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techtalk:ref:tools101 [2018/05/21 07:48] ixl2relax [REF: Tools - Sub-001] |
techtalk:ref:tools101 [2022/03/23 21:10] hippysmack [Primary and Cam / Gearcase Cover] |
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| ====== REF: Tools - 101 ====== | ====== REF: Tools - 101 ====== | ||
| ====== Gearcase / Cam Cover Tools ====== | ====== Gearcase / Cam Cover Tools ====== | ||
| - | ====== Pinion Gear Nut ====== | ||
| - | **For turning the engine over using the pinion gear nut** \\ | ||
| - | | You can use a 15/16" wrench or deep well socket to turn the engine over using the pinion gear nut. ((photos by Hippysmack)) || | + | ====== Engine Cases ====== |
| - | |{{techtalk:ref:tools:93_and_up_pinion_gear_nut_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ref:tools:93_and_up_pinion_gear_nut_2_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}| | + | ===== Splitting Cases ===== |
| - | | 93-Present Pinion Gear Nut (7916A) ((photo by Hippysmack)) || | + | Usually, after all the bolts have been removed, the case halves come right apart.\\ |
| + | However, sometimes they will stick together and require light tapping with a rubber mallet. \\ | ||
| - | **To remove or install the pinion gear nut** \\ You'll need to lock the pinion gear from moving while turning the nut. | + | Caution should be taken around the lower run of the left case, on IH engines, as it is fragile (pretty thin at the 3 nut and bolt area). ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1297584&page=6)) \\ |
| - | * It's very important to hold the crank on the pinion side with an appropriate pinion locking tool whenever you take the pinion nut off or put it on.If you hold the crank still from the primary side (or by putting the bike in gear and holding the brake), the twisting torque applied to the pinion nut gets transmitted through the crank, from one side to the other. The crank pin is not designed to resist much twisting force. You'll risk scissoring the crankshaft (knocking the crank out of true), which requires a full tear-down to fix. ((Hammer Performance http://www.hammerperf.com/xlvalvetrain.shtml#grindlock)) So this is one of those situations where it's best to use the proper tool. ((aswracing of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2002257&highlight=pinion+locking+tool)) | + | |
| - | | The Grindlock Pinion Shaft Locking Tool engages for the full depth of the pinion gear for max. strength. ((photos by Hippysmack)) \\ Due to a change in the pinion gear in 2000, there are 2 different versions of this tool: \\ 1. (91-99) year models & 2. (2000 to present) year models ((Hammer Performance http://www.hammerperf.com/xlvalvetrain.shtml#grindlock)) || | + | If the cases are still stubborn to remove; \\ |
| - | |{{techtalk:ref:tools:grindlock_tool_2_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ref:tools:grindlock_tool_by_aswracing.jpg?direct&300|}}| | + | Light pressure applied in the transmission area followed by tapping the right case at the generator mount should work. \\ (not at the far end of generator mount but nearest the crankshaft as possible) ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1297584&page=6)) \\ |
| - | | Grindlock Tool \\ (designed by XLFORUM member, "Grind"). ((photo (L) by Hippysmack)) ((photo (R) by aswracing of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1920827&highlight=pinion+gear+locking+tool)) || | + | |
| - | ====== Cam / Gearcase Cover Removal ====== | + | This tool is will put 'some' pressure from within to help separate the case halves while tapping the case halves. \\ |
| - | **Alternatives** \\ | + | The tool below is basically an ironhead clutch spring compression tool (homemade) without the long standoffs. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1297584&page=6)) \\ |
| + | |||
| + | * Bolt it to primary gasket surface. | ||
| + | * Place a piece of wood inside the transmission compartment between the tool's threaded rod and the right case. | ||
| + | * The tool screws in against the wood and the wood puts outward pressure on the right case half. | ||
| + | |||
| + | |{{:techtalk:ref:tools:tool_for_splitting_cases_1_by_dirtycory.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:tools:tool_for_splitting_cases_2_by_dirtycory.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:tools:tool_for_splitting_cases_3_by_dirtycory.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| + | ^ Homemade Tool for Splitting Cases ((photos by DirtyCory of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1297584&page=6)) ^^^ | ||
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| + | |||
| + | ====== Primary and Cam / Gearcase Cover ====== | ||
| + | Early primary and cam covers had flat head, phillips and posidrive heads. \\ | ||
| + | It's difficult to get them tight enough to keep from leaking and easy to get them too, causing leaks, case cracks or broken screws. \\ | ||
| + | This prompts some to change the screws out to modern hex (allen) head socket screws. \\ | ||
| + | Even allen head screws won't take a lot of over-torque without distorting the drive slots in the head though. \\ | ||
| + | For the most even tightening of any of these screws, you can use a torque wrench with the correct bits. \\ | ||
| + | |||
| + | You can find hex bits at hardware / tool stores that are either made to socket wrench adapters or made to insert into them. \\ | ||
| + | Then simply attach the adapter to a torque wrench and torque away. \\ | ||
| + | With the cover screws only being spec'd at 80-110 in/lbs, an in/lb beam torque wrench will give more consistent results than an in/lb clicker wrench. \\ | ||
| + | The pic below shows a 0-80 in/lb torque wrench with adapters for a flat head screw. Just use the correct hex bit needed. \\ | ||
| + | |||
| + | {{:techtalk:ref:tools:AAAtorque_wrench_with_hex_bit_adapters_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\ | ||
| + | ===== Primary Cover ===== | ||
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| + | ===== Cam / Gearcase Cover ===== | ||
| You can use an old points plate with a 1/2"X13 nut welded in the center to ease the cover off. Mount the plate inside the cover as you would normally and insert a 1/2"X13x3" headless bolt in the center. Turn it in until the cover comes loose. This way the #2 cam stays in place so they don't all fall out when you remove the cover. | You can use an old points plate with a 1/2"X13 nut welded in the center to ease the cover off. Mount the plate inside the cover as you would normally and insert a 1/2"X13x3" headless bolt in the center. Turn it in until the cover comes loose. This way the #2 cam stays in place so they don't all fall out when you remove the cover. | ||
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| |{{techtalk:ref:tools:cam_cover_puller_by_dobermandave.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |{{techtalk:ref:tools:cam_cover_puller_by_dobermandave.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| - | | Cam Cover Removal Tool ((photo by dobermandave of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=395586&page=5)) | | + | ^ Cam Cover Removal Tool ((photo by dobermandave of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=395586&page=5)) ^ |
