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 ====== REF: Tools - 123 ======
-====== Torque Wrenches ======
+====== Torque Wrenches and Attachments ======
+====== Selecting the Right Torque Wrench ======
+See also in the Sportsterpedia:
+  * [[techtalk:ref:tools025#torque_wrench_care_and_usage_related_charts_and_information|Torque Wrench Care and Usage, Related Charts and Information]]
+  * [[techtalk:ref:tools025#torque_wrench_calibration|Torque Wrench Calibration]]
+  * First criteria is to find a torque wrench that is calibrated for the torque value you'll be needing, no brainer. \\ Check the torque specs for what you'll be working on and buy a wrench that works in that range.
+  * Torque range and accuracy to cover all fasteners on a Sportster: It's safe to say you'll need at least three torque wrenches minimal. \\ 1/4" drive for inch pound wrench for small bolts. \\ 3/8" drive foot/pound for general bolts. \\ 1/2" drive foot/pound wrench for larger torque applications. \\ 3/4" drive foot/pound wrench is very help on the sprocket shaft.
-  * **Any torque wrench should be regarded as a precision instrument**. You are 'trusting' that this tool will work properly whether you are tightening low torque cover bolts or a high torque engine sprocket nut. Do not leave this laying around on the floor or chunked in a tool box unprotected. This __will__ result in it not working properly when you need it to.
+Most torque wrenches that measure in ft/lbs don't go down low enough for small fasteners like primary/cam cover bolts etc. ((Folkie of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-motor-engine/sportster-motorcycle-engine-conversions/20633-low-inch-pound-torque-wrench?t=34140)) \\
-    * If it comes with a case when you buy it, keep it in the case when your not using it.
+And most torque wrenches aren't accurate at the very bottom of their range. \\
-    * If it didn't come with a case, make or buy one.
+The accuracy increases as you get up past from 20% or so of the scale on the wrench. \\
-    * If using the clicker type wrench, always reduce the dial to a low setting when not in use as detailed in the instructions that came with it.
+It's not so much a matter of getting a torque wrench that measures in inch lbs for small fasteners. \\
-    * If using the beam type wrench, always check and 'zero' the dial if needed before each use.
+But rather getting one that measures as low as you need. Most, if not all, that go that low are going to be calibrated in inch lbs. \\
+You do not just have to have a click type torque wrench. There are beam type torque wrenches out there as well. \\
-  * **While applying torque**, always use slow even motions. Applying torque too fast leads to fooling the torque wrench (and / or your eyes) before torque is actually reached. Of course, this may not be as big of an issue on cover bolts as it would be on head bolts. Establish a pattern to follow every time to condition yourself not to make a mistake when it's counted.
+====== Types of Torque Wrenches ======
-  * The clicker type torque wrench can click too fast or you can end with a temporary visual mistake with a beam wrench ((hippysmack from the XLFORUM  http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1959533)) ((Article by Oldrump1 from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1959533))
-  * The 1/4" clicker will go way beyond torque when used too fast. By the time you hear the click, your still turning which could result in damaged bolts, bolt heads and even cracking the piece your working on.
-===== Beam Type Torque Wrenches =====
+===== Dial Type Wrench =====
+The dial torque wrench is designed for quick calibration. ((https://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/skills-and-know-how/tools/torque-wrenches)) \\
+To use the wrench, set the inside dial to zero and the outside dial to the desired torque value. \\
+The turn the wrench until the two dials line up. \\
-|  1/4" Drive - Beam Torque Wrench ((photo by Hippysmack))\\ Range: 0-80 in/lbs  |  1/2" Drive - Beam Torque Wrench ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\ Range: 0-150 ft/lbs  |
+|  CDI (Snap-On) dial torque wrench. ((photo by wachuko of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/efi-sportster-motorcycle-talk-2007-and-up/157717-my-2013-hd-forty-eight-build?t=1688133)) ((https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/efi-sportster-motorcycle-talk-2007-and-up/157717-my-2013-hd-forty-eight-build/page5?postcount=61#post3772906)) \\ 0-250 in/lbs  ||
-|{{techtalk:ref:tools:in-lb_beam_-_torque_wrench_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ref:tools:ft-lb_beam_torque_wrench_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|
+|{{:techtalk:ref:tools:dial_type_torque_wrench_by_wachuko.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:tools:dial_torque_wrench_by_wachuko.png?direct&200|}}|
+===== Clicker Type Wrench =====
+  * As its name suggests, the clicking torque wrench clicks when the desired torque is reached. \\ Before turning the wrench, you set the handle to a specific torque. \\ When a clicker wrench is pulled to the point of the torque setting, the lever inside the wrench rolls over a cam and hits the inside of the wrench handle wall. \\ This effect makes the “click” sound, and tells the operator that they have reached the desired torque value.
+  * The typical click-type torque wrench comes with a manual adjustable setting on the handle and typically have a ratchet head just like a socket wrench.
+  * Some clickers operate in the normal right hand turn position only, others operate both in forward or reverse. \\ A good thing to check before you buy if you left hand threads to tighten (like a clutch sprocket nut)
+  * It allows the user to be more nimble in the process and to wait to hear it 'click' when the set torque value is achieved. \\ There are no graduations so you can see when you are at the correct torque level.
+  * It gives you piece of mind after hearing the click that you did it right. \\ However, it can also deceive you if the calibration is off, if the value you set on the wrench is wrong or if the spring has been damaged or compromised. \\
+  * **The 1/4" clicker type torque wrenches are touch and go as far as accuracy.**
+    * The spring tension is too slight to be accurate every time. \\ They don't work well when used upside down. \\ The click is inaudible or a very light sounding on the lower end of the scale (where you need it most). \\ They are not consistent to click every time before you strip a head or break a bolt. \\
+  * **The 3/8" torque wrenches are not as accurate below 30-40 or so ft/lbs**.
+    * The lower end of their scale is not as accurate as the upper end.
+  * **It's also important to make sure the clicker wrench is set to the correct torque**.
+    * The lines are small on the handle and you have to be sure you line them up on the right numbered line. \\ Turn the dial all the way down and count the lines as you turn the dial up to the value you're trying to set. \\ If you change the value, you should also turn the dial down past the lowest graduation and turn it back to the value you want next. \\ That relaxes the spring to let it charge up again. If you turn too far trying to set the value, don't turn back to a lower value. \\ Relax the spring all the way out and start over. \\ The dial should always be turned down around the lowest value before putting it away. \\ If you leave the spring charged, it will stay that way when you next use it. \\ At that point, the value you set next will be wrong.
+  * **With these concerns in mind**, a lot of fastener torque values fall in the gray area while using clicker type wrenches. \\ (between where the 1/4" clicker and the 3/8" clicker will either fail to work or be too inconsistent to work) \\ While tightening any fastener, if it don't 'feel' right, it probably isn't. \\ Whichever type torque wrench you have or use, you must trust it. If you don't trust it, don't use it. \\
-===== Attachments / Adapters =====
+{{:techtalk:ref:tools:clicker_type_torque_wrenches_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\
-===== Drive Adapters =====
+===== Beam Type Wrench =====
+  * Beam style torque wrenches contain a floating handle, with allows the handle to pivot as you turn the wrench.
+  * The bar bends at a controlled rate with added pressure. \\ The point moves along a graduated gauge to indicate the amount of torque applied. \\ When the gauge reaches the required torque, you stop turning the wrench.
+  * There are no more moving parts than the beam itself.
+  * Your eyes alone tell you when you have reached the correct torque value.
+  * No waiting for a click that may or may not come from a clicker type wrench.
+Beam wrenches come in a variety of calibrations. Check the specs before purchasing. \\
+|  1/4" Drive - Beam Torque Wrench ((photo by Hippysmack))\\ Range: 0-80 in/lbs  |  1/4" Drive - Beam Torque Wrench ((photo by rocketmangb of the XLFORUM)) \\ 0-120 in/lbs  |
+|{{techtalk:ref:tools:in-lb_beam_-_torque_wrench_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:tools:beam_torque_wrench_2_by_rocketmangb.jpg?direct&300|}}|
+|  1/2" Drive - Beam Torque Wrench ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\ Range: 0-150 ft/lbs  |
+|{{techtalk:ref:tools:ft-lb_beam_torque_wrench_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|
+|  3/4" Drive - Beam Torque Wrench ((photos by dezzertrat of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/173328-77-xlt-teardown-and-rebuild/page2?t=1860581&page=2)) \\ Range: 0-300 ft/lbs  ||
+|{{:techtalk:ref:tools:0-300_ft-lb_beam_torque_wrench_1_by_dezzertrat.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:tools:0-300_ft-lb_beam_torque_wrench_2_by_dezzertrat.jpg?direct&300|}}|
+===== Digital (electronic) Type Wrench =====
+  * An electronic torque wrench displays a torque value on a digital screen. ((https://www.hextechnology.com/articles/clicker-wrench-guide/)) \\
+  * Electronic (indicating) torque wrenches, have a strain gauge attached to the torsion rod.
+  * It sends a signal to the transducer and is then converted to a torque value.
+===== Torque Screwdrivers =====
+  * For very small torques, it is common to use a torque screwdriver rather than a torque wrench.
+====== What's the Best Type Torque Wrench to Use on a Sportster? ======
+That's a loaded question. The best answer is whichever one works. \\
+  * Beam, Dial or even Digital torque wrenches are more consistent in their designed use than Clicker type torque wrenches.
+  * Reason being most people equate the 'click' with a finished job.
+    * Clicker wrenches are notorious for varying degrees of the clicking sound. \\ They do not click loud on the lower end of their scale or won't click at all. \\ You can feel the tumbler hit with your hand (slight knock) however the 'knock' is not as hard at low scale torque either.
+    * See 'using feel' and practice it while using any wrench to turn a nut / bolt and that'll help keep you from breaking them.
+    * Clickers have been and continue to be used in all type applications with great results. \\ But as with any wrench, the user is responsible for making sure it's working properly and knowing how to use it.
+    * However, clickers have been responsible for a lot of broken / stripped bolts, nuts and parts due to user error.
+      * Not re-calibrating = User error
+      * Waiting to hear the click and you'll keep pulling forever until it does = User error. \\ Expect the click but also keep it in your mind that it may not click.
+      * Using it to remove bolts (as a breaker bar) = Misuse = User error. \\ The list goes on.
+  * Frequent calibration tests will also help you gain confidence in the wrench you choose and will tell you when it's not good to use it.
+====== Attachments / Adapters ======
+===== Drive Adapters =====
   * Torque wrenches come with a variety of drive point sizes. Of course, so do sockets. Unless you have a full shop of tools, it can be cost effective to use adapters to give you the flexibility in using the same sockets with different drive wrenches.
   * It's also important at times to be able to get to certain spots with smaller O.D. wrenches with the help from adapters as a (1/4" drive) 1/2" socket will probably be a smaller outside diameter than 3/8" or 1/2" drive in the same bolt size.
@@ Line 32: / Line 93: @@
   * But, true tool nuts will want to have them all and still need more.
   * You can also 2 adapters back to back to go from 1/2" to 3/8" and then from 3/8" to a 1/4" drive socket. There are other combinations as well.
   * If you plan on using a torque wrench, below are some basic size adapters that you'll probably want on hand. So, go ahead and buy them just to have them. You'll appreciate them all eventually.... and probably want more too.
+  * The use of drive adapters does not change the torque value on the fastener.
 When buying a torque wrench, these are some suggested adapters to have on hand or buy with it:
@@ Line 41: / Line 103: @@
   * **A 3/4" drive torque wrench** is usually only used in high torque applications and you should only need a 1/2" drive adapter in it's use.
+{{:techtalk:ref:tools:socket_adapters_1_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:techtalk:ref:tools:socket_adapters_2_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) \\
 ===== Socket Extensions =====
-===== Swivels (or universal joint) =====
-A swivel (or universal joint) is a great little tool for getting into areas where a straight run at a nut / bolt is hindered by obstacles near it (whether by the frame, wheels etc.).
-{{techtalk:ref:tools:swivels_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack))
+===== Drive End Extensions (horizontal with the wrench) ======
-  * **But, for the use with a torque wrench, a swivel can be detrimental to achieving even torque**. Whether that is a concern to you or your project, you'll have to make that decision. This is just an informative on the subject.
+  * These are usually considered methods to extend the length of the wrench (longways from the drive end). \\ It allows you to get into confined spaces that the wrench head (or socket) is too big or awkward for.
-  * With the entire purpose of using a torque wrench being to evenly distribute clamping force throughout the clamped piece and the purpose of a swivel is to allow you get to angled areas of your work piece, these two tools seem to cancel each other (in theory).
+  * If you use it longways (straight out from the handle, you'll need to re-calculate the torque setting on the wrench. \\ Extending the drive end of the wrench will add extra leverage (torque) on the nut / bolt.
-  * How much the swivel will change the actual torque on a fastener depends entirely on the angle at which it is used, if the swivel is near the wrench or near the bolt and etc. Any angle different than 90° from the wrench will shorten the distance from the bolt to the wrench. **This shorter distance will decrease the amount of actual torque applied the bolt**.
+  * If you use it at a 90° angle from the drive end, you will not need to recalculate the torque setting.
-  * You wouldn't think that the length of a socket extension between the swivel and the torque wrench would affect actual torque. But the truth is that the longer the extension you use, the more angle you can put on the swivel which does change actual torque at the fastener.
+  * Torque is measured at the socket axis. \\ It does not depend on the length of the wrench handle. That only affects the amount of pressure you have to exert to achieve a particular torque.
-  * A swivel adapter will transmit different amounts of torque and rotation depending on where the two pins are relative to the angle. You can see this for yourself by sticking two extensions into the adapter, bending it about 70 degrees, and slowly rotating the two extensions. With a small angle the error is not too large but as the angle increases the errors increase. ((mahansm from Bob is the Oil Guy Forum https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1906177))
+  * The extension is measured from center axis ((The real Leigh of Practical Machinist.com http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/torque-wrench-extention-question-163642/)) to the drive (shaft) axis of the torque wrench.
-  *
+  * The calculation is the same for all types of torque wrenches (whether clicker or beam type, etc). \\ The torque wrench scale tells you how hard you are pulling at the handle. \\ The formula tells you how much torque is actually applied on the fastener. ((Mud of Practical Machinist.com http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/torque-wrench-extention-question-163642/))
-  * **With these conditions in mind, swivels have been used with torque wrenches for a very long time**. Of course, results will vary and some will say the amount of change in actual torque value at the fastener will be negligible. This is ultimately left up to the end user to decide what is best for them.
+  * Or you can [[techtalk:ref:tools025#drive_extensions_horizontal_to_the_wrench|click here for more information on calculating the correct torque]] in the Sportsterpedia.
-|{{techtalk:ref:tools:swivel_and_extension_on_a_torque_wrench_2_by_hopper.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ref:tools:swivel_and_extension_on_a_torque_wrench_1_by_hopper.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ref:tools:swivel_and_extension_on_a_torque_wrench_4_by_hopper.jpg?direct&300|}}|
-|  Typical application for tightening rocker bolts on an IH engine 'in frame' ((photos by Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=395586&page=2))  ||This is the toughest one to do, \\ the front right stud on the rear cylinder. ((photo by Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=395586&page=2))|
-===== Torque Wrench Extensions (horizontal with the wrench) =====
-  * These are usually considered methods to extend the length of the wrench (in a linear plane) from the drive center to get into confined spaces that the wrench head (or socket) is too big or awkward for. However, for whatever or how you are extending the end of the torque wrench, you'll need to re-calculate the torque setting on the wrench. Extending the end of the wrench (whether with a crows foot, dog bone or other) will add extra leverage (torque) on the nut / bolt so you'll have to lower the setting on the wrench to compensate.
-  * Torque is measured at the socket axis. It does not depend on the length of the wrench handle. That only affects the amount of pressure you have to exert to achieve a particular torque.
-  * The extension is measured from center axis ((The real Leigh of Practical Machinist.com http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/torque-wrench-extention-question-163642/)) to the drive (shaft) axis of the torque wrench.
-  * The calculation is the same for all types of torque wrenches (whether clicker or beam type). The torque wrench tells you how hard you are pulling at the handle when you back out the ft/lbs, the formula tells you how much torque is on the fastener when you make the wrench show that many ft/lbs. ((Mud of Practical Machinist.com http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/torque-wrench-extention-question-163642/))
-  * **You can search online calculators** to find the value to set your torque wrench to achieve actual torque at the fastener.
-  * **Or, this formula ((https://www.norbar.com/en-gb/Home/Torque-Wrench-Extension-Calculator)) will allow you to achieve (actual) torque on your fastener**. M1 = M2 x L1 / L2 \\ Where:
-    * M1 is the torque setting of the wrench
-    * M2 is the actual torque applied to the nut
-    * L1 is the normal length of the wrench (square drive shank center point to pull handle center point).
-    * L2 is the extended length of the wrench (square drive shank center point on wrench to center point of bolt / nut).
 ----
 \\
+|  This homemade extension is nice. You will need to recalculate torque if used this way.  |||
 |{{techtalk:ref:tools:torque_wrench_extension_1_by_hopper.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ref:tools:torque_wrench_extension_2_by_hopper.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ref:tools:torque_wrench_extension_3_by_hopper.jpg?direct&300|}}|
-^  Homemade Wrench Extension for in-frame applications ((photos by Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=395586&page=2))  ^^^
+^  Homemade Wrench Extension for in-frame applications ((photos by Hopper of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/63858-special-tools/page2?t=395586&page=2))  ^^^
-|1/2 torque wrench (L) inside a pull handle wrench (minus the handle). 3/4" drive torque wrench (R) with 1/2" adapter and a socket to fit the \\ square shank of the 1/2" wrench. You can torque to about 140 foot pounds with this contraption but you have to keep straight alignment with the \\ 2 wrenches or actual torque on the nut will change. This is Not a proper tool setup but it will work with lower torque values. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=395586&page=2))||
+|This setup also extends the drive end of the wrench and you'll have to calculate for the correct torque. \\ 1/2 torque wrench (L) inside a pull handle wrench (minus the handle). 3/4" drive torque wrench (R) with 1/2" adapter and a socket to fit the \\ square shank of the 1/2" wrench. You can torque to about 140 foot pounds with this contraption but you have to keep straight alignment with the \\ 2 wrenches or actual torque on the nut will change. This is Not a proper tool setup but it will work with lower torque values. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/63858-special-tools/page2?t=395586&page=2))||
-|{{techtalk:ref:tools:torque-wrench-lever_1_by_hopper.jpg?direct&400|}} ((photos by Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=395586&page=2))|{{techtalk:ref:tools:torque-wrench-lever_2_by_hopper.jpg?direct&400|}}  |
+|{{techtalk:ref:tools:torque-wrench-lever_1_by_hopper.jpg?direct&400|}} ((photos by Hopper of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/63858-special-tools/page2?t=395586&page=2))|{{techtalk:ref:tools:torque-wrench-lever_2_by_hopper.jpg?direct&400|}}  |
-^This application is used to adapt a 1/2" drive socket for use with a 3/4" drive torque wrench. Really! ((photos by Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=395586&page=2))^^
+^  This application is used to adapt a 1/2" drive socket for use with a 3/4" drive torque wrench. Really! ((photos by Hopper of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/63858-special-tools/page2?t=395586&page=2))  ^^
-===== Usage / Applying Torque=====
+|  Here is another way to make a drive end extension. This also needs to be calculated before using.  |||
+|{{:techtalk:ref:tools:dial_type_torque_wrench_and_extension_1_by_the_doctor71.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:tools:dial_type_torque_wrench_and_extension_2_by_the_doctor71.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:tools:dial_type_torque_wrench_and_extension_3_by_the_doctor71.jpg?direct&300|}}|
+^  Dial type torque wrench with box end wrench extension. ((photo by The Doctor71 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/197656-cylinder-base-nut-question?t=2074329))  |||
-Proper torque procedures were used to initially build your bike. Skipping any of the advice below should be done at your own risk. Many engine tear-downs are the result of too much torque (or hunkering down) on a nut or bolt. Don't let it be you.
+===== Swivels (or universal joint) =====
+A swivel (or universal joint) is a great little tool for getting into areas where a straight run at a nut / bolt is hindered by obstacles near it (whether by the frame, wheels etc.).
+However, a swivel used at an angle will lower the applied torque slightly. \\
+But without using it at angle, there is no point to use a swivel. \\
+See more here on [[techtalk:ref:tools025#swivel_or_universal_joint_off_center_by_default|using a swivel on a torque wrench]] in the Sportsterpedia. \\
-  * **Start all of the fasteners in a component before you tighten any of them**...not even hand tight. Any misalignment of the part can side load the last fastener enough to prevent it starting or promote cross threading. ((Jollly Rogers from the XLFORUM  http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1959533))
+{{techtalk:ref:tools:swivels_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack))
-  * **By hand, all dry bolts should run in rather easily**. If not, there may be trash/ debris caught up in the threading (which can alter you reaching proper torque values). Turn all bolts in sequence by hand until snugged.
-  * **If you're using thread dressing** (oil, loctite / anti seize, etc.), these will induce drag on the bolt(s). You can use a socket, without the wrench, to turn the bolts to snug by hand. You will also need to reduce the final torque on your fasteners since thread dressings will add pre-load to the threads. This pre-load is added on top of your final torque. You can use the [[techtalk:ref:tools123#wet_torque_value_chart_for_lubed_threads|wet charts]] below as a guide to decide how to adjust your final torque. This will vary on how much and what type dressing is used on the threads as well as proper use of the torque wrench.
-  * **Align each bolt** chamfer with it's corresponding threaded hole and counter rotate the fastener to the tightening direction a few degrees until you feel the threads "jump", that indicates the threads are aligned to start in sync.
-  * **Tighten (to snug) all of the bolts the same** way around your piece in a cross pattern to ensure evenness throughout.
-  * **Find the torque specs for your application** and divide that number by three.
-  * **You now have three different torque values**: Unless instructed otherwise by the FSM, start your cross pattern in the center and then move towards the left and then towards the right.
-    * **First number** (lowest number) w / cross pattern over the entire number of fasteners on the piece.
-    * **Second number** repeat the same cross pattern starting with the same bolt you began with on the first pass (all bolts).
-    * **Final pass** (target torque value) repeat the same cross pattern starting with the same bolt you began with on the first pass (all bolts).
-  * **Lastly**, go back around with the final torque to make sure everything is even. At this point, your mainly insuring that you didn't miss a bolt when making the rounds. It's better to know now rather when your on the road.
+===== Crows Foot =====
+A crows foot is another tool to help you get into tight places the wrench head don't want to go. \\
+It's very useful IF it is built right and if you don't slip off the nut / bolt head while using it. \\
-===== A Word on Torque and Re-using Damaged Threads =====
+Cheap crows feet made of shiny chrome and costing less than pack of gum 'sometimes' is wider than it should be (I.D.) \\
+A 3/8" crows foot should be s good slip fit over the bolt head. \\
-  * There are times when threads are known to be warped / damaged but will be used anyway for different reasons. It is a good idea to reduce the torque used on fasteners in this instance in an effort to save the threads until a proper repair can be made. Thread dressings (anti-seize, Loctite etc.) may help to keep the fastener from walking out due to vibration.
+Some are made with more tolerance and be more loose around the nut or made with softer metal. \\
-  * Don't make the mistake of over-tightening ((Dr Dick)) just to say you are at factory torque spec. You'll have to use your own judgment for how tight is too tight. Sometimes (snug up to “firm plus a little more”) ((IronMick)) goes a long way.
+These can warp / break or strip the bolt corners especially when used for high torque applications. \\
-====== General Torque Specs ======
-  * Torque specs are usually given in a range (60-70 ft / lbs for example). The fastener should be torqued to the higher figure initially. Then on future torque 'checks', use the lower figure. This allows you to tell if the fastener has maintained needed torque without 'breaking' the bond which keeps it from backing off. ((Wizwill of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=27701&highlight=torque+wrench&page=13))
-  * In lieu of having torque specs at hand, below are general torque specs for different fasteners. However, nothing takes place of manufacturer torque specs for your specific applications. The torque numbers reflect pressures the bolts can take which doesn't take into account the amount of clamp force for the piece(s) you are clamping (or an aluminum engine). So, it's hard to trust the charts that give a torque values for bolts of a certain size, and then do not specify if the bolt is going into steel or aluminum. With steel bolts going into aluminum (engines), 'ya gotta be careful. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2048954&highlight=torque+wrench&page=2))
-  * Good engineering books, covering fasteners, will describe the situation in full (bolt diameter, thread pitch, bolt coatings, lubrication used etc.). A lot more information than most of us ever use. Also, in the back of some motorcycle manuals you sometimes will find charts listing common bolts and torque settings. Best to take them with a grain of salt, however. ((Ferrous Head of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2048954&highlight=torque+wrench&page=2))
-  * When using oiled fasteners, you should take into account the added pre-load from the oil before applying advertised torque to avoid shearing off the bolt head or cracking/ breaking the piece your working on. You can use the Wet Chart below to calculate a torque value with the added pre-load.
-===== Dry Torque Specs ft/lb =====
-  * Convert ft/lb to N*m by multiplying by 1.3558 ((Clymer 2004-2013 HD Sportster Repair Manual))
-  * Fastener strength of SAE bolts can be determined by the bolt head grade markings. Unmarked bolt heads are usually mild steel. More grade markings indicate higher strength fasteners. For instance, grade 5 may have three hash marks from the center out to the edge, grade 7 may have five hash marks and grade 8 should have 6 hash marks.((Clymer 2004-2013 HD Sportster Repair Manual))
-  * These are only generalized specs that do not take into account the difference in steel and aluminum threading. See your FSM or instruction manual for specific torque values per application.
-^Size/Grade^1/4"^5/16"^3/8"^7/16"^1/2"^9/16"^5/8"^3/4"^7/8"^1"^
-|SAE 2|6|12|20|32|47|69|96|155|206|310((Clymer 2004-2013 HD Sportster Repair Manual))|
-|SAE 5|10|19|33|54|78|114|154|257|382|587((Clymer 2004-2013 HD Sportster Repair Manual))|
-|SAE 7|13|25|44|71|110|154|215|360|570|840((Clymer 2004-2013 HD Sportster Repair Manual))|
-|SAE 8|14|29|47|78|119|169|230|380|600|700((Clymer 2004-2013 HD Sportster Repair Manual))|
-===== Wet Torque Value Chart for Lubed Threads =====
-If bolt threads are lubricated with light oil or anti-seize compound, the torque required to achieve the proper bolt tension is reduced. Below are charts with the proper "wet" torque values for type of bolt used: All charts property of and used by permission from Allied Systems Company.
-{{techtalk:ref:tools:wet_torque_chart_page_1.jpg?400|}}
-{{techtalk:ref:tools:wet_torque_chart_page_2.jpg?400|}}
-{{techtalk:ref:tools:wet_torque_chart_page_3.jpg?400|}}
-{{techtalk:ref:tools:wet_torque_chart_page_4.jpg?400|}}
-{{techtalk:ref:tools:wet_torque_chart_page_5.jpg?400|}}
-{{techtalk:ref:tools:wet_torque_chart_page_6.jpg?400|}}
-{{techtalk:ref:tools:wet_torque_chart_page_7.jpg?400|}}
-{{techtalk:ref:tools:wet_torque_chart_page_8.jpg?400|}}
-{{techtalk:ref:tools:wet_torque_chart_page_9.jpg?400|}}
+Any force that is applied that isn’t at a 90° angle will change the applied torque to the fastener. ((https://agradetools.com/torque-wrench-myth-busted/)) \\
+When you put a crows foot on a torque wrench and use it long-ways, the torque applied to the fastener increases. \\
+If you turn the crows foot at a 90° angle, there is no increase in torque to the fastener from the preset scale. \\
+[[techtalk:ref:tools025#drive_extensions_horizontal_to_the_wrench|Click here for more information on calculating the correct torque]] if not using a crows foot at 90° in the Sportsterpedia.
+|  Flare nut crows foot. \\ Tight corners for non-slip function. ((photo by Hopper of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/63858-special-tools?t=395586))  |  Cheap crows foot. \\ Rounded corners can slip. ((photo by Hippysmack))  |  Using a crows foot on a torque wrench ((photo by Hippysmack))  |
+|{{:techtalk:ref:tools:crows_foot_by_hopper.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:tools:crows_foot_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:tools:torque_with_a_crows_foot_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|
+\\
 \\
 [[:techtalk:menu|{{:techtalk:gototechnicalmenu.jpg|}}]]

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