Differences

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--- techtalk:ref:susp02c [2021/12/24 01:26]
ixl2relax
+++ techtalk:ref:susp02c [2024/01/20 21:43] (current)
hippysmack
@@ Line 5: / Line 5: @@
 ===== Front Forks - Refinishing Aluminum Sliders =====
-This information comes from an XLForum thread: http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2080639
+This information comes from an XLForum thread: https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/203388-slider-repair?t=2080639\\
-Some editing on the comments. Photos are by 'joe s'.
+Some editing done on the comments. Photos are by 'joe s'.
+**Comments by joe s - Describing his finishing process**\\
+If the pits aren't too too bad, you can sand them and re-clear. On my FXR project, I disassembled the forks, but I don't see why you can't do this on the bike with the wheel and fender removed.
+This is what they looked like:\\
-**Comments by joe s**\\
-If the pits aren't too too bad, you can sand them and re-clear. On my FXR project, I disassembled the forks, but I don't see why you can't do this on the bike with the wheel and fender removed. This is what they looked like:\\
 {{:techtalk:ref:susp:forkrefinish01-joe_s.jpg?600|}}
-I cleaned everything with acetone first, and that started removing the factory clear coat. Perfect, because it left the original finishes that I can match after repairing the scratch marks and oxidation spots.I dressed them with a dremel on slow speed. Letting the stone bounce at the very end sort of reproduced the surface, but not well. They look like they have a skin condition.\\
+I cleaned everything with acetone first, and that started removing the factory clear coat. Perfect, because it left the original finishes that I can match after repairing the scratch marks and oxidation spots. I dressed them with a dremel on slow speed. Letting the stone bounce at the very end, sort of reproduced the surface, but not well.
+They look like they have a skin condition.\\
 {{:techtalk:ref:susp:forkrefinish02-joe_s.jpg?600|}}
-Looking at the factory shiny areas, there are fine sanding marks, so first I tried 400 grit, and that removed the stains, but was too coarse. 600 grit was closer, but 1000 grit was just right. You can see what I mean by rough and smooth areas.\\
+Looking at the factory shiny areas, there are fine sanding marks, so first I tried 400 grit, and that removed the stains, but was too coarse. 600 grit was closer, but 1000 grit was just right.
+You can see what I mean by rough and smooth areas.\\
 {{:techtalk:ref:susp:forkrefinish03-joe_s.jpg?600|}}
@@ Line 24: / Line 31: @@
 **Comments by SHAKY DAVE**\\
-Absolutely nice work. Since I do the paint and body work on restoration cars, step sanding is the way to go. I sand aluminum starting with 600 going up from there with 1000,1500,2000,3000 to 5000. Pretty shiny then, but I normally buff the parts and dont use any clear on anything. On my 2 ironheads buffed parts they are still great after 11 years. Some Mother's aluminum polish takes care of keeping parts lookin good, but only when i feel like doin it, hahaha.
+Absolutely nice work. Since I do the paint and body work on restoration cars, step sanding is the way to go. I sand aluminum starting with 600 going up from there with 1000,1500,2000,3000 to 5000. Pretty shiny then, but I normally buff the parts and dont use any clear on anything. The buffed parts on my 2 ironheads are still great after 11 years. Some Mother's aluminum polish takes care of keeping parts lookin good, but only when i feel like doin it - hahaha.
 **Comments by brucstoudt**\\
-sungod - I had the same problem with my '03. It was caused by salt air corrosion from being in Florida. Most of the damage was in the front area in the windstream. I fixed mine on the bike by wet sanding them with 1500 wet or dry paper then polishing them. I have a brick of aluminum polishing compound that I load on my polishing buff. The sliders come from the factory with a clear coating on them that has to be sanded through to get down to the aluminum. I will not reclear them.
+I had the same problem with my '03. It was caused by salt air corrosion from being in Florida. Most of the damage was in the front area in the windstream. I fixed mine on the bike by wet sanding them with 1500 wet or dry paper then polishing them. I have a brick of aluminum polishing compound that I load on my polishing buff. The sliders come from the factory with a clear coating on them that has to be sanded through to get down to the aluminum. I will not reclear them.
 \\
 \\

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