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These same codes are used for color choice of foreground and/or background (;;#ff0000;;#ffff00)

White     #FFFFFF
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Stainless steel or aluminum can be polished to a finish that is almost like chrome.
For fabricating your own brackets, mounting tabs, sissy bars, pegs, and other small items on the bike,
Stainless steel or aluminum (along with some polishing) looks just as good as sending it off and having it chromed, and much cheaper.
The stainless will last indefinitely while the chrome may chip or peel after some time if it is not a professional job.
If the stainless steel does get scratched up, just polish it again. ¹⁾

The good thing about aluminum is the more you polish it the more it shines.
And each time it's polished, it becomes a little more smooth. That means less places for oxidation to start.
If it's well polished the first time you shouldn't have to re-do it again other than a quick spray and wipe from then on. ²⁾

Polished metal has a unique depth to it.
When polishing cast parts, watch out for subsurface air pockets (also known as porosity in the casting).
If you have any weather checking / pitting rough abrasives may uncover the subsurface porosity. ³⁾

There are hundreds of alloys of both aluminum and stainless, but all of them will oxidize at the surface.
The oxide layer is what protects the metal from further corrosion.
All you have to do is remove the oxide and get it smooth. ⁴⁾

If the part is just oxidized and gray (but smooth), you can use a buffer to put a final polish on it.
But if it is pitted or scratched, it must be smoothed out first. ⁵⁾
Buffing won't remove scratches and pits and will only make them stand out.

Polishing can take several hours but the payoff is some beautiful parts afterwards.

If the piece has never been polished, then you should start with a course grade of abrasive and sand through the different stages progressing to a finer and finer grade as you go. ⁶⁾

Turn the piece and let each successive grade of abrasive cross the previous by 90°.

Mild spots can be wet sanded with Scotchbrite or 600 wet-dry sandpaper using dishwashing soap and water.
Sand for a while, then wipe it down and look closely.
If you can still see the pits or scratches through the dark or dull gray, then continue until they're gone. ⁷⁾

When you've got a uniform dull gray, you're ready to buff the part.
Don't worry too much about screw recesses and other hard to reach places, they don't show in the finished job if the edges are smooth. ⁸⁾

Scotchbrite pads can work faster than sandpaper.
They will contour to the workpiece, especially curves and round corners.

Start by wetting the pad with water and dish soap.
Go over a given part in one direction for the green pad, rinse thoroughly.
Then go over the part again at a 90° angle for the next finer grade pad. ⁹⁾
Repeat until you're satisfied with the finish.

• Below are three grades of Scotchbrite. These can be found online or some hardware stores.
  • Your typical green (found in most kitchens)
  • Red (very fine grade)
  • Gray (ultra fine grade)

Scotchbrite Grades 10)

Keep the wheel moving, periodically wipe of the wax smudge and look at the progress.
Spending too much time in one spot can discolor the area.
Different alloys require different compounds, speeds, and pressure.
It's OK to experiment. You won't hurt anything. ¹¹⁾

Cloth and felt wheels are used a lot. Sisal is aggressive, and felt doesn't conform to the odd shapes of some cycle parts.
Use hard wheels for emery and soft wheels for rouge.
You can differentiate between hard and soft wheels by looking at the rings of stitching.
Fewer rings are softer (polishing).
More rings means harder (cutting). ¹²⁾

See more on Polishing Compounds in the Tools section of the Sportsterpedia.

The final polish is achieved by buffing it with a rotating wheel which has been loaded with a buffing compound.
These compounds are very fine abrasives, usually combined with wax in a bar form.
Coarse to fine: ¹³⁾

• Emery (gray) - aggressive, usually used on steel.
• Tripoli (brown) - usually used on brass.
• White compound (white) - for fine polishing.
• Jeweler's Rouge (usually pink) - the finest, for a mirror finish.

Emery is good for a first cut on stainless or aluminum (to get what sanding didn't) followed by rouge.
You may be able to go directly from wet sanding to rouge. ¹⁴⁾

When are you done?

That's entirely up to what finish you are wanting to achieve.
Any answer can be the right one.
You can dull it down with coarse abrasives or shine it up with finer ones.

You can wax the parts when you got them polished like you want them to keep them shiny longer. ¹⁵⁾

You can also follow up with some NevrDull and some Mother's for the ultimate shine. ¹⁶⁾

Before.. 17)	After.. 18)