Differences
This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.
| Both sides previous revision Previous revision Next revision | Previous revision Next revision Both sides next revision | ||
|
techtalk:ref:engmech01e [2018/07/07 00:56] hippysmack [Timing Inspection Plug / Drain Plug Sealing and Temporary Fixes] |
techtalk:ref:engmech01e [2018/07/07 15:53] hippysmack created |
||
|---|---|---|---|
| Line 1: | Line 1: | ||
| [[:techtalk:menu|{{ :techtalk:gototechnicalmenu.jpg|}}]] | [[:techtalk:menu|{{ :techtalk:gototechnicalmenu.jpg|}}]] | ||
| ====== REF: Engine Mechanicals - Sub-01E ====== | ====== REF: Engine Mechanicals - Sub-01E ====== | ||
| - | ====== Timing Inspection Plug / Drain Plug Sealing and Temporary Fixes ====== | + | ====== Installing a Helicoil on a Drain Plug with the Engine in the Frame ====== |
| + | Article by Freewheeler of the XLFORUM ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1852458)) | ||
| - | A tight mechanical seal on any of these plugs is what was intended originally from the MoCo as evident of how the plug was constructed. \\ However, when one of them leaks, it's not always cost efficient or convenient to have the threads repaired especially if your on the road with a bad leaking or blown out plug. | + | * Lay the bike over on it's side on a sheet or blanket for protection. |
| + | * Slip some plywood under the sheet if your on asphalt or concrete to keep from scratching things. | ||
| - | * Below is a collection of ideas for sealing up the plug until a solid mechanical seal can done. \\ If the health of the threads on the plug or in the case are questionable, only tighten the plug to just snug, plus a little. | + | {{:techtalk:ih:engmech:primary_drain_plug_repair_1_by_freewheeler.jpg?direct&400|}} ((photo by Freewheeler of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1852458&highlight=stripped+plug)) {{:techtalk:ih:engmech:drain_plug_repair_1_by_xlchjoe.jpg?direct&400|}} ((photo by xlchjoe of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1200190&page=58)) |
| - | {{:techtalk:ref:engmech:drain_plug_fixes_by_sevenyears_of_famine.jpg?direct&400|}} ((photo by sevenyears of famine of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1461031&highlight=stripped+primary+drain&page=4)) | + | * Using a drill with a handle will help keep the hole square. The hole needs to be good and straight for the new plug to seal. |
| + | * Before drilling, the hole was packed with grease and a small piece of stainless was put on the other side to keep from drilling \\ anything and (hopefully) stopping some of the chips from falling further into the engine. ((photos by Freewheeler of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1852458&highlight=stripped+plug)) | ||
| - | * **Try a thread wrap just under the head of the plug**. \\ Use only enough to get a seal. Using too much could crack the case from the extra pre-load plus normal torque. | + | {{:techtalk:ih:engmech:primary_drain_plug_repair_3_by_freewheeler.jpg?direct&300|}} {{:techtalk:ih:engmech:primary_drain_plug_repair_4_by_freewheeler.jpg?direct&300|}} |
| - | * Wrap some sewing string just below the head of the plug. ((ezmerf http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1676274&page=3)) | + | |
| - | * Wrap some Teflon tape below the head. It's intended use is for tapered pipe threads, ((rivethog http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1676274&page=3)) and the OEM plugs use straight threads. | + | |
| - | * **Try a thread sealant**. Clean the plug and the hole of all oil and debris to get a good sealant hold. | + | * This Helicoil kit (1/2" UNF) was used. ((photos by Freewheeler of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1852458&highlight=stripped+plug)) |
| - | * If the threads are not stripped (as in a bad sealing surface causing the leak), Loctite (blue) can be used as a sealant between the threads. \\ However, if the threads are stripped or are in bad shape, they may break off upon the next removal of the plug. | + | |
| - | * Cover the plug with silicone, put the plug in the hole, turn it to get a wedged fit and let it dry. | + | |
| - | * Cover the plug with JB weld and let it set for about 2 days. ((Pan55 http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1810875&highlight=stripped+plug)) (you might want to use something else if you plan to remove the plug later). | + | |
| - | * Cover the plug with RTV (black for oil). ((MRMIKEY32 http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1461031&highlight=stripped+primary+drain&page=2)) | + | |
| - | * **Add a washer or O-ring to the plug** to bridge the gap between poor sealing surfaces. \\ The I.D of the hole needs to correctly match the O.D. of the plug to keep the washer sealing surface on center with the hole. \\ When using a soft washer like neoprene, rubber, fiber or nylon (plastic), first add a steel washer (if you have room) to spread the load on the soft one to keep it from distorting and possibly leaking. | + | {{:techtalk:ref:tools:helicoil_kit_by_freewheeler.jpg?direct&300|}} {{:techtalk:ih:engmech:primary_drain_plug_repair_5_by_freewheeler.jpg?direct&300|}} |
| - | * Copper washers work well for sealing and the thin ones work much better than the thick ones. They meld in there better. ((Iron Mick http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1461031&highlight=stripped+primary+drain)) | + | |
| - | * **Source a temporary or alternate plug**. | + | * Tapped straight, cleaned up with the Helicoil installed. ((photos by Freewheeler of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1852458&highlight=stripped+plug)) |
| - | * A cork in the hole has been used with various results. Be sure to have an extra or two on hand in the case that the first one blows out. | + | * With a pair of extremely sharp cutters, a couple of turns were cut off the insert before winding it into the case to shorten it.((photos by Freewheeler of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1852458&highlight=stripped+plug)) |
| - | * Put a rubber expansion plug (like the ones used for auto freeze plugs) the hole. ((Racepres http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1676274&page=3)) | + | |
| - | * Cut a (same thread size) bolt down to the length of the (measured) hole. Making it a bit longer than the original plug, should allow you to catch the last bit of original threads where the shorter plug wouldn't. Measure up in the hole and don't make it too long to protrude inside the engine and catch on moving parts. ((Hopper http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1461031&highlight=stripped+primary+drain&page=2)) | + | |
| + | {{:techtalk:ref:tools:tap_wrench_by_freewheeler.jpg?direct&400|}} {{:techtalk:ih:engmech:primary_drain_plug_repair_7_by_freewheeler.jpg?direct&400|}} | ||
| + | * The new drain plug was fabricated using an ordinary bolt (1/2" UNF) and a spare magnet. | ||
| + | * The end of the bolt was drilled out and the magnet was glued in with some impact adhesive. | ||
| + | * Finished it up with a copper washer on the bolt (not pictured). ((photos by Freewheeler of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1852458&highlight=stripped+plug)) | ||
| + | |||
| + | {{:techtalk:ih:engmech:primary_drain_plug_repair_8_by_freewheeler..jpg?direct&300|}} {{:techtalk:ih:engmech:primary_drain_plug_repair_9_by_freewheeler.jpg?direct&300|}} {{:techtalk:ih:engmech:primary_drain_plug_repair_10_by_freewheeler..jpg?direct&300|}} | ||
