Differences

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--- techtalk:ref:tools022 [2020/04/28 22:53]
hippysmack ↷ Page name changed from techtalk:ref:genmsr35 to techtalk:ref:tools022
+++ techtalk:ref:tools022 [2021/05/22 03:10]
hippysmack [Penetrating Oil]
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 [[:techtalk:menu|{{  :techtalk:gototechnicalmenu.jpg|}}]]
-====== REF: General-MSR 35 ======
+====== REF: Tools & Fasteners ======
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 ==== Penetrating Oil ====
-    * Chemical attacks are not instantaneous events; Pop would, when working a bolt on his Model A, often squirt the bolt once a day for two weeks, then give it a rap to try to loosen corrosion before walking it out conventionally. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. ((chuckspeed of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die))
+[[techtalk:ref:genmsr11|Click Here]] to see a list of penetrating oils in the Sportsterpedia. \\
-    * Even a good penetrating oil sometimes just needs time. First, follow the label on your choice of oil. A rule of thumb is a 24 hour soak, followed by a few taps with a hammer or rubber mallet to set up some vibration in the threads to distribute oil and friction. This procedure can be duplicated as often as you feel comfortable with and it depends entirely on your time frame allowed. It's not possible to nail down a set day(s) or hour(s) as every situation and climate is different.
+    * **Chemical attacks are not instantaneous events**; Pop would, when working a bolt on his Model A, often squirt the bolt once a day for two weeks, then give it a rap to try to loosen corrosion before walking it out conventionally. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. ((chuckspeed of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die))
-    * The chemical saturation starts with a good penetrating oil. There are lots of good products for loosening stuck bolts including but not limited to:  ((chuckspeed of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die))
-      * P'B Blaster
+    * **Even a good penetrating oil sometimes just needs time**. First, follow the label on your choice of oil. A rule of thumb is a 24 hour soak, followed by a few taps with a hammer or rubber mallet to set up some vibration in the threads to distribute oil and friction. This procedure can be duplicated as often as you feel comfortable with and it depends entirely on your time frame allowed. It's not possible to nail down a set day(s) or hour(s) as every situation and climate is different.
-      * Kroil
-      * Liquid Wrench
-      * Tap Magic works wonders for deep penetration
-      * WD-40 is not considered a good penetrating oil, but if the bolt can be turned just a pinch (left or right) and back then you can squirt this into the threads on every turn and it may help but your still better off using penetrating oil instead. ((hippysmack of the XLFORUM))
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   * A six-sided hex wrench will grip a rounded off nut better than a 12-point socket or box wrench sometimes. ((Hopper of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die))
   * Use the right size wrench or screwdriver bit. Sometime you can put a Crescent wrench on a square shank screwdriver for more leverage.  ((Hopper of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die))
-  * ALWAYS use good quality tools. A Snap On or Craftsman wrench will grip a bolt better than a cheap Chinese wrench. That is why professionals pay the extra money for good tools. Saves them money on repairing damage from cheap tools. ((Hopper of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die))
+  * ALWAYS use good quality tools. A Snap On or Craftsman wrench will grip a bolt better than a cheap Chinese wrench. \\ That is why professionals pay the extra money for good tools. Saves them money on repairing damage from cheap tools. ((Hopper of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die))
   * An air impact wrench is good for undoing stuff but never use it to tighten. It's too easy to over torque and strip the bolts.  ((Hopper of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die))
   * Do not use an air impact wrench on the crankshaft mainshaft nuts etc, it can throw the crank assembly out of true, so they say. ((Hopper of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die))
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   * File two flats on a rounded bolt head so you can get the next size smaller wrench on there. ((Hopper of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die))
   * A half inch breaker bar stuck into an 8 foot long piece of black pipe. It has never meet a nut or bolt it could not take off. I prefer this to the impact gun. ((joestuff of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die))
 === Phillips head screws: ===
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   * If you have a Phillips head that is camming out, put a little valve grinding compound on the tip of the screwdriver. It will give the screwdriver tip a lot of extra bite. ((Shadowdog500 of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die))
   * Quite often, when a bolt or screw won't back out, I'll reverse the impact and give it a go that way.  The next reverse impact usually pulls it out. It just wanted to be loosened by tightening  ((Larry Jaques  https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.crafts.metalworking/BFVDZjOSOGE))
 === Brake Bleeder Bolts: ===
+In a pinch and if the bleeder screw isn't leaking, you can try leaving it alone and bleeding at the banjo bolt instead. \\ [[techtalk:ref:wheels06#bleeder_screw_issues|Click here]] for Bleeder Screw Issues on the brake bleeding page in the Sportsterpedia. \\
-  * That tiny, tiny bleed nipple will shear off real easy. I use a six-sided small box end wrench on it. 12 point just slips to easy.
-    * Tap the nipple straight on a few times with a flat punch to jar it loose.
-    * If you have the caliper apart, heat the body with heat gun or propane torch to loosen it up.
-    * You can also buy a thread repair kit from JP etc that you drill and tap a larger metal fitting into the caliper and the nipple screws into that.  ((Hopper of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die))
-  * If you can get one on it, a deep well six point socket works real good. On small bolts and nipples like bleed nipples, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS open them by hitting the wrench with a small hammer or like tool. Metal to metal tapping, too - not a deadblow plastic mallet. You need that sharp impact to break loose the small bolt or fitting; us gorilla wrenchers can shear a fitting thru constant pressure right quick.
-    * You can keep a junk ratchet in the box for just such an occasion. Sure - you can get a little breaker bar - but on delicate, often tight space work, a chinese disposable ratchet comes in handy! ((chuckspeed of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die))
 === Brake hose fitting: ===
   * As to the brake hose going into the caliper, use only a proper brake hose wrench from the auto parts store. It is a six sided box end wrench with a slot in it so you can fit it over the metal tubing. Then jar the wrench to get the hose unscrewed. If you try to use an open end wrench on that pipe fitting, it will almost guaranteed just round off the flare nut hex.  ((Hopper of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die))
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   * Threads can also be cleaned with an old toothbrush and some solvent or gas or just simply sprayed down with your brand of brake cleaner.
+|  Left hand drill bit for broken bolt removal. ((photo by NYSportster of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=495251&page=2))  |
+|{{:techtalk:ref:tools:left_hand_drill_bit_by_nysportster.jpg?direct&300|}}|
 \\