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--- techtalk:ref:tools022 [2021/02/07 01:53]
hippysmack [Wrenching]
+++ techtalk:ref:tools022 [2021/05/22 03:10]
hippysmack [Penetrating Oil]
@@ Line 10: / Line 10: @@
 ==== Penetrating Oil ====
-    * Chemical attacks are not instantaneous events; Pop would, when working a bolt on his Model A, often squirt the bolt once a day for two weeks, then give it a rap to try to loosen corrosion before walking it out conventionally. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. ((chuckspeed of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die))
+[[techtalk:ref:genmsr11|Click Here]] to see a list of penetrating oils in the Sportsterpedia. \\
-    * Even a good penetrating oil sometimes just needs time. First, follow the label on your choice of oil. A rule of thumb is a 24 hour soak, followed by a few taps with a hammer or rubber mallet to set up some vibration in the threads to distribute oil and friction. This procedure can be duplicated as often as you feel comfortable with and it depends entirely on your time frame allowed. It's not possible to nail down a set day(s) or hour(s) as every situation and climate is different.
+    * **Chemical attacks are not instantaneous events**; Pop would, when working a bolt on his Model A, often squirt the bolt once a day for two weeks, then give it a rap to try to loosen corrosion before walking it out conventionally. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. ((chuckspeed of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die))
-    * The chemical saturation starts with a good penetrating oil. There are lots of good products for loosening stuck bolts including but not limited to:  ((chuckspeed of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die))
-      * P'B Blaster
+    * **Even a good penetrating oil sometimes just needs time**. First, follow the label on your choice of oil. A rule of thumb is a 24 hour soak, followed by a few taps with a hammer or rubber mallet to set up some vibration in the threads to distribute oil and friction. This procedure can be duplicated as often as you feel comfortable with and it depends entirely on your time frame allowed. It's not possible to nail down a set day(s) or hour(s) as every situation and climate is different.
-      * Kroil
-      * Liquid Wrench
-      * Tap Magic works wonders for deep penetration
-      * WD-40 is not considered a good penetrating oil, but if the bolt can be turned just a pinch (left or right) and back then you can squirt this into the threads on every turn and it may help but your still better off using penetrating oil instead. ((hippysmack of the XLFORUM))
@@ Line 58: / Line 53: @@
 === Brake Bleeder Bolts: ===
-**If it won't budge**:
+In a pinch and if the bleeder screw isn't leaking, you can try leaving it alone and bleeding at the banjo bolt instead. \\ [[techtalk:ref:wheels06#bleeder_screw_issues|Click here]] for Bleeder Screw Issues on the brake bleeding page in the Sportsterpedia. \\
-  * First and foremost, always use a 6 point wrench on a six point screw. A 12 point wrench just slips to easy and will round off the corners. \\ That tiny, tiny bleed nipple will shear off real easy.
-    * Tap the nipple straight on a few times with a flat punch to jar it loose.
-    * If you have the caliper apart, heat the body with heat gun or propane torch to loosen it up.
-    * If you can get a wrench on it, a deep well six point socket works real good. \\ On small bolts and nipples like bleed nipples, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS open them by hitting the wrench with a small hammer or like tool. \\ Metal to metal tapping, too - not a deadblow plastic mallet. You need that sharp impact to break loose the small bolt or fitting; us gorilla wrenchers can shear a fitting thru constant pressure right quick.
-    * You can keep a junk ratchet in the box for just such an occasion. Sure - you can get a little breaker bar. \\ But on delicate, often tight space work, a chinese disposable ratchet comes in handy! ((chuckspeed of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die))
-**If you break the top off the screw**: \\
-  * The easiest solution may be to buy a used caliper.
-  * You can try an Easy-Out thread extractor for the broken piece left in there. Use a good couple taps to start vibration and gently turn it out. \\ That may or may not work as Easy-Outs may break before you can turn the screw. Otherwise drill the hole a little bigger and try a bigger Easy-Out.
-  * You can buy a left handed drill bit and try and drill and back the screw out that way. \\
-  * You could also try pulling the caliper, drilling the screw center out with a (smaller than thread width) bit and peeling the sides out. \\ Just make sure to keep the bit straight so it don't go into the female threads in the caliper. Then the caliper needs to be taken apart to clean the swarf out.
-  * Some come easy, some take a few tries. If it's a steel screw completely seized by corrosion to an aluminum caliper, it's not coming out without the aluminum threads too.
-  * You can try and MIG weld a nut to it. Then back it out with the nut. The heat and then cooling help. The heat is localized and quick, it won't hurt the caliper. \\ That's part of why it works, the broke bolt gets hot, expands, then contracts against the cooler casting. (One might protect the rubber from weld splatter).
-  * You can buy a thread repair kit from J&P etc that you drill and tap a larger metal fitting into the caliper and the nipple screws into that.  ((Hopper of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die))
 === Brake hose fitting: ===

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