Differences
This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.
| Both sides previous revision Previous revision Next revision | Previous revision Next revision Both sides next revision | ||
|
techtalk:ref:engmech01a [2018/05/07 02:52] hippysmack [Common Causes of Stripped or Damaged Threads] |
techtalk:ref:engmech01a [2020/04/28 22:53] hippysmack ↷ Links adapted because of a move operation |
||
|---|---|---|---|
| Line 2: | Line 2: | ||
| ====== REF: Engine Mechanicals - Sub-01A ====== | ====== REF: Engine Mechanicals - Sub-01A ====== | ||
| ====== Timing Inspection Hole and Plug - Sealing and Thread Repair ====== | ====== Timing Inspection Hole and Plug - Sealing and Thread Repair ====== | ||
| - | This is a common problem with all Sportsters. It doesn't matter if you’re working on an Ironhead or Evo, the problems and solutions are all the same. | + | This is a common problem with all 57-03 Sportsters. It doesn't matter if you’re working on an Ironhead or Evo, drain plug or timing inspection plug. The problems and solutions are all the same. |
| ====== Common Causes of Stripped or Damaged Threads ====== | ====== Common Causes of Stripped or Damaged Threads ====== | ||
| Line 40: | Line 40: | ||
| ====== Leaking Oil From the Plug ====== | ====== Leaking Oil From the Plug ====== | ||
| - | If your plug is not loose and will tighten up, you may have some warped threads that aren't allowing the flat surface on the back of the plug head to seal against the flat machined outer surface of the case. Over tightening from here will damage the threads even more. ((Hippysmack)) | + | See [[techtalk:ref:engmech01d#leaking_oil_from_the_drain_timing_plug|Leaking Oil From the Drain / Timing Plug]] in the Sportsterpedia. |
| - | * Try pulling the plug, clean the threads and use some anti-seize on them. The anti-seize should seal up the threads as long as the crank case isn't building pressure and causing it to push some seepage out. ((wedge of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1958781&highlight=timing+hole+plug)) Teflon tape can also be used on the threads to prevent leakage. | + | ===== Temporary Repair Options ===== |
| + | In an emergency or as patch until you can have a permanent solution done, here are some possible ideas in the Sportsterpedia to keep you riding ([[techtalk:ref:engmech01d#drain_plug_sealing_and_temporary_fixes|Drain Plug Sealing and Temporary Fixes]]). A temporary repair is just that. It may blow out at any time. It's best to have a spare with you in case the current temporary fix blows out, especially if your away from home. ((RigidIronhead of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1541235&highlight=colony+plug&page=2)) | ||
| ====== Installing the Plug ====== | ====== Installing the Plug ====== | ||
| Line 54: | Line 55: | ||
| * The first time you loosen one of these plugs it may be real tight. Don't make the mistake of over-tightening when you install it. You'll probably find that they get tighter all by themselves. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1541235&highlight=colony+plug&page=4)) | * The first time you loosen one of these plugs it may be real tight. Don't make the mistake of over-tightening when you install it. You'll probably find that they get tighter all by themselves. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1541235&highlight=colony+plug&page=4)) | ||
| - | ====== Temporary Repair Options ====== | ||
| - | In an emergency or as patch until you can have a permanent solution done, these are some possible temporary solutions to keep you riding. A temporary repair is just that. It may blow out at any time. It's best to have a spare with you in case the current temporary fix blows out, especially if your away from home. ((RigidIronhead of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1541235&highlight=colony+plug&page=2)) | ||
| - | * Use a self expanding rubber plug like the ones used for freeze plugs. They are removable and they expand by tightening the wingnut or bolt in the middle. ((milmat1 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1541235&highlight=colony+timing+hole+plug&page=3)). | + | |
| - | * Cut a piece of oil or gas line hose that has an O.D. that will fit snug into the case hole. Find a bolt that has threads that are slightly larger than the inside of the hose. Screw the bolt into the hose and the threads of the bolt will expand the hose out against the case threads to seal the leak. ((CaptCaveman of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1541235&highlight=colony+timing+hole+plug&page=2)) | + | |
| ====== Permanent Repair Options ====== | ====== Permanent Repair Options ====== | ||
| Line 68: | Line 66: | ||
| * Try [[techtalk:ref:engmech01a#chasing_the_existing_threads|Chasing the existing threads on the case and the plug to straighten them back up]]. | * Try [[techtalk:ref:engmech01a#chasing_the_existing_threads|Chasing the existing threads on the case and the plug to straighten them back up]]. | ||
| * **If the case threads are stripped** and the plug just sits there and spins without tightening up: | * **If the case threads are stripped** and the plug just sits there and spins without tightening up: | ||
| - | * Try an [[techtalk:ref:engmech01a#aftermarket_plug_or_bolt_with_longer_threads|Aftermarket plug or bolt with longer threads]] to catch the good threads in the rear of the case. | + | * Try an [[techtalk:ref:engmech01a#using_an_aftermarket_drain_plug_or_bolt_with_longer_threads|Aftermarket plug or bolt with longer threads]] to catch the good threads in the rear of the case. |
| * Try [[techtalk:ref:engmech01a#cutting_new_threads_for_an_oversized_plug|Cutting new threads for an oversized plug]]. | * Try [[techtalk:ref:engmech01a#cutting_new_threads_for_an_oversized_plug|Cutting new threads for an oversized plug]]. | ||
| ===== Chasing the Existing Threads ===== | ===== Chasing the Existing Threads ===== | ||
| - | See also the [[techtalk:ref:notes01#cross_threading|warped or damaged thread repair]] section of the Sportsterpedia. | + | See also the [[techtalk:ref:tools023|warped or damaged thread repair]] section of the Sportsterpedia. |
| * A tap and a die is normally used to chase the threads in the case and on the plug respectively back to their original shape / cleanliness and usually done with plenty of good cutting oil. \\ However, for this application, fluidity can be detriment to the cause. With the small amount of threads on the plug and the imminent danger of getting cut shavings (swarf) into the engine case thru the timing hole, it is best to use thick lube or even axle grease to lube the tap to chase the case threads. \\ While chasing the threads, your following the existing 'centered' thread pattern. ((Hippysmack http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2068069&page=3)) \\ You only have to run the tap in far enough to clear the length of the plug, not to the end of the case threads. \\ | * A tap and a die is normally used to chase the threads in the case and on the plug respectively back to their original shape / cleanliness and usually done with plenty of good cutting oil. \\ However, for this application, fluidity can be detriment to the cause. With the small amount of threads on the plug and the imminent danger of getting cut shavings (swarf) into the engine case thru the timing hole, it is best to use thick lube or even axle grease to lube the tap to chase the case threads. \\ While chasing the threads, your following the existing 'centered' thread pattern. ((Hippysmack http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2068069&page=3)) \\ You only have to run the tap in far enough to clear the length of the plug, not to the end of the case threads. \\ | ||
| Line 81: | Line 79: | ||
| |**5/8"x18 NF 'bottoming' hand tap** for the case threads \\ (which is flat on the end with a short a taper)|**5/8"x18 NF die** for the plug| | |**5/8"x18 NF 'bottoming' hand tap** for the case threads \\ (which is flat on the end with a short a taper)|**5/8"x18 NF die** for the plug| | ||
| - | |{{:techtalk:ref:notes:5-8x18_bottoming_tap_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&400|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:notes:5-8x18_die_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&400|}}| | + | |{{techtalk:ref:svcproc:5-8x18_bottoming_tap_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&400|}}|{{techtalk:ref:svcproc:5-8x18_die_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&400|}}| |
| * **Choosing the right tap** | * **Choosing the right tap** | ||
| Line 143: | Line 141: | ||
| - | ===== Aftermarket Plug or Bolt with Longer Threads ===== | + | ===== Using an Aftermarket Drain Plug or Bolt with Longer Threads ===== |
| The factory timing hole plug can be up to app. 1/2 the length of the threads in the case on Evo engines and the entire length minus a couple threads on IHs. If you have stripped threads in the front half of the case, chances are the threads in the rear half of the case hole are still good. | The factory timing hole plug can be up to app. 1/2 the length of the threads in the case on Evo engines and the entire length minus a couple threads on IHs. If you have stripped threads in the front half of the case, chances are the threads in the rear half of the case hole are still good. | ||
| Line 149: | Line 147: | ||
| * Aftermarket 'drain plugs' can be purchased at auto parts stores and can be a suitable replacement for the factory plug. | * Aftermarket 'drain plugs' can be purchased at auto parts stores and can be a suitable replacement for the factory plug. | ||
| * You'll need to check the O.D. of the head and make sure it will seat properly to the machined mating surface in the case. If it's too big, you may need to round sand or grind the head diameter slightly with a grinder. ((jordan1200 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2068069&page=9)) | * You'll need to check the O.D. of the head and make sure it will seat properly to the machined mating surface in the case. If it's too big, you may need to round sand or grind the head diameter slightly with a grinder. ((jordan1200 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2068069&page=9)) | ||
| - | * While using a bench grinder, mark one flat of the head with a sharpie marker to verify when you've made a complete rotation of the drain plug. This visual helps in allowing you to keep the head the same diameter all the way around. Keep nice even pressure while turning the plug against a medium grit wheel and clean the edges on a wire wheel. ((jordan1200 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2068069&page=9)) | + | * While using a bench grinder, mark one flat of the head with a sharpie marker to verify when you've made a complete rotation of the drain plug. This visual helps in allowing you to keep the head the same diameter all the way around. Keep nice even pressure while turning the plug against a medium grit wheel and clean the edges on a wire wheel (with light pressure applied). ((jordan1200 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2068069&page=9)) |
| * Some, if not all, aftermarket drain plugs are longer than the stock plug and will catch those last few threads in the rear of the hole. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1541235&highlight=colony+plug&page=4)) Just make sure the threads are 5/8"x18 and the length is shorter than the length of the case hole. So, you may have to measure the length of the hole depending on your year model. It doesn't need to stick out of the back of the hole and be an obstruction to the flywheel. | * Some, if not all, aftermarket drain plugs are longer than the stock plug and will catch those last few threads in the rear of the hole. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1541235&highlight=colony+plug&page=4)) Just make sure the threads are 5/8"x18 and the length is shorter than the length of the case hole. So, you may have to measure the length of the hole depending on your year model. It doesn't need to stick out of the back of the hole and be an obstruction to the flywheel. | ||
| - | | Aftermarket (L) and factory (R) plug comparisons ((photos by jordan1200 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2068069&page=9)) ||| | + | |The head may be larger than the original but it can be ground to fit with a bench grinder. ((photos by Jordan 1200 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2068069&page=9))||| |
| - | |{{:techtalk:ref:engmech:aftermarket_drain_plug_1_by_jordan_1200.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:engmech:aftermarket_drain_plug_4_by_jordan_1200.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:engmech:aftermarket_drain_plug_5_by_jordan_1200.jpg?direct&300|}}| | + | |{{:techtalk:ref:engmech:aftermarket_drain_plug_1_by_jordan_1200.jpg?direct&200|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:engmech:aftermarket_drain_plug_4_by_jordan_1200.jpg?direct&200|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:engmech:aftermarket_drain_plug_5_by_jordan_1200.jpg?direct&200|}}| |
| - | | Factory plug app. head dia. ((photo by jordan1200 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2068069&page=9)) | This aftermarket plug has a slightly wider head \\ which can be sanded or grinded down to fit ((photo by jordan1200 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2068069&page=9)) | External hex head aftermarket drain plug installed ((photo by jordan1200 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2068069&page=9)) | | + | |Measure the heads on the old and new plug, grind the new one if needed. ((photos by Jordan 1200 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2068069&page=9))||| |
| - | |{{:techtalk:ref:engmech:aftermarket_drain_plug_2_by_jordan_1200.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:engmech:aftermarket_drain_plug_3_by_jordan_1200.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:engmech:aftermarket_drain_plug_6_by_jordan_1200.jpg?direct&300|}}| | + | |{{:techtalk:ref:engmech:aftermarket_drain_plug_2_by_jordan_1200.jpg?direct&200|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:engmech:aftermarket_drain_plug_3_by_jordan_1200.jpg?direct&200|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:engmech:aftermarket_drain_plug_6_by_jordan_1200.jpg?direct&200|}}| |
| Line 203: | Line 201: | ||
| * **Hand Reamer**: All hand reamers have a long taper (to help you center up in the hole) which is too long for this application. Obtaining center and keeping a straight hole will need to be done with a 5/8" bushing instead. | * **Hand Reamer**: All hand reamers have a long taper (to help you center up in the hole) which is too long for this application. Obtaining center and keeping a straight hole will need to be done with a 5/8" bushing instead. | ||
| - | ===== Cutting New Threads for a Pipe Plug ===== | + | ===== Tapping Threads for a Bigger Plug ===== |
| * You can re-thread the case hole with a 1/4" NPT pipe tap and change to a regular pipe plug. ((MTD of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1541235&highlight=colony+plug&page=2)) | * You can re-thread the case hole with a 1/4" NPT pipe tap and change to a regular pipe plug. ((MTD of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1541235&highlight=colony+plug&page=2)) | ||
| + | * This '71 XLCH case was tapped for a M20 X 1.5 drain plug. | ||
| + | |||
| + | |{{:techtalk:ref:engmech:aftermarket_timing_plug_on_71_xlch_by_whitewalls.jpg?direct&400|}}| | ||
| + | | Aftermarket drain plug on a '71 XLCH ((phot by Whitewalls of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1988710&highlight=tapping+threads)) | | ||
| + | ===== Installing Thread Inserts ===== | ||
| + | See also [[techtalk:evo:engmech01a|91-03 Timing Inspection Hole and Plug Pics and App. Dims]] to help in deciding what size inserts you need. | ||
| \\ | \\ | ||
