Differences

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--- techtalk:evo:elec03b [2019/08/04 12:09]
ixl2relax
+++ techtalk:evo:elec03b [2024/01/03 02:02] (current)
hippysmack
@@ Line 12: / Line 12: @@
 <font 20px/Arial, , ;;#ff0000;;>Article #1:</font>
-Original Thread: http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1999892 \\
+Original Thread: https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-electrical/sportster-motorcycle-lighting/187199-indicator-warning-lights-not-working?t=1999892 \\
 (All of the following information and the excellent pictures are from **XLForum member jbee** with only minor editing)
-**Condition Addressed:** The indicator lights under the clock are not working.
+**Condition Addressed:** The indicator lights under the clock (speedo) are not working.
 \\
@@ Line 124: / Line 124: @@
 <font 20px/Arial, , ;;#ff0000;;>Article #2:</font>
-Original Thread: http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2074223 \\
+Original Thread: https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-electrical/sportster-motorcycle-electrical-and-ignition/197567-fixed-replcement-of-burned-led-in-indicator-light-board?t=2074223 \\
 (All of the following information and the excellent pictures are from **XLForum member christophoro** with only minor editing)
-What LED are used in indicator light board?
+**Condition Addressed:** What LEDs are used on the indicator light board & how to replace them?
 This repair was done on a 2017 XL883N Sportster by XLForum member, christophoro.
-===================================================================================
-Long story short, my Neutral indicator is burned. Tested with a voltmeter, as well as with a big-ass 2000's LED and verified that
+- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
-the circuit and Neutral switch are working fine so instead of forking about $70 for a brand new LED strip, im planning on replacing
+Long story short, my Neutral indicator is burned. Tested with a voltmeter, as well as with a big-ass 2000's LED and verified that the circuit and Neutral switch are working fine so instead of forking about $70 for a brand new LED strip, im planning on replacing the burned SMD LED with a new one (already removed the burned one)
-the burned SMD LED with a new one (already removed the burned one)
+To all interested, some further Google search yield some results in a Japanese forum. Apparently the SMD LEDs used are the OSG5120641E (G for Green - Red LED would be OSR5120641E)
-To all interested, some further Google search yield some results in a Japanese forum. Apparently the SMD LEDs used are the
-OSG5120641E (G for Green - Red LED would be OSR5120641E)
 This is the part: https://datasheet.octopart.com/OSG5120641E-OptoSupply-datasheet-41595452.pdf
@@ Line 149: / Line 144: @@
 I'll see if i can order some and will do a replacement video/photo-series if anyone is interested in such a replacement
-===================================================================================
+- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
 Success!
-I managed to replace the SMD LED on the PCB and now i once again have a fully functional indicator light board. The new LED is even
+I managed to replace the SMD LED on the PCB and now i once again have a fully functional indicator light board. The new LED is even brighter than the one replaced.
-brighter than the one replaced.
+As posted above, a LED from the indicator PCB (specifically the Neutral light indicator) went bust. I didnt want to fork $70 to get a new one because, for one, I would have to butcher it again and go through the whole procedure of extending the wires due to my speedo relocation. But I also enjoy fiddling with these kind of problems; Oh and also because I'm a cheap bastard.
-As posted above, a LED from the indicator PCB (specifically the Neutral light indicator) went bust. I didnt want to fork $70 to get
-a new one because for one i would have to butcher it again and go through the whole procedure of extending the wires due to my
+A small foreword: I am no electrician nor certified mechanic. I'm just an average, mechanically inclined dude that likes to break and fix things so my methods are by no means scientifically/procedurally correct but are based mostly on personal experience and trial-and-error.
-speedo relocation but also because i enjoy fiddling with these kind of problems; oh and also because im a cheap bastard.
+Also, BEFORE dismantling everything and start desoldering/soldering LED’s, make sure you have identified the root cause of the problem. With Neutral LED indicator, the issue could have been either the Neutral light switch, a faulty indicator board/LED and anything in between (pinched cables, short in the circuit etc).
-A small foreword: I am no electrician nor certified mechanic. Im just an average, mechanically inclined dude that likes to break
+I personally found it easier to start from top-to-bottom; that being exposing the PCB, hook a multimeter to the LED’s terminals and check for foul play.
-and fix things so my methods are by no means scientifically/procedurally correct but are based mostly on personal experience and
+So now that that is out of the way and without further ado, here's the whole procedure:
-trial-and-error
+. Depending on your setup you will first need to remove the indicator PCB from the speedo mount and disconnect the wire harness in order to be able to work on it. This is easily done by removing the two Philips screws with a small screwdriver located on the under side of the speedo mount (See the parts manual or FSM for the 2017 XL883N).\\
-Also, BEFORE dismantling everything and start desoldering/soldering LED’s, make sure you have identified the root cause of the
+{{:techtalk:evo:elec:ledfix-christophoro-01.jpg?250|}}
-problem. With Neutral LED indicator, the issue could have been either the Neutral light switch, a faulty indicator board/LED and
-anything in between (pinched cables, short in the circuit etc)
+. Gently separate the top part of the indicator lights from the harness.
-I personally found it easier to start from top-to-bottom; that being exposing the PCB, hook a multimeter to the LED’s terminals and
-check for foul play.
+. With a small flat screwdriver gently pry the white top LED partitioning bit from the black housing. You should have exposed the top part of the PCB after that.\\
+{{:techtalk:evo:elec:ledfix-christophoro-02.jpg?250|}}
-So now that this is out of the way and without further ado, here's the whole procedure
+. At this point and before disconnecting any other plugs, turn key to ignition/run position, take a multimeter and check if voltage is recorded across the Neutral LED. Cross reference it with another working LED.
-. Depending on your setup you will first need to remove the indicator PCB from the speedo mount and disconnect the wire harness in
+Voltage across the terminals but no light = bad LED: Congrats! You have ruled out any other fault with the system and identified that the LED is indeed the issue; time to remove the whole harness.
-order to be able to work on it. This is easily done by removing the two Philips screws with a small screwdriver located on the
+No voltage across the terminals = another issue. Stop reading.
-under side of the speedo mount (1 in the diagram - for XL883N)
+. To fully remove the harness, you will need to disconnect the speedo plug as well (see manual). You will need to remove the bottom plate of the speedo by unscrewing the two Allen bolts holding it in place (see manual).
---NoCopyrightImages--
-ledfix-christophoro-01.jpg
-. Gently separate the top part of the indicator lights (8 in the diagram) from the harness (20 - diagram)
-. With a small flat screwdriver gently pry the white top LED partitioning bit from the black housing. You should have exposed the
-top part of the PCB after that. ?
-ledfix-christophoro-02.jpg
-. At this point and before disconnecting any other plugs, turn key to ignition/run position, take a multimeter and check if
-voltage is recorded across the Neutral LED. Cross reference it with another working LED.
-Voltage across the terminals but no light = bad LED: Congrats! You have ruled out any other fault with the system and identified
-that the LED is indeed the issue; time to remove the whole harness
-No voltage across the terminals = another issue. Stop reading
-. To fully remove the harness, you will need to disconnect the speedo plug (17 - diagram) as well. You will need to remove the
-bottom plate of the speedo by unscrewing the two Allen bolts holding it in place (2 - diagram)
 . Go ahead and trace the plug, connecting the harness to the bike, and disconnect that as well.
@@ Line 212: / Line 181: @@
 . You should now be left with the speedo wire harness on your hands.
-. Next you will need to “push” the board out of its black enclosure. Do NOT try pulling it out. The black cable shielding behind
+. Next you will need to “push” the board out of its black enclosure. Do NOT try pulling it out. The black cable shielding behind the enclosure is soft enough that you can pinch it an inch or two below the enclosure and push it towards the enclosure so that the PCB pops out of it. The pushing motion will cause the cable shield to fold below the enclosure but the wires inside will push the board out.\\
+{{:techtalk:evo:elec:ledfix-christophoro-03.jpg?250|}}
-the enclosure is soft enough that you can pinch it an inch or two below the enclosure and push it towards the enclosure so that the
-PCB pops out of it. The pushing motion will cause the cable shield to fold below the enclosure but the wires inside will push the
-board out
-ledfix-christophoro-03.jpg
-. Secure the harness and board however you like best so that you can work on it with both hands
-. This step i found the most difficult due to my lack of soldering skills as well as lack of equipment. Youtube and the Internet
-is your friend. Search and watch how to desolder a LED SMD from a PCB.
-Use a soldering iron and tweezers to heat and pull the LED out. Take your time for this. Heat each terminal for a few seconds at a
-time and pull lightly
-ledfix-christophoro-04.jpg
-. Next grab a new OSG5120641E Green led and test it. For the purpose of the test i assembled the scientific instrument shown
-below; a CR2032 flat battery, two short wires and everything held in place with a clothespin. Touching the LED’s terminal should
-cause it to illuminate. If it does not, try reversing the polarity. LED’s are polarity sensitive.?
-ledfix-christophoro-05.jpg
-ledfix-christophoro-06.jpg
-ledfix-christophoro-07.jpg
-ledfix-christophoro-08.jpg
-. Take note from Step 10 above. The LED polarity and the markings on the PCB should match, i.e. lower pointy edge of the ‘T’
-should align with arrow point. In the image below this is clearly indicated; side by side you can see the markings on the PCB and
-the BACKSIDE of the LED?
-ledfix-christophoro-09.jpg
-. Go ahead and solder the LED on the PCB. Again, youtube is your friend on how to do this?
+. Secure the harness and board however you like best so that you can work on it with both hands.
-ledfix-christophoro-10.jpg
-. Using the makeshift tester tool (see step 11 above) test the LED’s terminals after soldering it, to make sure you havent
+. This step I found the most difficult due to my lack of soldering skills as well as lack of equipment. Youtube and the Internet is your friend. Search and watch how to desolder a LED SMD from a PCB. Use a soldering iron and tweezers to heat and pull the LED out. Take your time for this. Heat each terminal for a few seconds at a time and pull lightly.\\
+{{:techtalk:evo:elec:ledfix-christophoro-04.jpg?250|}}
-damaged the LED while soldering it
+. Next grab a new OSG5120641E Green led and test it. For the purpose of the test i assembled the scientific instrument shown below; a CR2032 flat battery, two short wires and everything held in place with a clothespin. Touching the LED’s terminal should cause it to illuminate. If it does not, try reversing the polarity. LED’s are polarity sensitive.\\
+{{:techtalk:evo:elec:ledfix-christophoro-05.jpg?250|}}{{:techtalk:evo:elec:ledfix-christophoro-06.jpg?250|}}\\
+{{:techtalk:evo:elec:ledfix-christophoro-07.jpg?250|}}{{:techtalk:evo:elec:ledfix-christophoro-08.jpg?250|}}
-. If all checks ok, go plug everything back on the bike (the speedo plug and the main plug harness) but dont tidy up anything
+. Take note from Step 10 above. The LED polarity and the markings on the PCB should match, i.e. lower pointy edge of the ‘T’ should align with arrow point. In the image below this is clearly indicated; side by side you can see the markings on the PCB and the BACKSIDE of the LED.\\
+{{:techtalk:evo:elec:ledfix-christophoro-09.jpg?250|}}
-just yet. Failure to plug them both first and turning the key to IGNITION second will probably register a “Could not read speedo”
+. Go ahead and solder the LED on the PCB. Again, youtube is your friend on how to do this.\\
+{{:techtalk:evo:elec:ledfix-christophoro-10.jpg?250|}}
-error code to pop up and the check engine light to stay on (ask me how i know this)
+. Using the makeshift tester tool (see step 11 above) test the LED’s terminals after soldering it, to make sure you havent damaged the LED while soldering it.
-. Check that the Neutral light works as expected?
+. If all checks ok, go plug everything back on the bike (the speedo plug and the main plug harness) but dont tidy up anything just yet. Failure to plug them both first and turning the key to IGNITION second will probably register a “Could not read speedo” error code to pop up and the check engine light to stay on (ask me how i know this).
-ledfix-christophoro-11.jpg
-ledfix-christophoro-12.jpg
-. If all is ok, go ahead assemble everything back on the harness in reverse order and re-wire the bike as you would finally do
+. Check that the Neutral light works as expected.\\
+{{:techtalk:evo:elec:ledfix-christophoro-11.jpg?250|}}{{:techtalk:evo:elec:ledfix-christophoro-12.jpg?250|}}
-and pat yourself on the back You just saved yourself 70 bucks!?
+. If all is ok, go ahead assemble everything back on the harness in reverse order and re-wire the bike as you would finally do. Then pat yourself on the back - You just saved yourself 70 bucks!\\
-ledfix-christophoro-13.jpg
+{{:techtalk:evo:elec:ledfix-christophoro-13.jpg?250|}}

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