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techtalk:ref:tools023 [2019/08/01 01:29] hippysmack [Time-Sert repair on engine case using drill press] |
techtalk:ref:tools023 [2022/01/18 01:50] hippysmack [Using taps / dies to chase debris out of the threads] |
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| [[:techtalk:menu|{{ :techtalk:gototechnicalmenu.jpg|}}]] | [[:techtalk:menu|{{ :techtalk:gototechnicalmenu.jpg|}}]] | ||
| - | ====== REF: General-MSR 36 ====== | + | ====== REF: Tools & Fasteners ====== |
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| ====== Cross Threading ====== | ====== Cross Threading ====== | ||
| The actual failure mechanism of a drain plug: ((DR Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4302785&postcount=10)) | The actual failure mechanism of a drain plug: ((DR Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4302785&postcount=10)) | ||
| - | |{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:cross_threaded_drain_plug_by_dr_dick.jpg?direct&300|}} ((DR Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4302785&postcount=10))| | + | |{{techtalk:ref:tools:cross_threaded_drain_plug_by_dr_dick.jpg?direct&300|}} ((DR Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4302785&postcount=10))| |
| * So when you loosen the plug the upper partially fractured (cast alum don't like flexing) threads will "move back in position" as the plug reengages the 'good' lower threads. ((DR Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4302785&postcount=10)) | * So when you loosen the plug the upper partially fractured (cast alum don't like flexing) threads will "move back in position" as the plug reengages the 'good' lower threads. ((DR Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4302785&postcount=10)) | ||
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| And chasing them with standard size taps / dies simply widens that clearance to standard sizes. \\ | And chasing them with standard size taps / dies simply widens that clearance to standard sizes. \\ | ||
| - | **Standard tap and dies** have sharp cutting edges. \\ | + | **Standard tap and dies** have sharp cutting edges. \\\ |
| - | If the threads have not been warped or damaged; \\ | + | If the threads have not been warped or damaged, a die will cut through and remove sealants on bolt threads. \\ |
| - | A die will cut through and remove sealants on bolt threads. \\ | + | Likewise, a tap will cut through and remove grime and dried up sealants in the existing threads. \\ |
| - | Likewise, a tap will cut through and remove sealants on hole threads. \\ | + | There are some holes, however, that are purposely tapped undersize at the factory. \\ |
| + | Running a standard tap in those holes opens the holes up. \\ | ||
| + | (also the low quality taps from the do-it-yourself store are not held to the cutting tolerance that real ground thread H or L limit taps possess) \\ | ||
| + | |||
| + | * Some factory undersize tapped holes on 1957-1976 motors: ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1888378&page=6)) | ||
| + | * Oil pump studs | ||
| + | * Cylinder base studs | ||
| + | * Rear motor mount studs | ||
| + | * Tool box stud | ||
| **Roll form tap and dies** have rounded cutting edges. \\ | **Roll form tap and dies** have rounded cutting edges. \\ | ||
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| * Individual threads on a bolt or a threaded hole could have been warped due to material composite, heat, initial torque. \\ (and pressure applied during (previous) normal operation. \\ Warp-age could have been been increased from too much initial torque and / or uneven initial torque all around on the piece that had been installed. | * Individual threads on a bolt or a threaded hole could have been warped due to material composite, heat, initial torque. \\ (and pressure applied during (previous) normal operation. \\ Warp-age could have been been increased from too much initial torque and / or uneven initial torque all around on the piece that had been installed. | ||
| * That said, these bolts and threaded holes were initially threaded (internal or external respectively) with taps and dies. \\ Consequently, taps and dies are used to chase the holes / clean the bolts back to their original shape / cleanliness and done with plenty of good cutting oil. | * That said, these bolts and threaded holes were initially threaded (internal or external respectively) with taps and dies. \\ Consequently, taps and dies are used to chase the holes / clean the bolts back to their original shape / cleanliness and done with plenty of good cutting oil. | ||
| - | * Roll Form Taps- used to pressure form threads in softer material like aluminum. \\ Roll form taps are used to "restore" damaged threads. \\ They work well because they will actually push the metal back to shape as opposed to cutting it away. \\ **Word of caution**: they use a lot of force and are way easier to break so don't get to western with them. \\ Use plenty of oil and steady pressure. \\ Turn in 2 or 3 turns, back off 1 or 2 turns to allow the pressure to come off and if you are using a cut tap the cut material needs to come out. \\ Another word of caution, when you buy taps and dies, sometimes you get what you pay for. ((corkman8086 from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=739536&highlight=chasing+threads)) \\ {{:techtalk:ref:tools:craftsman_52105_thread_repair_kit_by_shadowdog500.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=221093&highlight=split+rocker+box)) | + | * Roll Form Taps- used to pressure form threads in softer material like aluminum. \\ Roll form taps are used to "restore" damaged threads. \\ They work well because they will actually push the metal back to shape as opposed to cutting it away. \\ **Word of caution**: they use a lot of force and are way easier to break so don't get to western with them. \\ Use plenty of oil and steady pressure. \\ Turn in 2 or 3 turns, back off 1 or 2 turns to allow the pressure to come off and if you are using a cut tap the cut material needs to come out. \\ Another word of caution, when you buy taps and dies, sometimes you get what you pay for. ((corkman8086 from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=739536&highlight=chasing+threads)) \\ A Craftsman master rethreading kit (52105) looks like a tap and die set but the threading doesn't have the sharp cutting edge. \\ They are great for cleaning the crud out of threads and straightening out slightly mangled threads. \\ (by pushing them straight again without removing any material) \\ The kit comes with thread files that come in handy to clean up threads. \\ If these don't work, then you can use the regular tap and dies. \\ Methodically chasing existing threads is never a bad idea. \\ You just have to make sure you are using the correct size tool and don't get in a hurry and cross thread a tap and really screw things up. \\ Harbor freight may have a cheaper thread chasing kit. \\ |
| + | {{:techtalk:ref:tools:craftsman_52105_thread_repair_kit_by_shadowdog500.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=221093&highlight=split+rocker+box)) | ||
| * While chasing the bolts / holes you will experience metal shavings coming out of the holes and down the bolts. \\ This is normal and how much depends how much damage has been applied to them. \\ You are in fact re-shaping these to back to their original shape. \\ There really isn't much reason to replace a bolt other than cosmetics or rot unless it cannot be re-threaded or has been overly torque stressed. \\ This is a condition in which, on the way to final torque, the bolt begins to stretch or twist from it's protruding center. \\ (but not threading any longer into the hole as Evo cylinder head bolts can do) ((hippysmack from the XLFORUM)) | * While chasing the bolts / holes you will experience metal shavings coming out of the holes and down the bolts. \\ This is normal and how much depends how much damage has been applied to them. \\ You are in fact re-shaping these to back to their original shape. \\ There really isn't much reason to replace a bolt other than cosmetics or rot unless it cannot be re-threaded or has been overly torque stressed. \\ This is a condition in which, on the way to final torque, the bolt begins to stretch or twist from it's protruding center. \\ (but not threading any longer into the hole as Evo cylinder head bolts can do) ((hippysmack from the XLFORUM)) | ||
| * There are different methods to tapping / chasing holes depending on the situation. | * There are different methods to tapping / chasing holes depending on the situation. | ||
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| * You can send a pin needle or the like down to the bottom of the hole to see if there is any embedded crap at the bottom. ((ReddTigger from the XLFORUM [[http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?postid=5373930#post5373930]])) | * You can send a pin needle or the like down to the bottom of the hole to see if there is any embedded crap at the bottom. ((ReddTigger from the XLFORUM [[http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?postid=5373930#post5373930]])) | ||
| + | | Chasing cam cover threads. ((photo by AnaChris of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1725973&highlight=oil+pump&page=11)) | | ||
| + | |{{:techtalk:ref:tools:chasing_threads_by_anachris.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| ===== Thread File ===== | ===== Thread File ===== | ||
| * This tool is a cross between a tap, a die and a file. | * This tool is a cross between a tap, a die and a file. | ||
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| A jig (or guide) may come in a kit with the insert to help with that or they can be purchased or machined separately. \\ | A jig (or guide) may come in a kit with the insert to help with that or they can be purchased or machined separately. \\ | ||
| - | {{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_15_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1704056)) | + | {{techtalk:evo:engmech:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_15_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1704056)) |
| Line 102: | Line 113: | ||
| |This drill guide was machined for use on a cylinder stud hole reair ((photos by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1704056))|| | |This drill guide was machined for use on a cylinder stud hole reair ((photos by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1704056))|| | ||
| - | |{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_2_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_3_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}}| | + | |{{techtalk:evo:engmech:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_2_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:evo:engmech:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_3_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}}| |
| ===== Using a Stop Collar on a Drill Bit ===== | ===== Using a Stop Collar on a Drill Bit ===== | ||
| - | Stop collars can be purchased at most hardware stores and function as a depth gauge for the drill bit. \\ | + | Stop collars (drill stop) can be purchased at most hardware stores and function as a depth gauge for the drill bit. \\ |
| The collar is attached to the bit by a set screw. \\ | The collar is attached to the bit by a set screw. \\ | ||
| Once installed, in theory, you can't drill past the collar which sets the depth of the bit. \\ | Once installed, in theory, you can't drill past the collar which sets the depth of the bit. \\ | ||
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| | Drill Bit Stop Collar ((photo by Graywolf of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1797431&page=2)) | | | Drill Bit Stop Collar ((photo by Graywolf of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1797431&page=2)) | | ||
| - | |{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:drill_bit_stop_collar_by_graywolf.jpg?direct&300|}}| | + | |{{techtalk:ref:tools:drill_bit_stop_collar_by_graywolf.jpg?direct&300|}}| |
| ===== Helicoil Inserts ===== | ===== Helicoil Inserts ===== | ||
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| - | ==== Time-Sert repair on engine case using drill press ==== | ||
| - | Article by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1704056)) \\ | ||
| - | Click on a pic to enlarge: \\ | ||
| - | |||
| - | To repair a stripped cylinder stud. \\ | ||
| - | Below, only the first few threads in the stud hole are stripped. \\ | ||
| - | This agrees with the assumption that only the first couple of threads do most of the holding. \\ | ||
| - | |||
| - | {{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_1_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1704056)) \\ | ||
| - | |||
| - | There are many different options for fixing the stripped stud. This one was repaired using a Time-Sert kit. \\ | ||
| - | You can buy a drilling jig that will center the drill bit but it is expensive. \\ | ||
| - | You also build a jig using an old cylinder with the bottom cut off then use the top as a jig plate to precisely hold the drill. \\ | ||
| - | On the left is a drill guide (sleeve to keep the drill bit straight) and a drill bit held with a tap wrench. \\ | ||
| - | On the right, with the drill guide on the engine, drill bottomed out on the top of the case, the insert is longer than the amount protruding. \\ | ||
| - | The included bit with the kit wouldn't work using the guide. \\ | ||
| - | |||
| - | |{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_2_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_3_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
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