One more important reason to have the oil analyzed is that before buying a used vehicle, bike whichever, a UOA can tell you the state of the engine before you assume the costs of a rebuild. However, since oil analysis can best find problems in oil that has been in use for at least 1000 miles, it won't do much good if the oil has been changed just before being put on the 'for sale' boards.((http://​www.blackstone-labs.com/​lemon-aide.php))  ​
  
 ===== More Reading Material on UOAs ===== ===== More Reading Material on UOAs =====
- 
   * Article from Bob's the Oil Guy on Blackstone Lab's processing of oil samples: [[https://​bobistheoilguy.com/​]]   * Article from Bob's the Oil Guy on Blackstone Lab's processing of oil samples: [[https://​bobistheoilguy.com/​]]
   * Spectro Scientific "Oil Analysis Handbook":​ [[http://​www.spectrosci.com/​default/​assets/​File/​SpectroSci_OilAnalysisHandbook_FINAL_2014-08.pdf]]   * Spectro Scientific "Oil Analysis Handbook":​ [[http://​www.spectrosci.com/​default/​assets/​File/​SpectroSci_OilAnalysisHandbook_FINAL_2014-08.pdf]]
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 ===== Used Oil Analysis Charts ===== ===== Used Oil Analysis Charts =====
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   * Click on a chart to enlarge.   * Click on a chart to enlarge.
  
-|{{techtalk:​ref:​raw:​parrotheads_uoa.jpg?​direct&​100|}}((Courtesy of parrothead from the XLFORUM ​http://​xlforum.net/​forums/showthread.php?​t=1995942&​highlight=oil+analysis))|{{techtalk:​ref:​raw:​2016sportstertransoilreports_by_shanneba.jpg?​direct&​100|}}((2016 Sportster primary/ transmission oil UOA by shanneba of the XLFORUM))|+|{{techtalk:​ref:​raw:​parrotheads_uoa.jpg?​direct&​100|}}((Courtesy of parrothead from the XLFORUM ​https://www.xlforum.net/​forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/​sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/​rubber-mount-sportster-motorcycle-talk-2004-2006/​186753-oil-analysis-of-high-mileage-2006-sportster?​t=1995942&​highlight=oil+analysis))|{{techtalk:​ref:​raw:​2016sportstertransoilreports_by_shanneba.jpg?​direct&​100|}}((2016 Sportster primary/ transmission oil UOA by shanneba of the XLFORUM))|
 |2006 Sportster engine oil \\ UOA at 200,000 miles|2016 Sportster primary/ trans \\ oil UOA at 15,000 miles| |2006 Sportster engine oil \\ UOA at 200,000 miles|2016 Sportster primary/ trans \\ oil UOA at 15,000 miles|
  
 ====== Oil Viscosity and Testing ====== ====== Oil Viscosity and Testing ======
 +\\
 ==== SAE Viscosity Grades For Engine Oils ====  ==== SAE Viscosity Grades For Engine Oils ==== 
 ( — 1 mPa-s = 1 cP; 1mm 2/s=1cSt) - All values, with the exception of the low-temperature cranking viscosity, are critical specifications as defined by ASTM D3244 ((https://​www.infineum.com/​media/​80723/​api-engine-oil-classifications.pdf)) ( — 1 mPa-s = 1 cP; 1mm 2/s=1cSt) - All values, with the exception of the low-temperature cranking viscosity, are critical specifications as defined by ASTM D3244 ((https://​www.infineum.com/​media/​80723/​api-engine-oil-classifications.pdf))
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 ===== Kinematic Viscosity of Oil ===== ===== Kinematic Viscosity of Oil =====
- 
   * Kinematic viscosity is a measure of the resistive flow of a fluid under the influence of gravity. This measurement is generally displayed in most oil manufacturers respective TDS and/or SDS information data. There does seem to be a bit of differences of the "​exact"​ results when comparing a brand'​s SDS and TDS data so it makes you want to not take the values for "​absolute"​. ​   * Kinematic viscosity is a measure of the resistive flow of a fluid under the influence of gravity. This measurement is generally displayed in most oil manufacturers respective TDS and/or SDS information data. There does seem to be a bit of differences of the "​exact"​ results when comparing a brand'​s SDS and TDS data so it makes you want to not take the values for "​absolute"​. ​
   * When two fluids of equal volume are placed in identical capillary viscometers and allowed to flow under the influence of gravity, a viscous fluid takes longer than a less viscous fluid to flow through the tube. ((http://​physics.info/​viscosity/​))   * When two fluids of equal volume are placed in identical capillary viscometers and allowed to flow under the influence of gravity, a viscous fluid takes longer than a less viscous fluid to flow through the tube. ((http://​physics.info/​viscosity/​))
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 ===== Oil Viscosity Index ===== ===== Oil Viscosity Index =====
-  
   * The viscosity index was developed by E. Dean and G. Davis in 1929. It is an empirically derived, unitless number. Based on the methodology,​ Pennsylvania crude (paraffinic) was set as a benchmark at one extreme, representing low viscosity changeability relative to temperature. At the other extreme was Texas Gulf crudes (naphthenic). If a lubricant was similar to the Pennsylvania crude, it was assigned a VI of 100. If it was similar to Texas Gulf crude, it was assigned a VI of 0. Halfway in between was a VI of 50, and so forth. The higher the VI, the more stable the viscosity across a range of temperatures (more desirable). The temperatures used to determine the VI are 40 degrees C to 100 degrees C.((Jim Fitch, a founder and CEO of Noria  Corporation,​http://​www.machinerylubrication.com/​Read/​28956/​lubricant-viscosity-index))   * The viscosity index was developed by E. Dean and G. Davis in 1929. It is an empirically derived, unitless number. Based on the methodology,​ Pennsylvania crude (paraffinic) was set as a benchmark at one extreme, representing low viscosity changeability relative to temperature. At the other extreme was Texas Gulf crudes (naphthenic). If a lubricant was similar to the Pennsylvania crude, it was assigned a VI of 100. If it was similar to Texas Gulf crude, it was assigned a VI of 0. Halfway in between was a VI of 50, and so forth. The higher the VI, the more stable the viscosity across a range of temperatures (more desirable). The temperatures used to determine the VI are 40 degrees C to 100 degrees C.((Jim Fitch, a founder and CEO of Noria  Corporation,​http://​www.machinerylubrication.com/​Read/​28956/​lubricant-viscosity-index))
   * For machines of constant load, constant speed and constant ambient temperatures,​ the ideal viscosity very often results in the lowest stabilized oil temperature. Oils of lower or higher viscosities (than the optimum viscosity) will typically increase the oil’s stabilized temperature due to either churning losses (too much viscosity) or mechanical friction (too little viscosity).((Jim Fitch, a founder and CEO of Noria Corporation,​http://​www.machinerylubrication.com/​Read/​28956/​lubricant-viscosity-index))   * For machines of constant load, constant speed and constant ambient temperatures,​ the ideal viscosity very often results in the lowest stabilized oil temperature. Oils of lower or higher viscosities (than the optimum viscosity) will typically increase the oil’s stabilized temperature due to either churning losses (too much viscosity) or mechanical friction (too little viscosity).((Jim Fitch, a founder and CEO of Noria Corporation,​http://​www.machinerylubrication.com/​Read/​28956/​lubricant-viscosity-index))
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 ===== Boiling Point/ Range ===== ===== Boiling Point/ Range =====
- 
   * An oil is a mixture of many different kinds of molecules, each with its own boiling point. ​   * An oil is a mixture of many different kinds of molecules, each with its own boiling point. ​
   * Therefore, an oil will boil over a range of temperatures (boiling range).   * Therefore, an oil will boil over a range of temperatures (boiling range).
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   ​   ​
 ===== Flash Point ===== ===== Flash Point =====
- 
   * The flash point of an oil is specified for safety reasons, but also because it indicates how volatile the oil is.   * The flash point of an oil is specified for safety reasons, but also because it indicates how volatile the oil is.
   * Light parts of the oil determine the flash point which is extremely sensitive to contaminants from lighter oils, such as gas oil or gasoline. ​   * Light parts of the oil determine the flash point which is extremely sensitive to contaminants from lighter oils, such as gas oil or gasoline. ​
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 ===== Flash Point VS Boiling Range ===== ===== Flash Point VS Boiling Range =====
- 
   * It is at the low temperature area of the boiling range that flash point is determined. A correlation exists between the 5% point in the boiling range and the flashpoint. ​   * It is at the low temperature area of the boiling range that flash point is determined. A correlation exists between the 5% point in the boiling range and the flashpoint. ​
   * The lighter the products, the lower the flashpoint. Thus, two oils with the same viscosity (50% point) may have different flash points depending on the shape of the distillation curve at low temperatures.((http://​www.engnetglobal.com/​documents/​pdfcatalog/​NYN001_200412073535_Base%20oil%20handbookENG.pdf))   * The lighter the products, the lower the flashpoint. Thus, two oils with the same viscosity (50% point) may have different flash points depending on the shape of the distillation curve at low temperatures.((http://​www.engnetglobal.com/​documents/​pdfcatalog/​NYN001_200412073535_Base%20oil%20handbookENG.pdf))
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 |SB|Not for use in gas-powered automobile engines built after 1963. Use in modern engines may cause unsatisfactory perf./ equipment harm|No Limits|| |SB|Not for use in gas-powered automobile engines built after 1963. Use in modern engines may cause unsatisfactory perf./ equipment harm|No Limits||
 |SA|Replaced in 1930. Use in modern engines may cause unsatisfactory perf./ equipment harm|No Limits|| |SA|Replaced in 1930. Use in modern engines may cause unsatisfactory perf./ equipment harm|No Limits||
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 ^DIESEL^^ ^DIESEL^^
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 ===== JASO Oil Specifications ===== ===== JASO Oil Specifications =====
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   * The JASO Engine Oil Standards Implementation Panel consists of six organizations;​ Petroleum Association of Japan (PAJ), Japan Automobile Manufacturers Association,​ Inc. (JAMA), Society of Automotive Engineers of Japan, Inc. (JSAE), Land Engine Manufacturers Association (LEMA), Japan Lubricating Oil Society (JALOS), and Japan Boating Industry Association (JBIA) as well as other concerned companies (lubricant additive manufacturers). ((http://​www.jalos.or.jp/​onfile/​jaso_e.htm))   * The JASO Engine Oil Standards Implementation Panel consists of six organizations;​ Petroleum Association of Japan (PAJ), Japan Automobile Manufacturers Association,​ Inc. (JAMA), Society of Automotive Engineers of Japan, Inc. (JSAE), Land Engine Manufacturers Association (LEMA), Japan Lubricating Oil Society (JALOS), and Japan Boating Industry Association (JBIA) as well as other concerned companies (lubricant additive manufacturers). ((http://​www.jalos.or.jp/​onfile/​jaso_e.htm))
   * Oil companies submit their testing data results to JASO and if approved, their oil data is listed with JASO. JASO assumes no liability for erroneous information submitted by the companies. ((http://​www.jalos.or.jp/​onfile/​pdf/​2T_EV0412.pdf))   * Oil companies submit their testing data results to JASO and if approved, their oil data is listed with JASO. JASO assumes no liability for erroneous information submitted by the companies. ((http://​www.jalos.or.jp/​onfile/​pdf/​2T_EV0412.pdf))
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 ===== SAE Oil Specifications ===== ===== SAE Oil Specifications =====
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   *  SAE uses numbers to indicate viscosity (flow-ability). Thin oils have low numbers and thick oil has high numbers. A "​W"​ after the number indicates the viscosity was tested at low temperature to simulate cold weather operation. Engine oils fall into the 5W30 to 20W50 range. Multigrade oils (example 10W50) are less viscous (10) at lower temperatures and more viscous at higher temperatures (50) which allows the engine to operate efficiently over a wide range of operating temps. ((Clymer Sportster RepairManual 1959-1985)) ​   *  SAE uses numbers to indicate viscosity (flow-ability). Thin oils have low numbers and thick oil has high numbers. A "​W"​ after the number indicates the viscosity was tested at low temperature to simulate cold weather operation. Engine oils fall into the 5W30 to 20W50 range. Multigrade oils (example 10W50) are less viscous (10) at lower temperatures and more viscous at higher temperatures (50) which allows the engine to operate efficiently over a wide range of operating temps. ((Clymer Sportster RepairManual 1959-1985)) ​
  
 ===== International Organization for Standardization (ISO) Certifications ===== ===== International Organization for Standardization (ISO) Certifications =====
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   * In 1946, delegates from 25 countries met at the Institute of Civil Engineers in London and decided to create a new international organization to facilitate the international coordination and unification of industrial standards. On 23 February 1947 the new organization,​ ISO, officially began operations.   * In 1946, delegates from 25 countries met at the Institute of Civil Engineers in London and decided to create a new international organization to facilitate the international coordination and unification of industrial standards. On 23 February 1947 the new organization,​ ISO, officially began operations.
   *  Since- International Organization for Standardization- would have different acronyms in different languages (IOS in English, OIN in French for Organisation internationale de normalisation),​ their founders decided to give it the short form ISO. ISO is derived from the Greek isos, meaning equal. Whatever the country, whatever the language, it's always ISO.   *  Since- International Organization for Standardization- would have different acronyms in different languages (IOS in English, OIN in French for Organisation internationale de normalisation),​ their founders decided to give it the short form ISO. ISO is derived from the Greek isos, meaning equal. Whatever the country, whatever the language, it's always ISO.
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   *  ACEA defines specifications for engine oils so called ACEA Oil Sequences. The sequences are usually updated every few years to include the latest developments in engine and lubricant technology. ACEA itself does not approve the oils, they set the standards and oil manufacturer'​s may make performance claims for their products if those satisfy the relevant requirements.   *  ACEA defines specifications for engine oils so called ACEA Oil Sequences. The sequences are usually updated every few years to include the latest developments in engine and lubricant technology. ACEA itself does not approve the oils, they set the standards and oil manufacturer'​s may make performance claims for their products if those satisfy the relevant requirements.
   * The first ACEA oil sequences were introduced in 1996 when they replaced the former CCMC specifications. Each version of the ACEA oils sequences has or had a life cycle:​((http://​www.oilspecifications.org/​acea.php))   * The first ACEA oil sequences were introduced in 1996 when they replaced the former CCMC specifications. Each version of the ACEA oils sequences has or had a life cycle:​((http://​www.oilspecifications.org/​acea.php))
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 ^Issue year^First allowable use^Mandatory for new claims^This claim may be marketed until..^ ^Issue year^First allowable use^Mandatory for new claims^This claim may be marketed until..^
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 ===== FZG (Gear Oil) Testing ​ ===== ===== FZG (Gear Oil) Testing ​ =====
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 Testing Methods for Gear Lubricants Testing Methods for Gear Lubricants
  
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 ====== Other Reading Material on Engine Oil ====== ====== Other Reading Material on Engine Oil ======
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   * Here are some links to some other reading material on the subject of oil.   * Here are some links to some other reading material on the subject of oil.