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techtalk:ref:wheels06 [2024/01/25 01:07] hippysmack |
techtalk:ref:wheels06 [2024/01/25 01:41] hippysmack |
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| ===== Using a Hose and a Jar ===== | ===== Using a Hose and a Jar ===== | ||
| + | * Get a small rubber hose like for the windshield washer on your car about a foot long. \\ You may need to heat it to get it over bleeder valve tip. \\ Put it on the bleeder valve and place the other end in a jar submerged in brake fluid. \\ You can use a jar with a lid and punch a hole the size of the hose in the lid. \\ This keeps the hose from coming out the fluid in the jar. \\ As you pump the brake and let off, the only thing it can pull back is brake fluid. \\ The air goes out the fluid in the jar. \\ Do this awhile and you'll see no more air bubbles coming from the jar. \\ Close bleeder and your good to go. \\ Make sure to not let the master cylinder go dry while doing this. ((ezmerf of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-general-discussion-and-problems/112336-can-t-bleed-the-rear-brake-keep-getting-air-bubbles/page2?t=1062732&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe&page=2)) \\ | ||
| - | * Get a small rubber hose like for the windshield washer on your car about a foot long. \\ You may need to heat it to get it over bleeder valve tip. \\ Put it on the bleeder valve and place the other end in a jar submerged in brake fluid. \\ You can use a jar with a lid and punch a hole the size of the hose in the lid. \\ This keeps the hose from coming out the fluid in the jar. \\ As you pump the brake and let off, the only thing it can pull back is brake fluid. \\ The air goes out the fluid in the jar. \\ Do this awhile and you'll see no more air bubbles coming from the jar. \\ Close bleeder and your good to go. \\ Make sure to not let the master cylinder go dry while doing this. ((ezmerf of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1062732&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe&page=2)) \\ | + | Below, the tube is an automotive shop one-way bleeder set up, but it goes inside the plastic bottle with a small hole in the lid. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/50355-and-yet-another-77-ground-up-rebuild/page6?t=209347&highlight=float+level&page=6)) \\ |
| - | + | ||
| - | Below, the tube is an automotive shop one-way bleeder set up, but it goes inside the plastic bottle with a small hole in the lid. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=209347&highlight=float+level&page=6)) \\ | + | |
| So when the lid is screwed on, even if you knock the bottle over, brake fluid stays inside. \\ | So when the lid is screwed on, even if you knock the bottle over, brake fluid stays inside. \\ | ||
| The wire hook is to hang the bottle on the fender etc. and it stays out of harm's way. \\ | The wire hook is to hang the bottle on the fender etc. and it stays out of harm's way. \\ | ||
| The clothes peg and tag on the bleed hose is to put the hose in the upwards position from the bleed nipple for good air bleed-out. \\ | The clothes peg and tag on the bleed hose is to put the hose in the upwards position from the bleed nipple for good air bleed-out. \\ | ||
| - | | Milk jug and a hose. ((photo by Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=209347&highlight=float+level&page=6)) | | + | | Milk jug and a hose. ((photo by Hopper of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/50355-and-yet-another-77-ground-up-rebuild/page6?t=209347&highlight=float+level&page=6)) | |
| |{{:techtalk:ref:wheels:brake_bleeding_system_by_hopper.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |{{:techtalk:ref:wheels:brake_bleeding_system_by_hopper.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| + | |||
| ===== Using Gravity Assist ===== | ===== Using Gravity Assist ===== | ||
| - | If you're bleeding air; ((Hippysmack of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2072934)) \\ | + | If you're bleeding air; ((Hippysmack of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/196411-bleeding-rear-brakes-and-adjustment-1985?t=2072934)) \\ |
| You can use a clear hose on the end of the bleeder screw (hung high) and you can see exactly what's coming out the brake system. \\ | You can use a clear hose on the end of the bleeder screw (hung high) and you can see exactly what's coming out the brake system. \\ | ||
| This gives confirmation of the presence of air / debris as well as positive reinforcement that the air is being expelled. \\ | This gives confirmation of the presence of air / debris as well as positive reinforcement that the air is being expelled. \\ | ||
| Line 174: | Line 174: | ||
| ===== Using the Finger Method ===== | ===== Using the Finger Method ===== | ||
| - | + | * First, top off the master cylinder and then remove the bleed screw completely. ((rick szymanski of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-intake-and-exhaust/sportster-motorcycle-air-intake-carburetor-efi-fuel-and-exhaust/132514-how-to-bleed-the-front-duel-disk-brakes?t=1417991&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe)) | |
| - | * First, top off the master cylinder and then remove the bleed screw completely. ((rick szymanski of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1417991&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe)) | + | |
| * Plug the bleed screw hole with your finger tightly. | * Plug the bleed screw hole with your finger tightly. | ||
| * Have a friend or you can do it yourself, one at a time. | * Have a friend or you can do it yourself, one at a time. | ||
| * Squeeze the brake while holding tightly over the bleed hole. | * Squeeze the brake while holding tightly over the bleed hole. | ||
| * The fluid and air will push past your finger and seal immediately when the brake is released. | * The fluid and air will push past your finger and seal immediately when the brake is released. | ||
| - | * Your finger will let pressure spray out, but will not let air get sucked back in. ((dabronco of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=47150&page=2)) | + | * Your finger will let pressure spray out, but will not let air get sucked back in. ((dabronco of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/28453-is-the-mighty-vac-worth-the-40-bucks-for-brake-bleeding/page2?t=47150&page=2)) |
| * It's a lot easier and faster than the opening and closing a bleed screw. | * It's a lot easier and faster than the opening and closing a bleed screw. | ||
| * You can do dual calipers at once this way if you have a helper. | * You can do dual calipers at once this way if you have a helper. | ||
| - | * Once you have a solid stream of fluid, you are fine. ((rick szymanski of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1417991&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe)) | + | * Once you have a solid stream of fluid, you are fine. ((rick szymanski of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-intake-and-exhaust/sportster-motorcycle-air-intake-carburetor-efi-fuel-and-exhaust/132514-how-to-bleed-the-front-duel-disk-brakes?t=1417991&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe)) |
| * This is exactly what Speed Bleeders do. They take the place of and act the same as your finger would. ((Hippysmack)) | * This is exactly what Speed Bleeders do. They take the place of and act the same as your finger would. ((Hippysmack)) | ||
| | | ||
| ===== Using Speed Bleeders ===== | ===== Using Speed Bleeders ===== | ||
| - | * Swap your bleeder screw out for a [[http://www.speedbleeder.com/|Speed Bleeder®]]. (('79 Supercharged Fuel Inj of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1188401&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe&page=2)) \\ It is very simple to install: | + | * Swap your bleeder screw out for a [[http://www.speedbleeder.com/|Speed Bleeder®]]. (('79 Supercharged Fuel Inj of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/121410-bleeding-front-brake/page2?t=1188401&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe&page=2)) \\ It is very simple to install: |
| - Simply clean the area around the old bleeder screw so that no dirt or contaminants can get into the brake system. | - Simply clean the area around the old bleeder screw so that no dirt or contaminants can get into the brake system. | ||
| - Remove the old bleeder screw and discard. | - Remove the old bleeder screw and discard. | ||
| Line 195: | Line 194: | ||
| * After bubble-free fluid comes out of the Speed Bleeder screw, close the bleeder until it seats. | * After bubble-free fluid comes out of the Speed Bleeder screw, close the bleeder until it seats. | ||
| * Proceed to the next caliper until all are bled. | * Proceed to the next caliper until all are bled. | ||
| - | * The Speed Bleeder screw has a check valve inside so it can't suck air at the bottom. They're cheap too! ((oldnavy of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1025390&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe)) | + | * The Speed Bleeder screw has a check valve inside so it can't suck air at the bottom. They're cheap too! ((oldnavy of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/109840-bleeding-front-brake?t=1025390&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe)) |
| - | Speed bleeder part numbers by manufacturer. ((IXL2Relax of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=15444&page=5)) | + | Speed bleeder part numbers by manufacturer. ((IXL2Relax of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/9890-speedbleeders/page5?t=15444&page=5)) |
| |Brand|Material|Size|Part#|Length|Notes| | |Brand|Material|Size|Part#|Length|Notes| | ||
| |Russell Brand Speed Bleeders|Stainless Steel|1/4-28|R40525| ? |HD (44179-58)| | |Russell Brand Speed Bleeders|Stainless Steel|1/4-28|R40525| ? |HD (44179-58)| | ||
| Line 244: | Line 243: | ||
| ====== Vacuum Bleeding ====== | ====== Vacuum Bleeding ====== | ||
| - | You can get an inexpensive vacuum bleeder at most auto parts stores. ((stealthammer of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=791904)) \\ | + | You can get an inexpensive vacuum bleeder at most auto parts stores. ((stealthammer of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/95063-help-q-re-replacing-fluid-after-installing-brake-line?t=791904)) \\ |
| - | Basically, you suck the fluid out of the system's hoses, calipers, and master cylinder using a small hand held vacuum pump (known brand: Mighty Vac). ((Joebug of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5707568&highlight=mighty+vac#post5707568)) \\ | + | Basically, you suck the fluid out of the system's hoses, calipers, and master cylinder using a small hand held vacuum pump (known brand: Mighty Vac). ((Joebug of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/195114-brake-upgrade-can-t-bleed/page2?highlight=mighty+vac#post4244079)) \\ |
| You draw all the air out with the brake fluid. \\ | You draw all the air out with the brake fluid. \\ | ||
| But it doesn't always work when tiny air bubbles are trapped in crevices etc. inside the internals of the master cylinder. \\ | But it doesn't always work when tiny air bubbles are trapped in crevices etc. inside the internals of the master cylinder. \\ | ||
| - | As in the case when using DOT 5 brake fluid. ((DIESEL of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=91538&page=2)) \\ | + | As in the case when using DOT 5 brake fluid. ((DIESEL of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/40848-bleeding-the-rear-brake/page2?t=91538&page=2)) \\ |
| DOT 5 is silicon based and it requires patients when using a vacuum bleeder. \\ | DOT 5 is silicon based and it requires patients when using a vacuum bleeder. \\ | ||
| It may frustrate you more than anything if it sucks too hard (creating air bubbles). \\ | It may frustrate you more than anything if it sucks too hard (creating air bubbles). \\ | ||
| - | In speaking of too much vacuum, here is a homemade bleeding system using a vacuum cleaner and a canister. ((photo by Bob F of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1857463&page=2)) \\ | + | In speaking of too much vacuum, here is a homemade bleeding system using a vacuum cleaner and a canister. ((photo by Bob F of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/173094-what-tool-works-on-brake-caliper-mounting-screw/page2?t=1857463&page=2)) \\ |
| {{:techtalk:ref:tools:homemade_brake_bleeding_system_by_bob_f.jpg?direct&300|}} | {{:techtalk:ref:tools:homemade_brake_bleeding_system_by_bob_f.jpg?direct&300|}} | ||
| + | |||
| ===== Mighty Vac ===== | ===== Mighty Vac ===== | ||
| - | + | The Mighty-Vac's big point is assisting in clearing brakes lines of air bubbles, in lines that have high spots which air migrates to. ((Gone of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/28453-is-the-mighty-vac-worth-the-40-bucks-for-brake-bleeding?t=47150)) \\ | |
| - | The Mighty-Vac's big point is assisting in clearing brakes lines of air bubbles, in lines that have high spots which air migrates to. ((Gone of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=47150)) \\ | + | |
| If the system is void of those problem areas, a Mighty-Vac is not likely to work any better. | If the system is void of those problem areas, a Mighty-Vac is not likely to work any better. | ||
| Line 273: | Line 272: | ||
| * **Apply vacuum**. | * **Apply vacuum**. | ||
| * It should only take about 8 to 10 pumps or so to get up to over 20 psi and hold. | * It should only take about 8 to 10 pumps or so to get up to over 20 psi and hold. | ||
| - | * Low vacuum is best. Too much and you pull air past the seals and it just looks like the air is never going to quit (because it isn't). ((Wedge of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2071413&highlight=mighty+vac)) \\ | + | * Low vacuum is best. Too much and you pull air past the seals and it just looks like the air is never going to quit (because it isn't). ((Wedge of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/195114-brake-upgrade-can-t-bleed?t=2071413&highlight=mighty+vac)) \\ |
| - | * Open the bleeder (1/4 turn or so) and the air and fluid will pull right through. ((Shu of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=791904&page=3)) | + | * Open the bleeder (1/4 turn or so) and the air and fluid will pull right through. ((Shu of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/95063-help-q-re-replacing-fluid-after-installing-brake-line/page3?t=791904&page=3)) |
| - | * Keep vacuum until it's a steady stream of fluid, then close it off. ((rick szymanski of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1417991&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe)) \\ Make sure to maintain a vacuum or it could let air back in. ((baka1969 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1697062)) | + | * Keep vacuum until it's a steady stream of fluid, then close it off. ((rick szymanski of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-intake-and-exhaust/sportster-motorcycle-air-intake-carburetor-efi-fuel-and-exhaust/132514-how-to-bleed-the-front-duel-disk-brakes?t=1417991&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe)) \\ Make sure to maintain a vacuum or it could let air back in. ((baka1969 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/158546-no-front-brake-pressure?t=1697062)) |
| * This will still take several tries until you get fluid. \\ Make sure you keep an eye on the bowl and don't let the fluid get too low or you will start to suck air. \\ Keep repeating until you on longer see any bubbles in the fluid line into the mightvac. | * This will still take several tries until you get fluid. \\ Make sure you keep an eye on the bowl and don't let the fluid get too low or you will start to suck air. \\ Keep repeating until you on longer see any bubbles in the fluid line into the mightvac. | ||
| * Once you get fluid, close bleeder, top off the master cylinder, put cover the back on and try to pump the brake pedal. | * Once you get fluid, close bleeder, top off the master cylinder, put cover the back on and try to pump the brake pedal. | ||
| - | * When you get pedal, then bleed manually to ensure that all air has escaped. ((XLFREAK of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1062732&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe&page=4)) | + | * When you get pedal, then bleed manually to ensure that all air has escaped. ((XLFREAK of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-general-discussion-and-problems/112336-can-t-bleed-the-rear-brake-keep-getting-air-bubbles/page4?t=1062732&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe&page=4)) |
| * If you apply vacuum and can not build it, then you have a leak somewhere in the system that must be repaired. | * If you apply vacuum and can not build it, then you have a leak somewhere in the system that must be repaired. | ||
| [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTySPh9xXJs|Here is a video on it also]] \\ | [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTySPh9xXJs|Here is a video on it also]] \\ | ||
| - | |Mighty Vac for sucking brake fluid from the master cylinder and out the bleeder screw. ((photos by cat5752 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=295754&page=2))|| | + | |Mighty Vac for sucking brake fluid from the master cylinder and out the bleeder screw. ((photos by cat5752 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/57107-simply-bleeding-the-front-brake/page2?t=295754&page=2))|| |
| |{{:techtalk:ref:tools:mighty_vac_1_by_cat5752.jpg?direct&250|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:tools:mighty_vac_2_by_cat5752.jpg?direct&400|}}| | |{{:techtalk:ref:tools:mighty_vac_1_by_cat5752.jpg?direct&250|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:tools:mighty_vac_2_by_cat5752.jpg?direct&400|}}| | ||
| - | |||
| ===== Aquarium Pump ===== | ===== Aquarium Pump ===== | ||
| - | You can hook up one of the cheapo aquarium pumps to the brake bleeder. ((flskevin of the xlforum http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33235)) \\ | + | You can hook up one of the cheapo aquarium pumps to the brake bleeder. ((flskevin of the xlforum https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-photos-videos/20061-bleeding-brakes?t=33235)) \\ |
| Setup is pretty straight forward. \\ | Setup is pretty straight forward. \\ | ||
| The lower volume pump is all you need and they are usually between $10 and 15$ at Walmart or others. | The lower volume pump is all you need and they are usually between $10 and 15$ at Walmart or others. | ||
| Line 296: | Line 294: | ||
| * Open the bleeder screw and power on the pump. | * Open the bleeder screw and power on the pump. | ||
| * Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder and don't let it go low. | * Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder and don't let it go low. | ||
| - | |||
| ====== Binding the Pedal / Lever ====== | ====== Binding the Pedal / Lever ====== | ||
| * This method relies on time under pressure where the microscopic bubbles migrate up the line to the reservoir. \\ The master cylinder has to be higher then the caliper and lines to and fro. \\ This is critical to getting the air up and out of the system. \\ Then while applying normal light to medium braking pressure on the pedal / lever; \\ Wrap some tape or rope around it to keep pressure on the system when you let go. \\ Let it stay like that at least overnight. The next day remove the binding and work the pedal / lever. It will feel firmer than it has ever felt. \\ By keeping the fluid under extreme pressure over an extended period of time; \\ It forces the microscopic bubbles to migrate together into large enough bubbles to slowly work it's way up to the master cylinder. \\ However, this still traps air between the plunger and the master cylinder. \\ When you remove the binding the next day; \\ The pedal / lever relaxes the plunger to open the path into the master and allow the trapped air to float into the top of the reservoir. \\ If you've already tried another method, have brakes but they are soft and don't want to open the bleeder again, this might finish the job. | * This method relies on time under pressure where the microscopic bubbles migrate up the line to the reservoir. \\ The master cylinder has to be higher then the caliper and lines to and fro. \\ This is critical to getting the air up and out of the system. \\ Then while applying normal light to medium braking pressure on the pedal / lever; \\ Wrap some tape or rope around it to keep pressure on the system when you let go. \\ Let it stay like that at least overnight. The next day remove the binding and work the pedal / lever. It will feel firmer than it has ever felt. \\ By keeping the fluid under extreme pressure over an extended period of time; \\ It forces the microscopic bubbles to migrate together into large enough bubbles to slowly work it's way up to the master cylinder. \\ However, this still traps air between the plunger and the master cylinder. \\ When you remove the binding the next day; \\ The pedal / lever relaxes the plunger to open the path into the master and allow the trapped air to float into the top of the reservoir. \\ If you've already tried another method, have brakes but they are soft and don't want to open the bleeder again, this might finish the job. | ||
| - | + | * For the front, tie the brake lever to the grips with tape, a rope, or a zip tie. ((ReddTigger of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/158546-no-front-brake-pressure?t=1697062)) \\ | |
| - | * For the front, tie the brake lever to the grips with tape, a rope, or a zip tie. ((ReddTigger of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1697062)) \\ | + | * With the bike on the side stand turn the bars so the master is positioned with the banjo bolt head pointing slightly downward. ((PaddyD of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/9890-speedbleeders/page5?t=15444&page=5)) \\ This puts the tiny feed hole in the master uphill of everything. \\ |
| - | * With the bike on the side stand turn the bars so the master is positioned with the banjo bolt head pointing slightly downward. ((PaddyD of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=15444&page=5)) \\ This puts the tiny feed hole in the master uphill of everything. \\ | + | |
| * For the rear, the front tire needs to be elevated enough to set the rear master cylinder higher than the caliper / brake lines. | * For the rear, the front tire needs to be elevated enough to set the rear master cylinder higher than the caliper / brake lines. | ||
| * Either you'll have a firm lever / pedal in the morning or you'll see leaking in the assembly, lines, banjos.etc. | * Either you'll have a firm lever / pedal in the morning or you'll see leaking in the assembly, lines, banjos.etc. | ||
| * Or course, if it's still spongy, try it again. | * Or course, if it's still spongy, try it again. | ||
| + | |{{:techtalk:ref:wheels:brake_handle_binding_to_bleed_brakes_by_handoverfist.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| - | | | ||
| - | |{{:techtalk:ref:wheels:brake_handle_binding_to_bleed_brakes_by_handoverfist.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| ====== The Tickle and Tap Method ====== | ====== The Tickle and Tap Method ====== | ||
| - | + | With this method, you leave the bleeder screw closed. ((hybriDatsun350 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/28453-is-the-mighty-vac-worth-the-40-bucks-for-brake-bleeding?t=47150)) \\ | |
| - | With this method, you leave the bleeder screw closed. ((hybriDatsun350 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=47150)) \\ | + | You'd think this wouldn't work as well for the rear with the M/C lower than the caliper. But it is said to work. ((cantolina of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/20389-bad-bleeder-screw?t=33736)) \\ |
| - | You'd think this wouldn't work as well for the rear with the M/C lower than the caliper. But it is said to work. ((cantolina of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33736)) \\ | + | |
| Take take the cap off of the master cylinder and flutter the lever. \\ | Take take the cap off of the master cylinder and flutter the lever. \\ | ||
| You barely have to move it back and forth. Just continuously tap it from the front with your hand and you will see air bubbles coming up. \\ Air should rise through liquid. \\ | You barely have to move it back and forth. Just continuously tap it from the front with your hand and you will see air bubbles coming up. \\ Air should rise through liquid. \\ | ||
| Stop every once and a while and tap the line with the handle of a screwdriver to free any stuck air bubbles. | Stop every once and a while and tap the line with the handle of a screwdriver to free any stuck air bubbles. | ||
| - | - With the bike on a lift or the jiffy stand, turn the front wheel to the LEFT until the front master cylinder is as close to level as possible. ((Gold951 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=53378&page=2)) \\ Squeeze the brake lever as far as you can and note how the brakes feel and how far the lever moves. | + | - With the bike on a lift or the jiffy stand, turn the front wheel to the LEFT until the front master cylinder is as close to level as possible. ((Gold951 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/32162-stripped-bleeder-valve/page2?t=53378&page=2)) \\ Squeeze the brake lever as far as you can and note how the brakes feel and how far the lever moves. |
| - Clean the area around the reservoir cap, remove the cap and top off the brake fluid. \\ Leave the cap off. | - Clean the area around the reservoir cap, remove the cap and top off the brake fluid. \\ Leave the cap off. | ||
| - Starting at the front caliper, __gently__ rap the brake line with a screwdriver handle or similar tool, working your way up the brake line. | - Starting at the front caliper, __gently__ rap the brake line with a screwdriver handle or similar tool, working your way up the brake line. | ||
| - | - Now tickle your brake lever. Move it no more that 1/8" or so. ((cantolina of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33736)) \\ Looking into the reservoir, you will notice a particular point when the air comes up. \\ (not everytime, but always in the same place in the lever movement) \\ Sometimes it comes out in very small bubbles. You may have to use a flashlight at first. | + | - Now tickle your brake lever. Move it no more that 1/8" or so. ((cantolina of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/20389-bad-bleeder-screw?t=33736)) \\ Looking into the reservoir, you will notice a particular point when the air comes up. \\ (not everytime, but always in the same place in the lever movement) \\ Sometimes it comes out in very small bubbles. You may have to use a flashlight at first. |
| - When air stops coming out, quickly release the brake lever letting it "snap" against the mechanical stop. \\ (you should see small bubbles coming out of the small port in the piston bore) | - When air stops coming out, quickly release the brake lever letting it "snap" against the mechanical stop. \\ (you should see small bubbles coming out of the small port in the piston bore) | ||
| - Repeat steps 3 through 5 several times. \\ The size and quantity of bubbles should decrease. | - Repeat steps 3 through 5 several times. \\ The size and quantity of bubbles should decrease. | ||
| - Slowly squeeze the brake handle as far as you can. \\ Note brake feel and lever travel and then quickly release the brake lever. | - Slowly squeeze the brake handle as far as you can. \\ Note brake feel and lever travel and then quickly release the brake lever. | ||
| - | - Repeat steps 3 through 7 as necessary. \\ Repeat this for quite a while until you have 'some' lever. \\ Then you may need to proceed to bleed as usual afterwards (depending on results). ((cantolina of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33736)) | + | - Repeat steps 3 through 7 as necessary. \\ Repeat this for quite a while until you have 'some' lever. \\ Then you may need to proceed to bleed as usual afterwards (depending on results). ((cantolina of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/20389-bad-bleeder-screw?t=33736)) |
| - Top off the master cylinder and install the cover. | - Top off the master cylinder and install the cover. | ||
| ====== Gravity Bleeding ====== | ====== Gravity Bleeding ====== | ||
| - | + | * This takes a while, but it works. Open the bleeders and wait for a steady leak and close the bleed screw. Should be good. ((rick szymanski of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-intake-and-exhaust/sportster-motorcycle-air-intake-carburetor-efi-fuel-and-exhaust/132514-how-to-bleed-the-front-duel-disk-brakes?t=1417991&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe)) | |
| - | * This takes a while, but it works. Open the bleeders and wait for a steady leak and close the bleed screw. Should be good. ((rick szymanski of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1417991&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe)) | + | * Try leaving the top off of the master cylinder overnight. Sometimes the air will work itself out over a few hours. ((jharback of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/109840-bleeding-front-brake?t=1025390&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe)) |
| - | * Try leaving the top off of the master cylinder overnight. Sometimes the air will work itself out over a few hours. ((jharback of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1025390&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe)) | + | * Tap the line lightly to help move bubbles that may be stuck somewhere in the system. ((rejeanprimeau of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/150929-rubbermount-rear-master-cylinder/page2?t=1632435&page=2)) |
| - | * Tap the line lightly to help move bubbles that may be stuck somewhere in the system. ((rejeanprimeau of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1632435&page=2)) | + | |
| ====== XLFORUM Bleeding Advice ====== | ====== XLFORUM Bleeding Advice ====== | ||
| ===== Patience ===== | ===== Patience ===== | ||
| - | |||
| * **Don't give up** | * **Don't give up** | ||
| - | * Bleeding a bike MC can be a chore. ((PetesPonies of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1025390&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe)) \\ If you get frustrated with it, walk away. \\ Come back to it when you are in a more calm state of mind. ((aswyk of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1062732&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe&page=3)) | + | * Bleeding a bike MC can be a chore. ((PetesPonies of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/109840-bleeding-front-brake?t=1025390&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe)) \\ If you get frustrated with it, walk away. \\ Come back to it when you are in a more calm state of mind. ((aswyk of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-general-discussion-and-problems/112336-can-t-bleed-the-rear-brake-keep-getting-air-bubbles/page3?t=1062732&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe&page=3)) |
| ===== Before bleeding ===== | ===== Before bleeding ===== | ||
| ==== Before attempting to bleed the lines ==== | ==== Before attempting to bleed the lines ==== | ||
| - | |||
| * Remove the M/C top, actuate the pedal / lever and make sure you can see a small squirt of fluid in the center to make sure the M/C is working. | * Remove the M/C top, actuate the pedal / lever and make sure you can see a small squirt of fluid in the center to make sure the M/C is working. | ||
| * The small squirt of fluid is just a visual that tells you the piston is retracting home as it should when released. \\ The small fluid (not air) squirt only shows up on initial single push of the lever/pedal, not upon release. \\ The hole through from the reservoir to the entire brake fluid path is JUST in front of the rubber on the piston. \\ From that hole, lever/pedal at rest, the entire brake line/fluid path is open to the reservoir up top. \\ Brake system is now an (open system). | * The small squirt of fluid is just a visual that tells you the piston is retracting home as it should when released. \\ The small fluid (not air) squirt only shows up on initial single push of the lever/pedal, not upon release. \\ The hole through from the reservoir to the entire brake fluid path is JUST in front of the rubber on the piston. \\ From that hole, lever/pedal at rest, the entire brake line/fluid path is open to the reservoir up top. \\ Brake system is now an (open system). | ||
| Line 355: | Line 346: | ||
| * Push the lever/pedal and release....once and let go. You should see a small squirt of fluid on the push action. | * Push the lever/pedal and release....once and let go. You should see a small squirt of fluid on the push action. | ||
| * You should NOT see a squirt when releasing the lever/pedal, only initial single push instead. | * You should NOT see a squirt when releasing the lever/pedal, only initial single push instead. | ||
| - | * If you see a geyser of fluid, the rubber cup busted at the piston in the master cylinder and you'll need to install a repair kit. ((rejeanprimeau of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1643503)) \\ (to avoid this in the future: open the bleeder when pushing your caliper piston in) | + | * If you see a geyser of fluid, the rubber cup busted at the piston in the master cylinder and you'll need to install a repair kit. ((rejeanprimeau of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/152494-brake-bleeding-problem?t=1643503)) \\ (to avoid this in the future: open the bleeder when pushing your caliper piston in) |
| * If you don't have a geyser shooting up when pushing the lever, the rubber is doing it's job. | * If you don't have a geyser shooting up when pushing the lever, the rubber is doing it's job. | ||
| * An occasional air bubble of any size from the squirt indicates air in the brake system and has got to be removed. | * An occasional air bubble of any size from the squirt indicates air in the brake system and has got to be removed. | ||
| Line 362: | Line 353: | ||
| * Fill the system/brake cylinder bowl with the correct fluid. | * Fill the system/brake cylinder bowl with the correct fluid. | ||
| * Ensure that the relief port is clear of debris. | * Ensure that the relief port is clear of debris. | ||
| - | * Make sure the brake cylinder piston is fully retracted. ((XLFREAK of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1062732&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe&page=4)) | + | * Make sure the brake cylinder piston is fully retracted. ((XLFREAK of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-general-discussion-and-problems/112336-can-t-bleed-the-rear-brake-keep-getting-air-bubbles/page4?t=1062732&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe&page=4)) |
| * Check the brake pads to ensure they are within spec. | * Check the brake pads to ensure they are within spec. | ||
| - | * When you crack the bleeder valve, only turn it a 1/4 turn or so. ((DaytonaSportster of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1637840&page=2)) \\ Any more and you will get air from around the threads. \\ Also if you're using a vac, make sure it's not leaking where you attach it to the bleeder nipple. | + | * When you crack the bleeder valve, only turn it a 1/4 turn or so. ((DaytonaSportster of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/151790-front-brake-has-no-pressure-tried-drain-bleed-no-success/page2?t=1637840&page=2)) \\ Any more and you will get air from around the threads. \\ Also if you're using a vac, make sure it's not leaking where you attach it to the bleeder nipple. |
| ==== How the master cylinder transfers fluid ==== | ==== How the master cylinder transfers fluid ==== | ||
| - | |||
| * The downstroke, pushing the pedal / pulling the lever, forces (only) what's in the lines already into the hose. ((Hippysmack of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5740029#post5740029)) \\ Releasing the pedal (pedal at rest) is what adds fluid into the lines from the M/C reservoir. | * The downstroke, pushing the pedal / pulling the lever, forces (only) what's in the lines already into the hose. ((Hippysmack of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5740029#post5740029)) \\ Releasing the pedal (pedal at rest) is what adds fluid into the lines from the M/C reservoir. | ||
| * The compensation port (from the reservoir) sits just in front of the main plunger seal. \\ The lever has to fully retract or the port get's blocked off by the seal. | * The compensation port (from the reservoir) sits just in front of the main plunger seal. \\ The lever has to fully retract or the port get's blocked off by the seal. | ||
