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techtalk:ref:engmech01l [2018/05/06 01:40] hippysmack [Making Your Own TDC Mark in the Crankshaft (03 and prior engines)] |
techtalk:ref:engmech01l [2020/01/14 00:47] (current) ixl2relax [REF: Engine Mechanicals - Sub-01C] |
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| [[:techtalk:menu|{{ :techtalk:gototechnicalmenu.jpg|}}]] | [[:techtalk:menu|{{ :techtalk:gototechnicalmenu.jpg|}}]] | ||
| - | ====== REF: Engine Mechanicals - Sub-01C ====== | + | ====== REF: Engine Mechanicals - Sub-01L ====== |
| - | ====== Making Your Own TDC Mark in the Crankshaft (03 and prior engines) ====== | + | ====== Making Your Own TDC Mark on the Flywheel (03 and prior engines) ====== |
| * When upgrading a 2003 or earlier engine with a 2004 and up crankshaft, you'll need to create your own timing mark as these will not have one. Base timing on 04 and up is set in the programmable Engine Control Module (ECM) using a CKP Sensor at the flywheel teeth. | * When upgrading a 2003 or earlier engine with a 2004 and up crankshaft, you'll need to create your own timing mark as these will not have one. Base timing on 04 and up is set in the programmable Engine Control Module (ECM) using a CKP Sensor at the flywheel teeth. | ||
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| * Arguably, the best tool to use to achieve true TDC is a dial gauge whether you hang it from a post or use a depth gauge doesn't matter as long as you can make it stable where it doesn't move. How much it takes to move the gauge depends on how you intend to turn the engine over. Turning the rear wheel will jostle the entire bike and engine, while turning the crankshaft alone yields little to no movement of the engine case. | * Arguably, the best tool to use to achieve true TDC is a dial gauge whether you hang it from a post or use a depth gauge doesn't matter as long as you can make it stable where it doesn't move. How much it takes to move the gauge depends on how you intend to turn the engine over. Turning the rear wheel will jostle the entire bike and engine, while turning the crankshaft alone yields little to no movement of the engine case. | ||
| - | * A dial depth gauge will probably not work for single plug heads as there is no positive placement where it will stay put while working. | + | * This dial depth gauge will probably not work for single plug heads as there is no positive placement where it will stay put while working. |
| * Check the length of probe needed on the dial gauge prior to setting it in the plug hole by using a straw in the hole and turning the engine to get the approximate TDC. | * Check the length of probe needed on the dial gauge prior to setting it in the plug hole by using a straw in the hole and turning the engine to get the approximate TDC. | ||
| * Use a rounded probe end (not the pointer type) so it will slide up when the piston contacts it instead of getting stuck and binding up. | * Use a rounded probe end (not the pointer type) so it will slide up when the piston contacts it instead of getting stuck and binding up. | ||
| |You can do a pre-length check by bringing the piston to the top with a straw through the spark plug hole. ((photos by Hippysmack)) \\ This will tell you about how long of a probe you need while also allowing for the distance of throw on \\ your specific gauge.|| | |You can do a pre-length check by bringing the piston to the top with a straw through the spark plug hole. ((photos by Hippysmack)) \\ This will tell you about how long of a probe you need while also allowing for the distance of throw on \\ your specific gauge.|| | ||
| - | |{{:techtalk:ref:notes:tdc_with_straw_1_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:engmech:timing_mark_1_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}| | + | |{{techtalk:ref:tools:tdc_with_straw_1_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ref:engmech:timing_mark_1_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&300|}}| |
| ===== Setting up your gauge ===== | ===== Setting up your gauge ===== | ||
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| * **Use a sharp drill bit** (test how it cuts a scrap metal piece first) lubed with thick grease or oil to catch the shavings and not let them get into the engine case. | * **Use a sharp drill bit** (test how it cuts a scrap metal piece first) lubed with thick grease or oil to catch the shavings and not let them get into the engine case. | ||
| * A dull bit will take longer to drill the dimple while creating more heat to melt the grease and let chips fly. | * A dull bit will take longer to drill the dimple while creating more heat to melt the grease and let chips fly. | ||
| - | * **Use a variable speed drill** on very low speed. You just want to make a dimple, there is no need for speed here. | + | * **Use a variable speed drill** __on very low speed__. You just want to make a dimple, there is no need for speed here. More speed will also create more heat and sling the melted grease and chips. |
| |Do not tap too hard on the punch which could result in crank / rod bearing damage. Clean the bit and check the mark. ((photos by Hippysmack))||| | |Do not tap too hard on the punch which could result in crank / rod bearing damage. Clean the bit and check the mark. ((photos by Hippysmack))||| | ||
