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--- techtalk:ih:oil03g [2019/12/21 03:35]
hippysmack [Check Ball Seat Repair]
+++ techtalk:ih:oil03g [2024/01/01 18:58]
hippysmack
@@ Line 6: / Line 6: @@
   * [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ry1ZsiVfPJI|Youtube video on an oil feed seal]]. Far easier and non destructive. ((video by bustert of the XLFORUM))
+====== Leaking Around Oil Pressure Switch Connection======
+If you have a leak from the oil pressure switch nipple area, 99% of the time it is a cracked body. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/175074-66-xlch-oil-pump-concerns/page2?t=1878331&page=2)) \\
+Pull the 1" hex nut and look for a crack on the flat face of the body at 6:00. \\
+The crack will pass from the center hole, thru the small hole to outside of the body. \\
+{{:techtalk:ih:oil:1966_oil_pump_leak_by_ediv.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by ediv of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/175074-66-xlch-oil-pump-concerns?t=1878331)) {{:techtalk:ih:oil:77-85_sportster_oil_pump_cracked_by_canadiantux.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by CanadianTux of the XLFORUM)) \\
 ====== Fixing Leaky Pump from Sit Sumping ======
-Oil getting into the crankcase from the act of the bike just sitting still is a common occurrence. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1813185&page=2 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1813185&page=2)) \\
+Oil getting into the crankcase from the act of the bike just sitting still is a common occurrence. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/168986-oil-pump-check-fixes/page2?t=1813185&page=2 and https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/168986-oil-pump-check-fixes?t=1813185&page=2)) \\
 It is commonly blamed on the oil pump check valve (ball) allowing oil from the oil tank to seep past it and flood the engine. \\
 But it can also be coming in from the clearances of the gears as well as from the shaft seal between the feed and return gears. \\
 ==== Testing the oil pump for leaks ====
 You could apply oil via the oil tank to the inlet nipple on an installed pump and observe if oil is leaking through the check into the discharge hole to the engine. \\
 There is no reason to take anything but the front fitting of the pump off. \\
@@ Line 25: / Line 30: @@
 No oil in catch can now = a good check valve (ball). \\
-Another way to check the system would be to remove the pump, dis-assemble it and blank it off. ((bustert of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1813185)) \\
+Another way to check the system would be to remove the pump, dis-assemble it and blank it off. ((bustert of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/168986-oil-pump-check-fixes?t=1813185)) \\
 Then you could pull a vacuum from the inlet nipple to see it the system is functional. \\
 You could apply oil via a container to the nipple on a ready, install the pump and observe. \\
 Then you can see if oil is leaking through the discharge hole to the engine or out the return to tank hole. \\
 This would indicate ball or shaft. Just add oil until it leaks, easy to calculate hydrostatic head to know at what pressure it will leak at. \\
 It is better to know the problem than to throw money at it. \\
 ===== Check Ball Seat Repair =====
-When it comes to a 'fix' for a leaky check ball; ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1813185&page=2)) \\
+When it comes to a 'fix' for a leaky check ball; ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/168986-oil-pump-check-fixes/page2?t=1813185&page=2)) \\
 On the human side: \\
 The drive to better the way something works stands on its own and it does bring rewards (usually thru a string of failures). \\
@@ Line 60: / Line 65: @@
 Over time, the ball will actually touch the shoulder and not seal on the bevel. \\
 A little indigo paste on the ball will tell if this is happening. \\
 **The tapping method**: \\
@@ Line 67: / Line 71: @@
 A small particle of foreign matter lodged on the valve (ball) seat will prevent the check valve ball from seating. \\
 If the seat is only slightly damaged, place a new ball on the seat and use a drift against the ball and to lightly tap against the seat. \\
-Then install a new spring along with the new ball. ((piniongear of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1013445)) \\
+Then install a new spring along with the new ball. ((piniongear of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/109149-oil-pump-check-ball-seating?t=1013445)) \\
 Basically, just stick the ball in the hole, push it tight against the seat with a drift and then give it a few light whacks with a small hammer. \\
-The aluminum housing is not as fragile as it would seem. Just do not use an 8 pound hammer. ((bustert of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1013445)) \\
+The aluminum housing is not as fragile as it would seem. Just do not use an 8 pound hammer. ((bustert of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/109149-oil-pump-check-ball-seating?t=1013445)) \\
 This will remove small slight striation marks or pits. \\
 It also says to replace the pump body if the valve seat badly damaged. \\
@@ Line 75: / Line 79: @@
 **The lapping method**: \\
 The seat can be lapped with a clean bead blasted Evo pushrod end (it’s the same size as
- the check ball). ((gungatim of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1013445)) \\
+ the check ball). ((gungatim of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/109149-oil-pump-check-ball-seating?t=1013445)) \\
+Basically you are reconditioning the seat where the ball sits so it creates a good seal around the ball. \\
 The tool on the left is a homemade check ball lapping tool used to lap the seat where the check ball sits in the oil pump (57-76). ((Toolmaker of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=499487&highlight=check+ball+lapping+tool)) \\
@@ Line 155: / Line 160: @@
 The seal will harden over time and the elasticity will be moot so it is a replacement item. \\
 However, even with a freshly overhauled pump there can be a sumping issue.
+There was no seal until mid 1958. \\
+Seepage into the return side from feed side will try to get into the cam case. \\
+It usually don't though. It ends up in crankcase instead. Same with any oil that can back feed down return line. \\
+Bikes that, when on the side stand, have the oil level in tank over top of the return or vent opening may siphon. \\
+This is why the XLH oil level is high in tank but the XLCH horseshoe tank is way lower. Having the vent siphon is worse than return. \\
+In the mid 60's, HD modded the XLH oil filter canister to break siphon on a rare circumstance that would really load the engine. \\
+The oil passes in the gap of the top of the keyed feed gear to reach the breather valve shaft. \\
+As the level in pump rises over time, oil passes between the shaft and it's bore in the cast iron top housing where it ends up around OD of the breather gear. \\
+It runs up the gear/housing clearance until it sees the port for the crankcase scavenge air and starts filling the crankcase. \\
+As an additional item when oil gets to the outside of iron housing tower thru the port, it can travel to front side of tower where it seeps into the cam case catch basin. \\
+Although this isn't a big issue. \\
+Oil in cam case is way more apt to puke out the breather than the crankcase oil. Guys with kickers will realize there are 2 different puke scenes. \\
+  - When you push the kicker thru for the first time you hear that the bike is gonna puke but it doesn't actually puke until 2 or 3 kicks. \\ This is crankcase oil.
+  - As soon as you touch the kicker, oil is blowing out of tube. The cam case is full of oil. \\ This usually is a vent line back feeding tank oil to cam chest.
+If you have this (2) scene cronic, it means you may be allowing the oil level to be so high its over the top of the vent in tank. \\
+Or, the vent pipe in the tank is broken. Either way, that's not the only problem. \\
+In order for oil to drain from the tank thru the vent line to cam case, air has to be able to get into tank. \\
+Finding and fixing the air leak will make a world of difference. \\
+Another point to ponder. \\
+It was once common for the K model to never puked but just leak. \\
+The few guys who still run the 62< spring loaded generator gear face seal will also have similar experience. \\
+These bikes are just as apt to puke when kicking as any others. Once running, they are pretty self contained unlike the 63> washer type. \\
+If you got an oil cooler or filter that's on the return line AND THESE ARE MOUNTED HIGH ON THE BIKE, THEY WILL GRAVITY BACKFEED into return side. \\
+This can happen when the return port on the tank is above the tank oil level. \\
+The replacement air flows into the open puke tube thru the cam chest into vent line and back to the tank where it gets sucked into the return line as cooler drains into motor. \\
+For you efficiency driven guys. Why aren't you sticking a piece of 3/8" hose to the end of the puke tube and putting the other end back in oil tank?
+And for those who can't or won't run the restrictive 62< setup. You may want to consider a virtual 62< setup. It works like this: \\
+   - Remove the tank cap.
+   - Fire the bike up.
+   - As fast as possible, plug the end of the puke tube with your index finger.
+   - Hold for 15 seconds. \\ If the pressure gets to high, pump more rpms to the motor and the pressure will lower.
+   - Release your finger.
+   - Put the cap back on.
+   - Ride
+High tech but xl's seem to tolerate it. \\
+If you have a 70< that pukes after sitting and it still has a transfer valve or siphon tube 54<, try this the next time you park it. \\
+Crack or remove the primary filler plug (XLH) and remove the upper primary inspection cover screw (tin cover bikes). \\
+Put the plug back on just before your next ride and see if the puke goes away or gets better. \\
+You may be observing something that was designed on purpose from the factory. \\
 Below are some ideas for fixing a leaky shaft seal. \\