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--- techtalk:ref:genmsr11 [2019/04/01 18:46]
hippysmack [Cutting Oils, Soaking Oils and Lubes]
+++ techtalk:ref:genmsr11 [2021/05/22 02:59]
hippysmack [Cutting Oils, Soaking Oils and Lubes]
@@ Line 2: / Line 2: @@
 ====== REF: General-MSR 11 ======
-====== Cutting Oils, Soaking Oils and Lubes ======
+====== Cutting Oils, Penetrating Oils and Lubes ======
-See also [[techtalk:ref:tools123#wet_torque_value_chart_for_lubed_threads|Wet Torque Value Chart for Lubed Threads]] in the Tool section of the Sportsterpedia. \\
+See also [[techtalk:ref:tools025#wet_torque_value_chart_for_lubed_threads_from_allied_systems|Wet Torque Value Chart for Lubed Threads]] in the Tool section of the Sportsterpedia. \\
   * Everybody has a favorite cutting oil that used to be better than it is now or is out of production. There may have been recent performance issues with the existing oil or something has changed in the manufacturing process that precludes its use. new machines, additional contracts, changing environmental concerns, product cancellations, sustainability goals and other factors can all combine to limit the effectiveness or applicability of the current oil. ((http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29574/choose-cutting-oil))
@@ Line 29: / Line 29: @@
       * Bees Wax has a much higher flash point then oil, will not burn to carbon like oil causing the fastener to become more stuck.  ((old guy with kmodel of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die))
+====== Penetrating Oil ======
+    * **Chemical attacks are not instantaneous events**; Pop would, when working a bolt on his Model A, often squirt the bolt once a day for two weeks, then give it a rap to try to loosen corrosion before walking it out conventionally. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. ((chuckspeed of the XLFOUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=614423&highlight=tap+die))
+    * **Even a good penetrating oil sometimes just needs time**. First, follow the label on your choice of oil. A rule of thumb is a 24 hour soak, followed by a few taps with a hammer or rubber mallet to set up some vibration in the threads to distribute oil and friction. This procedure can be duplicated as often as you feel comfortable with and it depends entirely on your time frame allowed. It's not possible to nail down a set day(s) or hour(s) as every situation and climate is different.
+    * **The chemical saturation starts with a good penetrating oil**. There are lots of good products for loosening stuck bolts including but not limited to:
+      * P'B Blaster
+      * Kroil
+      * Liquid Wrench
+      * Tap Magic is a cutting oil but works wonders for deep penetration
+      * WD-40 is not considered a good penetrating oil, but if the bolt can be turned just a pinch (left or right) and back then you can squirt this into the threads on every turn and it may help but your still better off using penetrating oil instead. ((hippysmack of the XLFORUM))
+      * A 50:50 solution of Acetone and Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) (or power steering fluid) has been floated around shops and the internet for years for a rust penetrant. ((https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/ot-penetrating-oil-196347/))
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