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techtalk:evo:engmech02b [2019/02/28 23:04] hippysmack [Considerations Before You Begin] |
techtalk:evo:engmech02b [2024/01/03 19:50] (current) hippysmack |
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| ====== EVO: Engine Mechanicals - Sub-02B ====== | ====== EVO: Engine Mechanicals - Sub-02B ====== | ||
| ====== 91-99 Lifter Pin Upgrade to 00-05 Lifter Pin Screws ====== | ====== 91-99 Lifter Pin Upgrade to 00-05 Lifter Pin Screws ====== | ||
| - | The stock pin on 91-99 engines is supported only on the outboard side of the lifter bore only. ((aswracing of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5254149&highlight=lifter+pins#post5254149)) ((http://www.hammerperf.com/ttxlcaminstall.shtml#tappetpin)) \\ | + | The stock pin on 91-99 engines is supported only on the outboard side of the lifter bore only. ((aswracing of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-motor-engine/sportster-motorcycle-engine-conversions/177032-a-tale-of-two-sporty-s-and-brand-new-dream-or-1250-was-fun-how-about-100/page3?highlight=lifter+pins#post3827139)) ((http://www.hammerperf.com/ttxlcaminstall.shtml#tappetpin)) \\ |
| Therefore, it doesn't have a lot of strength or stability (particularly with inadequate clearance). \\ | Therefore, it doesn't have a lot of strength or stability (particularly with inadequate clearance). \\ | ||
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| Zipper's has a long pin kit that came out in the 90's. \\ | Zipper's has a long pin kit that came out in the 90's. \\ | ||
| - | It is an alternative to tapping for the threaded pins. ((steelworker of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=341901&page=2)) \\ | + | It is an alternative to tapping for the threaded pins. ((steelworker of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-motor-engine/sportster-motorcycle-bottom-end/60421-what-kind-of-tappets-do-you-recommend/page2?t=341901&page=2)) \\ |
| That retains the stock look with the triangular cover. \\ | That retains the stock look with the triangular cover. \\ | ||
| You can also have longer pins made at your local machine shop. \\ | You can also have longer pins made at your local machine shop. \\ | ||
| But you still have to drill the hole longer for the extra length pins. \\ | But you still have to drill the hole longer for the extra length pins. \\ | ||
| - | But then HD one-upped them in 2000 when they came out with the screw-in pins (18532-00) as shown below. ((aswracing of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5254149&highlight=lifter+pins#post5254149)) \\ | + | But then HD one-upped them in 2000 when they came out with the screw-in pins (18532-00) as shown below. ((aswracing of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-motor-engine/sportster-motorcycle-engine-conversions/177032-a-tale-of-two-sporty-s-and-brand-new-dream-or-1250-was-fun-how-about-100/page3?highlight=lifter+pins#post3827139)) \\ |
| Not only is it longer to provide better support like the Zippers solution, but the outboard side is positively locked in place via the threads. \\ | Not only is it longer to provide better support like the Zippers solution, but the outboard side is positively locked in place via the threads. \\ | ||
| - | The main thing with installing either style upgrade is to drill the hole straight. If you're off even slightly, the tappet pin may try to bind the lifter. ((aswracing of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5254149&highlight=lifter+pins#post5254149)) \\ | + | The main thing with installing either style upgrade is to drill the hole straight. If you're off even slightly, the tappet pin may try to bind the lifter. ((aswracing of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-motor-engine/sportster-motorcycle-engine-conversions/177032-a-tale-of-two-sporty-s-and-brand-new-dream-or-1250-was-fun-how-about-100/page3?highlight=lifter+pins#post3827139)) \\ |
| It can be done with a hand drill on an assembled motor if you're careful, but it's best done in a drill press or a mill with the right case half removed. \\ | It can be done with a hand drill on an assembled motor if you're careful, but it's best done in a drill press or a mill with the right case half removed. \\ | ||
| Basically you just punch the hole deeper with a 3/16" drill bit, drill the outer portion only with a .201" bit and tap it to 1/4-20" threads. \\ | Basically you just punch the hole deeper with a 3/16" drill bit, drill the outer portion only with a .201" bit and tap it to 1/4-20" threads. \\ | ||
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| Anti-roll pins are designed to keep roller lifters from turning sideways during operation. \\ | Anti-roll pins are designed to keep roller lifters from turning sideways during operation. \\ | ||
| - | A roller that's turned sideways does not roll. ((NRHS Sales of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1768265&page=29)) \\ | + | A roller that's turned sideways does not roll. ((NRHS Sales of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-motor-engine/sportster-motorcycle-engine-conversions/164458-cannibal-queen-conversion-cam-carnage/page29?t=1768265&page=29)) \\ |
| | 91-99 lifter pins vs 00-05 lifter pin screws ((photos by Hippysmack)) || | | 91-99 lifter pins vs 00-05 lifter pin screws ((photos by Hippysmack)) || | ||
| |{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:99-00_anti-rotation_pin_comparison_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:99-00_anti-rotation_pin_comparison_2_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:99-00_anti-rotation_pin_comparison_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:99-00_anti-rotation_pin_comparison_2_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| - | |||
| ====== Considerations Before You Begin ====== | ====== Considerations Before You Begin ====== | ||
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| The pin sits just a few thousandths away from the lifter flat also. \\ | The pin sits just a few thousandths away from the lifter flat also. \\ | ||
| - | {{:techtalk:evo:engmech:91-99_lifter_pin_screw_upgrade_42_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:techtalk:evo:oil:91-99_lifter_pin_screw_upgrade_52._by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&400|}} ((drawing by Hippysmack)) | + | {{:techtalk:evo:engmech:91-99_lifter_pin_screw_upgrade_42_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Hippysmack)) {{:techtalk:evo:engmech:91-99_lifter_pin_screw_upgrade_52_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&400|}} ((drawing by Hippysmack)) |
| Simplified drawings of the upgrade: \\ | Simplified drawings of the upgrade: \\ | ||
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| {{:techtalk:evo:engmech:91-99_lifter_pin_screw_upgrade_31_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&400|}} {{:techtalk:evo:engmech:91-99_lifter_pin_screw_upgrade_32_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&400|}} ((drawings by Hippysmack)) | {{:techtalk:evo:engmech:91-99_lifter_pin_screw_upgrade_31_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&400|}} {{:techtalk:evo:engmech:91-99_lifter_pin_screw_upgrade_32_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&400|}} ((drawings by Hippysmack)) | ||
| + | |||
| + | Factory tappet pin clearance on an 05 engine. \\ | ||
| + | {{:techtalk:evo:oil:05_tappet_screws_1_by_johnk.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by JohnK of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-motor-engine/sportster-motorcycle-motor-top-end/132786-fixing-a-leaky-top-end-with-pics/page6?t=1422877&page=6)) | ||
| Below is an example gone wrong using a scrap piece of aluminum. \\ | Below is an example gone wrong using a scrap piece of aluminum. \\ | ||
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| ===== Drilling the hole straight ===== | ===== Drilling the hole straight ===== | ||
| - | |||
| Below are some ideas to help keep the drill bit straight through from the front to the back hole while drilling. \\ | Below are some ideas to help keep the drill bit straight through from the front to the back hole while drilling. \\ | ||
| However, outside of going it alone with a hand drill and a bit, there still is a certain amount of precise required. \\ | However, outside of going it alone with a hand drill and a bit, there still is a certain amount of precise required. \\ | ||
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| * It cuts center first and the fluted cutter comes in to cut the primary hole. | * It cuts center first and the fluted cutter comes in to cut the primary hole. | ||
| * This helps to keep the bit from wandering and keep the hole centered throughout the cut. \\ | * This helps to keep the bit from wandering and keep the hole centered throughout the cut. \\ | ||
| - | * **Try a using a hand held 3/16" hollow sleeve as a guide**. ((IXL2Relax of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2072496)) | + | * **Try a using a hand held 3/16" hollow sleeve as a guide**. ((IXL2Relax of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-motor-engine/sportster-motorcycle-motor-top-end/196039-91-99-lifter-pin-upgrade-to-00-05-lifter-pin-screws?t=2072496)) |
| * You can use a hand held 3/16" sleeve with a smaller bit inside as a guide to make the initial center for the bigger 3/16" bit. | * You can use a hand held 3/16" sleeve with a smaller bit inside as a guide to make the initial center for the bigger 3/16" bit. | ||
| * The sleeve should be a close fit thru the front hole to align with the rear hole location. | * The sleeve should be a close fit thru the front hole to align with the rear hole location. | ||
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| * The center bit doesn't have to go the entire pin length distance but far enough to allow the 3/16" bit to bite to that center. | * The center bit doesn't have to go the entire pin length distance but far enough to allow the 3/16" bit to bite to that center. | ||
| * Then the 3-1/6" bit is inserted (without the guide) to drill the back hole using the center hole you just made. | * Then the 3-1/6" bit is inserted (without the guide) to drill the back hole using the center hole you just made. | ||
| - | * Cookie cutter sleeves you'd buy at the hardware store are not always flat on the end or perfectly round. ((Hippysmack of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2072496)) \\ Then you have to drill a pilot hole (straight) through. \\ If this hole is off center, the hole in the back wall will be also. \\ In going with the adage of the hole being be 1/2 the O.D., the pilot hole would around 9/32". \\ The smaller the drill bit, the more it will flex while drilling (especially if you push on it). \\ Go slow and let the bit do the cutting. \\ A machined sleeve may work better but it would need to be a tight slip fit and not loose to let the circular motion of the drill point pull it towards the small hole. | + | * Cookie cutter sleeves you'd buy at the hardware store are not always flat on the end or perfectly round. ((Hippysmack of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-motor-engine/sportster-motorcycle-motor-top-end/196039-91-99-lifter-pin-upgrade-to-00-05-lifter-pin-screws?t=2072496)) \\ Then you have to drill a pilot hole (straight) through. \\ If this hole is off center, the hole in the back wall will be also. \\ In going with the adage of the hole being be 1/2 the O.D., the pilot hole would around 9/32". \\ The smaller the drill bit, the more it will flex while drilling (especially if you push on it). \\ Go slow and let the bit do the cutting. \\ A machined sleeve may work better but it would need to be a tight slip fit and not loose to let the circular motion of the drill point pull it towards the small hole. |
| - | * **You can tap the hole first and then center drill the back wall through a bolt**. ((bustert of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2072496&page=3)) | + | * **You can tap the hole first and then center drill the back wall through a bolt**. ((bustert of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-motor-engine/sportster-motorcycle-motor-top-end/196039-91-99-lifter-pin-upgrade-to-00-05-lifter-pin-screws/page3?t=2072496&page=3)) |
| * Basically, you use the bolt as a sleeve. | * Basically, you use the bolt as a sleeve. | ||
| * Here are a couple videos showing this concept by bustert of the XLFORUM | * Here are a couple videos showing this concept by bustert of the XLFORUM | ||
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| * If you used a .196" or even a .199" pre-drill, the threads would have a little less clearance to wiggle. | * If you used a .196" or even a .199" pre-drill, the threads would have a little less clearance to wiggle. | ||
| * You'd just have to be more careful while tapping. | * You'd just have to be more careful while tapping. | ||
| - | * **You can go it alone with a hand drill**. ((Hippysmack of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2072496)) | + | * **You can go it alone with a hand drill**. ((Hippysmack of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-motor-engine/sportster-motorcycle-motor-top-end/196039-91-99-lifter-pin-upgrade-to-00-05-lifter-pin-screws?t=2072496)) |
| * This is the easiest route and probably the way most would try it at home. | * This is the easiest route and probably the way most would try it at home. | ||
| * However, results may vary. | * However, results may vary. | ||
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| ====== Installing the Screws Using a Hand Drill Only ====== | ====== Installing the Screws Using a Hand Drill Only ====== | ||
| - | |||
| First, clean the bores with solvent on a rag (Acetone used here). \\ | First, clean the bores with solvent on a rag (Acetone used here). \\ | ||
| The oiling holes coming into the bores need to be taped of so aluminum shavings don't get into them. \\ | The oiling holes coming into the bores need to be taped of so aluminum shavings don't get into them. \\ | ||
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| ===== Tapping the outboard side ===== | ===== Tapping the outboard side ===== | ||
| - | |||
| The outside hole now has to be pre-drilled with a .201" bit for 1/4"x20 threads to be cut for the pin screw. \\ | The outside hole now has to be pre-drilled with a .201" bit for 1/4"x20 threads to be cut for the pin screw. \\ | ||
| Line up the bit as straight as possible. \\ | Line up the bit as straight as possible. \\ | ||
| Line 164: | Line 163: | ||
| |{{:techtalk:ref:tools:91-99_lifter_pin_screw_upgrade_19_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:91-99_lifter_pin_screw_upgrade_20_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:tools:91-99_lifter_pin_screw_upgrade_21_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |{{:techtalk:ref:tools:91-99_lifter_pin_screw_upgrade_19_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:91-99_lifter_pin_screw_upgrade_20_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:tools:91-99_lifter_pin_screw_upgrade_21_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| - | |Clean the area in and on top of the bore, reapply tape as needed, ((photos by Hippysmack))||| | + | |Clean the area in and on top of the bore, re-apply tape as needed, ((photos by Hippysmack))||| |
| |{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:91-99_lifter_pin_screw_upgrade_22_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:91-99_lifter_pin_screw_upgrade_23_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:91-99_lifter_pin_screw_upgrade_24_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:91-99_lifter_pin_screw_upgrade_22_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:91-99_lifter_pin_screw_upgrade_23_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:91-99_lifter_pin_screw_upgrade_24_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
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| ====== Test Fit the Lifters ====== | ====== Test Fit the Lifters ====== | ||
| - | |||
| Test fit the lifters movement up and down with the screws installed. \\ | Test fit the lifters movement up and down with the screws installed. \\ | ||
| With each pin in place, you should be able to push the lifter up from the bottom with your finger with no resistance from the pin. \\ | With each pin in place, you should be able to push the lifter up from the bottom with your finger with no resistance from the pin. \\ | ||
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| |{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:91-99_lifter_pin_screw_upgrade_36_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:91-99_lifter_pin_screw_upgrade_37_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:91-99_lifter_pin_screw_upgrade_36_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:91-99_lifter_pin_screw_upgrade_37_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| + | |||
| ====== If the lifters lock up ====== | ====== If the lifters lock up ====== | ||
| - | |||
| - | |||
| Try running the tap back in and putting slight pressure on the tap (in this case) away from the lifter while turning to attempt to cut threads deeper on the opposite side of the lifter.\\ | Try running the tap back in and putting slight pressure on the tap (in this case) away from the lifter while turning to attempt to cut threads deeper on the opposite side of the lifter.\\ | ||
| It worked in the pics below. Afterwards, the lifter moves up and down freely without binding with the bolt tightened. \\ | It worked in the pics below. Afterwards, the lifter moves up and down freely without binding with the bolt tightened. \\ | ||
