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techtalk:ref:tools023 [2019/08/01 02:52] hippysmack [Time-Sert repair on engine case using drill press] |
techtalk:ref:tools023 [2022/01/18 01:50] hippysmack [Using taps / dies to chase debris out of the threads] |
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| [[:techtalk:menu|{{ :techtalk:gototechnicalmenu.jpg|}}]] | [[:techtalk:menu|{{ :techtalk:gototechnicalmenu.jpg|}}]] | ||
| - | ====== REF: General-MSR 36 ====== | + | ====== REF: Tools & Fasteners ====== |
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| ====== Cross Threading ====== | ====== Cross Threading ====== | ||
| The actual failure mechanism of a drain plug: ((DR Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4302785&postcount=10)) | The actual failure mechanism of a drain plug: ((DR Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4302785&postcount=10)) | ||
| - | |{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:cross_threaded_drain_plug_by_dr_dick.jpg?direct&300|}} ((DR Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4302785&postcount=10))| | + | |{{techtalk:ref:tools:cross_threaded_drain_plug_by_dr_dick.jpg?direct&300|}} ((DR Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4302785&postcount=10))| |
| * So when you loosen the plug the upper partially fractured (cast alum don't like flexing) threads will "move back in position" as the plug reengages the 'good' lower threads. ((DR Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4302785&postcount=10)) | * So when you loosen the plug the upper partially fractured (cast alum don't like flexing) threads will "move back in position" as the plug reengages the 'good' lower threads. ((DR Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4302785&postcount=10)) | ||
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| And chasing them with standard size taps / dies simply widens that clearance to standard sizes. \\ | And chasing them with standard size taps / dies simply widens that clearance to standard sizes. \\ | ||
| - | **Standard tap and dies** have sharp cutting edges. \\ | + | **Standard tap and dies** have sharp cutting edges. \\\ |
| - | If the threads have not been warped or damaged; \\ | + | If the threads have not been warped or damaged, a die will cut through and remove sealants on bolt threads. \\ |
| - | A die will cut through and remove sealants on bolt threads. \\ | + | Likewise, a tap will cut through and remove grime and dried up sealants in the existing threads. \\ |
| - | Likewise, a tap will cut through and remove sealants on hole threads. \\ | + | There are some holes, however, that are purposely tapped undersize at the factory. \\ |
| + | Running a standard tap in those holes opens the holes up. \\ | ||
| + | (also the low quality taps from the do-it-yourself store are not held to the cutting tolerance that real ground thread H or L limit taps possess) \\ | ||
| + | |||
| + | * Some factory undersize tapped holes on 1957-1976 motors: ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1888378&page=6)) | ||
| + | * Oil pump studs | ||
| + | * Cylinder base studs | ||
| + | * Rear motor mount studs | ||
| + | * Tool box stud | ||
| **Roll form tap and dies** have rounded cutting edges. \\ | **Roll form tap and dies** have rounded cutting edges. \\ | ||
| Line 61: | Line 69: | ||
| * Individual threads on a bolt or a threaded hole could have been warped due to material composite, heat, initial torque. \\ (and pressure applied during (previous) normal operation. \\ Warp-age could have been been increased from too much initial torque and / or uneven initial torque all around on the piece that had been installed. | * Individual threads on a bolt or a threaded hole could have been warped due to material composite, heat, initial torque. \\ (and pressure applied during (previous) normal operation. \\ Warp-age could have been been increased from too much initial torque and / or uneven initial torque all around on the piece that had been installed. | ||
| * That said, these bolts and threaded holes were initially threaded (internal or external respectively) with taps and dies. \\ Consequently, taps and dies are used to chase the holes / clean the bolts back to their original shape / cleanliness and done with plenty of good cutting oil. | * That said, these bolts and threaded holes were initially threaded (internal or external respectively) with taps and dies. \\ Consequently, taps and dies are used to chase the holes / clean the bolts back to their original shape / cleanliness and done with plenty of good cutting oil. | ||
| - | * Roll Form Taps- used to pressure form threads in softer material like aluminum. \\ Roll form taps are used to "restore" damaged threads. \\ They work well because they will actually push the metal back to shape as opposed to cutting it away. \\ **Word of caution**: they use a lot of force and are way easier to break so don't get to western with them. \\ Use plenty of oil and steady pressure. \\ Turn in 2 or 3 turns, back off 1 or 2 turns to allow the pressure to come off and if you are using a cut tap the cut material needs to come out. \\ Another word of caution, when you buy taps and dies, sometimes you get what you pay for. ((corkman8086 from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=739536&highlight=chasing+threads)) \\ {{:techtalk:ref:tools:craftsman_52105_thread_repair_kit_by_shadowdog500.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=221093&highlight=split+rocker+box)) | + | * Roll Form Taps- used to pressure form threads in softer material like aluminum. \\ Roll form taps are used to "restore" damaged threads. \\ They work well because they will actually push the metal back to shape as opposed to cutting it away. \\ **Word of caution**: they use a lot of force and are way easier to break so don't get to western with them. \\ Use plenty of oil and steady pressure. \\ Turn in 2 or 3 turns, back off 1 or 2 turns to allow the pressure to come off and if you are using a cut tap the cut material needs to come out. \\ Another word of caution, when you buy taps and dies, sometimes you get what you pay for. ((corkman8086 from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=739536&highlight=chasing+threads)) \\ A Craftsman master rethreading kit (52105) looks like a tap and die set but the threading doesn't have the sharp cutting edge. \\ They are great for cleaning the crud out of threads and straightening out slightly mangled threads. \\ (by pushing them straight again without removing any material) \\ The kit comes with thread files that come in handy to clean up threads. \\ If these don't work, then you can use the regular tap and dies. \\ Methodically chasing existing threads is never a bad idea. \\ You just have to make sure you are using the correct size tool and don't get in a hurry and cross thread a tap and really screw things up. \\ Harbor freight may have a cheaper thread chasing kit. \\ |
| + | {{:techtalk:ref:tools:craftsman_52105_thread_repair_kit_by_shadowdog500.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by Shadowdog500 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=221093&highlight=split+rocker+box)) | ||
| * While chasing the bolts / holes you will experience metal shavings coming out of the holes and down the bolts. \\ This is normal and how much depends how much damage has been applied to them. \\ You are in fact re-shaping these to back to their original shape. \\ There really isn't much reason to replace a bolt other than cosmetics or rot unless it cannot be re-threaded or has been overly torque stressed. \\ This is a condition in which, on the way to final torque, the bolt begins to stretch or twist from it's protruding center. \\ (but not threading any longer into the hole as Evo cylinder head bolts can do) ((hippysmack from the XLFORUM)) | * While chasing the bolts / holes you will experience metal shavings coming out of the holes and down the bolts. \\ This is normal and how much depends how much damage has been applied to them. \\ You are in fact re-shaping these to back to their original shape. \\ There really isn't much reason to replace a bolt other than cosmetics or rot unless it cannot be re-threaded or has been overly torque stressed. \\ This is a condition in which, on the way to final torque, the bolt begins to stretch or twist from it's protruding center. \\ (but not threading any longer into the hole as Evo cylinder head bolts can do) ((hippysmack from the XLFORUM)) | ||
| * There are different methods to tapping / chasing holes depending on the situation. | * There are different methods to tapping / chasing holes depending on the situation. | ||
| Line 69: | Line 78: | ||
| * You can send a pin needle or the like down to the bottom of the hole to see if there is any embedded crap at the bottom. ((ReddTigger from the XLFORUM [[http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?postid=5373930#post5373930]])) | * You can send a pin needle or the like down to the bottom of the hole to see if there is any embedded crap at the bottom. ((ReddTigger from the XLFORUM [[http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?postid=5373930#post5373930]])) | ||
| + | | Chasing cam cover threads. ((photo by AnaChris of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1725973&highlight=oil+pump&page=11)) | | ||
| + | |{{:techtalk:ref:tools:chasing_threads_by_anachris.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| ===== Thread File ===== | ===== Thread File ===== | ||
| * This tool is a cross between a tap, a die and a file. | * This tool is a cross between a tap, a die and a file. | ||
| Line 92: | Line 103: | ||
| A jig (or guide) may come in a kit with the insert to help with that or they can be purchased or machined separately. \\ | A jig (or guide) may come in a kit with the insert to help with that or they can be purchased or machined separately. \\ | ||
| - | {{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_15_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1704056)) | + | {{techtalk:evo:engmech:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_15_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1704056)) |
| Line 102: | Line 113: | ||
| |This drill guide was machined for use on a cylinder stud hole reair ((photos by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1704056))|| | |This drill guide was machined for use on a cylinder stud hole reair ((photos by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1704056))|| | ||
| - | |{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_2_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_3_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}}| | + | |{{techtalk:evo:engmech:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_2_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:evo:engmech:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_3_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}}| |
| ===== Using a Stop Collar on a Drill Bit ===== | ===== Using a Stop Collar on a Drill Bit ===== | ||
| Line 115: | Line 126: | ||
| | Drill Bit Stop Collar ((photo by Graywolf of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1797431&page=2)) | | | Drill Bit Stop Collar ((photo by Graywolf of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1797431&page=2)) | | ||
| - | |{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:drill_bit_stop_collar_by_graywolf.jpg?direct&300|}}| | + | |{{techtalk:ref:tools:drill_bit_stop_collar_by_graywolf.jpg?direct&300|}}| |
| ===== Helicoil Inserts ===== | ===== Helicoil Inserts ===== | ||
| Line 134: | Line 145: | ||
| - | ==== Time-Sert repair on engine case using drill press ==== | ||
| - | Article by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1704056)) \\ | ||
| - | Click on a pic to enlarge: \\ | ||
| - | |||
| - | To repair a stripped cylinder stud. \\ | ||
| - | Below, only the first few threads in the stud hole are stripped. \\ | ||
| - | This agrees with the assumption that only the first couple of threads do most of the holding. \\ | ||
| - | |||
| - | {{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_1_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1704056)) \\ | ||
| - | |||
| - | There are many different options for fixing the stripped stud. This one was repaired using a Time-Sert kit. \\ | ||
| - | You can buy a drilling jig that will center the drill bit but it is expensive. \\ | ||
| - | You also build a jig using an old cylinder with the bottom cut off then use the top as a jig plate to precisely hold the drill. \\ | ||
| - | On the left is a drill guide (sleeve to keep the drill bit straight) and a drill bit held with a tap wrench. \\ | ||
| - | On the right, with the drill guide on the engine, drill bottomed out on the top of the case, the insert is longer than the amount protruding. \\ | ||
| - | The included bit with the kit wouldn't work using the guide. ((photo by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1704056)) \\ | ||
| - | |||
| - | |{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_2_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_3_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| - | |||
| - | So a holding jig for the engine was devised hold the slanted portion of the case in a level and upright position. \\ | ||
| - | Two 3/8"x16 holes were drilled and tapped to hold two long bolts to be just outside the front lower engine mounts. \\ | ||
| - | Then four holes were drilled around the outside perimeter to level the base plate with 3/4" long bolts. \\ | ||
| - | Some square tubing was cut down and threaded down a standard nut and large fender washers were added to support everything. \\ | ||
| - | This will allow you to adjust the bottom nut to raise or lower the case. \\ | ||
| - | An old piece of a trailer hitch was used to adjust the rear side of the engine to get the top portion zeroed out in all directions. \\ | ||
| - | |||
| - | **Homemade jig**: ((photo by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1704056)) \\ | ||
| - | |{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_4_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_5_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&200|}}|{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_6_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| - | |||
| - | With the cylinder in place on the case, a construction type level was placed on top to insure it was level before drilling. \\ | ||
| - | This requires 0° tilt in either direction (with the level turned in several directions to verify). \\ | ||
| - | |||
| - | The engine was covered with duct tape and aluminum foil to prevent anything from entering it. \\ | ||
| - | It was too tall to set under the drill press base so it was placed on a bike lift beside the drill press and re-aligned. \\ | ||
| - | The base was swung backwards to be able to bring the bike lift with the engine under the bit. \\ | ||
| - | And the drill press was positioned to meet up with the hole. \\ | ||
| - | |||
| - | **Positioning the engine**: \\ | ||
| - | |Getting it level. ((photo by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1704056))|Protecting the insides. ((photo by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1704056))|Positioning the drill press. ((photo by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1704056))| | ||
| - | |{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_7_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_8_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_9_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&250|}}| | ||
| - | |||
| - | A 19/64" drill bit (which just barely fit inside the existing hole) was used to ensure the drill press was aligned to the hole. \\ | ||
| - | With the bit in the press, you should be able to raise and lower the collet of the drill without this bit touching any sides. \\ | ||
| - | This press also has a fairly accurate laser guideline but trust the bit method more all the way to the bottom to ensure it's straight. \\ | ||
| - | |||
| - | The drill press was speed was set 990 RPM. \\ | ||
| - | Always use lubrication when drilling to keep down heat. \\ | ||
| - | Heat will actually expand the hole bigger than the drill bit. Short plunges are even better than pulling the bit down hard. \\ | ||
| - | Also, always use sharp drill bits. \\ | ||
| - | |||
| - | When drilling, especially aluminum, don't use the final hole size to start the hole. \\ | ||
| - | Instead, drill the hole in steps from smaller to bigger bits for each step. \\ | ||
| - | This hole bore was drilled in steps of 1/32" increments as an example of the importance of doing this. \\ | ||
| - | Since the existing hole was 19/64, the next bit size was 21/64", then 23/64" and finally the "X" bit provided | ||
| - | with the kit. \\ | ||
| - | The depth of the original hole was 1.3125". You don't want to drill past that and this hole was actually drilled to only 1.250". \\ | ||
| - | It only needs to be drilled as long as the insert and installer (with the drill bit chamfer taking into account). \\ | ||
| - | The Inserts are 1.000" and you need at least 1.125" for the installer to pass through. \\ | ||
| - | In addition to using the depth stop on the drill press, you can mark and tape off the bits to get a visual of the depth drilled. \\ | ||
| - | On the final bit, a drill stop was used to ensure the bit wouldn't go any further in than needed. \\ | ||
| - | (it has a set screw to hold it to the bit). \\ | ||
| - | Caution, if the press is pulled down too far or too hard, the drill stop collar can still move. \\ | ||
| - | |||
| - | |Testing the bit for straightness in the hole. ((photo by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1704056))|Using multiple drill bits. ((photo by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1704056))|Using a drill stop. ((photo by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1704056))| | ||
| - | |{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_10_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&250|}}|{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_11_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&150|}}|{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_12_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&250|}}| | ||
| - | |||
| - | Once the hole is drilled with the X Bit, then you use the counter bore bit, it has a built in stop so you can't go to far. \\ | ||
| - | Clean the hole out with brake cleaner and dry it with compressed air in preparation to tap the hole. \\ | ||
| - | |||
| - | Again use plenty of WD-40 or other and the included tap guide to ensure a straight start. \\ | ||
| - | If you don't already have one, you will need a tap handle. \\ | ||
| - | Once the hole is tapped, all chips need to be blown out with an air compressor. \\ | ||
| - | Then clean the hole brake cleaner and dry it with compressed air. \\ | ||
| - | |||
| - | |Time Sert kit as recieved. (also with instructions and \\ a couple extra inserts) ((photo by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1704056))|Hole drilled and cleaned. ((photo by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1704056))|Tap the hole using the guide. ((photo by ReddTigger of the XLFORUM ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1704056))| | ||
| - | |{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_13_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_14_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_15_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&200|}}| | ||
| - | |||
| - | Let it sit for about 15 min. and install the insert. \\ | ||
| - | |||
| - | |{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_16_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_17_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_18_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| - | |{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_19_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ref:genmsr:time-sert_cylinder_bolt_repair_20_by_reddtigger.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
