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techtalk:ref:engmech01a [2018/07/07 03:03] hippysmack [Temporary Repair Options] |
techtalk:ref:engmech01a [2020/04/28 22:53] hippysmack ↷ Links adapted because of a move operation |
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| ====== REF: Engine Mechanicals - Sub-01A ====== | ====== REF: Engine Mechanicals - Sub-01A ====== | ||
| ====== Timing Inspection Hole and Plug - Sealing and Thread Repair ====== | ====== Timing Inspection Hole and Plug - Sealing and Thread Repair ====== | ||
| - | This is a common problem with all Sportsters. It doesn't matter if you’re working on an Ironhead or Evo, the problems and solutions are all the same. | + | This is a common problem with all 57-03 Sportsters. It doesn't matter if you’re working on an Ironhead or Evo, drain plug or timing inspection plug. The problems and solutions are all the same. |
| ====== Common Causes of Stripped or Damaged Threads ====== | ====== Common Causes of Stripped or Damaged Threads ====== | ||
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| ====== Leaking Oil From the Plug ====== | ====== Leaking Oil From the Plug ====== | ||
| - | If your plug is not loose and will tighten up, you may have some warped threads that aren't allowing the flat surface on the back of the plug head to seal against the flat machined outer surface of the case. Over tightening from here will damage the threads even more. ((Hippysmack)) | + | See [[techtalk:ref:engmech01d#leaking_oil_from_the_drain_timing_plug|Leaking Oil From the Drain / Timing Plug]] in the Sportsterpedia. |
| - | * Try pulling the plug, clean the threads and use some anti-seize on them. The anti-seize should seal up the threads as long as the crank case isn't building pressure and causing it to push some seepage out. ((wedge of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1958781&highlight=timing+hole+plug)) Teflon tape can also be used on the threads to prevent leakage. | + | ===== Temporary Repair Options ===== |
| + | In an emergency or as patch until you can have a permanent solution done, here are some possible ideas in the Sportsterpedia to keep you riding ([[techtalk:ref:engmech01d#drain_plug_sealing_and_temporary_fixes|Drain Plug Sealing and Temporary Fixes]]). A temporary repair is just that. It may blow out at any time. It's best to have a spare with you in case the current temporary fix blows out, especially if your away from home. ((RigidIronhead of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1541235&highlight=colony+plug&page=2)) | ||
| ====== Installing the Plug ====== | ====== Installing the Plug ====== | ||
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| * Try [[techtalk:ref:engmech01a#cutting_new_threads_for_an_oversized_plug|Cutting new threads for an oversized plug]]. | * Try [[techtalk:ref:engmech01a#cutting_new_threads_for_an_oversized_plug|Cutting new threads for an oversized plug]]. | ||
| ===== Chasing the Existing Threads ===== | ===== Chasing the Existing Threads ===== | ||
| - | See also the [[techtalk:ref:notes104|warped or damaged thread repair]] section of the Sportsterpedia. | + | See also the [[techtalk:ref:tools023|warped or damaged thread repair]] section of the Sportsterpedia. |
| * A tap and a die is normally used to chase the threads in the case and on the plug respectively back to their original shape / cleanliness and usually done with plenty of good cutting oil. \\ However, for this application, fluidity can be detriment to the cause. With the small amount of threads on the plug and the imminent danger of getting cut shavings (swarf) into the engine case thru the timing hole, it is best to use thick lube or even axle grease to lube the tap to chase the case threads. \\ While chasing the threads, your following the existing 'centered' thread pattern. ((Hippysmack http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2068069&page=3)) \\ You only have to run the tap in far enough to clear the length of the plug, not to the end of the case threads. \\ | * A tap and a die is normally used to chase the threads in the case and on the plug respectively back to their original shape / cleanliness and usually done with plenty of good cutting oil. \\ However, for this application, fluidity can be detriment to the cause. With the small amount of threads on the plug and the imminent danger of getting cut shavings (swarf) into the engine case thru the timing hole, it is best to use thick lube or even axle grease to lube the tap to chase the case threads. \\ While chasing the threads, your following the existing 'centered' thread pattern. ((Hippysmack http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2068069&page=3)) \\ You only have to run the tap in far enough to clear the length of the plug, not to the end of the case threads. \\ | ||
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| |**5/8"x18 NF 'bottoming' hand tap** for the case threads \\ (which is flat on the end with a short a taper)|**5/8"x18 NF die** for the plug| | |**5/8"x18 NF 'bottoming' hand tap** for the case threads \\ (which is flat on the end with a short a taper)|**5/8"x18 NF die** for the plug| | ||
| - | |{{:techtalk:ref:notes:5-8x18_bottoming_tap_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&400|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:notes:5-8x18_die_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&400|}}| | + | |{{techtalk:ref:svcproc:5-8x18_bottoming_tap_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&400|}}|{{techtalk:ref:svcproc:5-8x18_die_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&400|}}| |
| * **Choosing the right tap** | * **Choosing the right tap** | ||
