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| ===== Aquarium Pump ===== | ===== Aquarium Pump ===== | ||
| - | You can hook up one of the cheapo aquarium pumps to the brake bleeder. ((flskevin of the xlforum http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33235)) \\ | + | You can hook up one of the cheapo aquarium pumps to the brake bleeder. ((flskevin of the xlforum https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-photos-videos/20061-bleeding-brakes?t=33235)) \\ |
| Setup is pretty straight forward. \\ | Setup is pretty straight forward. \\ | ||
| The lower volume pump is all you need and they are usually between $10 and 15$ at Walmart or others. | The lower volume pump is all you need and they are usually between $10 and 15$ at Walmart or others. | ||
| Line 294: | Line 294: | ||
| * Open the bleeder screw and power on the pump. | * Open the bleeder screw and power on the pump. | ||
| * Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder and don't let it go low. | * Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder and don't let it go low. | ||
| - | |||
| ====== Binding the Pedal / Lever ====== | ====== Binding the Pedal / Lever ====== | ||
| * This method relies on time under pressure where the microscopic bubbles migrate up the line to the reservoir. \\ The master cylinder has to be higher then the caliper and lines to and fro. \\ This is critical to getting the air up and out of the system. \\ Then while applying normal light to medium braking pressure on the pedal / lever; \\ Wrap some tape or rope around it to keep pressure on the system when you let go. \\ Let it stay like that at least overnight. The next day remove the binding and work the pedal / lever. It will feel firmer than it has ever felt. \\ By keeping the fluid under extreme pressure over an extended period of time; \\ It forces the microscopic bubbles to migrate together into large enough bubbles to slowly work it's way up to the master cylinder. \\ However, this still traps air between the plunger and the master cylinder. \\ When you remove the binding the next day; \\ The pedal / lever relaxes the plunger to open the path into the master and allow the trapped air to float into the top of the reservoir. \\ If you've already tried another method, have brakes but they are soft and don't want to open the bleeder again, this might finish the job. | * This method relies on time under pressure where the microscopic bubbles migrate up the line to the reservoir. \\ The master cylinder has to be higher then the caliper and lines to and fro. \\ This is critical to getting the air up and out of the system. \\ Then while applying normal light to medium braking pressure on the pedal / lever; \\ Wrap some tape or rope around it to keep pressure on the system when you let go. \\ Let it stay like that at least overnight. The next day remove the binding and work the pedal / lever. It will feel firmer than it has ever felt. \\ By keeping the fluid under extreme pressure over an extended period of time; \\ It forces the microscopic bubbles to migrate together into large enough bubbles to slowly work it's way up to the master cylinder. \\ However, this still traps air between the plunger and the master cylinder. \\ When you remove the binding the next day; \\ The pedal / lever relaxes the plunger to open the path into the master and allow the trapped air to float into the top of the reservoir. \\ If you've already tried another method, have brakes but they are soft and don't want to open the bleeder again, this might finish the job. | ||
| - | + | * For the front, tie the brake lever to the grips with tape, a rope, or a zip tie. ((ReddTigger of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/158546-no-front-brake-pressure?t=1697062)) \\ | |
| - | * For the front, tie the brake lever to the grips with tape, a rope, or a zip tie. ((ReddTigger of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1697062)) \\ | + | * With the bike on the side stand turn the bars so the master is positioned with the banjo bolt head pointing slightly downward. ((PaddyD of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/9890-speedbleeders/page5?t=15444&page=5)) \\ This puts the tiny feed hole in the master uphill of everything. \\ |
| - | * With the bike on the side stand turn the bars so the master is positioned with the banjo bolt head pointing slightly downward. ((PaddyD of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=15444&page=5)) \\ This puts the tiny feed hole in the master uphill of everything. \\ | + | |
| * For the rear, the front tire needs to be elevated enough to set the rear master cylinder higher than the caliper / brake lines. | * For the rear, the front tire needs to be elevated enough to set the rear master cylinder higher than the caliper / brake lines. | ||
| * Either you'll have a firm lever / pedal in the morning or you'll see leaking in the assembly, lines, banjos.etc. | * Either you'll have a firm lever / pedal in the morning or you'll see leaking in the assembly, lines, banjos.etc. | ||
| * Or course, if it's still spongy, try it again. | * Or course, if it's still spongy, try it again. | ||
| + | |{{:techtalk:ref:wheels:brake_handle_binding_to_bleed_brakes_by_handoverfist.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| - | | | ||
| - | |{{:techtalk:ref:wheels:brake_handle_binding_to_bleed_brakes_by_handoverfist.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| ====== The Tickle and Tap Method ====== | ====== The Tickle and Tap Method ====== | ||
| - | + | With this method, you leave the bleeder screw closed. ((hybriDatsun350 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/28453-is-the-mighty-vac-worth-the-40-bucks-for-brake-bleeding?t=47150)) \\ | |
| - | With this method, you leave the bleeder screw closed. ((hybriDatsun350 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=47150)) \\ | + | You'd think this wouldn't work as well for the rear with the M/C lower than the caliper. But it is said to work. ((cantolina of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/20389-bad-bleeder-screw?t=33736)) \\ |
| - | You'd think this wouldn't work as well for the rear with the M/C lower than the caliper. But it is said to work. ((cantolina of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33736)) \\ | + | |
| Take take the cap off of the master cylinder and flutter the lever. \\ | Take take the cap off of the master cylinder and flutter the lever. \\ | ||
| You barely have to move it back and forth. Just continuously tap it from the front with your hand and you will see air bubbles coming up. \\ Air should rise through liquid. \\ | You barely have to move it back and forth. Just continuously tap it from the front with your hand and you will see air bubbles coming up. \\ Air should rise through liquid. \\ | ||
| Stop every once and a while and tap the line with the handle of a screwdriver to free any stuck air bubbles. | Stop every once and a while and tap the line with the handle of a screwdriver to free any stuck air bubbles. | ||
| - | - With the bike on a lift or the jiffy stand, turn the front wheel to the LEFT until the front master cylinder is as close to level as possible. ((Gold951 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=53378&page=2)) \\ Squeeze the brake lever as far as you can and note how the brakes feel and how far the lever moves. | + | - With the bike on a lift or the jiffy stand, turn the front wheel to the LEFT until the front master cylinder is as close to level as possible. ((Gold951 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/32162-stripped-bleeder-valve/page2?t=53378&page=2)) \\ Squeeze the brake lever as far as you can and note how the brakes feel and how far the lever moves. |
| - Clean the area around the reservoir cap, remove the cap and top off the brake fluid. \\ Leave the cap off. | - Clean the area around the reservoir cap, remove the cap and top off the brake fluid. \\ Leave the cap off. | ||
| - Starting at the front caliper, __gently__ rap the brake line with a screwdriver handle or similar tool, working your way up the brake line. | - Starting at the front caliper, __gently__ rap the brake line with a screwdriver handle or similar tool, working your way up the brake line. | ||
| - | - Now tickle your brake lever. Move it no more that 1/8" or so. ((cantolina of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33736)) \\ Looking into the reservoir, you will notice a particular point when the air comes up. \\ (not everytime, but always in the same place in the lever movement) \\ Sometimes it comes out in very small bubbles. You may have to use a flashlight at first. | + | - Now tickle your brake lever. Move it no more that 1/8" or so. ((cantolina of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/20389-bad-bleeder-screw?t=33736)) \\ Looking into the reservoir, you will notice a particular point when the air comes up. \\ (not everytime, but always in the same place in the lever movement) \\ Sometimes it comes out in very small bubbles. You may have to use a flashlight at first. |
| - When air stops coming out, quickly release the brake lever letting it "snap" against the mechanical stop. \\ (you should see small bubbles coming out of the small port in the piston bore) | - When air stops coming out, quickly release the brake lever letting it "snap" against the mechanical stop. \\ (you should see small bubbles coming out of the small port in the piston bore) | ||
| - Repeat steps 3 through 5 several times. \\ The size and quantity of bubbles should decrease. | - Repeat steps 3 through 5 several times. \\ The size and quantity of bubbles should decrease. | ||
| - Slowly squeeze the brake handle as far as you can. \\ Note brake feel and lever travel and then quickly release the brake lever. | - Slowly squeeze the brake handle as far as you can. \\ Note brake feel and lever travel and then quickly release the brake lever. | ||
| - | - Repeat steps 3 through 7 as necessary. \\ Repeat this for quite a while until you have 'some' lever. \\ Then you may need to proceed to bleed as usual afterwards (depending on results). ((cantolina of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33736)) | + | - Repeat steps 3 through 7 as necessary. \\ Repeat this for quite a while until you have 'some' lever. \\ Then you may need to proceed to bleed as usual afterwards (depending on results). ((cantolina of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/20389-bad-bleeder-screw?t=33736)) |
| - Top off the master cylinder and install the cover. | - Top off the master cylinder and install the cover. | ||
| ====== Gravity Bleeding ====== | ====== Gravity Bleeding ====== | ||
| - | + | * This takes a while, but it works. Open the bleeders and wait for a steady leak and close the bleed screw. Should be good. ((rick szymanski of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-intake-and-exhaust/sportster-motorcycle-air-intake-carburetor-efi-fuel-and-exhaust/132514-how-to-bleed-the-front-duel-disk-brakes?t=1417991&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe)) | |
| - | * This takes a while, but it works. Open the bleeders and wait for a steady leak and close the bleed screw. Should be good. ((rick szymanski of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1417991&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe)) | + | * Try leaving the top off of the master cylinder overnight. Sometimes the air will work itself out over a few hours. ((jharback of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/109840-bleeding-front-brake?t=1025390&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe)) |
| - | * Try leaving the top off of the master cylinder overnight. Sometimes the air will work itself out over a few hours. ((jharback of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1025390&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe)) | + | * Tap the line lightly to help move bubbles that may be stuck somewhere in the system. ((rejeanprimeau of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/150929-rubbermount-rear-master-cylinder/page2?t=1632435&page=2)) |
| - | * Tap the line lightly to help move bubbles that may be stuck somewhere in the system. ((rejeanprimeau of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1632435&page=2)) | + | |
| ====== XLFORUM Bleeding Advice ====== | ====== XLFORUM Bleeding Advice ====== | ||
| ===== Patience ===== | ===== Patience ===== | ||
| - | |||
| * **Don't give up** | * **Don't give up** | ||
| - | * Bleeding a bike MC can be a chore. ((PetesPonies of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1025390&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe)) \\ If you get frustrated with it, walk away. \\ Come back to it when you are in a more calm state of mind. ((aswyk of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1062732&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe&page=3)) | + | * Bleeding a bike MC can be a chore. ((PetesPonies of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/109840-bleeding-front-brake?t=1025390&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe)) \\ If you get frustrated with it, walk away. \\ Come back to it when you are in a more calm state of mind. ((aswyk of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-general-discussion-and-problems/112336-can-t-bleed-the-rear-brake-keep-getting-air-bubbles/page3?t=1062732&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe&page=3)) |
| ===== Before bleeding ===== | ===== Before bleeding ===== | ||
| ==== Before attempting to bleed the lines ==== | ==== Before attempting to bleed the lines ==== | ||
| - | |||
| * Remove the M/C top, actuate the pedal / lever and make sure you can see a small squirt of fluid in the center to make sure the M/C is working. | * Remove the M/C top, actuate the pedal / lever and make sure you can see a small squirt of fluid in the center to make sure the M/C is working. | ||
| * The small squirt of fluid is just a visual that tells you the piston is retracting home as it should when released. \\ The small fluid (not air) squirt only shows up on initial single push of the lever/pedal, not upon release. \\ The hole through from the reservoir to the entire brake fluid path is JUST in front of the rubber on the piston. \\ From that hole, lever/pedal at rest, the entire brake line/fluid path is open to the reservoir up top. \\ Brake system is now an (open system). | * The small squirt of fluid is just a visual that tells you the piston is retracting home as it should when released. \\ The small fluid (not air) squirt only shows up on initial single push of the lever/pedal, not upon release. \\ The hole through from the reservoir to the entire brake fluid path is JUST in front of the rubber on the piston. \\ From that hole, lever/pedal at rest, the entire brake line/fluid path is open to the reservoir up top. \\ Brake system is now an (open system). | ||
| Line 353: | Line 346: | ||
| * Push the lever/pedal and release....once and let go. You should see a small squirt of fluid on the push action. | * Push the lever/pedal and release....once and let go. You should see a small squirt of fluid on the push action. | ||
| * You should NOT see a squirt when releasing the lever/pedal, only initial single push instead. | * You should NOT see a squirt when releasing the lever/pedal, only initial single push instead. | ||
| - | * If you see a geyser of fluid, the rubber cup busted at the piston in the master cylinder and you'll need to install a repair kit. ((rejeanprimeau of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1643503)) \\ (to avoid this in the future: open the bleeder when pushing your caliper piston in) | + | * If you see a geyser of fluid, the rubber cup busted at the piston in the master cylinder and you'll need to install a repair kit. ((rejeanprimeau of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/152494-brake-bleeding-problem?t=1643503)) \\ (to avoid this in the future: open the bleeder when pushing your caliper piston in) |
| * If you don't have a geyser shooting up when pushing the lever, the rubber is doing it's job. | * If you don't have a geyser shooting up when pushing the lever, the rubber is doing it's job. | ||
| * An occasional air bubble of any size from the squirt indicates air in the brake system and has got to be removed. | * An occasional air bubble of any size from the squirt indicates air in the brake system and has got to be removed. | ||
| Line 360: | Line 353: | ||
| * Fill the system/brake cylinder bowl with the correct fluid. | * Fill the system/brake cylinder bowl with the correct fluid. | ||
| * Ensure that the relief port is clear of debris. | * Ensure that the relief port is clear of debris. | ||
| - | * Make sure the brake cylinder piston is fully retracted. ((XLFREAK of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1062732&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe&page=4)) | + | * Make sure the brake cylinder piston is fully retracted. ((XLFREAK of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-general-discussion-and-problems/112336-can-t-bleed-the-rear-brake-keep-getting-air-bubbles/page4?t=1062732&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe&page=4)) |
| * Check the brake pads to ensure they are within spec. | * Check the brake pads to ensure they are within spec. | ||
| - | * When you crack the bleeder valve, only turn it a 1/4 turn or so. ((DaytonaSportster of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1637840&page=2)) \\ Any more and you will get air from around the threads. \\ Also if you're using a vac, make sure it's not leaking where you attach it to the bleeder nipple. | + | * When you crack the bleeder valve, only turn it a 1/4 turn or so. ((DaytonaSportster of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/151790-front-brake-has-no-pressure-tried-drain-bleed-no-success/page2?t=1637840&page=2)) \\ Any more and you will get air from around the threads. \\ Also if you're using a vac, make sure it's not leaking where you attach it to the bleeder nipple. |
| ==== How the master cylinder transfers fluid ==== | ==== How the master cylinder transfers fluid ==== | ||
| - | |||
| * The downstroke, pushing the pedal / pulling the lever, forces (only) what's in the lines already into the hose. ((Hippysmack of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5740029#post5740029)) \\ Releasing the pedal (pedal at rest) is what adds fluid into the lines from the M/C reservoir. | * The downstroke, pushing the pedal / pulling the lever, forces (only) what's in the lines already into the hose. ((Hippysmack of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5740029#post5740029)) \\ Releasing the pedal (pedal at rest) is what adds fluid into the lines from the M/C reservoir. | ||
| * The compensation port (from the reservoir) sits just in front of the main plunger seal. \\ The lever has to fully retract or the port get's blocked off by the seal. | * The compensation port (from the reservoir) sits just in front of the main plunger seal. \\ The lever has to fully retract or the port get's blocked off by the seal. | ||
