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techtalk:ih:oil06 [2020/09/23 17:47] hippysmack [Final Drive Sprocket] |
techtalk:ih:oil06 [2024/01/01 22:52] hippysmack |
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| ===== Sub Documents ===== | ===== Sub Documents ===== | ||
| - | * [[techtalk:ih:oil06a|Dr Dick on Oil Leaks]] | + | * [[techtalk:ih:oil06a|Click Here]] for the article "Dr Dick on Oil Leaks". |
| - | + | ||
| - | \\ | + | |
| **First and foremost, do not use silicone sealer on any engine, oil pump or related parts or gaskets to stop a leak**. \\ | **First and foremost, do not use silicone sealer on any engine, oil pump or related parts or gaskets to stop a leak**. \\ | ||
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| These pieces may stop up oil passages and starve the engine of oil. \\ | These pieces may stop up oil passages and starve the engine of oil. \\ | ||
| - | **What constitutes an oil leak**? ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1918224)) \\ | + | **What constitutes an oil leak**? ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/178459-considering-cork-rocker-gaskets?t=1918224)) \\ |
| * Leak: Liquid oil on the outside of your rocker box, head etc. | * Leak: Liquid oil on the outside of your rocker box, head etc. | ||
| * Weep: An oily residue that traps road dust leading to a damp, dirty build up. | * Weep: An oily residue that traps road dust leading to a damp, dirty build up. | ||
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| In an instance where used silicone was used to seal the gaskets, pieces of silicone (or sheets) could be sucked in, stretched and broke off into the engine. \\ | In an instance where used silicone was used to seal the gaskets, pieces of silicone (or sheets) could be sucked in, stretched and broke off into the engine. \\ | ||
| This silicone 'gummy bear' sheet was found in the oil pump. \\ | This silicone 'gummy bear' sheet was found in the oil pump. \\ | ||
| - | {{:techtalk:evo:oil:oil_pump_damage_3_by_-_-_-_annotated.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by (-_-) of the XLFORUM, annotated by Hippysmack http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2074835&page=3)) \\ | + | {{:techtalk:evo:oil:oil_pump_damage_3_by_-_-_-_annotated.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by (-_-) of the XLFORUM, annotated by Hippysmack https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/efi-sportster-motorcycle-talk-2007-and-up/198113-help-me-figure-out-weird-engine-braking/page3?t=2074835&page=3)) \\ |
| ====== Diagnosing Oil Consumption ====== | ====== Diagnosing Oil Consumption ====== | ||
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| * **If engine uses too much oil**; | * **If engine uses too much oil**; | ||
| * Check the breather valve for incorrect timing (57-76) or a plugged or non flexible condition (77-85). | * Check the breather valve for incorrect timing (57-76) or a plugged or non flexible condition (77-85). | ||
| - | * On models with a chain oiler, adjust the chain oiler adjusting screw to make sure it's not over oiling. | + | * On 57-76 models with a chain oiler, turn the adjusting screw to make sure it's not over oiling or just plug it off. |
| * Crankcase pressure restrictions. Look for kinks / restrictions in the oil tank vent line or breather vent. \\ Also check for a plugged oil filter (if applicable). | * Crankcase pressure restrictions. Look for kinks / restrictions in the oil tank vent line or breather vent. \\ Also check for a plugged oil filter (if applicable). | ||
| * Loose parts. Look for external oil leaks. | * Loose parts. Look for external oil leaks. | ||
| * **Excess blow-by past the rings or valves**. | * **Excess blow-by past the rings or valves**. | ||
| - | * Look for broken rings, too much ring end gap, wrong bore surface finish for the type of ring you are using, etc. ((XLFREAK of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1528264&page=2)) | + | * Look for broken rings, too much ring end gap, wrong bore surface finish for the type of ring you are using, etc. ((XLFREAK of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/140994-high-oil-consumption/page2?t=1528264&page=2)) |
| * Forged pistons (if installed) run more clearance than cast and will use more oil. | * Forged pistons (if installed) run more clearance than cast and will use more oil. | ||
| * Old / worn rings or valves allow excess blowby which could pull oil into the combustion chambers and out of the bottom end. | * Old / worn rings or valves allow excess blowby which could pull oil into the combustion chambers and out of the bottom end. | ||
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| * **Rocker shaft bolt heads**: | * **Rocker shaft bolt heads**: | ||
| - | * These are very short bolts. Each has an O-ring behind it which needs to be replaced if leaking. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=578087)) | + | * These are very short bolts. Each has an O-ring behind it which needs to be replaced if leaking. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/79523-help-with-an-oil-leak?t=578087)) |
| - | * The seals may shrink when they are cold and leak then swell back up when the bike warms up and stop leaking. ((72Iron of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=578087)) | + | * The seals may shrink when they are cold and leak then swell back up when the bike warms up and stop leaking. ((72Iron of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/79523-help-with-an-oil-leak?t=578087)) |
| - | * If it is leaking on the side with the nuts (left side), you might be missing the thin washer that goes on the end of the shaft. ((RRB of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=578087)) \\ If it is leaking on the side with the slotted heads (or Allen heads), there is an O-ring at the end of the shaft to which the "screw" tightens down. \\ It may be that the O-ring is pinched or otherwise compromised. | + | * If it is leaking on the side with the nuts (left side), you might be missing the thin washer that goes on the end of the shaft. ((RRB of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/79523-help-with-an-oil-leak?t=578087)) \\ If it is leaking on the side with the slotted heads (or Allen heads), there is an O-ring at the end of the shaft to which the "screw" tightens down. \\ It may be that the O-ring is pinched or otherwise compromised. |
| * **Removing the screws**: | * **Removing the screws**: | ||
| * Tighten the nut on the opposite side of the rocker box before you loosen the nut on the carb side. \\ Unless they've been put on with red Loctite, they should just unscrew off. | * Tighten the nut on the opposite side of the rocker box before you loosen the nut on the carb side. \\ Unless they've been put on with red Loctite, they should just unscrew off. | ||
| - | * You can first try a wrench on the acorn nut side to remove the screw on the other side (one wrench on the acorn nut, another in the Allen bolt). ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=578087)) \\ Either the screw will come out or the acorn nut will start to come off (shaft will come out of the acorn nut). \\ If the acorn nut wants to come off, put it back and use an impact wrench on the screw. \\ **Only use an impact for removing the screws, not installing**. | + | * You can first try a wrench on the acorn nut side to remove the screw on the other side (one wrench on the acorn nut, another in the Allen bolt). ((IronMick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/79523-help-with-an-oil-leak?t=578087)) \\ Either the screw will come out or the acorn nut will start to come off (shaft will come out of the acorn nut). \\ If the acorn nut wants to come off, put it back and use an impact wrench on the screw. \\ **Only use an impact for removing the screws, not installing**. |
| * **Rocker box gaskets**. | * **Rocker box gaskets**. | ||
| - | * A symptom may be a rocker cover gasket leak but the original problem may be a simple exhaust leak. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2070585)) \\ These leaks are expelling very hot gas which can wreck the rocker cover gasket. \\ In general, rocker cover gasket leaks should not occur. They are a very simple part, between two easy to seal surfaces. \\ It's difficult to get a bad install. Be sure to correct the actual or original problem whatever it may be. | + | * A symptom may be a rocker cover gasket leak but the original problem may be a simple exhaust leak. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/194358-suspect-rocker-box-issue?t=2070585)) \\ These leaks are expelling very hot gas which can wreck the rocker cover gasket. \\ In general, rocker cover gasket leaks should not occur. They are a very simple part, between two easy to seal surfaces. \\ It's difficult to get a bad install. Be sure to correct the actual or original problem whatever it may be. |
| - | | Check / flatten box sealing surface. ((photo by Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=209347&page=8)) | Leaky front box gasket from exhaust heat. ((photo by sdsbassist of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2070585)) | Leaky O-ring on rocker arm shaft. ((photo by Antny of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1433074)) | | + | | Check / flatten box sealing surface. ((photo by Hopper of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/50355-and-yet-another-77-ground-up-rebuild/page8?t=209347&page=8)) | Leaky front box gasket from exhaust heat. ((photo by sdsbassist of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/194358-suspect-rocker-box-issue?t=2070585)) | Leaky O-ring on rocker arm shaft. ((photo by Antny of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-general-discussion-and-problems/133451-72-xlch-outer-primary-problems?t=1433074)) | |
| |{{:techtalk:ih:engmech:resurfacing_rocker_box_by_hopper.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:leaky_front_box_gasket_by_sdsbassist.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:leaky_rocker_shaft_bolt_by_antny.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |{{:techtalk:ih:engmech:resurfacing_rocker_box_by_hopper.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:leaky_front_box_gasket_by_sdsbassist.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:leaky_rocker_shaft_bolt_by_antny.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
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| * **Leaky rocker box oil line fittings**. | * **Leaky rocker box oil line fittings**. | ||
| - | * You may not have to replace any parts to fix a leak at the fittings. You can un-install the fittings, clean, inspect, re-install and see what happens. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1974660)) | + | * You may not have to replace any parts to fix a leak at the fittings. You can un-install the fittings, clean, inspect, re-install and see what happens. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/183535-earl-leak?t=1974660)) |
| - | * Note for re-install of the metal oil lines - The line is just long enough to be inserted a small amount at each end. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1974660)) \\ So insert at the top, then the bottom ensuring that it is more or less even top and bottom. Then, while keeping it from shifting, slide the rubbers into place. \\ And tighten them alternately, again keeping it from shifting. \\ Install the rubbers an inch or more from the line ends, then slip each line-end in place, and hold it there while sliding the rubbers into final position. \\ Tightening the nuts will seat the rubbers. Lightly grease the rubbers will help. | + | * Note for re-install of the metal oil lines - The line is just long enough to be inserted a small amount at each end. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/183535-earl-leak?t=1974660)) \\ So insert at the top, then the bottom ensuring that it is more or less even top and bottom. Then, while keeping it from shifting, slide the rubbers into place. \\ And tighten them alternately, again keeping it from shifting. \\ Install the rubbers an inch or more from the line ends, then slip each line-end in place, and hold it there while sliding the rubbers into final position. \\ Tightening the nuts will seat the rubbers. Lightly grease the rubbers will help. |
| * Keep an eye on which style seals you buy as replacements. | * Keep an eye on which style seals you buy as replacements. | ||
| - | * OEM is barrel shaped and some aftermarkets are a barreled with 45 degree cuts on the top and bottom. The 45's are no good. ((hcrashster of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1974660)) \\ Either a different polymer is used or you really need that full barrel shape to seal the oil line properly. | + | * OEM is barrel shaped and some aftermarkets are a barreled with 45 degree cuts on the top and bottom. The 45's are no good. ((hcrashster of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/183535-earl-leak?t=1974660)) \\ Either a different polymer is used or you really need that full barrel shape to seal the oil line properly. |
| - | | Leaky rocker box oil line fittings. ((photo by Ironshred of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1974660)) | | + | | Leaky rocker box oil line fittings. ((photo by Ironshred of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/183535-earl-leak?t=1974660)) | |
| |{{:techtalk:ih:oil:leaky_rocker_box_oil_line_by_ironshred.jpeg?direct&300|}}| | |{{:techtalk:ih:oil:leaky_rocker_box_oil_line_by_ironshred.jpeg?direct&300|}}| | ||
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| * **See** [[techtalk:ref:engmech04#why_oil_pukes_out_the_air_cleaner|Why Oil Pukes Out the Air Cleaner]] **in the Sportsterpedia**. | * **See** [[techtalk:ref:engmech04#why_oil_pukes_out_the_air_cleaner|Why Oil Pukes Out the Air Cleaner]] **in the Sportsterpedia**. | ||
| - | {{:techtalk:ih:oil:ac_puking_oil_on_85_xl_by_harleynoob.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by HarleyNoob of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1753147)) \\ | + | {{:techtalk:ih:oil:ac_puking_oil_on_85_xl_by_harleynoob.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by HarleyNoob of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/163127-1985-sportster-puking-oil-from-breather-randomly?t=1753147)) \\ |
| ===== Pushrod Tubes ===== | ===== Pushrod Tubes ===== | ||
| * **Verifying a pushrod tube leak and what portion**. | * **Verifying a pushrod tube leak and what portion**. | ||
| - | * Make a sandwich: ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2027963&page=3)) | + | * Make a sandwich: ((IronMick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/190246-can-t-stop-front-exhaust-pushrod-tube-leak/page3?t=2027963&page=3)) |
| * Paper towel → aluminum foil → paper towel. | * Paper towel → aluminum foil → paper towel. | ||
| * Carefully install it around the pushrod tube (top to bottom) and / or between it and the cylinder head and around the tappet block. | * Carefully install it around the pushrod tube (top to bottom) and / or between it and the cylinder head and around the tappet block. | ||
| * After it leaks you should be able to determine from which side the leak comes. | * After it leaks you should be able to determine from which side the leak comes. | ||
| * **Old / damaged / missing corks or O-rings can cause leaks**. | * **Old / damaged / missing corks or O-rings can cause leaks**. | ||
| - | * Rubber O-rings can have a tendency to shrink up over long periods of time. ((brianbbs67 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1927985)) | + | * Rubber O-rings can have a tendency to shrink up over long periods of time. ((brianbbs67 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/179430-tiny-oil-bubbles-leaking-from-tappet-block?t=1927985)) |
| * **Installation error of a pushrod tube or seals can cause a leak**. | * **Installation error of a pushrod tube or seals can cause a leak**. | ||
| * **Corks**: | * **Corks**: | ||
| - | * You can soak new corks overnight in either brake fluid, or power steering fluid to soften them. \\ That allows the tube end to seat much better than using dry corks. ((trappnman of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1894326)) | + | * You can soak new corks overnight in either brake fluid, or power steering fluid to soften them. \\ That allows the tube end to seat much better than using dry corks. ((trappnman of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/176542-getting-these-pushrod-tubes-leak-free?t=1894326)) |
| - | * Once the corks are in. ((trappnman of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2027963&page=3)) \\ Rotate the tube a little and take a screwdriver and give the bottom lip a small tap on 2 sides. You can visibly see it seat better. | + | * Once the corks are in. ((trappnman of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/190246-can-t-stop-front-exhaust-pushrod-tube-leak/page3?t=2027963&page=3)) \\ Rotate the tube a little and take a screwdriver and give the bottom lip a small tap on 2 sides. You can visibly see it seat better. |
| * Use 2 washers in middle if you think it's not tight enough. 2 washers over one is no different when putting in clips, so no worries. | * Use 2 washers in middle if you think it's not tight enough. 2 washers over one is no different when putting in clips, so no worries. | ||
| - | * You can get rubber seals instead of corks JP #433639 or blue silicone seals JP # 433638 ((trappnman of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1894326&page=2)) | + | * You can get rubber seals instead of corks JP #433639 or blue silicone seals JP # 433638 ((trappnman of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/176542-getting-these-pushrod-tubes-leak-free/page2?t=1894326&page=2)) |
| - | * Make sure you have a cork seal between the lower tube and the spring collar. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1904607&page=3)) \\ Oil drains down thru the pushrod covers and the washer protects the cork from being ruined by the metal spring. \\ Washer (6762B) - 11/16" x 29/32" x 1/32". | + | * Make sure you have a cork seal between the lower tube and the spring collar. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/177261-cork-pushrod-seals/page3?t=1904607&page=3)) \\ Oil drains down thru the pushrod covers and the washer protects the cork from being ruined by the metal spring. \\ Washer (6762B) - 11/16" x 29/32" x 1/32". |
| * **O-rings**: | * **O-rings**: | ||
| - | * The ID of replacement O-rings will effect the proper fitment just as much as the thickness of the rubber. \\ If the O-ring is too small ID and is stretched to put on, it will in effect, lessen the rubber thickness (OD) of it. ((Fridge of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1927985)) | + | * The ID of replacement O-rings will effect the proper fitment just as much as the thickness of the rubber. \\ If the O-ring is too small ID and is stretched to put on, it will in effect, lessen the rubber thickness (OD) of it. ((Fridge of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/179430-tiny-oil-bubbles-leaking-from-tappet-block?t=1927985)) |
| - | * Ensure that the O-ring that seats into the bottom of the rocker cover is a fat one compared to the others. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=512321)) \\ Looking in the parts book, the upper O-ring is the same as the lower ones. However, the ones that were in the James gasket kits have had a larger size as well. \\ It should be a tight enough fit that the pushrod tube has to be firmly pushed up into it and sticks there (flat blade screwdriver helps). | + | * Ensure that the O-ring that seats into the bottom of the rocker cover is a fat one compared to the others. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/73528-cork-vs-rubber-pushrod-tube-gaskets?t=512321)) \\ Looking in the parts book, the upper O-ring is the same as the lower ones. However, the ones that were in the James gasket kits have had a larger size as well. \\ It should be a tight enough fit that the pushrod tube has to be firmly pushed up into it and sticks there (flat blade screwdriver helps). |
| * **Tubes**: | * **Tubes**: | ||
| - | * Make sure you slide the top tube back up into the rocker box before putting the locking clip in place (makes a Hell of a leak). ((ericfreeman of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=512321)) | + | * Make sure you slide the top tube back up into the rocker box before putting the locking clip in place (makes a Hell of a leak). ((ericfreeman of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/73528-cork-vs-rubber-pushrod-tube-gaskets?t=512321)) |
| - | * If the end of the pushrod cover tubes have a step in them, they are the O-ring style and will not work with corks. ((ryder rick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=512321)) | + | * If the end of the pushrod cover tubes have a step in them, they are the O-ring style and will not work with corks. ((ryder rick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/73528-cork-vs-rubber-pushrod-tube-gaskets?t=512321)) |
| - | * The pushrod tube covers may not be the same for all years. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=512321)) \\ They are all flat on the bottom, but they are not all the same at the middle where they meet the spring keeper. \\ Some should have cork at that spot. | + | * The pushrod tube covers may not be the same for all years. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/73528-cork-vs-rubber-pushrod-tube-gaskets?t=512321)) \\ They are all flat on the bottom, but they are not all the same at the middle where they meet the spring keeper. \\ Some should have cork at that spot. |
| - | * If the flat lip of the push rod tube is not perfectly flat (a nick in it or it's bent) and not mating properly with the cork seal and rocker box. ((The Doctor71 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2027963)) \\ Remove the push rod tube and inspect the top lip / mating surface carefully. \\ Also when you put the pushrod covers back on, give them a bit of a turn both ways to 'set' them in place. | + | * If the flat lip of the push rod tube is not perfectly flat (a nick in it or it's bent) and not mating properly with the cork seal and rocker box. ((The Doctor71 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/190246-can-t-stop-front-exhaust-pushrod-tube-leak?t=2027963)) \\ Remove the push rod tube and inspect the top lip / mating surface carefully. \\ Also when you put the pushrod covers back on, give them a bit of a turn both ways to 'set' them in place. |
| - | * Also note that the schematic diagram in the parts book and in the FSM shows the tube upside down. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=512321)) \\ They should be all flat on the bottom (flat flange facing down, the angled flange facing up). | + | * Also note that the schematic diagram in the parts book and in the FSM shows the tube upside down. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/73528-cork-vs-rubber-pushrod-tube-gaskets?t=512321)) \\ They should be all flat on the bottom (flat flange facing down, the angled flange facing up). |
| - | * **Opening pushrod tubes without cleaning away the grit that collects at tappets guides/pushrod tubes is inviting trouble**. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1584382)) | + | * **Opening pushrod tubes without cleaning away the grit that collects at tappets guides/pushrod tubes is inviting trouble**. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/145946-mysteries-in-the-tappet-blocks-69-xlch?t=1584382)) |
| - | * A tiny piece of sand or grit left there can keep them from seating right. ((brianbbs67 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1904607&page=2)) | + | * A tiny piece of sand or grit left there can keep them from seating right. ((brianbbs67 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/177261-cork-pushrod-seals/page2?t=1904607&page=2)) |
| * **Restricted head drain holes**. | * **Restricted head drain holes**. | ||
| - | * The oil return that comes down through the barrel and into the crankcase can be blocked if the head gasket is installed wrong (flipped). ((fdny37 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1111804&page=5)) \\ Then oil is still being pumped up to the rocker boxes. But feed pressure would fill the rocker box then pushrod tubes and blow the seals. | + | * The oil return that comes down through the barrel and into the crankcase can be blocked if the head gasket is installed wrong (flipped). ((fdny37 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/115931-pushrods-full-of-oil/page5?t=1111804&page=5)) \\ Then oil is still being pumped up to the rocker boxes. But feed pressure would fill the rocker box then pushrod tubes and blow the seals. |
| * **Restricted tappet guide drain channel**. | * **Restricted tappet guide drain channel**. | ||
| * Oil from the rocker boxes drains down the pushrod tubes and enters holes in the tappet blocks to drain down into the gearcase. \\ Hot oil is thin and drains faster. Oil at ambient temperatures is thicker and drains slower. \\ However, the drains in the lifter blocks are small. \\ In checking the amount of oil holding in the tubes; \\ You may find that you'll see more oil holding just after shut down and less oil after the engine sits for a while. \\ And then, the drain channels can stop up sometimes. This backs up oil in the tubes and can cause a leak to form at the tube base. \\ It could be the gasket or sometimes particles that have lodged in the holes. \\ If you raise a tube and find excessive oil accumulating in the tube, the tappet block (76<) or lifter (77>) drain is not draining. | * Oil from the rocker boxes drains down the pushrod tubes and enters holes in the tappet blocks to drain down into the gearcase. \\ Hot oil is thin and drains faster. Oil at ambient temperatures is thicker and drains slower. \\ However, the drains in the lifter blocks are small. \\ In checking the amount of oil holding in the tubes; \\ You may find that you'll see more oil holding just after shut down and less oil after the engine sits for a while. \\ And then, the drain channels can stop up sometimes. This backs up oil in the tubes and can cause a leak to form at the tube base. \\ It could be the gasket or sometimes particles that have lodged in the holes. \\ If you raise a tube and find excessive oil accumulating in the tube, the tappet block (76<) or lifter (77>) drain is not draining. | ||
| - | * Try removing the tappet guide, clean / replace them and install new gaskets (or O-rings respectively). ((ironheadjunkie of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1379395)) | + | * Try removing the tappet guide, clean / replace them and install new gaskets (or O-rings respectively). ((ironheadjunkie of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/130686-excessive-oil-accumulating-in-pushrod-tube-74-xlh?t=1379395)) |
| - | * A puller is needed for 1976-earlier years as those guides are a press fit into the crankcase. \\ 1976-later years, ne puller needed, just wiggle it back and forth to get it loose, then carefully pry it up. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=706384&page=2)) | + | * A puller is needed for 1976-earlier years as those guides are a press fit into the crankcase. \\ 1976-later years, ne puller needed, just wiggle it back and forth to get it loose, then carefully pry it up. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/88573-tappet-guide-removal/page2?t=706384&page=2)) |
| - | * Sometimes just removing the lifter (from the block) may clear whatever may be lodged in there. ((The Doctor71 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2027963&page=2)) | + | * Sometimes just removing the lifter (from the block) may clear whatever may be lodged in there. ((The Doctor71 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/190246-can-t-stop-front-exhaust-pushrod-tube-leak/page2?t=2027963&page=2)) |
| * Some guides have one channel, some two, and there are some that have a spiral. | * Some guides have one channel, some two, and there are some that have a spiral. | ||
| * Over the course of the motors lifetime, there's no telling what year or type of guides they may be since one fits all. \\ But you do need to get it right, since the oil return thru the guide also lubricates the tappets. | * Over the course of the motors lifetime, there's no telling what year or type of guides they may be since one fits all. \\ But you do need to get it right, since the oil return thru the guide also lubricates the tappets. | ||
| - | * To remove them, some will tap the guides gently to rotate them a little to break the hold then just pull them out by hand. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1379395)) \\ It will then need a new seal or gasket under the tappet block. | + | * To remove them, some will tap the guides gently to rotate them a little to break the hold then just pull them out by hand. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/130686-excessive-oil-accumulating-in-pushrod-tube-74-xlh?t=1379395)) \\ It will then need a new seal or gasket under the tappet block. |
| - | * Fairly common with some jugs is the tappet guide hanging up on the cylinder fins when trying to remove it. ((ironheadjunkie of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1379395)) \\ You may need to clearance the base of the jug before you remove the tappet. \\ Alternately, if you can lift the guide high enough, you may be able to clean the drain channel with the tappet guide still in place. ((The Doctor71 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1379395)) \\ Try and use compressed air to blow down the drain channel. \\ | + | * Fairly common with some jugs is the tappet guide hanging up on the cylinder fins when trying to remove it. ((ironheadjunkie of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/130686-excessive-oil-accumulating-in-pushrod-tube-74-xlh?t=1379395)) \\ You may need to clearance the base of the jug before you remove the tappet. \\ Alternately, if you can lift the guide high enough, you may be able to clean the drain channel with the tappet guide still in place. ((The Doctor71 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/130686-excessive-oil-accumulating-in-pushrod-tube-74-xlh?t=1379395)) \\ Try and use compressed air to blow down the drain channel. \\ |
| * **Restricted lifter oil drain hole (77-up)**. | * **Restricted lifter oil drain hole (77-up)**. | ||
| - | * 77-up engines use lifters w/ (2).125" holes in each tappet along with the slot in the guide. ((chevelle of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1111804&page=3)) | + | * 77-up engines use lifters w/ (2).125" holes in each tappet along with the slot in the guide. ((chevelle of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/115931-pushrods-full-of-oil/page3?t=1111804&page=3)) |
| - | * Assuming the tube is installed correctly, then the lifter drain holes may not be draining back thru the lifter fast enough. ((The Doctor71 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2027963)) \\ And the push rod tube is backing up with oil 'til it leaks (aka the oil passage in the lifter is blocked (or partially blocked). | + | * Assuming the tube is installed correctly, then the lifter drain holes may not be draining back thru the lifter fast enough. ((The Doctor71 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/190246-can-t-stop-front-exhaust-pushrod-tube-leak?t=2027963)) \\ And the push rod tube is backing up with oil 'til it leaks (aka the oil passage in the lifter is blocked (or partially blocked). |
| * To test this theory, | * To test this theory, | ||
| * Open up all 4 push rod tubes & expose the lifters. | * Open up all 4 push rod tubes & expose the lifters. | ||
| Line 150: | Line 148: | ||
| * If this is it, you might be able to clear the blockage with some compressed air or just remove the lifter & see what's going on. | * If this is it, you might be able to clear the blockage with some compressed air or just remove the lifter & see what's going on. | ||
| * You can drill or ream the drain holes to a slightly larger size also. | * You can drill or ream the drain holes to a slightly larger size also. | ||
| - | * Caution: Make sure you remove all burrs and wash the lifters afterwards so no debris can destroy your engine. ((chevelle of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2027963&page=3)) | + | * Caution: Make sure you remove all burrs and wash the lifters afterwards so no debris can destroy your engine. ((chevelle of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/190246-can-t-stop-front-exhaust-pushrod-tube-leak/page3?t=2027963&page=3)) |
| - | * **At high RPM, the oil is flowing at a large volume, so you may notice a leak after sustained high rpm**. ((chevelle of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2027963&page=3)) | + | * **At high RPM, the oil is flowing at a large volume, so you may notice a leak after sustained high rpm**. ((chevelle of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/190246-can-t-stop-front-exhaust-pushrod-tube-leak/page3?t=2027963&page=3)) |
| * This where making the pushrod drains a little bigger may help. | * This where making the pushrod drains a little bigger may help. | ||
| * **Non sealing pushrod tubes can be a source of or a result from an imbalance of crankcase pressure**. | * **Non sealing pushrod tubes can be a source of or a result from an imbalance of crankcase pressure**. | ||
| - | * Tiny oil bubbles leaking from underneath tappet blocks is one sign of too much crankcase pressure. \\ It's possible to be weeping in the back and traveling around to the front. ((brianbbs67 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1927985)) | + | * Tiny oil bubbles leaking from underneath tappet blocks is one sign of too much crankcase pressure. \\ It's possible to be weeping in the back and traveling around to the front. ((brianbbs67 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/179430-tiny-oil-bubbles-leaking-from-tappet-block?t=1927985)) |
| * See [[techtalk:ih:oil06#crankcase_pressure_problems|Crankcase Pressure Problems]] below. | * See [[techtalk:ih:oil06#crankcase_pressure_problems|Crankcase Pressure Problems]] below. | ||
| - | * If 76-earlier tappets are installed in a motor with the 77-and later oil system, it could cause a leak. \\ In 77, the tappets had drain holes in them to allow for better drain down. ((DirtyCory of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1927985)) | + | * If 76-earlier tappets are installed in a motor with the 77-and later oil system, it could cause a leak. \\ In 77, the tappets had drain holes in them to allow for better drain down. ((DirtyCory of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/179430-tiny-oil-bubbles-leaking-from-tappet-block?t=1927985)) |
| - | | A restricted tappet guide drain channel \\ holding oil in tube with engine off. ((photo by The Doctor71 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1379395)) | Lower cork seals installed. ((photo by vivisix of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=323376&page=3)) | | + | | A restricted tappet guide drain channel \\ holding oil in tube with engine off. ((photo by The Doctor71 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/130686-excessive-oil-accumulating-in-pushrod-tube-74-xlh?t=1379395)) | Lower cork seals installed. ((photo by vivisix of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/59198-lost-tired-worn-out-running-issue/page3?t=323376&page=3)) | |
| |{{:techtalk:ih:oil:pushrod_tube_oil_leak_by_the_doctor71.jpg?direct&200|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:1973_pushrod_tube_cork_seals_by_vivisix.jpg?direct&350|}}| | |{{:techtalk:ih:oil:pushrod_tube_oil_leak_by_the_doctor71.jpg?direct&200|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:1973_pushrod_tube_cork_seals_by_vivisix.jpg?direct&350|}}| | ||
| - | | JIMS replacement tappet block with 1 straight and a couple spiral channels. ((photos by stavenironhead of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2027963&page=3)) || | + | | JIMS replacement tappet block with 1 straight and a couple spiral channels. ((photos by stavenironhead of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/190246-can-t-stop-front-exhaust-pushrod-tube-leak/page3?t=2027963&page=3)) || |
| |{{:techtalk:ih:oil:lifter_block_1_by_stavenironhead.jpg?direct&350|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:lifter_block_2_by_stavenironhead.jpg?direct&350|}}| | |{{:techtalk:ih:oil:lifter_block_1_by_stavenironhead.jpg?direct&350|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:oil:lifter_block_2_by_stavenironhead.jpg?direct&350|}}| | ||
| Line 193: | Line 191: | ||
| * **If you have an oil leak from anywhere, the oil tank is subject to having oil all over it**. | * **If you have an oil leak from anywhere, the oil tank is subject to having oil all over it**. | ||
| * It is an accumulation of spills from filling, blowback from engine gaskets / seals / breathers and road grunge. | * It is an accumulation of spills from filling, blowback from engine gaskets / seals / breathers and road grunge. | ||
| - | * **The best way to find out if the oil tank is leaking is to clean it up** (try some blue dawn and a nylon brush). \\ (and use some spray SOFT-N-DRI or talcum powder in the area) See [[start|Leaking with Engine Running]] below. | + | * **The best way to find out if the oil tank is leaking is to clean it up** (try some blue dawn and a nylon brush). \\ (and use some spray SOFT-N-DRI or talcum powder in the area) See [[techtalk:ih:oil06#leaking_with_engine_running_weeping_gaskets|Leaking with Engine Running]] below. |
| * **83-93 oil tanks are prone to cracking and leaking where the oil tank and battery tray are connected**. | * **83-93 oil tanks are prone to cracking and leaking where the oil tank and battery tray are connected**. | ||
| * Fractures were due to poorly supporting the weight of the battery. ((Four Speed of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1971026)) \\ Harley offered 62472-93A and 62482-93A oil tank upgrade kits for replacement (94-96 tank assembly). \\ However, the original oil tank can be reinforced and welded. | * Fractures were due to poorly supporting the weight of the battery. ((Four Speed of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1971026)) \\ Harley offered 62472-93A and 62482-93A oil tank upgrade kits for replacement (94-96 tank assembly). \\ However, the original oil tank can be reinforced and welded. | ||
| Line 202: | Line 200: | ||
| * Our bikes have 2 oil pumps. A supply pump (the skinny gear set) & a return pump (the thicker gears). ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1244538&page=2)) \\ The return pump has a larger flow than the supply pump. This is to make sure any oil that get pumped in definitely gets pumped back out. \\ If you watch the return oil as it goes back to the tank you will see it returns in "spurts". \\ The oil part of the spurts matches the amount that the feed is pulling from tank. \\ That's why the oil level in the tank remains the same while the bike is running. \\ The air part of the spurts is the extra cap of the return pump over the supply. \\ So the return would pressurize the tank because it's pumping this extra air back. \\ Air pressure in the tank is relieved thru the vent line back to the camcase where it came from in the 1st place. \\ That's why the vent line is always the highest one on the tank so it's above the oil level. \\ If it was below the oil level, oil would be forced into the camcase causing wetsumping. | * Our bikes have 2 oil pumps. A supply pump (the skinny gear set) & a return pump (the thicker gears). ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1244538&page=2)) \\ The return pump has a larger flow than the supply pump. This is to make sure any oil that get pumped in definitely gets pumped back out. \\ If you watch the return oil as it goes back to the tank you will see it returns in "spurts". \\ The oil part of the spurts matches the amount that the feed is pulling from tank. \\ That's why the oil level in the tank remains the same while the bike is running. \\ The air part of the spurts is the extra cap of the return pump over the supply. \\ So the return would pressurize the tank because it's pumping this extra air back. \\ Air pressure in the tank is relieved thru the vent line back to the camcase where it came from in the 1st place. \\ That's why the vent line is always the highest one on the tank so it's above the oil level. \\ If it was below the oil level, oil would be forced into the camcase causing wetsumping. | ||
| * Oil carry over may occur while driving the vehicle at highway speeds. The amount of carry over is directly related to the amount of restriction. ((HD Tech Tips dated November 8, 1985)) \\ More restriction equals more carryover. \\ In most cases the restriction is minor and translates to a small amount of carry over, which if left alone creates a bothersome mess. \\ Start looking for pinched hoses or a restrictive oil filter. \\ Pull the line off at the tank and make sure you can blow through it into the cam gear case. \\ Then blow through the oil tank fitting with the lid off and make sure that path is clear. | * Oil carry over may occur while driving the vehicle at highway speeds. The amount of carry over is directly related to the amount of restriction. ((HD Tech Tips dated November 8, 1985)) \\ More restriction equals more carryover. \\ In most cases the restriction is minor and translates to a small amount of carry over, which if left alone creates a bothersome mess. \\ Start looking for pinched hoses or a restrictive oil filter. \\ Pull the line off at the tank and make sure you can blow through it into the cam gear case. \\ Then blow through the oil tank fitting with the lid off and make sure that path is clear. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===== Chain Oiler (57-76) ===== | ||
| + | |||
| + | The chain oiler is a designed leak to keep the chain from rusting up. \\ | ||
| + | Most will either plug the oiler fitting with a bolt / screw or remove the oiler fitting and install an 1/8"x27 NPT plug there and oil the chain by other means. \\ | ||
| ===== Cam Cover or Primary Cover ===== | ===== Cam Cover or Primary Cover ===== | ||
| Line 237: | Line 240: | ||
| | Pulling oil seal gently with small bicycle tire iron. ((photo by Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=209347&page=11)) | | | Pulling oil seal gently with small bicycle tire iron. ((photo by Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=209347&page=11)) | | ||
| |{{:techtalk:ih:oil:removing_cam_seal_in_cover_by_hopper.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |{{:techtalk:ih:oil:removing_cam_seal_in_cover_by_hopper.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| - | ===== Cam Gear Oiler ('85 only) ===== | ||
| - | |||
| - | Starting with crankcase number 785 303 002, manufactured after October 29, 1984, a cam gear oiler was installed in the gearcase ceiling. ((HD TSB #M-899 dated November 30, 1984)) \\ | ||
| - | The cam gear oiler directs oil from the top end oil passage to the gear mesh between first and second gears and third and fourth gears. \\ | ||
| - | Direct lubrication of the gear teeth allows tighter gear fitment. Gear backlash and noise are reduced. \\ | ||
| - | |||
| - | * The oiler tube has restricted orifices to spray the gears and still retain main oil feed pressure from whence the oil came (top oil feed galley). | ||
| - | * There is an O-ring on the oiler tube nipple that is pressed into the ceiling of the gearcase. | ||
| - | * If the O-ring fails to seal the oiler tube, feed oil pressure to the top end could be low. \\ You probably wouldn't see a leak as it would be inside the gearcase. | ||
| - | |||
| - | |||
| - | |Cam oiler tube hole in gearcase. ((photo by Iron Mike of the XLFORUM, labeled by Hippysmack http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1750617&page=116)) | Cam gear oiler installed. ((photo by iNSaNeSHaNe of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1750617&page=122)) | | ||
| - | |{{:techtalk:ih:engmech:1985_cam_gear_oiler_gearcase_by_iron_mike.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:engmech:1985_cam_gear_oiler_by_insaneshane.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| ===== Breather Vent / Tube ===== | ===== Breather Vent / Tube ===== | ||
| Line 273: | Line 263: | ||
| - Driving at steady highway speeds? See [[techtalk:ref:oil10|Click here for Wet Sumping]] at high RPM. | - Driving at steady highway speeds? See [[techtalk:ref:oil10|Click here for Wet Sumping]] at high RPM. | ||
| - After the bike's been sitting for a couple of days and you start it up? See [[techtalk:ref:oil10#sit_sumpimg|Click here for Sit Sumping]]. | - After the bike's been sitting for a couple of days and you start it up? See [[techtalk:ref:oil10#sit_sumpimg|Click here for Sit Sumping]]. | ||
| - | - Is the oil tank cap leaking or popping off? See [[techtalk:ref:oil01#overfilling_the_oil_tank|Overfilling the Oil Tank]] and [[techtalk:ref:oil04#oil_tank_pressure|Oil Tank Pressure]] in the Sportsterpedia. | + | - Is the oil tank cap leaking or popping off? See [[techtalk:ref:oil01#overfilling_the_oil_tank|Overfilling the Oil Tank]] and [[techtalk:ref:oil20|Oil Tank Pressure]] in the Sportsterpedia. |
| - **Clean the affected area and ride or run the bike and reproduce the problem with the breather hose in a baby bottle (or other) test catch can** [[techtalk:ref:engmech04?s[]=catch&s[]=can#breather_catch_can_test_for_oil_leaks_out_the_vent|as described here]]. \\ This will help you better understand the amount of carryover you're dealing with. \\ | - **Clean the affected area and ride or run the bike and reproduce the problem with the breather hose in a baby bottle (or other) test catch can** [[techtalk:ref:engmech04?s[]=catch&s[]=can#breather_catch_can_test_for_oil_leaks_out_the_vent|as described here]]. \\ This will help you better understand the amount of carryover you're dealing with. \\ | ||
| - **Start the diagnostics and separate the systems qualifying each one as you go**. | - **Start the diagnostics and separate the systems qualifying each one as you go**. | ||
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| ===== Timing Inspection Plug / Drain Plugs ===== | ===== Timing Inspection Plug / Drain Plugs ===== | ||
| - | * These have been common areas for an oil leaks. | + | * **These have been common areas for an oil leaks**. |
| * Over-torque during installation and heat / expansion during use seems to be the primary cause of distorting the threads. | * Over-torque during installation and heat / expansion during use seems to be the primary cause of distorting the threads. | ||
| - | * [[techtalk:ref:engmech01a#timing_inspection_hole_and_plug_-_sealing_and_thread_repair|Click here]] for Timing Inspection Hole and Plug - Sealing and Thread Repair. | + | * Look for stripped threads or fixes by the PO that may not have sealed properly. |
| + | * **The 57-76 (only) primary drain plug is the one most will say DO NOT Touch unless ir is already leaking**. | ||
| + | * This is due to it's location being very near the case seam. | ||
| + | * See [[techtalk:ref:oil01#sportster_drain_plugs_explained|Sportster Drain Plugs Explained]] for more information regarding drain plugs for various year models. | ||
| + | * **Repair**. (see these links in the Sportsterpedia) | ||
| + | * [[techtalk:ref:engmech01a|Timing Inspection Hole and Plug - Sealing and Thread Repair]] | ||
| + | * [[techtalk:ref:engmech01d|Drain Plug Sealing and Temporary Fixes]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | | On 57-76 engines, look for a crack at the primary drain plug. ((photo by Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=806833&highlight=drilling+tapping+drain&page=2)) ((photo by ss396 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1864035&highlight=Ironhead+Crankcase+Drain+Plug)) || | ||
| + | |{{techtalk:ih:oil:ih_drain_plugs_by_shadowdog500.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ih:oil:ih_oil_drain_plug_2_by_ss396.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| ===== Clutch Cable or Connection to the Primary Cover ===== | ===== Clutch Cable or Connection to the Primary Cover ===== | ||
| Line 404: | Line 403: | ||
| * Check that the surface where the seal runs on your drive sprocket isn't rough. ((russzx6 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1477118&page=2)) They can be rough from new and will chew a seal up in no time. \\ Also put a little sealant on the splines when you put the sprocket on. | * Check that the surface where the seal runs on your drive sprocket isn't rough. ((russzx6 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1477118&page=2)) They can be rough from new and will chew a seal up in no time. \\ Also put a little sealant on the splines when you put the sprocket on. | ||
| * **Welch plug**. | * **Welch plug**. | ||
| - | * The welch plug for the shift fork shaft hole can leak. | + | * The welch plug for the shift fork shaft hole can leak. ((mrmom9r of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1477118&page=2)) |
| - | * This hole supports the outer end of the shaft that the shift forks ride on and a small plug is pressed in the hole on the outside of the case. \\ Very common leak, sometimes the plug is knocked out by accident during trans. assembly. Sometimes they just weep on their own. | + | * This hole supports the outer end of the shaft that the shift forks ride on and a small plug is pressed in the hole on the outside of the case. \\ Very common leak, sometimes the plug is knocked out by accident during trans. assembly. Sometimes they just weep on their own. \\ It's located at about 4 o'clock from the mainshaft yet still hidden behind the sprocket. You can use JB Weld if the plug is still present - replace the plug if it's not present. |
| - | + | ||
| - | It's located at about 4 o'clock from the mainshaft yet still hidden behind the sprocket. JB Weld if the plug is still present - replace plug if not present. | + | |
| | Oiler hole behind seal is blocked off by the seal. ((photo by Ironhead_Ed of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1477118)) | | | Oiler hole behind seal is blocked off by the seal. ((photo by Ironhead_Ed of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1477118)) | | ||
| Line 447: | Line 444: | ||
| * **Engine breather valves**. | * **Engine breather valves**. | ||
| * 77-up: | * 77-up: | ||
| - | * These are often thought of as being akin auto PCV valves although the construction is different. \\ 77-78 had a spring load disc valve, 79-E82 had a reed valve and L82-up had a rubber flap (known as an umbrella valve). \\ Either are installed in a contained compartment to separate oil / air mist. \\ The oil is directed back into the engine and the air exits the engine thru breather vent(s), (1) 86-90 and (2) 91-up. | + | * These are often thought of as being akin to auto PCV valves although the construction is different. \\ 77-78 had a spring load disc valve, 79-E82 had a reed valve and L82-up had a rubber flap (known as an umbrella valve). \\ Either are installed in a contained compartment to separate oil / air mist. \\ The oil is directed back into the engine and the air exits the engine thru breather vent(s), (1) 86-90 and (2) 91-up. |
| * Worn or non functioning breather valve(s) will not react to engine RPM as fast as newer one(s). | * Worn or non functioning breather valve(s) will not react to engine RPM as fast as newer one(s). | ||
| * They can cause a glob of oil to puke out the vent(s). | * They can cause a glob of oil to puke out the vent(s). | ||
| * They can cause a buildup of vacuum in the crankcase that pushes and pulls on gaskets and seals causing them to leak oil and blow out seals. | * They can cause a buildup of vacuum in the crankcase that pushes and pulls on gaskets and seals causing them to leak oil and blow out seals. | ||
| + | * Gaskets, seals, the case seam and many other leaks often are a result of high pressure swings from positive to negative pressure changes. | ||
| + | * In 57-76 engines, the breather gear not timed correctly or wetsumping should checked off the list. | ||
| + | * 77-up engines, a non functioning breather valve is usually the first suspect of these problems. | ||
| * They can cause a thicker oil condition (air and oil froth or bubbling) making oil scavenging more tiresome for the oil pump = more engine heat. | * They can cause a thicker oil condition (air and oil froth or bubbling) making oil scavenging more tiresome for the oil pump = more engine heat. | ||
| * **In a perfect world, you would only have a slight oil mist coming out of the crankcase breather**. \\ (now routed into the air cleaner, keeping the E.P.A. happy by depositing the oil back into the engine instead of dripping on the ground). | * **In a perfect world, you would only have a slight oil mist coming out of the crankcase breather**. \\ (now routed into the air cleaner, keeping the E.P.A. happy by depositing the oil back into the engine instead of dripping on the ground). | ||
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| Blow on the hose end to make sure you can push air thru it. Do not used compressed air as that can damage the sprocket shaft seal. \\ | Blow on the hose end to make sure you can push air thru it. Do not used compressed air as that can damage the sprocket shaft seal. \\ | ||
| Reroute the hose if it is showing a kink in placement or replace it if you can't blow through it. \\ | Reroute the hose if it is showing a kink in placement or replace it if you can't blow through it. \\ | ||
| + | You can also take off the primary chain inspection cap and blow air into the primary compartment. \\ | ||
| + | You should hear and feel the air come out of the inspection hole and with the cap off, you are not pressurizing anything too much. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=944018&page=2)) \\ | ||
| There should be no sags in the hose between the attachment to the engine and the open end of the hose. \\ | There should be no sags in the hose between the attachment to the engine and the open end of the hose. \\ | ||
| The hose should route up from the engine and loop down open ended to allow air to escape and oil to separate from the air and drop back down into the tranny compartment. \\ | The hose should route up from the engine and loop down open ended to allow air to escape and oil to separate from the air and drop back down into the tranny compartment. \\ | ||
