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--- techtalk:ref:wheels06 [2021/02/07 02:46]
hippysmack [Bleeder Screw Issues]
+++ techtalk:ref:wheels06 [2024/01/25 04:03] (current)
hippysmack
@@ Line 2: / Line 2: @@
 ====== REF: Wheels, Brakes & Tires ======
 ====== Bleeding the Brake Lines ======
+This page consists of many different means and methods to bleed the brake system and perspective advice. \\
+All will work some of the time and none will work some of the time. And what works for one person doesn't work for the next either. \\
-====== Bleeding The Brake System By The Book ======
+The right way is the way that works for you! \\
+One way seems to work for some but not for others and having several options gives a person versatility. \\
+However, your main tool when bleeding brakes is patience. \\
+\\
+====== Bleeding The Brake System By The Book ======
 **Note on potential brake fluid leaks**: \\
 model brake bleeder screws can retain fluid on the threads and in the bleeder bore which can seep out giving the impression there is a brake fluid leak. ((HD Tech Tip #51 dated December 1999)) \\
@@ Line 15: / Line 22: @@
 Residual fluid will be removed during normal washings. If brake fluid re-appears, diagnose the cause. \\
 If fluid re-appears at the caliper seam or mounting bolts, it may indicate the crossover seals are leaking. \\ Disassemble and repair the caliper using the procedures in the appropriate FSM. \\
 ==== Notes: ====
     * When checking the relief port operation:
       * The 2000 FSM says to check the relief port after bleeding the system. ((2000 HD XLH FSM pg 2-57))
@@ Line 24: / Line 31: @@
 ==== When You Should Bleed The System ====
   - Bleed the hydraulic brake system anytime a brake line, M/C or caliper has been opened.
   - Whenever the brake pedal or lever operation feels spongy.
 ==== Before Bleeding ====
 Arrange for the master cylinder to be in a level position by standing the bike upright (off the kickstand).
 ==== Manually Bleeding ====
   - Install the end of a length of plastic tubing over the caliper bleeder valve. Place the free end of the tube in a clean container.
   - Add new brake fluid to M/C until the fluid level is 1/8” (3.2mm) from the top.
@@ Line 50: / Line 55: @@
 ==== Bleeding ABS Brake System ====
-The trick with ABS is when bleeding the fluid, a scan tool is needed to activate the ABS pumps to bleed properly. ((decman of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2003960)) \\
+The trick with ABS is when bleeding the fluid, a scan tool is needed to activate the ABS pumps to bleed properly. ((decman of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/187728-changing-brake-pads-on-abs-bikes?t=2003960)) \\
 Daytona Twin Tec Twin Scan II and III can be used for that. \\
 When changing the pads, only compress the pistons enough for the new pads. \\
 Remove some fluid before doing that. \\
 Also careful with the ABS wheel sensors / wires when removing the calipers. \\
 ====== Bleeding Methods from XLFORUM Members ======
 See also [[techtalk:ref:wheels06a|An Exercise in Bleeding the Brake System]] \\
-There are many methods of bleeding brakes from XLFORUM members as outlined below. \\
-All will work some of the time and none will work some of the time. \\
-What works for one person doesn't work for the next either. \\
-The right way is the way that works for you!
 ====== Reverse Bleeding Thru the Calipers ======
 ===== Using a Syringe =====
 The key to this method is a slow push from the caliper to the master cylinder. \\
-Too fast and you spit brake fluid all over the bike and the floor. \\
+Too fast and you spit brake fluid all over the bike and the floor due to exerting higher pressure into the line. \\
-The handle end of the master cylinder must be higher than the hose end so the air bubbles will move to the relief port of the master cylinder. ((ryder rick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1025390&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe)) \\
+It may be hard to push the syringe plunger especially if pushing hard. ((Hippysmack of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/204454-reverse-bleed-question#post4596184)) \\
-You can also use a squirt type oil can with some rubber tubing on the spout slipped over the cracked-open bleeder. ((chopfather of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33235&page=3)) \\
+The hole in the MC is smaller than the hose and you'll be pushing fluid uphill from the bleeder screw thru the small orifice in the master cylinder. \\
+This creates back pressure on the line down to the syringe from that hole. \\
+And that is where the pressure comes from (back pressure due to the smaller outlet ID. \\
+The faster / harder you push, the harder it's going to be to move the syringe. But it will work as many people do use this method. \\
+Likewise, the slower you push, the easier it should be to move the fluid (not to say it will be easy though, depending on hand strength). \\
+The handle end of the master cylinder must be higher than the hose end so the air bubbles will move to the relief port of the master cylinder. ((ryder rick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/109840-bleeding-front-brake?t=1025390&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe)) \\
+You can also use a squirt type oil can with some rubber tubing on the spout slipped over the cracked-open bleeder. ((chopfather of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-photos-videos/20061-bleeding-brakes/page3?t=33235&page=3)) \\
 Or, you can use a turkey basting syringe and a foot of rubber hose.
-  - Discard the needle from the syringe, remove lid from master cylinder and re-set it on top. \\ It must be off of course, but the master cylinder must be covered to prevent the fluid from squirting 10' across the shop. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1489822&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe))
+  - Discard the needle from the syringe, remove lid from master cylinder and re-set it on top. \\ It must be off of course, but the master cylinder must be covered to prevent the fluid from squirting 10' across the shop. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/137228-the-right-way-to-flush-brake-lines?t=1489822&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe))
-  - Attach a short clear plastic tube to the end of the syringe. \\ Best to use a tube that is "too small" in diameter. \\ This is important to get a really tight seal on the bleeder to the point you have to force it onto the bleeder with needle nose pliers. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1489822&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe))
+  - Attach a short clear plastic tube to the end of the syringe. \\ Best to use a tube that is "too small" in diameter. \\ This is important to get a really tight seal on the bleeder to the point you have to force it onto the bleeder with needle nose pliers. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/137228-the-right-way-to-flush-brake-lines?t=1489822&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe))
-  - Use the syringe to empty the master cylinder and discard this fluid. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1489822&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe))
+  - Use the syringe to empty the master cylinder and discard this fluid. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/137228-the-right-way-to-flush-brake-lines?t=1489822&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe))
-  - Fill the syringe with new brake fluid and let stand for 5 minutes or so for the bubbles to rise out of the syringe / tube. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1489822&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe))
+  - Fill the syringe with new brake fluid and let stand for 5 minutes or so for the bubbles to rise out of the syringe / tube. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/137228-the-right-way-to-flush-brake-lines?t=1489822&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe))
-  - Attach to bleeder, hold it upright and fiddle with the tube until air has risen into syringe. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1489822&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe))
+  - Attach to bleeder, hold it upright and fiddle with the tube until air has risen into syringe. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/137228-the-right-way-to-flush-brake-lines?t=1489822&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe))
-  - Loosen the bleeder and slowly squeeze the fluid through. \\ Do not release pressure on the syringe without tightening the bleeder. \\ Or some fluid and possibly some air may get drawn back. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1489822&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe))
+  - Loosen the bleeder and slowly squeeze the fluid through. \\ Do not release pressure on the syringe without tightening the bleeder. \\ Or some fluid and possibly some air may get drawn back. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/137228-the-right-way-to-flush-brake-lines?t=1489822&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe))
 Using 30ML syringes (or anything smaller than 60ML), \\
-You'll have to push fluid at least two separate times to get new fluid / air from the bottom to the M/C. ((TheForce of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/archive/index.php/t-50864.html)) \\
+You'll have to push fluid at least two separate times to get new fluid / air from the bottom to the M/C. ((TheForce of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/30549-question-on-bleeding-brakes-w-syringe)) \\
   - Draw in a 30 ML's of brake fluid into the syringe and cover the master cylinder with a rag.
@@ Line 90: / Line 95: @@
   - Lightly pump the M/C a few times and hold.
   - Open the bleed valve and repeat until you feel a good strong push.
 ===== Using a Vacuum Pump =====
+  * You can use a vacuum pump to reverse bleed fluid from a jar, up the brake line and into caliper. ((Matt of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/28453-is-the-mighty-vac-worth-the-40-bucks-for-brake-bleeding?t=47150))
-  * You can use a vacuum pump to reverse bleed fluid from a jar, up the brake line and into caliper. ((Matt of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=47150))
 ====== Force Bleeding Thru the Bleeder Screw ======
@@ Line 98: / Line 103: @@
 ===== Using a Hose and a Jar =====
+  * Get a small rubber hose like for the windshield washer on your car about a foot long. \\ You may need to heat it to get it over bleeder valve tip. \\ Put it on the bleeder valve and place the other end in a jar submerged in brake fluid. \\ You can use a jar with a lid and punch a hole the size of the hose in the lid. \\ This keeps the hose from coming out the fluid in the jar. \\ As you pump the brake and let off, the only thing it can pull back is brake fluid. \\ The air goes out the fluid in the jar. \\ Do this awhile and you'll see no more air bubbles coming from the jar. \\ Close bleeder and your good to go. \\ Make sure to not let the master cylinder go dry while doing this. ((ezmerf of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-general-discussion-and-problems/112336-can-t-bleed-the-rear-brake-keep-getting-air-bubbles/page2?t=1062732&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe&page=2)) \\
-  * Get a small rubber hose like for the windshield washer on your car about a foot long. \\ You may need to heat it to get it over bleeder valve tip. \\ Put it on the bleeder valve and place the other end in a jar submerged in brake fluid. \\ You can use a jar with a lid and punch a hole the size of the hose in the lid. \\ This keeps the hose from coming out the fluid in the jar. \\ As you pump the brake and let off, the only thing it can pull back is brake fluid. \\ The air goes out the fluid in the jar. \\ Do this awhile and you'll see no more air bubbles coming from the jar. \\ Close bleeder and your good to go. \\ Make sure to not let the master cylinder go dry while doing this. ((ezmerf of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1062732&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe&page=2)) \\
+Below, the tube is an automotive shop one-way bleeder set up, but it goes inside the plastic bottle with a small hole in the lid. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/50355-and-yet-another-77-ground-up-rebuild/page6?t=209347&highlight=float+level&page=6)) \\
-Below, the tube is an automotive shop one-way bleeder set up, but it goes inside the plastic bottle with a small hole in the lid. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=209347&highlight=float+level&page=6)) \\
 So when the lid is screwed on, even if you knock the bottle over, brake fluid stays inside. \\
 The wire hook is to hang the bottle on the fender etc. and it stays out of harm's way. \\
 The clothes peg and tag on the bleed hose is to put the hose in the upwards position from the bleed nipple for good air bleed-out. \\
-|  Milk jug and a hose. ((photo by Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=209347&highlight=float+level&page=6))  |
+|  Milk jug and a hose. ((photo by Hopper of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/50355-and-yet-another-77-ground-up-rebuild/page6?t=209347&highlight=float+level&page=6))  |
 |{{:techtalk:ref:wheels:brake_bleeding_system_by_hopper.jpg?direct&300|}}|
 ===== Using Gravity Assist =====
-If you're bleeding air; ((Hippysmack of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2072934)) \\
+If you're bleeding air; ((Hippysmack of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/196411-bleeding-rear-brakes-and-adjustment-1985?t=2072934)) \\
 You can use a clear hose on the end of the bleeder screw (hung high) and you can see exactly what's coming out the brake system. \\
 This gives confirmation of the presence of air / debris as well as positive reinforcement that the air is being expelled. \\
@@ Line 169: / Line 174: @@
 ===== Using the Finger Method =====
+  * First, top off the master cylinder and then remove the bleed screw completely. ((rick szymanski of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-intake-and-exhaust/sportster-motorcycle-air-intake-carburetor-efi-fuel-and-exhaust/132514-how-to-bleed-the-front-duel-disk-brakes?t=1417991&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe))
-  * First, top off the master cylinder and then remove the bleed screw completely. ((rick szymanski of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1417991&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe))
   * Plug the bleed screw hole with your finger tightly.
   * Have a friend or you can do it yourself, one at a time.
   * Squeeze the brake while holding tightly over the bleed hole.
   * The fluid and air will push past your finger and seal immediately when the brake is released.
-    * Your finger will let pressure spray out, but will not let air get sucked back in. ((dabronco of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=47150&page=2))
+    * Your finger will let pressure spray out, but will not let air get sucked back in. ((dabronco of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/28453-is-the-mighty-vac-worth-the-40-bucks-for-brake-bleeding/page2?t=47150&page=2))
   * It's a lot easier and faster than the opening and closing a bleed screw.
   * You can do dual calipers at once this way if you have a helper.
-  * Once you have a solid stream of fluid, you are fine. ((rick szymanski of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1417991&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe))
+  * Once you have a solid stream of fluid, you are fine. ((rick szymanski of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-intake-and-exhaust/sportster-motorcycle-air-intake-carburetor-efi-fuel-and-exhaust/132514-how-to-bleed-the-front-duel-disk-brakes?t=1417991&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe))
   * This is exactly what Speed Bleeders do. They take the place of and act the same as your finger would. ((Hippysmack))
 ===== Using Speed Bleeders =====
-  * Swap your bleeder screw out for a [[http://www.speedbleeder.com/|Speed Bleeder®]]. (('79 Supercharged Fuel Inj of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1188401&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe&page=2)) \\ It is very simple to install:
+  * Swap your bleeder screw out for a [[http://www.speedbleeder.com/|Speed Bleeder®]]. (('79 Supercharged Fuel Inj of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/121410-bleeding-front-brake/page2?t=1188401&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe&page=2)) \\ It is very simple to install:
   - Simply clean the area around the old bleeder screw so that no dirt or contaminants can get into the brake system.
   - Remove the old bleeder screw and discard.
@@ Line 190: / Line 194: @@
   * After bubble-free fluid comes out of the Speed Bleeder screw, close the bleeder until it seats.
   * Proceed to the next caliper until all are bled.
-  * The Speed Bleeder screw has a check valve inside so it can't suck air at the bottom. They're cheap too! ((oldnavy of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1025390&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe))
+  * The Speed Bleeder screw has a check valve inside so it can't suck air at the bottom. They're cheap too! ((oldnavy of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/109840-bleeding-front-brake?t=1025390&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe))
-Speed bleeder part numbers by manufacturer. ((IXL2Relax of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=15444&page=5))
+Speed bleeder part numbers by manufacturer. ((IXL2Relax of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/9890-speedbleeders/page5?t=15444&page=5))
 |Brand|Material|Size|Part#|Length|Notes|
 |Russell Brand Speed Bleeders|Stainless Steel|1/4-28|R40525|  ?  |HD (44179-58)|
@@ Line 239: / Line 243: @@
 ====== Vacuum Bleeding ======
-You can get an inexpensive vacuum bleeder at most auto parts stores. ((stealthammer of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=791904)) \\
+You can get an inexpensive vacuum bleeder at most auto parts stores. ((stealthammer of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/95063-help-q-re-replacing-fluid-after-installing-brake-line?t=791904)) \\
-Basically, you suck the fluid out of the system's hoses, calipers, and master cylinder using a small hand held vacuum pump (known brand: Mighty Vac). ((Joebug of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5707568&highlight=mighty+vac#post5707568)) \\
+Basically, you suck the fluid out of the system's hoses, calipers, and master cylinder using a small hand held vacuum pump (known brand: Mighty Vac). ((Joebug of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/195114-brake-upgrade-can-t-bleed/page2?highlight=mighty+vac#post4244079)) \\
 You draw all the air out with the brake fluid. \\
 But it doesn't always work when tiny air bubbles are trapped in crevices etc. inside the internals of the master cylinder. \\
-As in the case when using DOT 5 brake fluid. ((DIESEL of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=91538&page=2)) \\
+As in the case when using DOT 5 brake fluid. ((DIESEL of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/40848-bleeding-the-rear-brake/page2?t=91538&page=2)) \\
 DOT 5 is silicon based and it requires patients when using a vacuum bleeder. \\
 It may frustrate you more than anything if it sucks too hard (creating air bubbles). \\
-In speaking of too much vacuum, here is a homemade bleeding system using a vacuum cleaner and a canister. ((photo by Bob F of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1857463&page=2)) \\
+In speaking of too much vacuum, here is a homemade bleeding system using a vacuum cleaner and a canister. ((photo by Bob F of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/173094-what-tool-works-on-brake-caliper-mounting-screw/page2?t=1857463&page=2)) \\
 {{:techtalk:ref:tools:homemade_brake_bleeding_system_by_bob_f.jpg?direct&300|}}
-===== Mighty Vac =====
-The Mighty-Vac's big point is assisting in clearing brakes lines of air bubbles, in lines that have high spots which air migrates to. ((Gone of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=47150)) \\
+===== Mighty Vac =====
+The Mighty-Vac's big point is assisting in clearing brakes lines of air bubbles, in lines that have high spots which air migrates to. ((Gone of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/28453-is-the-mighty-vac-worth-the-40-bucks-for-brake-bleeding?t=47150)) \\
 If the system is void of those problem areas, a Mighty-Vac is not likely to work any better.
@@ Line 268: / Line 272: @@
   * **Apply vacuum**.
     * It should only take about 8 to 10 pumps or so to get up to over 20 psi and hold.
-      * Low vacuum is best. Too much and you pull air past the seals and it just looks like the air is never going to quit (because it isn't). ((Wedge of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2071413&highlight=mighty+vac)) \\
+      * Low vacuum is best. Too much and you pull air past the seals and it just looks like the air is never going to quit (because it isn't). ((Wedge of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/195114-brake-upgrade-can-t-bleed?t=2071413&highlight=mighty+vac)) \\
-    * Open the bleeder (1/4 turn or so) and the air and fluid will pull right through. ((Shu of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=791904&page=3))
+    * Open the bleeder (1/4 turn or so) and the air and fluid will pull right through. ((Shu of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/95063-help-q-re-replacing-fluid-after-installing-brake-line/page3?t=791904&page=3))
-    * Keep vacuum until it's a steady stream of fluid, then close it off. ((rick szymanski of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1417991&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe)) \\ Make sure to maintain a vacuum or it could let air back in. ((baka1969 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1697062))
+    * Keep vacuum until it's a steady stream of fluid, then close it off. ((rick szymanski of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-intake-and-exhaust/sportster-motorcycle-air-intake-carburetor-efi-fuel-and-exhaust/132514-how-to-bleed-the-front-duel-disk-brakes?t=1417991&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe)) \\ Make sure to maintain a vacuum or it could let air back in. ((baka1969 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/158546-no-front-brake-pressure?t=1697062))
     * This will still take several tries until you get fluid. \\ Make sure you keep an eye on the bowl and don't let the fluid get too low or you will start to suck air. \\ Keep repeating until you on longer see any bubbles in the fluid line into the mightvac.
   * Once you get fluid, close bleeder, top off the master cylinder, put cover the back on and try to pump the brake pedal.
-  * When you get pedal, then bleed manually to ensure that all air has escaped. ((XLFREAK of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1062732&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe&page=4))
+  * When you get pedal, then bleed manually to ensure that all air has escaped. ((XLFREAK of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-general-discussion-and-problems/112336-can-t-bleed-the-rear-brake-keep-getting-air-bubbles/page4?t=1062732&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe&page=4))
   * If you apply vacuum and can not build it, then you have a leak somewhere in the system that must be repaired.
 [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTySPh9xXJs|Here is a video on it also]] \\
-|Mighty Vac for sucking brake fluid from the master cylinder and out the bleeder screw. ((photos by cat5752 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=295754&page=2))||
+|Mighty Vac for sucking brake fluid from the master cylinder and out the bleeder screw. ((photos by cat5752 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/57107-simply-bleeding-the-front-brake/page2?t=295754&page=2))||
 |{{:techtalk:ref:tools:mighty_vac_1_by_cat5752.jpg?direct&250|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:tools:mighty_vac_2_by_cat5752.jpg?direct&400|}}|
 ===== Aquarium Pump =====
-You can hook up one of the cheapo aquarium pumps to the brake bleeder. ((flskevin of the xlforum http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33235)) \\
+You can hook up one of the cheapo aquarium pumps to the brake bleeder. ((flskevin of the xlforum https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-photos-videos/20061-bleeding-brakes?t=33235)) \\
 Setup is pretty straight forward. \\
 The lower volume pump is all you need and they are usually between $10 and 15$ at Walmart or others.
@@ Line 291: / Line 294: @@
   * Open the bleeder screw and power on the pump.
   * Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder and don't let it go low.
 ====== Binding the Pedal / Lever ======
   * This method relies on time under pressure where the microscopic bubbles migrate up the line to the reservoir. \\ The master cylinder has to be higher then the caliper and lines to and fro. \\ This is critical to getting the air up and out of the system. \\ Then while applying normal light to medium braking pressure on the pedal / lever; \\ Wrap some tape or rope around it to keep pressure on the system when you let go. \\ Let it stay like that at least overnight. The next day remove the binding and work the pedal / lever. It will feel firmer than it has ever felt. \\ By keeping the fluid under extreme pressure over an extended period of time; \\ It forces the microscopic bubbles to migrate together into large enough bubbles to slowly work it's way up to the master cylinder. \\ However, this still traps air between the plunger and the master cylinder. \\ When you remove the binding the next day; \\ The pedal / lever relaxes the plunger to open the path into the master and allow the trapped air to float into the top of the reservoir. \\ If you've already tried another method, have brakes but they are soft and don't want to open the bleeder again, this might finish the job.
+  * For the front, tie the brake lever to the grips with tape, a rope, or a zip tie. ((ReddTigger of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/158546-no-front-brake-pressure?t=1697062)) \\
-  * For the front, tie the brake lever to the grips with tape, a rope, or a zip tie. ((ReddTigger of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1697062)) \\
+    * With the bike on the side stand turn the bars so the master is positioned with the banjo bolt head pointing slightly downward. ((PaddyD of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/9890-speedbleeders/page5?t=15444&page=5)) \\ This puts the tiny feed hole in the master uphill of everything. \\
-    * With the bike on the side stand turn the bars so the master is positioned with the banjo bolt head pointing slightly downward. ((PaddyD of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=15444&page=5)) \\ This puts the tiny feed hole in the master uphill of everything. \\
   * For the rear, the front tire needs to be elevated enough to set the rear master cylinder higher than the caliper / brake lines.
   * Either you'll have a firm lever / pedal in the morning or you'll see leaking in the assembly, lines, banjos.etc.
   * Or course, if it's still spongy, try it again.
+|{{:techtalk:ref:wheels:brake_handle_binding_to_bleed_brakes_by_handoverfist.jpg?direct&300|}}|
-|
-|{{:techtalk:ref:wheels:brake_handle_binding_to_bleed_brakes_by_handoverfist.jpg?direct&300|}}|
 ====== The Tickle and Tap Method ======
+With this method, you leave the bleeder screw closed. ((hybriDatsun350 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/28453-is-the-mighty-vac-worth-the-40-bucks-for-brake-bleeding?t=47150)) \\
-With this method, you leave the bleeder screw closed. ((hybriDatsun350 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=47150)) \\
+You'd think this wouldn't work as well for the rear with the M/C lower than the caliper. But it is said to work. ((cantolina of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/20389-bad-bleeder-screw?t=33736)) \\
-You'd think this wouldn't work as well for the rear with the M/C lower than the caliper. But it is said to work. ((cantolina of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33736)) \\
 Take take the cap off of the master cylinder and flutter the lever. \\
 You barely have to move it back and forth. Just continuously tap it from the front with your hand and you will see air bubbles coming up. \\ Air should rise through liquid. \\
 Stop every once and a while and tap the line with the handle of a screwdriver to free any stuck air bubbles.
-  - With the bike on a lift or the jiffy stand, turn the front wheel to the LEFT until the front master cylinder is as close to level as possible. ((Gold951 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=53378&page=2)) \\ Squeeze the brake lever as far as you can and note how the brakes feel and how far the lever moves.
+  - With the bike on a lift or the jiffy stand, turn the front wheel to the LEFT until the front master cylinder is as close to level as possible. ((Gold951 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/32162-stripped-bleeder-valve/page2?t=53378&page=2)) \\ Squeeze the brake lever as far as you can and note how the brakes feel and how far the lever moves.
   - Clean the area around the reservoir cap, remove the cap and top off the brake fluid. \\ Leave the cap off.
   - Starting at the front caliper, __gently__ rap the brake line with a screwdriver handle or similar tool, working your way up the brake line.
-  - Now tickle your brake lever. Move it no more that 1/8" or so. ((cantolina of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33736)) \\ Looking into the reservoir, you will notice a particular point when the air comes up. \\ (not everytime, but always in the same place in the lever movement) \\ Sometimes it comes out in very small bubbles. You may have to use a flashlight at first.
+  - Now tickle your brake lever. Move it no more that 1/8" or so. ((cantolina of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/20389-bad-bleeder-screw?t=33736)) \\ Looking into the reservoir, you will notice a particular point when the air comes up. \\ (not everytime, but always in the same place in the lever movement) \\ Sometimes it comes out in very small bubbles. You may have to use a flashlight at first.
   - When air stops coming out, quickly release the brake lever letting it "snap" against the mechanical stop.  \\ (you should see small bubbles coming out of the small port in the piston bore)
   - Repeat steps 3 through 5 several times. \\ The size and quantity of bubbles should decrease.
   - Slowly squeeze the brake handle as far as you can. \\ Note brake feel and lever travel and then quickly release the brake lever.
-  - Repeat steps 3 through 7 as necessary. \\ Repeat this for quite a while until you have 'some' lever. \\ Then you may need to proceed to bleed as usual afterwards (depending on results). ((cantolina of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33736))
+  - Repeat steps 3 through 7 as necessary. \\ Repeat this for quite a while until you have 'some' lever. \\ Then you may need to proceed to bleed as usual afterwards (depending on results). ((cantolina of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/20389-bad-bleeder-screw?t=33736))
   - Top off the master cylinder and install the cover.
 ====== Gravity Bleeding ======
+  * This takes a while, but it works. Open the bleeders and wait for a steady leak and close the bleed screw. Should be good. ((rick szymanski of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-intake-and-exhaust/sportster-motorcycle-air-intake-carburetor-efi-fuel-and-exhaust/132514-how-to-bleed-the-front-duel-disk-brakes?t=1417991&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe))
-  * This takes a while, but it works. Open the bleeders and wait for a steady leak and close the bleed screw. Should be good. ((rick szymanski of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1417991&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe))
+  * Try leaving the top off of the master cylinder overnight. Sometimes the air will work itself out over a few hours. ((jharback of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/109840-bleeding-front-brake?t=1025390&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe))
-  * Try leaving the top off of the master cylinder overnight. Sometimes the air will work itself out over a few hours. ((jharback of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1025390&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe))
+  * Tap the line lightly to help move bubbles that may be stuck somewhere in the system. ((rejeanprimeau of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/150929-rubbermount-rear-master-cylinder/page2?t=1632435&page=2))
-  * Tap the line lightly to help move bubbles that may be stuck somewhere in the system. ((rejeanprimeau of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1632435&page=2))
 ====== XLFORUM Bleeding Advice ======
 ===== Patience =====
   * **Don't give up**
-  * Bleeding a bike MC can be a chore. ((PetesPonies of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1025390&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe)) \\ If you get frustrated with it, walk away. \\ Come back to it when you are in a more calm state of mind. ((aswyk of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1062732&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe&page=3))
+  * Bleeding a bike MC can be a chore. ((PetesPonies of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/109840-bleeding-front-brake?t=1025390&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe)) \\ If you get frustrated with it, walk away. \\ Come back to it when you are in a more calm state of mind. ((aswyk of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-general-discussion-and-problems/112336-can-t-bleed-the-rear-brake-keep-getting-air-bubbles/page3?t=1062732&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe&page=3))
 ===== Before bleeding =====
 ==== Before attempting to bleed the lines ====
+  * Remove the M/C top, actuate the pedal / lever and make sure you can see a small squirt of fluid in the center to make sure the M/C is working.
-    * Remove the M/C top, actuate the pedal / lever and make sure you can see a bubble in the center to make sure the M/C is working.
+    * The small squirt of fluid is just a visual that tells you the piston is retracting home as it should when released. \\    The small fluid (not air) squirt only shows up on initial single push of the lever/pedal, not upon release. \\ The hole through from the reservoir to the entire brake fluid path is JUST in front of the rubber on the piston. \\ From that hole, lever/pedal at rest, the entire brake line/fluid path is open to the reservoir up top. \\ Brake system is now an (open system).
-      * Pump hard on the brake pedal lever. You should see a small buble as mentioned above.
+    * When you press the lever/pedal, the piston in the master is pushed past the hole and the front rubber piston seal closes off the hole to the reservoir. \\ The entire brake line/fluid path is now closed to the reservoir up top.\\ Brake system is now a (closed system).
-      * If you see a geyser in the reservoir, you've torn the rubber cup in the master cylinder. ((rejeanprimeau of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1643503)) \\ (to avoid this in the future: open the bleeder when pushing your caliper piston in)
+    * You should be able to see the piston/seal pass back and forth thru the hole in the bottom of the reservoir by actuating the lever/pedal.
-    * Make sure that the system has been thoroughly cleaned/flushed of all old fluid and any debris.
+    * The caliper piston(s) continuously expand/contract in their bore when the pressure from the master cylinder pushes and releases on them. \\ And when the pads wear, the caliper pistons do not retract as much as when the pads are new. \\ They gradually take up the space that the now thinner pads leave behind. \\ So when the caliper doesn't retract it's piston(s) fully, that leaves less fluid in the lines when the master's piston does retract. \\ The hole in the bottom of the master reservoir adds fluid to the system after it's piston retracts.
-    * Fill the system/brake cylinder bowl with the correct fluid.
+    * If the master cylinder piston is fully retracting (as it should) at rest, you should get a slight spurt of fluid on the next single push of the lever/pedal. \\ (and only until the rubber seal gets forward of the hole to the reservoir) \\ If you actuate the lever/pedal repeatedly then you may not be giving the M/C piston time to retract enough to get the squirt.
-    * Ensure that the relief port is clear of debris.
+    * If the M/C piston doesn't retract home (and past the hole to the reservoir), you will not get the squirt of fluid. \\ Either you are actuating the lever/pedal too quickly to get the squirt or there is something wrong with the piston/seals. \\ And you'll need to remove the guts and inspect which usually means to install a new kit. \\ No disturbance or squirt would result in a dragging brake, decreased pad life and gradual brake energization due to heat buildup. ((TSBM-712 dated June 16,1977)) \\ You can verify whether the piston is retracted by carefully running a thin wire (.020") into the small hole from  the reservoir into the cylinder bore. \\ An interference with the wire would indicate that the cup was covering the hole and inspection of the cause should be made.
-    * Make sure the brake cylinder piston is fully retracted. ((XLFREAK of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1062732&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe&page=4))
+    * Recap:
-    * Check the brake pads to ensure they are within spec.
+      * Push the lever/pedal and release....once and let go. You should see a small squirt of fluid on the push action.
-    * When you crack the bleeder valve, only turn it a 1/4 turn or so. ((DaytonaSportster of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1637840&page=2)) \\  Any more and you will get air from around the threads. \\ Also if you're using a vac, make sure it's not leaking where you attach it to the bleeder nipple.
+      * You should NOT see a squirt when releasing the lever/pedal, only initial single push instead.
+      * If you see a geyser of fluid, the rubber cup busted at the piston in the master cylinder and you'll need to install a repair kit. ((rejeanprimeau of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/152494-brake-bleeding-problem?t=1643503)) \\ (to avoid this in the future: open the bleeder when pushing your caliper piston in)
+      * If you don't have a geyser shooting up when pushing the lever, the rubber is doing it's job.
+      * An occasional air bubble of any size from the squirt indicates air in the brake system and has got to be removed.
+      * Bleed until there are NO air bubbles.
+  * Make sure that the system has been thoroughly cleaned/flushed of all old fluid and any debris.
+  * Fill the system/brake cylinder bowl with the correct fluid.
+  * Ensure that the relief port is clear of debris.
+  * Make sure the brake cylinder piston is fully retracted. ((XLFREAK of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-general-discussion-and-problems/112336-can-t-bleed-the-rear-brake-keep-getting-air-bubbles/page4?t=1062732&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe&page=4))
+  * Check the brake pads to ensure they are within spec.
+  * When you crack the bleeder valve, only turn it a 1/4 turn or so. ((DaytonaSportster of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/151790-front-brake-has-no-pressure-tried-drain-bleed-no-success/page2?t=1637840&page=2)) \\  Any more and you will get air from around the threads. \\ Also if you're using a vac, make sure it's not leaking where you attach it to the bleeder nipple.
 ==== How the master cylinder transfers fluid ====
+    * The downstroke, pushing the pedal / pulling the lever, forces (only) what's in the lines already into the hose. ((Hippysmack of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/196411-bleeding-rear-brakes-and-adjustment-1985#post4287304)) \\ Releasing the pedal (pedal at rest) is what adds fluid into the lines from the M/C reservoir.
-    * The downstroke, pushing the pedal / pulling the lever, forces (only) what's in the lines already into the hose. ((Hippysmack of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5740029#post5740029)) \\ Releasing the pedal (pedal at rest) is what adds fluid into the lines from the M/C reservoir.
     * The compensation port (from the reservoir) sits just in front of the main plunger seal. \\ The lever has to fully retract or the port get's blocked off by the seal.
     * This is also why you can leave the M/C cap off during bleeding. \\ The brake lines are shielded from air infiltration from the reservoir with the plunger engaged.
     * When the plunger is depressed, the system pressurizes and the easiest route out is the compensation port to the reservoir. \\ (until the plunger pushes past the port) \\ This is why their is a small spurt in the cup when you press the lever or pedal. \\ If this turns out to be a gusher, the plunger seals need to be replaced.
-    * **Bypassing**: a term meaning the seals are old, fluid is bypassing the seal and not pushing the fluid down to the caliper. ((iNSaNeSHaNe of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2070555&highlight=m%2Fc)) \\ Just get a rebuild kit if this is happening.
+    * **Bypassing**: a term meaning the seals are old, fluid is bypassing the seal and not pushing the fluid down to the caliper. ((iNSaNeSHaNe of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/194332-another-brake-bleeding-thread?t=2070555&highlight=m/c)) \\ Just get a rebuild kit if this is happening.
-Cutaway showing how the compensation port gives fluid into the system. ((photos by Hippysmack of the XLFORUM  http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5697405#post5697405)) \\ Front M/C shown but both front and rear operate the same. \\
+Cutaway showing how the compensation port gives fluid into the system. ((photos by Hippysmack of the XLFORUM  https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/194332-another-brake-bleeding-thread/page4#post4229408)) \\ Front M/C shown but both front and rear operate the same. \\
 |Plunger removed, port to bowl exposed.|Plunger at rest, brake system is open to M/C|Plunger engaged, brake system is closed to M/C|
 |{{:techtalk:ref:wheels:master_cylinder_cutaway_1_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:wheels:master_cylinder_cutaway_2_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:wheels:master_cylinder_cutaway_3_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|
@@ Line 367: / Line 373: @@
   * **Make sure you do regular brake fluid changes according to the FSM change intervals**. \\ If the bike has sat for a long period of time, it's best to go ahead and plan on changing both front and rear.
   * **Paint peel-ability of different fluids**:
-    * DOT 3,4 & 5.1 can peel the paint on frame and other painted parts. \\ DOT 5 is silicon based and will not peel the paint. \\ You can spill DOT 5 brake fluid virtually anywhere and harm nothing. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=867917&page=2))
+    * DOT 3,4 & 5.1 can peel the paint on frame and other painted parts. \\ DOT 5 is silicon based and will not peel the paint. \\ You can spill DOT 5 brake fluid virtually anywhere and harm nothing. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/100666-brake-bleeding/page2?t=867917&page=2))
   * **Caution**:
     * Do not mix DOT 5 with (DOT 3,4 or 5.1)
-|  Note the gooey mess from mixing Dot 5 and Dot 3 fluids. ((photos by FearlessFrisbee of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1508535))  ||
+|  Note the gooey mess from mixing Dot 5 and Dot 3 fluids. ((photos by FearlessFrisbee of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139024-rear-wheel-install-conundrum?t=1508535))  ||
 |{{:techtalk:ref:wheels:dot_5_-_dot_3_mix_goop_1_by_fearlessfrisbee.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:wheels:dot_5_-_dot_3_mix_goop_2_by_fearlessfrisbee.jpg?direct&300|}}|
@@ Line 377: / Line 383: @@
     * Any type brake fluid can break down over time, solids fall out of suspension and clog up orifices.
     * However, DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 will mix with water and they will dry up as water does over time.
-    * Look for corrosion in the aluminum in addition to the goo. \\ It's caused by the fluid absorbing water when the bikes sit for a long time and or the fluid is not changed for a long time. \\ Too long and you may find pits in the body of the MC and / or bore pitted beyond being cleanable with a hone. ((FearlessFrisbee of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1509571))
+    * Look for corrosion in the aluminum in addition to the goo. \\ It's caused by the fluid absorbing water when the bikes sit for a long time and or the fluid is not changed for a long time. \\ Too long and you may find pits in the body of the MC and / or bore pitted beyond being cleanable with a hone. ((FearlessFrisbee of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139080-what-size-is-the-master-cylinder?t=1509571))
-|  Affects of dried up DOT 3 brake fluid. ((photos by Daddio of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1509571))  ||
+|  Affects of dried up DOT 3 brake fluid. ((photos by Daddio of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139080-what-size-is-the-master-cylinder?t=1509571))  ||
 |{{:techtalk:ref:wheels:dot_3_dried_up_1_by_daddio.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:wheels:dot_3_dried_up_2_by_daddio.jpg?direct&300|}}|
-==== Notes regarding brake lines ====
+==== Notes regarding brake lines ====
     * Take the trash out. \\ Check the M/C, calipers and lines to make sure they are free from debris or sludge. \\ Old brake fluid will break down and solids will fall out of suspension and block passage ways.
-    * Old rubber brake lines may get weak from the inside. \\ This can cause them to bulge at the weak spot and not send pressure to the caliper. \\ It's sort of like a baloon being inflated. ((jharback of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1637840)) \\ It doesn't do it normally enough to be noticed (but enough to drive you crazy trying to track the problem down). \\ Just keep an eye on them while actuating the lever / pedal.
+    * Old rubber brake lines may get weak from the inside. \\ This can cause them to bulge at the weak spot and not send pressure to the caliper. \\ It's sort of like a baloon being inflated. ((jharback of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/151790-front-brake-has-no-pressure-tried-drain-bleed-no-success?t=1637840)) \\ It doesn't do it normally enough to be noticed (but enough to drive you crazy trying to track the problem down). \\ Just keep an eye on them while actuating the lever / pedal.
 ==== Lever / Pedal ====
+    * Make sure the piece that hooks up to the actual lever that controls the brake is adjusted correctly. \\ It makes a considerable difference in the function of the M/C. ((DIESEL of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/40848-bleeding-the-rear-brake/page2?t=91538&page=2))
-    * Make sure the piece that hooks up to the actual lever that controls the brake is adjusted correctly. \\ It makes a considerable difference in the function of the M/C. ((DIESEL of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=91538&page=2))
 ==== Check for leaks ====
+    * If you pull the cap off the M/C and the reservoir is very low or dry, that usually points to a leak somewhere. ((Deimus of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/40848-bleeding-the-rear-brake?t=91538)) \\ Possible, even if you could bleed it, there is still a problem that you should take care of. \\ Before you can build pressure, the system has to be leak free. \\ (this is especially important when changing lines / components) \\ Gussers will be obvious. But weeping leaks may be harder to detect in a fast visual scan.
-    * If you pull the cap off the M/C and the reservoir is very low or dry, that usually points to a leak somewhere. ((Deimus of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=91538)) \\ Possible, even if you could bleed it, there is still a problem that you should take care of. \\ Before you can build pressure, the system has to be leak free. \\ (this is especially important when changing lines / components) \\ Gussers will be obvious. But weeping leaks may be harder to detect in a fast visual scan.
     * **There is no reason to use Teflon tape on any brake connections**. \\ If you want to seal the threads on the bleeder screw (normally unnecessary with conventional bleeding) try greasing the threads first. \\ Teflon tape can get sucked into and stop up the orifices (especially on flared fittings).
 ==== Trapped air ====
 Trapped air that refuses to leave will drive you crazy trying to find it.
     * **Brake fluid**: \\
-      * When DOT 3, 4 or 5.1 fluids trap air, the smaller bubbles can migrate and come together to form bigger bubbles that are fairly easy to remove. ((Gold951 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=53378&page=2))
+      * When DOT 3, 4 or 5.1 fluids trap air, the smaller bubbles can migrate and come together to form bigger bubbles that are fairly easy to remove. ((Gold951 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/32162-stripped-bleeder-valve/page2?t=53378&page=2))
-      * When DOT 5 fluid traps air, the bubbles have some difficulty migrating, so the bubbles tend to be smaller and there are more of them. \\ Also, when you pressurize a DOT 5 brake system that has trapped air and then let the pressure off; \\ The DOT 5 fluid tends to break the original bubbles into even smaller and smaller bubbles. \\ What you end up with is a brake fluid that has lots of microscopic air bubbles and your brakes feel spongy. \\ DOT 5 holds stupid amounts of air and you'll get no lever until its out (or at least most of it). ((cantolina of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33736)) \\ You may find that re-bleeding the caliper every couple of days will eventually get you a hard pedal for awhile. ((sportsterpaul of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1632435&page=3))
+      * When DOT 5 fluid traps air, the bubbles have some difficulty migrating, so the bubbles tend to be smaller and there are more of them. \\ Also, when you pressurize a DOT 5 brake system that has trapped air and then let the pressure off; \\ The DOT 5 fluid tends to break the original bubbles into even smaller and smaller bubbles. \\ What you end up with is a brake fluid that has lots of microscopic air bubbles and your brakes feel spongy. \\ DOT 5 holds stupid amounts of air and you'll get no lever until its out (or at least most of it). ((cantolina of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/20389-bad-bleeder-screw?t=33736)) \\ You may find that re-bleeding the caliper every couple of days will eventually get you a hard pedal for awhile. ((sportsterpaul of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/150929-rubbermount-rear-master-cylinder/page3?t=1632435&page=3))
     * **Calipers**. \\ Sometimes small air bubbles get stuck in the caliper.
-      * Try removing the caliper (M/C cap off) and pressing in the piston which will force fluid / air up into the master. ((iNSaNeSHaNe of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2070555&highlight=m%2Fc))
+      * Try removing the caliper (M/C cap off) and pressing in the piston which will force fluid / air up into the master. ((iNSaNeSHaNe of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/194332-another-brake-bleeding-thread?t=2070555&highlight=m/c))
-      * You can also reduce the volume needed to fill the system, temporarily, by chocking the pads in the retracted position. ((bustert of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2070555&highlight=m%2Fc&page=3)) \\ It takes less fluid with no movement of the pads and will take out any surge issues. \\ Once you get a hard feel, unblock the pads and then pump out while keeping the master full. \\ It may help if you vacuum the fluid up from the caliper. \\ Another way is to just let it sit overnight since the fluid will seek its own level.
+      * You can also reduce the volume needed to fill the system, temporarily, by chocking the pads in the retracted position. ((bustert of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/194332-another-brake-bleeding-thread/page3?t=2070555&highlight=m/c&page=3)) \\ It takes less fluid with no movement of the pads and will take out any surge issues. \\ Once you get a hard feel, unblock the pads and then pump out while keeping the master full. \\ It may help if you vacuum the fluid up from the caliper. \\ Another way is to just let it sit overnight since the fluid will seek its own level.
     * **Brake lines**.
     * **Master cylinder**.
@@ Line 410: / Line 413: @@
 **Before you strip the bleeder screw head**: \\
 Helpful wrench advice: \\
-  * Do not use an open ended wrench on the bleeder nipple ((stevo of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=61198#post61198)) (unless it has already been stripped). \\ Use a 6 pointed box end or socket to match the 6 pointed head, 12 point wrench to 12 point head. \\ A 12 point wrench slips too easy and will most likely end up rounding off the corners. \\ That tiny bleed nipple will shear off real easy.
+  * Do not use an open ended wrench on the bleeder nipple ((stevo of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/3137-rtf-brake-bleeding-101#post61198)) (unless it has already been stripped). \\ Use a 6 pointed box end or socket to match the 6 pointed head, 12 point wrench to 12 point head. \\ A 12 point wrench slips too easy and will most likely end up rounding off the corners. \\ That tiny bleed nipple will shear off real easy.
     * Tap the nipple straight on a few times with a flat punch to jar it loose.
   * If you have can't access a 6 point wrench, use a 6 point socket to break the screw loose and lightly snug it back with the wrench. \\ Then you can open and close the bleeder as you need to with the wrench.
     * On small bolts and nipples like bleed nipples, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS open them by hitting the wrench with a small hammer or like tool. \\ Metal to metal tapping, too - not a deadblow plastic mallet. You need that sharp impact to break loose the small bolt or fitting; Us gorilla wrenchers can shear a fitting thru constant pressure right quick. ((Hopper))
   * A stripped bleeder screw can happen when the wrong size / type wrench is used on the bleeder screw and / or too much torque was applied. \\ Next to come out of the toolbox is usually the vise-grip pliers. \\ This works sometimes but, when it doesn't, it will round off the rest of the hex head or break the screw in half.
-  * You can also use a flare nut wrench. ((Gold951 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=53378&page=2)) \\ It looks just like a standard box end wrench except the box is slotted so you can get the wrench on brake fitting flare nuts.
+  * You can also use a flare nut wrench. ((Gold951 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/32162-stripped-bleeder-valve/page2?t=53378&page=2)) \\ It looks just like a standard box end wrench except the box is slotted so you can get the wrench on brake fitting flare nuts.
-  * You can keep a junk ratchet in the box for just such an occasion. Sure - you can get a little breaker bar. \\ But on delicate, often tight space work, a chinese disposable ratchet comes in handy! ((chuckspeed of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die))
+  * You can keep a junk ratchet in the box for just such an occasion. Sure - you can get a little breaker bar. \\ But on delicate, often tight space work, a chinese disposable ratchet comes in handy! ((chuckspeed of the XLFOUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/82723-stuck-broken-bolt-removal-101?t=614423&highlight=tap+die))
   * **Once you're done, tighten the bleeder with the socket to 80-100 in/lbs**. \\ The FSM reads 80-100 ft/lbs..... this is wrong.
 **After you strip the head.** \\
 Removing a stripped or worn down hex head on the bleeder valve: \\
   * You can use a Dremil tool with the metal cutting blade or even a small file and cut / form a flat on two opposite sides of the screw. \\ The heat generated will help and you can then use an open end wrench to remove the bleeder screw. \\ Then, of course, replace the bleeder with a new one.
+  * You can also remove the caliper and carefully placed it in my bench vice to get a better grip on the bleeder screw. ((dlo883 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/32162-stripped-bleeder-valve/page2?t=53378&page=2)) \\ Then use vice grips on the bleeder or cut 2 flats on it to remove the bleeder. \\ Clean the hole out with a brush / canned air and replace with a new bleeder screw.
 |{{:techtalk:ref:tools:12_point_wrench_on_bleeder_screw_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&400|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:wheels:brake_bleeder_screw_removal_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&400|}}|
 |  Using 12 point box end wrench on bleeder screw. ((photo by Hippysmack))  |  Flats cut on two sides of bleeder screw ((photo by Hippysmack))  |
-You can also remove the caliper and carefully placed it in my bench vice to get a better grip on the bleeder screw. ((dlo883 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=53378&page=2)) \\
-Then use vice grips on the bleeder or cut 2 flats on it to remove the bleeder. \\
-Clean the hole out with a brush / canned air and replace with a new the bleeder valve.
 **Broken off Bleeder Valve**: \\
-Brake fluid holds some moisture and can cause the screw to rust. ((mjbogrand of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=425716)) \\
+Brake fluid holds some moisture and can cause the screw to rust. ((mjbogrand of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/66096-bleeder-screw-on-caliper-broke-off-now-what?t=425716)) \\
-Before doing any type removal of a broken off bleeder valve, it's best to remove the caliper. \\ That way, you don't introduce contaminates into the brake system.
+Before doing any type removal of a broken off bleeder valve, it's best to remove the caliper. \\ That way, you don't introduce contaminates into the brake system. \\
+Some come easy, some take a few tries. If it's a steel screw completely seized by corrosion to an aluminum caliper, it's not coming out without the aluminum threads too. ((Maxeffort of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/201603-xl883n-iron-2009-bleeder-valve-broken#post4473974)) \\
   * **Possible fixes without removing the caliper**:
-    - The valve already has a hole in it so you can try inserting an Easy-Out to remove it. \\ Careful as it takes no force at all to snap them off and they are hard to drill. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=425716&page=2))
+    - The valve already has a hole in it so you can try inserting an Easy-Out thread extractor to remove it. \\ Careful as it takes no force at all to snap them off and they are hard to drill. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/66096-bleeder-screw-on-caliper-broke-off-now-what/page2?t=425716&page=2)) \\ Otherwise drill the hole a little bigger and try a bigger Easy-Out.    - Leave the bleeder alone. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/66096-bleeder-screw-on-caliper-broke-off-now-what/page2?t=425716&page=2)) \\ You can bleed fluid and air by slackening off the pipe fitting nut where the brake line screws into the caliper. \\ Loosen it as you squeeze the lever, tighten it before letting the lever go. \\ It's messy, but Harleys using DOT 5 fluid won't strip the paint. \\ Do it over the lawn or over an old newspaper and then wash down with soapy water when done. \\ The old broken nipple is not going to come loose . That is why it broke in the first place. \\ And all the air comes out the brake line connection as long as it's the highest point on the caliper. \\ And, you wont have to rebuild the caliper that way.
-    - Leave the bleeder alone. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=425716&page=2)) \\ You can bleed fluid and air by slackening off the pipe fitting nut where the brake line screws into the caliper. \\ Loosen it as you squeeze the lever, tighten it before letting the lever go. \\ It's messy, but Harleys using DOT 5 fluid won't strip the paint. \\ Do it over the lawn or over an old newspaper and then wash down with soapy water when done. \\ The old broken nipple is not going to come loose . That is why it broke in the first place. \\ And all the air comes out the brake line connection as long as it's the highest point on the caliper. \\ And, you wont have to rebuild the caliper that way.
   * **Possible fixes by removing the caliper** (and afterwards, replacing the seals): \\ Heat and / or lubricants (especially WD-40) can destroy the seals.
-    - Spray the remains of the valve with penetrating lube, let it set a bit, then use an Easy-Out to remove the remaining piece. ((mjbogrand of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=425716))
+    - Spray the remains of the valve with penetrating lube, let it set a bit, then use an Easy-Out to remove the remaining piece. ((mjbogrand of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/66096-bleeder-screw-on-caliper-broke-off-now-what?t=425716))
-      *  Stop if it slips, and go back to soaking. ((sunchild2071 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1925442)) \\ Don't make your mission to get it out in one day. \\ Use a straight penetrating fluid, not penetrating fluid/lubricant. The lubricant will help the removal tool slip, as well.
+      *  Stop if it slips, and go back to soaking. ((sunchild2071 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/179198-pie-caliper-bleeder-valve-broke?t=1925442)) \\ Don't make your mission to get it out in one day. \\ Use a straight penetrating fluid, not penetrating fluid/lubricant. The lubricant will help the removal tool slip, as well.
-    - Remove the caliper, strip it completely and drill to the largest diameter possible without getting into the threads. ((simeli of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1925442)) \\ Be careful not to drill through the seat. Lightly tap an easy out into the drilling, remove the easy out (don't try to remove the piece just yet). \\ Put heat directly on the bleeder until it just starts to glow red (the heat will travel quickly into the aluminum). \\ Invert a can of air and spray to quickly cool the bleeder (the heat will remain in the aluminum so you have to do the next part quickly). \\ Insert the easy out, give it a "light tap" and turn out the piece.
+    - Remove the caliper, strip it completely and drill to the largest diameter possible without getting into the threads. ((simeli of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/179198-pie-caliper-bleeder-valve-broke?t=1925442)) \\ Be careful not to drill through the seat. Lightly tap an easy out into the drilling, remove the easy out (don't try to remove the piece just yet). \\ Put heat directly on the bleeder until it just starts to glow red (the heat will travel quickly into the aluminum). \\ Invert a can of air and spray to quickly cool the bleeder (the heat will remain in the aluminum so you have to do the next part quickly). \\ Insert the easy out, give it a "light tap" and turn out the piece.
-    - You could drill it and use 2 small picks to pick out the old bleeder threads. ((mjbogrand of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=425716))
+    - You could drill it and use 2 small picks to pick out the old bleeder threads. ((mjbogrand of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/66096-bleeder-screw-on-caliper-broke-off-now-what?t=425716))
-      * After drilling to the maximum size without getting into the threads, install a 1/32" bur on a Dremel tool.  ((simeli of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1925442)) \\ Take the remainder down to the threads in two spots 180 degrees from each other. \\ Use a pick to remove the leftover pieces of the bleeder (this is very tedious and time consuming).
+      * After drilling to the maximum size without getting into the threads, install a 1/32" bur on a Dremel tool.  ((simeli of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/179198-pie-caliper-bleeder-valve-broke?t=1925442)) \\ Take the remainder down to the threads in two spots 180 degrees from each other. \\ Use a pick to remove the leftover pieces of the bleeder (this is very tedious and time consuming).
-    - You could also try a left handed drill bit. ((mjbogrand of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=425716)) The heat generated and the (unthreading) motion may loosen it. \\ However, if you drill it, you'll need to completely disassemble the caliper to remove the swarf. ((66xlch of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=425716&page=2)) \\ If you ruin the threads, they make an 1/8" pipe thread adapter which has a bleeder screw in it.
+    - You could also try a left handed drill bit. ((mjbogrand of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/66096-bleeder-screw-on-caliper-broke-off-now-what?t=425716)) The heat generated and the (unthreading) motion may loosen it. \\ However, if you drill it, you'll need to completely disassemble the caliper to remove the swarf. ((66xlch of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/66096-bleeder-screw-on-caliper-broke-off-now-what/page2?t=425716&page=2)) \\ If you ruin the threads, they make an 1/8" pipe thread adapter which has a bleeder screw in it.
-    - Heat the caliper with a propane torch and try to unscrew the nipple with vice grips or drill it out with a left handed drill bit. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=425716&page=2)) \\ The caliper is aluminum so it will expand and loosen the grip on the nipple.
+    - Heat the caliper with a propane torch and try to unscrew the nipple with vice grips or drill it out with a left handed drill bit. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/66096-bleeder-screw-on-caliper-broke-off-now-what/page2?t=425716&page=2)) \\ The caliper is aluminum so it will expand and loosen the grip on the nipple.
-    - If you've got a wire feed welder, dismantle the M/C, get a thin jam nut and plug weld it to what's left of the bleeder. ((Racepres of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1829559)) \\ Let it cool a bit and unscrew the nut (and bleeder). Install a caliper rebuild kit and a new bleeder.
+    - If you've got a wire feed welder, dismantle the M/C, get a thin jam nut and plug weld it to what's left of the bleeder. ((Racepres of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/170548-broken-bleeder-screw?t=1829559)) \\ Let it cool a bit and unscrew the nut (and bleeder). Install a caliper rebuild kit and a new bleeder.
+      * Per Maxeffort, the heat and then cooling help. The heat is localized and quick, it won't hurt the caliper. \\ That's part of why it works, the broke bolt gets hot, expands, then contracts against the cooler casting. (One might protect the rubber from weld splatter). ((Maxeffort of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/201603-xl883n-iron-2009-bleeder-valve-broken#post4473974)) \\ So whether to rebuild the caliper depends on the one doing the work. And as always, if it works, it works. \\
   * **Or you can just search for a new or used caliper**.
 **Stripped bleeder threads**:
-  * **Bleeder threads**.
+  * You can use a "Brake bleeder repair kit" if the actual threads in the caliper are bad. ((decman of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/32162-stripped-bleeder-valve?t=53378)) \\ You can get the kit at most auto parts stores. \\ Try a search for Dorman (13915) [[https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-HELP-Bleeder-Screw-Repair-Kit-for-1-4-to-7-16-or-7mm-to-10mm-Scr-13915/161464962895? epid=17017014407&hash=item25980fcf4f:g:9xUAAOSw86Jaa5z6|Bleeder Screw Repair Kit for 1/4" to 7/16" or 7mm to 10mm Screws]] \\ You will need to drill out the hole and tap for the new threads.
-    * You can use a "Brake bleeder repair kit" if the actual threads in the caliper are bad. ((decman of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=53378)) \\ You can get the kit at most auto parts stores. \\ Try a search for Dorman (13915) [[https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-HELP-Bleeder-Screw-Repair-Kit-for-1-4-to-7-16-or-7mm-to-10mm-Scr-13915/161464962895? epid=17017014407&hash=item25980fcf4f:g:9xUAAOSw86Jaa5z6|Bleeder Screw Repair Kit for 1/4" to 7/16" or 7mm to 10mm Screws]] \\ You will need to drill out the hole and tap for the new threads.
+  * Here is another link: [[https://www.ebay.com/itm/HArley-FX-FXE-SPORTY-FRONT-Brake-Caliper-Bleeder-Repair-Kit-USA-SCREW-HOLE/132024051789?hash=item1ebd3f284d:g:ngYAAOSwiDFYRGIF:sc:USPSFirstClass!36801!US!-1|Harley FX FXE SPORTY front brake caliper bleeder repair kit]] \\ 1/8" clearance in the caliper wall is all that's required. \\ Drill out bleeder hole to 25/64" diameter and 3/4" deep. \\ Tap with a bottoming tap 7/16"x20 (at least 10 threads). \\ Remove the chips.
-    * Here is another link: [[https://www.ebay.com/itm/HArley-FX-FXE-SPORTY-FRONT-Brake-Caliper-Bleeder-Repair-Kit-USA-SCREW-HOLE/132024051789?hash=item1ebd3f284d:g:ngYAAOSwiDFYRGIF:sc:USPSFirstClass!36801!US!-1|Harley FX FXE SPORTY front brake caliper bleeder repair kit]] \\ 1/8" clearance in the caliper wall is all that's required. \\ Drill out bleeder hole to 25/64" diameter and 3/4" deep. \\ Tap with a bottoming tap 7/16"x20 (at least 10 threads). \\ Remove the chips.
 **Damaged Bleeder Screw Seat**:
@@ Line 473: / Line 472: @@
 ===== Attaching a hose to the bleeder valve =====
   * **Sizes**:
     * The I.D. needs to be smaller than the mouth of the bleeder screw so you can install it tight on the bleeder.
-    * A 5/16" hose will work but 1/4" works better. \\ 1/4" is harder to get on but it won't slip off (as easily).  ((Horse of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=61198#post61198))
+    * A 5/16" hose will work but 1/4" works better. \\ 1/4" is harder to get on but it won't slip off (as easily).  ((Horse of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/3137-rtf-brake-bleeding-101#post61198))
     * Tygon R-3603 PVC tubing (3/16" I.D.) works good also but it may be harder to come by. \\ The wall is thick and it holds tight.
     * All else fails, take your bleeder screw off and take it with you to a hardware store to size the hose to fit.
@@ Line 484: / Line 482: @@
   * **Attachment**:
     * The hose I.D. should be smaller than the O.D. of the bleeder screw head so it fits tight once installed. \\ Pressed on with your fingers, it should not easily come off. \\ However, unless it is fastened on, any hose will come off when pulled on.
-    * You can also put a zip tie over the hose / bleeder just tight enough to keep it on the bleeder if needed. ((Loner of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=61198#post61198))
+    * You can also put a zip tie over the hose / bleeder just tight enough to keep it on the bleeder if needed. ((Loner of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/3137-rtf-brake-bleeding-101#post61198))
-    * When attaching a piece of hose to the bleed valve on the caliper, place a box wrench on the bleeder first. \\ Then put the hose over it on the valve. ((Big Al-1200c of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=867917&page=2))
+    * When attaching a piece of hose to the bleed valve on the caliper, place a box wrench on the bleeder first. \\ Then put the hose over it on the valve. ((Big Al-1200c of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/100666-brake-bleeding/page2?t=867917&page=2))
   * **Length**:
-    * About 3-4 feet should do. You just need it to be taller than the caliper and where you can see it while pumping the pedal / lever. ((Hippysmack of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2072934))
+    * About 3-4 feet should do. You just need it to be taller than the caliper and where you can see it while pumping the pedal / lever. ((Hippysmack of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/196411-bleeding-rear-brakes-and-adjustment-1985?t=2072934))
     * You may find the more length you have, the more versatility you have when using several bleeding methods. \\ It wouldn't hurt to buy a 10 feet or more roll of tubing. It gives you more options.
   * **Considerations**:
@@ Line 493: / Line 491: @@
     * Bleeding into a cup can waste more fluid than gravity bleeding.
     * The threads between the bleeder and caliper can allow atmosphere to enter them which can be sucked up into the hose. \\ You can actually close the bleeder, then add a little fluid in the hose near the bleeder, apply suction on the hose and watch bubbles appear in the hose. \\ This can trick you into thinking the air is coming from the brake system. \\ You can hold the bleeder tight against the threads and shut off air infiltration from the atmosphere. \\ You can remove the bleeder screw and apply a little grease around the threads to help stop outside air infiltration. \\ Some have used plumber's thread tape to seal the threads and keep out air. \\ However, if not done properly, small fragments of the tape can break off and enter the caliper/brake system and stop up orifices. \\ Some have also used pipe thread dressing (pipe dope) to seal the threads. \\ Use this sparingly as pipe dope will stay solid to milky thick if it is allowed to fall into the caliper.
 {{:techtalk:ref:wheels:bleeder_screw_sucking_air_by_hippysmack.png?direct&300|}} ((drawing by Hippysmack)) \\
 ===== Where to buy syringes =====
 A syringe can be used to reverse bleed from the bleeder valve to the caliper. \\
 The syringes needed are the big ones (not an injection syringe as you'd normally see used in medical applications). \\
-A 60 ml (2 oz) syringe is just the right size. That is about the amount that will fill the master cylinder and the line. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=295754&page=2))
+A 60 ml (2 oz) syringe is just the right size. That is about the amount that will fill the master cylinder and the line. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/57107-simply-bleeding-the-front-brake/page2?t=295754&page=2))
   * Sources for syringes:
-    * You can buy the 60 ml irrigation syringe at any drug store, especially one specializing in home medical products. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1489822&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe))
+    * You can buy the 60 ml irrigation syringe at any drug store, especially one specializing in home medical products. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/137228-the-right-way-to-flush-brake-lines?t=1489822&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe))
-    *An irrigation syringe from your local pharmacy. ((docweston of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1025390&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe&page=2))
+    *An irrigation syringe from your local pharmacy. ((docweston of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/109840-bleeding-front-brake/page2?t=1025390&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe&page=2))
-    *A mustard or ketchup squirt bottle. ((Loves Curves of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1456442&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe))
+    *A mustard or ketchup squirt bottle. ((Loves Curves of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/134945-bleeding-the-rear-brakes?t=1456442&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe))
-    * A big ole horse syringe from a veterinarian supply store. ((rocketmangb of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1632435&page=2))
+    * A big ole horse syringe from a veterinarian supply store. ((rocketmangb of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/150929-rubbermount-rear-master-cylinder/page2?t=1632435&page=2))
-    * Bird supply shops sell a variety of syringes that are used for hand feeding newborns. ((stealthammer of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33235&page=2))
+    * Bird supply shops sell a variety of syringes that are used for hand feeding newborns. ((stealthammer of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-photos-videos/20061-bleeding-brakes/page2?t=33235&page=2))
-    * Tractor Supply (or other farm implement stores). ((72Iron of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33235&page=3))
+    * Tractor Supply (or other farm implement stores). ((72Iron of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-photos-videos/20061-bleeding-brakes/page3?t=33235&page=3))
 ===== Leave the calipers on =====
   * Rumor has it to take the calipers off to bleed the brakes. \\ There is no reason to do this unless you have a defective master cylinder. \\ Bleeding the lines with the calipers on is the best way to accomplish the chore and to keep from inducing more air or damage to the brake system. \\ Below are some good examples of this.
 ===== Bench bleeding a new master cylinder =====
+  * On a new master cylinder (or one that has been removed from the bike); \\ You can bench bleed it to purge the air out of the master cylinder before installing it onto your brake system. ((sunchild2071 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-general-discussion-and-problems/127783-bench-bleeding))
-  * On a new master cylinder (or one that has been removed from the bike); \\ You can bench bleed it to purge the air out of the master cylinder before installing it onto your brake system. ((sunchild2071 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/archive/index.php/t-1314881.html))
     * Hook up a short temporary line to it and leave the other end open.
     * That open end is routed (must be clean) into the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir (in the fluid, not above).
     * Then actuate the master cylinder until fluid starts pumping, and no more bubbles appear.
     * Once this process is done, install the M/C, hook up your actual brake lines and continue bleeding at the caliper bleed screw.
 ===== Master cylinder issues =====
   * **Note**:
@@ Line 531: / Line 526: @@
   * **Clean the hole(s) in the bottom of the master cylinder**:
     * The transfer hole(s) can get clogged from debris or solids that drop out of suspension in the fluid itself. \\ Clear them with a pin, a bristle from a wire brush, welding tip cleaner or other or the master cylinder will not transfer fluid properly.
-    * The holes can be plugged up solid yet still look like there is nothing in them. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=295754&page=2))
+    * The holes can be plugged up solid yet still look like there is nothing in them. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/57107-simply-bleeding-the-front-brake/page2?t=295754&page=2))
-  * **If none of the methods below work for you**; \\ You may either have a leaking compression fitting, \\ The cup in the master cylinder is blown out, \\ Or the big O-ring in the caliper is not sealing against the piston. \\ Those are the only three places for air to enter the system. ((wedge of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1062732&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w%2FSyringe&page=2))
+  * **If none of the methods below work for you**; \\ You may either have a leaking compression fitting, \\ The cup in the master cylinder is blown out, \\ Or the big O-ring in the caliper is not sealing against the piston. \\ Those are the only three places for air to enter the system. ((wedge of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-general-discussion-and-problems/112336-can-t-bleed-the-rear-brake-keep-getting-air-bubbles/page2?t=1062732&highlight=Brake+Fluid+Bleeding+w/Syringe&page=2))
-  * **If it is a brand new master cylinder and it is not squirting hard** when you have the hose disconnected, \\ You might have a faulty Taiwan Trash master cylinder. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=857384)) \\ If none of the bleeding suggestions below work, try putting your old master cylinder back on. \\ Sometimes, you'll end up with a new aftermarket master cylinder that doesn't work. \\ The seals have been known to be jammed in cockeyed from the manufacturer.
+  * **If it is a brand new master cylinder and it is not squirting hard** when you have the hose disconnected, \\ You might have a faulty Taiwan Trash master cylinder. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/99884-brand-new-handlebar-controls-front-brake-won-t-bleed?t=857384)) \\ If none of the bleeding suggestions below work, try putting your old master cylinder back on. \\ Sometimes, you'll end up with a new aftermarket master cylinder that doesn't work. \\ The seals have been known to be jammed in cockeyed from the manufacturer.
   * A plugged or covered relief port can cause brake drag or locking of the brakes.
-  * **The 04-up rear master cylinder is well noted for a split primary cup**. (((Wedge of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1643503&page=2))
+  * **The 04-up rear master cylinder is well noted for a split primary cup**. (((Wedge of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/152494-brake-bleeding-problem/page2?t=1643503&page=2))
-    * It seems to regularly rear it's ugly head when you replace the rear tire or compressing the rear caliper piston, but there is no connection. ((wedge of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=65452&page=8)) ((sfxtech of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=75157))
+    * It seems to regularly rear it's ugly head when you replace the rear tire or compressing the rear caliper piston, but there is no connection. ((wedge of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=65452&page=8)) ((sfxtech of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/37937-my-rear-master-cylinder-re-build?t=75157))
       * What seems to happen is that the primary cup gets torn in the center and it manages to still work as long as the MC is not disturbed much. \\ (since it is backed up with that flat metal plunger which helps it seal even though broken)
       * **Symptoms include**:
-        * Loss of brake pressure and then it's regained as you ride. ((CBAS5 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=65452)) \\ Or, you may 'feel' something different with the brake pedal but the brakes may still function just fine.  ((devilswild66 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=65452)) \\ Another account: \\ "Felt like there was air in the system, but a few pumps on the pedal and I could ride for a day or two until the pedal got low again". ((vferdman of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=75157&page=3))
+        * Loss of brake pressure and then it's regained as you ride. ((CBAS5 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/34640-rear-master-cylinder?t=65452)) \\ Or, you may 'feel' something different with the brake pedal but the brakes may still function just fine.  ((devilswild66 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/34640-rear-master-cylinder?t=65452)) \\ Another account: \\ "Felt like there was air in the system, but a few pumps on the pedal and I could ride for a day or two until the pedal got low again". ((vferdman of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/37937-my-rear-master-cylinder-re-build/page3?t=75157&page=3))
-        * Spongy brake pedal. ((Hot Rod Sporty of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=65452))
+        * Spongy brake pedal. ((Hot Rod Sporty of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/34640-rear-master-cylinder?t=65452))
         * Complete loss of brake pressure not to be regained.
         * Can not bleed the system no matter which method used.
@@ Line 548: / Line 543: @@
       * If, after tying back the rear brake lever (and everything else you are trying), the brakes do not pump up correctly,  \\ then just get the rebuild kit and follow the instructions.
       * It's quick, simple, easy, and if that cup is split you will never get it to bleed correctly regardless which method you try.
-      * The rebuild is an extremely easy job as long as you have a good set of retaining ring pliers. \\ If you loose the retaining ring that holds the master cylinder plunger to the bell crank, it is a 1/4". ((klinesamuel of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=65452&page=5))
+      * The rebuild is an extremely easy job as long as you have a good set of retaining ring pliers. \\ If you loose the retaining ring that holds the master cylinder plunger to the bell crank, it is a 1/4". ((klinesamuel of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/34640-rear-master-cylinder/page5?t=65452&page=5))
-|  04+ split primary cup. ((photo by sfxtech of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=75157))  |  M/C rebuild kit (42830-05) ((photo by sfxtech of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=75157))  |
+|  04+ split primary cup. ((photo by sfxtech of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/37937-my-rear-master-cylinder-re-build?t=75157))  |  M/C rebuild kit (42830-05) ((photo by sfxtech of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/37937-my-rear-master-cylinder-re-build?t=75157))  |
 |{{:techtalk:ref:wheels:damaged_rear_m-c_primary_cup_by_sfxtech.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:wheels:04_up_m-c_rebuild_kit_by_sfxtech.jpg?direct&300|}}|
-|  More pics of the 04+ split primary cup issue. ((photos by devilswild66 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=65452))  |||
+|  More pics of the 04+ split primary cup issue. ((photos by devilswild66 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-tires-wheels-and-brakes-aa/34640-rear-master-cylinder?t=65452))  |||
 |{{:techtalk:ref:wheels:master_cylinder_torn_primary_cup_1_by_devilswild66.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:wheels:master_cylinder_torn_primary_cup_2_by_devilswild66.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:wheels:master_cylinder_torn_primary_cup_3_by_devilswild66.jpg?direct&300|}}|

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