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techtalk:ref:susp02c [2021/12/24 00:32] ixl2relax created |
techtalk:ref:susp02c [2024/01/20 21:43] (current) hippysmack |
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| {{common:space100x5px.jpg?650|}}[[techtalk:ref:susp02|Back to 'Front Fork Info']] | {{common:space100x5px.jpg?650|}}[[techtalk:ref:susp02|Back to 'Front Fork Info']] | ||
| + | ===== Front Forks - Refinishing Aluminum Sliders ===== | ||
| - | \\ | + | This information comes from an XLForum thread: https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/203388-slider-repair?t=2080639\\ |
| + | Some editing done on the comments. Photos are by 'joe s'. | ||
| - | ===== 1994 XLH Front Forks Disassembled - Measurements w/Pictures ===== | + | **Comments by joe s - Describing his finishing process**\\ |
| + | If the pits aren't too too bad, you can sand them and re-clear. On my FXR project, I disassembled the forks, but I don't see why you can't do this on the bike with the wheel and fender removed. | ||
| - | The following information was collected when the stock 1994 Front Forks were disassembled to be cleaned\\ | + | This is what they looked like:\\ |
| - | All Photos are from IXL2Relax at the XLForum | + | {{:techtalk:ref:susp:forkrefinish01-joe_s.jpg?600|}} |
| - | Here's the Progressive Springs Upgrade thread by IXL2Relax at the XLForum: | + | I cleaned everything with acetone first, and that started removing the factory clear coat. Perfect, because it left the original finishes that I can match after repairing the scratch marks and oxidation spots. I dressed them with a dremel on slow speed. Letting the stone bounce at the very end, sort of reproduced the surface, but not well. |
| - | http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2006111 | + | |
| - | \\ | + | They look like they have a skin condition.\\ |
| + | {{:techtalk:ref:susp:forkrefinish02-joe_s.jpg?600|}} | ||
| + | Looking at the factory shiny areas, there are fine sanding marks, so first I tried 400 grit, and that removed the stains, but was too coarse. 600 grit was closer, but 1000 grit was just right. | ||
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| + | You can see what I mean by rough and smooth areas.\\ | ||
| + | {{:techtalk:ref:susp:forkrefinish03-joe_s.jpg?600|}} | ||
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| + | Make sure they are really clean again, wiping with acetone until the rag is clean. I use NAPA Tec Base clear in a rattle can, it holds up well and stayed clear on my 79 FXS for years, including the rocker covers:\\ | ||
| + | {{:techtalk:ref:susp:forkrefinish04-joe_s.jpg?600|}} | ||
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| + | Good luck, your mileage may vary. | ||
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| + | **Comments by SHAKY DAVE**\\ | ||
| + | Absolutely nice work. Since I do the paint and body work on restoration cars, step sanding is the way to go. I sand aluminum starting with 600 going up from there with 1000,1500,2000,3000 to 5000. Pretty shiny then, but I normally buff the parts and dont use any clear on anything. The buffed parts on my 2 ironheads are still great after 11 years. Some Mother's aluminum polish takes care of keeping parts lookin good, but only when i feel like doin it - hahaha. | ||
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| + | **Comments by brucstoudt**\\ | ||
| + | I had the same problem with my '03. It was caused by salt air corrosion from being in Florida. Most of the damage was in the front area in the windstream. I fixed mine on the bike by wet sanding them with 1500 wet or dry paper then polishing them. I have a brick of aluminum polishing compound that I load on my polishing buff. The sliders come from the factory with a clear coating on them that has to be sanded through to get down to the aluminum. I will not reclear them. | ||
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